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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

NOT ON MY WATCH: The one “truly strange and unnerving” detail that ruins the Cartier Tank for this writer Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Apr 12, 2020

NOT ON MY WATCH: The one “truly strange and unnerving” detail that ruins the Cartier Tank for this writer

Remember the moral of The Emperor’s New Clothes? When something is universally praised, you become unwilling to speak out, even if something is gravely wrong on a fundamental level. That’s how I feel about the Cartier Tank. I know this is wildly sacrilegious. The Cartier Tank is, after all, one of the most iconic watches … ContinuedThe post NOT ON MY WATCH: The one “truly strange and unnerving” detail that ruins the Cartier Tank for this writer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is big and brawny, but make no mistake, it has brains too Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGA001 Apr 10, 2020

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is big and brawny, but make no mistake, it has brains too

There’s no doubt about it. The latest 47mm professional dive watch from Grand Seiko makes a dramatic first impression, but that shouldn’t overshadow just how remarkable the technical achievements are inside that large and in charge case. The Grand Seiko SLGA001 certainly isn’t for the faint of wrist, measuring in at 46.9mm in diameter and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is big and brawny, but make no mistake, it has brains too appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The bar for car and watchmaker collabs is now very high, and Zenith’s Defy El Primero 21 Land Rover smashes it Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux lacked imagination would be Apr 9, 2020

The bar for car and watchmaker collabs is now very high, and Zenith’s Defy El Primero 21 Land Rover smashes it

Let’s not mince words. Watch and carmakers have been jointly responsible for some very, very lazy collaborative timepieces. I won’t pick on too many examples … but to say that some of Ferrari’s early efforts with Panerai and Girard-Perregaux lacked imagination would be a gross understatement. The Prancing Horse turned it around though – Maranello’s latest … ContinuedThe post The bar for car and watchmaker collabs is now very high, and Zenith’s Defy El Primero 21 Land Rover smashes it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

G-Shock Introduces the Street Utility Collection SJX Watches
Casio describes them as clad Apr 9, 2020

G-Shock Introduces the Street Utility Collection

Though Casio describes them as clad in “the colours of streetwear”, the new G-Shock Street Utility collection feels very much like a military-inspired line-up, varying from olive green to desert camouflage. The collection includes both of G-Shock’s bestselling models, starting with the classic DW-5600 that has the same form as the first-ever G-Shock, the DW-5000 of 1983 (which was revived in solid 18k gold as the Dream Project). The G-Shock Street Utility DW-5610SU retains the signature oblong case and bezel, but is now constructed of two parts, instead of being one-piece as on the original. As a result, the Street Utility DW-5610 has a two-tone case the bezel in black resin while the case band is in another colour. It’s available in three styles, including a khaki version with a desert camouflage face as well as an additional fabric strap; the other two are sold only with the standard resin band. Street Utility DW-5610SU And the other variant of the collection is the G-Shock Street Utility GA-2100 series, based the popular Royal Oak-esque watch launched last year. The thinnest G-Shock to date, the GA-2100 has a case made of a carbon-fibre composite that’s now also offered in a two-colour finish. The olive green and yellow models have two-layer cases fitted with black bezels, but the black version is one piece, with the jungle camouflage motif printed on the bezel. Street Utility GA-2100 Key facts and price G-Shock Street Utility DW-5600 series Ref. DW-5610SU-...

Jaquet Droz Introduces the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Plasma Ceramic SJX Watches
Blancpain it Apr 7, 2020

Jaquet Droz Introduces the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Plasma Ceramic

A contemporary take on the brand’s iconic watch – itself based on a 18th century pocket watch – the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Plasma Ceramic is a sleek and modern open-worked wristwatch, now in a new, high-tech case material. Originally available in ordinary ceramic, the watch has now been given a case of “plasma ceramic”, an unusual material that’s best described as a ceramic that resembles metal. The material begins are white ceramic that’s treated with a plasma gas, essentially ionised gas created at 20,000°C. The process of plasma carburising transforms the surface layer of the white ceramic into a metal oxide, giving the ceramic a grey, metallic finish while retaining all of the desirable properties of ceramic including hardness, low density and scratch resistance. Though plasma ceramic has been a hallmark of the Swatch Group and its many brands, including Rado, Omega and Blancpain, it is being used for the first time by Jaquet Droz. The case measures 41.5 mm across and 12.48 mm high, making it a tad larger than its gold counterparts, which is typically the case for ceramic cases due to the necessities of construction in an ultra-hard, but potentially brittle, material. Unusually for ceramic that is typically mirror-polished all round, the case is finished with contrasting surfaces – the bezel and top surfaces of the lugs are brushed while the case band has a polished finish. A clear sapphire disc forms the Grande Seconde dial, wit...

Glashütte Original Introduces the Sixties and Sixties Chronograph “Glacier Blue” SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces Apr 7, 2020

Glashütte Original Introduces the Sixties and Sixties Chronograph “Glacier Blue”

A yearly tradition starting two years ago, the Sixties annual edition is a limited-production run of Glashütte Original’s well-liked, retro Sixties. In contrast to the sedate, Teutonic colours of the regular models, the Sixties annual editions are characterised by dials in bold colours and elaborate patterns, all produced the traditional way at its sister company located just several hours away. The annual edition began in 2015 as an experimental collection of watches with dials in over-the-top colours, before becoming an annual edition, first with a green dial patterned after water droplets, followed by an orange version of the same motif last year. Now Glashütte Original has gone in the opposite direction with the Sixties and Sixties Chronograph featuring pale-blue, dégradé dials finished with a simple, radial brushing. Decidedly more restrained than the earlier editions, the new “glacier blue” dials are still nuanced and striking. Subtle blue As with all of the dials found on the Sixties annual editions, the new “glacier blue” dials are produced by the what was once the Th. Muller dial factory in Pforzheim, historically the heart of the German jewellery and clockmaking industry, and now owned by Glashütte Original’s parent company, Swatch Group. The blue dials are finished in a dégradé, or graduated, colour that darkens towards the edges – an effect that requires multiple steps to achieve. It starts with a dial blank made of German silver that is...

The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph is like a remastered classic on vinyl, played on crystal clear modern speakers and turned up to 11 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph Apr 6, 2020

The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph is like a remastered classic on vinyl, played on crystal clear modern speakers and turned up to 11

In what we hope will be the first of many watches to be unveiled in these dark times, Audemars Piguet has recently released their latest model. Called the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph, this new piece is actually a reinterpretation of one of the Le Brassus firm’s early 20th-century watches. In no way is this … ContinuedThe post The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph is like a remastered classic on vinyl, played on crystal clear modern speakers and turned up to 11 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie started a joke that started the whole world wanting, now it’s ready for your wrist, for real Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie started Apr 5, 2020

H. Moser & Cie started a joke that started the whole world wanting, now it’s ready for your wrist, for real

Anyone remember H. Moser & Cie.’s “April Fools” prank from last year? We just revisited it on our Instagram stories. If you missed it, allow me to explain. The @moserwatches Insta post from April 1, 2019, displayed what looked like a brand new model of the Swiss watchmaker’s popular Venturer range. But it was immediately … ContinuedThe post H. Moser & Cie started a joke that started the whole world wanting, now it’s ready for your wrist, for real appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Who wore it better: Batman or Batgirl? The cases for and against Gotham’s power couple Time+Tide
Rolex s steely professional model Apr 4, 2020

Who wore it better: Batman or Batgirl? The cases for and against Gotham’s power couple

Few acronyms in the watch world are as recognisable, or as likely to trigger emotions than the BLNR. Rolex’s steely professional model GMT-Master II Ref.116710BLNR and subsequent Ref.126710BLNR have been unendingly popular ever since the former was unveiled way back in 2013 at Baselworld. What might have seemed like a hype watch has well and truly … ContinuedThe post Who wore it better: Batman or Batgirl? The cases for and against Gotham’s power couple appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“If you don’t have a Rolex by the time you reach 50, then you have clearly failed in your life.” Remembering Sarkozy, the ‘Bling-Bling’ president Time+Tide
Rolex Apr 3, 2020

“If you don’t have a Rolex by the time you reach 50, then you have clearly failed in your life.” Remembering Sarkozy, the ‘Bling-Bling’ president

In the lead-up to the 2012 presidential election, France’s leader Nicolas Sarkozy, was preparing to deliver a campaign speech in Paris. Striding through the heaving crowd in Place de la Concorde, Sarkozy grinned and shook the hands of his cheering supporters. But halfway along, a realisation flashed through his mind. Without stopping, he whipped off … ContinuedThe post “If you don’t have a Rolex by the time you reach 50, then you have clearly failed in your life.” Remembering Sarkozy, the ‘Bling-Bling’ president appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Exploring the Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m Stainless Steel, which is in pole position for best steel sports watch of 2020 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Apr 2, 2020

VIDEO: Exploring the Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m Stainless Steel, which is in pole position for best steel sports watch of 2020

With the possibility that yet more brands will not release watches this year, following suit with Patek Philippe, the field for the best new watches has narrowed dramatically. And in the steel sports watch category, there now stands one towering contender for the best of 2020. And that is a watch released before this year … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m Stainless Steel, which is in pole position for best steel sports watch of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Vantablack Black Hands SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Apr 2, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Vantablack Black Hands

On April Fools’ Day last year, H. Moser & Cie. published a doctored image of a watch with an all-black dial missing hands, a riff on its watches with blacker-than-black dials. The hoax watch turned into something of a hit, which has led to the latest trio of limited editions, the Vantablack Black Hands – which will also be available online directly from the brand. All three watches – ranging from a stainless-steel base model to a limited-edition tourbillon – feature dials coated in Vantablack, a high-tech coating that absorbs almost all incident light – making it extremely and almost absolutely black – matched with black-coated hands. Because the coating on the hands is more of a dark grey, and also glossy, the hands do actually stand apart from the dial, appearing to be suspended in nothing because the dial is so black. The Endeavour Tourbillon with the reflection being on the crystal, rather than the dial Venturer Vantablack Black Hands XL in steel Invented by a spin-off from the University of Surrey in the United Kingdom, Vantablack is made up of carbon nanotubes arranged vertically, like a surface covered in really fine fur. The carbon nanotubes absorb 99.965% of incident light, resulting in a surface that resembles a deep, dark hole, which is an quirky and strangely appealing finish for a watch dial. Even though other substances are even blacker than Vantablack – with the record held by an MIT invention from 2019 –  Vantablack is the best-known...

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: A gifting fail gave Alex his TAG Heuer and, a little down the track, a wife  Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Mar 31, 2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: A gifting fail gave Alex his TAG Heuer and, a little down the track, a wife 

I expect we’ve all been there. A special occasion rolls around - Valentine’s Day, Christmas - and you buy your partner a gift. He or she does the same for you. And, shock horror. They ain’t equitable. They ain’t even close. This sets the scene for episode two of the second series of Every Watch Tells A … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: A gifting fail gave Alex his TAG Heuer and, a little down the track, a wife  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.