Hodinkee
Just Because: The Ironic Elegance Of Trench Watches
Not only did the Great War move timekeeping to the wrist – it also introduced a refined aesthetic built for battle.
Results for The Heuer Carrera (1963)
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Hodinkee
Revolution
Walking The Ultra-Thin Line: The Audemars Piguet RD#2
The Audemars Piguet RD#2, the brand’s record-breaking prototype, is now available in a production version as the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin.
SJX Watches
Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age
Thanks to Instagram, and social media in general, fine watchmaking has become something of a spectator sport. Roger W. Smith’s YouTube channel has over 10,000 subscribers, and though he produces only about a dozen watches per year, his video about polishing the flanks of pinions has been viewed more than 115,000 times. Akrivia, which produces watches on a similar scale, has almost 40,000 followers on Instagram and their videos, which focus on hand finishing techniques, get thousands of views and likes. These numbers suggest a huge appetite among watch enthusiasts for information about movement construction and finishing. Yet while collectors now have unprecedented access to this kind of information, finishing is a highly nuanced topic that doesn’t readily lend itself to the brevity of an Instagram comment. This can make it difficult, especially for new collectors, to understand how finishing fits into the overall value proposition offered by a fine watch. What is finishing and why it matters Finishing is the process by which the components of a watch movement are treated between fabrication and final assembly. At lower price points, finishing is done by machine. At higher price points, it is often applied by hand. The results of good hand finishing are unmistakable, often cited as the main reason for drastic price differences between watches. I asked Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi about the value of hand finishing, and he replied, “Let’s face facts – the differe...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Apple Watch Series 5 and the 3 upgrades that matter
It’s that time of year again. Apple has unveiled their latest and greatest Watch (as well as some pretty serious new iPhones), which has the unsurprising name of Apple Watch Series 5. And there’s always a lot to unpack with the world’s most popular watch (yeah, I went there). There are small but significant advances, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Apple Watch Series 5 and the 3 upgrades that matter appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Dom Pérignon 2008: From The Monk’s Earliest Beginnings To The Most Glorious Champagne Vintage
2008 is a truly brilliant champagne vintage that will age for many years, and the Dom Pérignon is one of the very best of them all, if not the star. And it is also perhaps the greatest young Dom Pérignon we have seen. Ken Gargett rates it 98/100 with potential to go even higher.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: The complete Casio G-Shock buying guide
I don’t know about you, but I find navigating Casio’s iconic and uber-tough G-Shock family a tricky process. It’s a reference number dominated space which, to the outsider, is every bit as confusing as the worlds of vintage Rolex or Patek. Adding to the complexity is the sheer profusion of models. Limited editions, collaborations and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The complete Casio G-Shock buying guide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Contemporary Elegance – The Breguet Classique 5177 with Grand Feu Blue Enamel Dial
With no fewer than 15 variants of the Classique 5177 in the Breguet catalogue, this is latest. The new Classique 5177 with grand feu blue enamel dial.
Time+Tide
A different kind of luxury sports watch – the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date
Editor’s note: The Marine is Breguet’s star of the show at the moment, with a profusion of new models in the house - including some chic titanium options - but we can’t help but have a soft spot for this elegant beast, the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date. What a looker … We’re willing to … ContinuedThe post A different kind of luxury sports watch – the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces the RM 57-03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon
Most of Richard Mille’s recent – and bestselling – watches have mainly been ultra-light and extremely technical in terms of materials and styling. The new RM 57-03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon is different. Instead it harks back to an earlier era of Richard Mille from not too long ago, when decorative techniques were employed to create unusually intricate watches like the Boucheron tourbillon. Originally unveiled in 2012, the RM 57-01 was initially launched as the “Jackie Chan” edition, designed in collaboration with the Hong Kong action star and bearing a miniature dragon sculpture on the movement. Subsequent iterations included the RM 57-02 where the dragon was replaced by a falcon, a motif popular in the Gulf. Available only in Asia, the RM 57-03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon is essentially a variant of the RM 57-01 the dragon executed in sapphire crystal and gold, the first time Richard Mille has created a sculpture in that material. The sapphire dragon is anchored to the movement ring with screws Produced by Olivier Vaucher, a micro-decoration specialist in Geneva that serves brands including Roger Dubuis, Van Cleef & Arpels and Zenith, the sapphire body of the dragon is first milled from a block of sapphire, and then laser engraved to create its detail. Then the engraving is finished and polished by hand. The sapphire pieces are then joined to solid red gold components that make up the dragon’s head, tail, limbs and spine. To highlight the dragon’s tongu...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Longines Conquest Classic – a watch for women that lives up to the name
For Longines, elegance is an attitude - and that’s something they’ve embodied very nicely indeed with the new Conquest Classic, a watch made with exceptional women (and exceptional wearability) in mind. The Longines Conquest Classic is offered in two case sizes - 29.5mm and 34mm - and in diamond or non-diamond options. The case is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Conquest Classic – a watch for women that lives up to the name appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
That time we celebrated the Omega Speedmaster in Houston, Texas
Editor’s note: We, along with the rest of the world, have been on a pretty heavy space-nostalgia trip of late. A trip that naturally led us back to Andrew’s 2015 trip with Omega, to the Space Centre in Houston, a place that was, in many ways, ground zero for the mythos that surrounds the Speedy. … ContinuedThe post That time we celebrated the Omega Speedmaster in Houston, Texas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
WATCHSPOTTING: NFL star Odell Beckham gives a masterclass on flexing wearing Richard Mille in his debut match with the Cleveland Browns
As a category, highly paid athletes are known for the occasional BIG flex. Bespoke cars, planes and all the rest are de rigueur for these guys. And, of course, the wristwatch, being both highly visible and highly valuable, is a great example of this. Now, wearing those factory diamonds on your downtime is one thing, … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: NFL star Odell Beckham gives a masterclass on flexing wearing Richard Mille in his debut match with the Cleveland Browns appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Looking back to the future with Rado’s Captain Cook Mark III
Editor’s note: You don’t need to be a naval captain (or even a cook) to appreciate the lovely case shape and bold details of the Rado Captain Cook Mk III. So funky, so so smooth. The other day we showed you the very heritage-inspired Captain Cook Mark II from Rado. Well, now it’s time for … ContinuedThe post Looking back to the future with Rado’s Captain Cook Mark III appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – Zak M and his IWC Ingenieur AMG edition
While collaborations between watch brands and car manufacturers are not a new phenomenon, it’s a much rarer phenomenon to meet a person who owns both the watch and its corresponding car. Once Zak had purchased his Mercedes AMG, he knew he needed to own the IWC Ingenieur AMG edition IW3725, a watch that is cool … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Zak M and his IWC Ingenieur AMG edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
David Beckham’s Tudors prove that old, messed up watches are the best
Editor’s note: A little while back, old mate Becks did some promo videos with his watch brand of choice – Tudor. Turns out that Mr Beckham isn’t one to baby his timepieces, something we fully endorse. Kick on, Becks. Tudor shared two short videos with their premier ambassador, Mr David Beckham, that looked at two … ContinuedThe post David Beckham’s Tudors prove that old, messed up watches are the best appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Bulgari is well placed to clean up at the GPHG, thanks to these 5 watches
There’s no doubt that Bulgari like the GPHG. In 2017 they won the men’s category for their Octo Finissimo Automatic and the Tourbillon prize for the Finissimo Skeleton. A few years earlier, in 2014, they took home the Jewellery prize for their Diva High Jewellery Emeralds. Their odds are looking strong for the 2019 edition of … ContinuedThe post Bulgari is well placed to clean up at the GPHG, thanks to these 5 watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Just Because: The Stopwatch From 60 Minutes, A Cultural Treasure
The stopwatch that's kept America's most-watched news program on time.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A 1970 Rolex Turn-O-Graph Ref. 1625, A Heuer Chess Champion, And An IWC Cal. 83
The watches for sale on the web that you need to know about.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith
Reintroducing their debut 17.01 model, the Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith boast major construction improvements over their predecessors, as well as making some subtle design tweaks. With two new models, let’s first take a look at the 17.06 Copper. Offering warm earthy tones set within a polished stainless steel case, the 17.06 Copper is easily … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Slender and springy – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003
Editor’s note: There’s something in the air at Grand Seiko. The brand is busting out new designs left, right and centre. It’s an exciting time to be a fan of Japan’s premier watchmaker. Case in point, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003 … Grand Seiko has just announced its latest releases at Basel 2019 … ContinuedThe post Slender and springy – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”
With one watch unveiled each month since the start of the year, the A. Lange & Söhne “25th Anniversary” series is coming to a completion. The ninth watch has just been announced – the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase. Of the 10 piece anniversary set, this is arguably the most esoteric and least known Lange 1, being an elegantly conceived complication inside a case that was originally devised as a smaller men’s watch, but is now a ladies’ watch. Measuring a compact 36.8mm in width, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was first unveiled in 2009 – seven years after the launch of the full-size, 38.5mm Lange 1 Moon Phase. Subsequently in 2017, it evolved to incorporate a new caliber based on the second-generation Lange 1 movement. Though the original Little Lange 1 was introduced as a watch for men in the late 1990s, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was a ladies’ watch from the get-go and decorated as such, with mother-of-pearl dials, diamond bezels and most recently a guilloche dial. But with the subdued anniversary colours of blue and silver, the latest Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is the first instance where it could be for men wanting a smaller watch. The dial of the watch is solid silver, with blued steel hands and printed blue markings. As with the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “25thAnniversary” unveiled earlier in the year, the white-gold lunar disc in the seconds sub-dial is hand-engraved with stars that vary in size and shape, creating a detailed depiction of the ni...
Revolution
Introducing the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”
The Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is the ninth watch to join A. Lange & Söhne’s 25th anniversary editions for the Lange 1.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in steel
Over the years I’ve seen a lot of new chronographs. Some are impressive, and many are ordinary. But few are as hands-down gorgeous as the Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache that I first saw at Watches and Wonders in 2015. With its classical proportions and comely, cow-horn-shaped lugs it was a love-at-first sight affair. However, the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Through the Looking Glass: Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X is a stunner several years in the works, the fruition of broad modernisation across the company in terms of technology and design.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the auction business looks like in the Instagram age
The other day, Phillips announced Phillips PERPETUAL, an always-on showroom of curated horological goodness. Because while blockbuster sales of celebrity pieces have a place, the opportunity for mass volume sales and Phillips, along with the other major auction players is jumping at it. For an in-depth look at the ever-changing business of selling very fine … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the auction business looks like in the Instagram age appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Bell & Ross BR 05: The Fifth Element
Bell & Ross’s latest design reminds us why the two gentlemen have made such waves over the nearly three decades they have been around in watchmaking.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The perfect gentleman – Tissot’s Gentleman Automatic
In the field of watch design there’s a lot to be said for restraint. Not every dial needs to be flashy, nor every case overwrought. Sometimes, all you need - all you want even - is a watch that looks good (no matter what), and can do anything, or at least anything most normal people … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The perfect gentleman – Tissot’s Gentleman Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Bell & Ross BR05
For any brand creating a new collection, the challenge lies in the tension between aesthetic innovation and consistent design language. With the new Bell & Ross BR05, the brand has successfully maintained their core visual identity with a circular dial and squared-off case, exposed screws at the corners of the case, and bold Arabic numerals. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bell & Ross BR05 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Happenings: Robert C. Cheney To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The executive director of the Willard House and Clock Museum will discuss clock making in 18th century America.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Cornes de Vache Chronograph in Steel
Originally available in platinum and then rose gold, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is a well regarded vintage remake, being well executed and faithful to the original. It’s modelled on the ref. 6087 of the 1950s, which was characterised by pointy, horn-shaped lugs, hence the model name; cornes de vache translates as cow horns. Now it is available in stainless steel, making the Cornes de Vache the second Historiques model to be offered in the metal, after the Historiques 1942 and 1948 triple calendars. The steel case naturally makes it far more accessible, with a retail price that’s a third less than the same in platinum. Material aside, the specs of the new model are identical to the earlier precious metal versions. The case is 38.5mm in diameter, and contains the cal. 1142 movement. Now made in-house by Vacheron Constantin, the cal. 1142 is derived from the Lemania 2310. Vacheron Constantin has upgraded the movement in several ways, most notably with a free-sprung balance wheel. The dial is a pale grey with a fine “velvet” finish and red accents on the elapsed seconds track. All of the applied hour markers are 18k white gold, as are the hands. Notably, this is not the first Cornes de Vache in steel. In 2017 Vacheron Constantin produced a small run of 36 watches – with a steel case and dark grey dial – for American watch blog Hodinkee. Key facts and price Diameter: 38.5mm Height: 10.9mm Material: Stainless steel Water resist...