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Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)

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Outstanding Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Nov 16, 2023

Outstanding Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ upcoming auction in Hong Kong begins on November 24 and as is now convention, the sale includes a diverse selection of independent watchmaking.  Among the highlights in the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII is the F.P. Journe Coffret 38 – the collection of five watches with 38 mm steel cases made to mark the discontinuation of the brand’s historic case size. Each model in the set is significant in François-Paul Journe’s horological ascent, from the groundbreaking Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite to the meticulously no-frills Chronomètre Optimum, and here each watch is (relatively) accessible and sold as an individual lot. The auction features creations from other notable watchmakers in every price range, including Daniel Roth, Habring², Voutilainen, and a Harry Winston developed by Greubel Forsey. These watches invite exploration into the history and future of watchmaking, and some tell stories of craftsmanship and innovation that captivate.  The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII is scheduled for November 24 and 25. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain I in the sale is the second to be sold publicly in as many auction seasons Lots 815-819: F.P. Journe Coffret 38 set of steel watches In 1991, François-Paul Journe introduced his first wristwatch that had a platinum case 38 mm in diameter – large enough to be unheard of at the time. In comparison, the Patek Philippe ref. 5004 split-...

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TWO FUTURE G-SHOCK ICONS: THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY FULL CARBON 5000 Worn & Wound
Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe’s vision Nov 15, 2023

TWO FUTURE G-SHOCK ICONS: THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY FULL CARBON 5000

Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly that. It’s incredible considering that 40 years have gone by since Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe’s vision became a reality. Story has it that Ibe began to conceptualize what a truly shock-resistant watch could be when his own mechanical watch fell and shattered on the ground after a collision with a fellow pedestrian. In the early 1980s, a specialized team at Casio, nicknamed “Team Tough”, began to test and develop prototypes. During this time, Ibe famously found inspiration from a rubber ball on a playground. Eventually engineers incorporated this rubber core idea into the very first G-Shock, model DW-5000C, in 1983. Four decades of innovation and iteration later, Casio is proud to present the culmination of the latest and greatest in technology, material science, and coloration: The 40th Anniversary Full Carbon 5000 Limited Edition. Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly...

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Norqain Introduces the First Wild ONE Featuring Solid Gold, Plus a New Blacked Out Version Worn & Wound
Norqain Introduces Nov 15, 2023

Norqain Introduces the First Wild ONE Featuring Solid Gold, Plus a New Blacked Out Version

We’re a little more than a year into the life of the Wild ONE, Norqain’s ambitious sports watch featuring their proprietary Norteq material. In a catalog of watches that are mostly inspired by classic, vintage watch design cues, the Wild ONE stands out as being unapologetically modern, both in terms of its aesthetics and the raw materials. This watch is part of an ongoing turn within the industry to alternative materials based in carbon fibers, plastics, and uncommon metals and alloys. According to Norqain, the combination of Norteq and rubber used in the case allows for a watch that can be rated to an unreal 5,000g shock test, which would likely create an impact that the wearer would have a hard time walking away from. Norqain has been framing the Wild ONE all along as a pure sports watch, but with these latest variants, I continue to wonder if it’s really more of an incredibly impact resistant design object.  To be clear, I like this watch as a design object. I’m not taking it mountain biking, rock climbing, skiing, or anything else that the Norqain team thinks I might want to do with it. But I do like the way it looks and the way it’s made, and I think the latest releases seen here expand on the design language in a fun way. First up is the first Wild ONE to make use of solid gold, the aptly named Wild ONE Gold. The top section of the case is crafted from polished 18-carat red gold, with the base section made of black Norteq. The middle features the Wild ONE...

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A new Kurono Chronograph Shows How the Brand Develops New Refinements with Each Release Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo could nearly break Nov 14, 2023

A new Kurono Chronograph Shows How the Brand Develops New Refinements with Each Release

There was a time not too long ago when news of a new watch from Kurono Tokyo could nearly break the internet. OK, that’s an exaggeration, but as the brand was building up a head of steam, it felt like loads of hype accompanied every new announcement. This was the peak of pandemic era watch speculation, and Kurono was in the middle of it. Over time, the frenzy has cooled and Kurono announcements are no longer the object of such intense scrutiny. I get the sense that Hajime Asaoka and his team are just fine with that – this is a brand that has instituted layers of “anti flipping” safeguards to their ordering process, after all. But a curious thing is happening: as the hysteria for Kurono’s limited editions has waned, the watches themselves seem to be getting better. Not just in terms of their aesthetics (that’s a matter of opinion, of course) but in the way they’re made and their ergonomics. It would be incredibly easy for Kurono to just keep cranking out new colorways, but every new release is indicative of subtle refinements to the brand’s approach, applying new techniques with every watch.  Their latest, the Chronograph 3 “Hisui”, is a great example of the way the brand has made little changes and continues to experiment while still hewing close to what has become a distinct house style. Kurono’s chronographs have evolved into colorful “sector” designs over the years, and this example has what I think is a very appealing mint green colorway that...

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The Latest Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Taps into Japanese Skateboarding Culture Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Nov 14, 2023

The Latest Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Taps into Japanese Skateboarding Culture

For those of you who only know the Tony Hawks of the world when it comes to skateboarding celebrities, might I introduce you to Yuto Horigome.  Born in Tokyo on January 7, 1999, Yuto began skateboarding at six, influenced by his father. Rising through the ranks of Japanese competitions as a teenager, he moved to the U.S. after high school and quickly excelled in Street League Skateboarding, winning three 2018 stops within a year of his debut. Horigome achieved numerous milestones, including being the first Japanese skateboarder to win the X Games in 2019 and securing the World Championship in 2021, and in 2023, he became the first Japanese skateboarder to triumph at the historic Tampa Pro contest in the United States. With a resume like this, it’s no wonder that Seiko has released their latest Seiko 5 Sport in collaboration with the skateboarding wunderkind. This automatic GMT is the perfect balance of Seiko’s trademark style with a nod to the Tokyo that Horigome-san knows and loves.  For starters, the 42.5mm stainless steel case and bracelet are coated in black which works nicely as the backdrop for the blue and purple bezel, inspired by Tokyo sunsets. The exhibition back’s Hardlex crystal is decorated with Yuto’s signature for an added personalized touch. Underneath the crystal, one can see the 4R34 caliber at work. This is a limited edition model with a limited production run of just 2,700 pieces. Each unit will be serialized, and the retail price is $520. Ava...

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Leica Shifts Focus with the ZM 11 SJX Watches
IWC Ingenieur Nov 14, 2023

Leica Shifts Focus with the ZM 11

Having introduced the ZM 1 and ZM 2 wristwatches in 2018, Leica now launches its first sports watch with ZM 11. Deviating entirely from the camera-inspired aesthetics of the earlier models, the ZM 11 is a straightforward three-hander in a minimalist style with an integrated bracelet (or strap). But like its predecessors, the ZM 11 is equipped with a movement made by a specialist, in this case Chronode. Initial thoughts On its face, the ZM 11 comes across as uninspiring at first, appearing similar to many current luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets. But on closer inspection it reveals interesting details, including a nicely finished case and bracelet with facetted, brushed surfaces. Also notable is the quick-release mechanism for the bracelet that’s activated by a red button, a reference to Leica cameras. The red button aside, however, the design doesn’t capture the essence of a Leica camera as the earlier ZM 1 and ZM 2 did. The earlier pair incorporated camera-inspired details into functional elements, like a patented “push-piece” crown that mimics the push of a shutter-release button. While the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are arguably Leica watches, the ZM 11 feels more like a Leica-branded watch. Priced around US$7,000 for the base model, the ZM 11 is competitively priced as far as integrated-bracelet sports watches go. The IWC Ingenieur, for instance, is about 40% pricier. However, such sports watches are generally priced at a premium relatively to everything else...

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IWC Introduces New Racing Inspired Performance Chronographs in their Pilot Collection Worn & Wound
IWC Introduces New Racing Inspired Nov 13, 2023

IWC Introduces New Racing Inspired Performance Chronographs in their Pilot Collection

When we think of IWC chronographs, their series of Pilot’s Watch Chronographs are probably what comes immediately to our minds. There is an absolutely dizzying selection of chronographs across the Pilot collection, and the references go back years. Today, IWC unveils what they are referring to as “Performance Chronographs” that are technically (and somewhat weirdly, I have to say) still part of the Pilot lineup, but have a more motorsport forward focus. The new chronos seen here follow watches released in the past as part of their partnership with the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team, but have some aesthetic and design tweaks that make them feel a bit more road ready. While the AMG Petronas Pilot’s Watch Chronograph was basically a new colorway in a titanium case, the Performance Chronographs see additional updates to the dial that distinguish it from other watches in IWC’s Pilot space, which begs the question: why call these “Pilot” watches at all?  What we have here are two new references, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 AMG, and the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team. Both are built on IWC’s popular 41mm Pilot’s Watch Chronograph case, with the former in titanium, and the latter the brand’s proprietary Ceratanium alloy. On the surface, the broad strokes here are familiar, but when you get into the granular details, some new features emerge. Most notably, these dials have a glossy fi...

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Hands On: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II Diamant SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 13, 2023

Hands On: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II Diamant

Much lauded at its launch last year, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) was originally available only in two guises of rose gold or platinum, each with a matching enamel now. Now Rexhep Rexhepi has quietly debuted a small run of the RRCC II in the same metals with gemstone hour markers to match. The platinum version features a black enamel dial with baguette-cut diamond indices that give it a stark, formal beauty. And the rose gold model has a cream enamel dial with ruby markers. Initial thoughts Discreetly glamorous gentlemen’s watches with diamond hour markers are a well established tradition in watchmaking, particularly so during the mid-20th century at high-end brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The new RRCC II is clearly a reference to such historical watches. Despite being a modern watch, and clearly recognisable as such, the diamond-set RRCC II manages to capture the subtle, elegant nature of its historical inspiration thanks to its compact case with graceful lugs inspired by vintage Patek Philippe models, including this ref. 2551. A possibly unique Patek Philippe ref. 2551 dating from 1957 with a white gold case and diamond indices that sold for almost CHF360,000 at Phillips in 2022 Interestingly, even though the RRCC II was not originally conceived as a gem-set watch, the dial accommodates the diamond hour markers perfectly. The glossy surface of the enamel dial complements the diamonds’ sparkle, while the alternating track ...

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A Week In Watches, Ep. 67: G-Shock Turns 40, Ming Goes Gold, & Oris Gets Funky Worn & Wound
Citizen Nov 12, 2023

A Week In Watches, Ep. 67: G-Shock Turns 40, Ming Goes Gold, & Oris Gets Funky

In this episode of A Week In Watches we take a closer look at the some exciting news from Oris, Ming, G-Shock, and more. You may have heard that this year marks the 40th anniversary of G-Shock, something they’ve been celebrating throughout 2023. This week, we got a pair of new watches from the brand as part of the celebration, and they are some of the coolest square cased G-Shocks we’ve ever seen. These watches get ultra-light carbon cases and include a pretty wild colorway that is one of our favorite uses of the color purple in recent memory. Cheers to you, G-Shock, and may we say many happy returns. Elswhere, Ming dabbles in rose gold with a new 37.04 Monopusher Chronograph, that even gets a solid gold dial with a deep guilloché pattern, and it really works. Also opting for warm tones heading into fall we find Oris and Collective Horology with a new Divers Seventy-Five, which embraces a funky set of orange and brown colors across its dial, along with the retro-Arabic numerals. If that’s not quite your think we’ve got something very green from Zenith in a new Chronomaster Sport done with Aaron Rodgers. Big thanks to the sponsor of this week’s episode: Citizen and their new Citizen Promaster Skyhawk watches – with unparalleled functionality and utility. The new release continues Citizen’s focus on style, versatility, and performance for the pilot or aviation enthusiast in their Promaster Air Collection. Discover the new Promaster Skyhawk Collection, for adve...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – JT Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Reduced “Marui” 3510.20 Nov 10, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – JT

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader JT takes us through watches from his own personal collection, purchased largely on the pre-owned market for under $5,000. This real-life 3 for 5k is also thematically coherent, to say the least, with a trio of white dialed sports watches that cover a lot of ground, and somehow work well together as a thoughtful, wearable collection that features an indie favorite, a hot collaboration, and an uncommon example of a classic chronograph.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Omega Speedmaster Reduced “Marui” (3510.20) – $3,000 This was the watch that started it all. I have a small wrist (6.25″), and I love white objects (Kenya Hara’s book, “White,” resides next to my white camera collection). I fell in love with the Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project, and after lots of research and patience, I decided I wanted a Speedmaster Reduced, and subsequently secured this Speedmaster for a very reasonable price. Image courtesy Bob’s Watches It didn’t come with a bracelet, but it actually worked in my favor because I wanted to pair it with a flat link (AKA Ed White) bracelet anyway, so it helped me bring the cost of the watch lower (an OEM 1469/811 is worth at least $500). Seiko x Rowing Blazers 5 Sports – $500 After spending way too much time doing my research, “buying the seller,” and reading forums to check my work, the inte...

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Patek Philippe Pays Tribute to Philippe Stern with the Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Pays Tribute Nov 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Pays Tribute to Philippe Stern with the Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P

To celebrate Philippe Stern’s 85th birthday, Patek Philippe has released the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P-001. The 30-piece limited edition is a minute repeater with a novel alarm function that chimes the programmed time, powered by a new calibre that will never be repeated. The watch is also a tribute in a literal sense: the fired enamel dial bears a monochromatic portrait of Philippe Stern, now the honorary president of Patek Philippe and the man who laid the foundations of the Geneva watchmaker’s present-day success. Initial thoughts This watch was long anticipated since it was first teased for Only Watch 2023, where it was announced as a unique piece made for the charity auction followed by a limited edition release. Now we have the specifics of the watch and it is impressive in technique, even if the dial is surprising at first sight. Evocative of the iconic black-and-white portrait of Francis Ford-Coppola’s 1972 film The Godfather, portrait of Mr Stern initially feels out of place in such a classical watch. But then it is perhaps not as apparent on a wrist when reading the time, and more importantly, considering Mr Stern’s achievements he deserves an overwhelmingly prominent place on a watch. It is a certainty that the buyers of the 30 watches will be clients personally acquainted with Mr Stern – word has it that all were allocated by Geneva prior to launch – and I imagine all of them would be happy to concede part of the dial to him. With four new pa...

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YEMA Launches a Kickstarter to Support a Manufacture Caliber in New Superman Bronze References Worn & Wound
Yema Nov 10, 2023

YEMA Launches a Kickstarter to Support a Manufacture Caliber in New Superman Bronze References

Watch brand YEMA has long been synonymous with French elegance and their latest model, the Superman Bronze CMM.10 is no exception. Utilizing crowd-funding through Kickstarter, YEMA has produced a limited edition watch that is as architectural in design as it is reliable when it comes to performance. Available in two sizes (39 and 41mm) and two dial color options (gradient blue and lacquered black), potential customers have the choice of a watch that best suits their individual preferences. Both dials are a striking contrast to the bronze, adding a balance of warm and cool tones that pair well with the rugged design of the Superman model. The watch itself has undergone a few changes from the original Superman models, most notable in the subtle upgrades to the dial, including the iconic “shovel” second hand has been replaced with a lollipop sweep hand, creating a more harmonious overall design. The timepiece now proudly exhibits French engravings and features the new “MANUFACTURE FRANÇAISE” signature thoughtfully placed at the 6 o’clock position. This change reflects YEMA’s updated brand positioning, resulting from their decision to internalize the manufacturing of components for the CMM.10 caliber. Speaking of the CMM.10 caliber, this movement promises 70-hours of power reserve and is rated to -3/+5 seconds per day is made from non-magnetic alloys to keep it from being impacted by magnetic forces during daily use. YEMA says that they worked in collaboration wit...

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Editorial: Winners at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 10, 2023

Editorial: Winners at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) announced its 2023 winners last night in a ceremony in its traditional venue, the theatre in the Fairmont hotel. Compared to 2022, most of the jury members for the year were new faces, including Anish Bhatt of Watchanish and Ben Clymer of Hodinkee. Presided over by author Nick Foulkes, the jury assembled a list of winners that included several surprises. Some watches rightly triumphed in competitive categories, but in others the prizes felt like they were awarded for lack of alternatives. In nearly all categories, however, the winners had merit, with the only exception being the Van Cleef & Arpels Éveil du Cyclamen Automaton that did not win the Mechanical Clock category. The biggest winner of the evening was expected and deserving, going to Audemars Piguet for the Code 11.59 Universelle grand complication. While not the prettiest watch, the Universelle is certainly the most technically impressive watch of the year and deserves the Aiguille d’Or, or “Golden Hand”, the top prize of the event, which was claimed by the brand’s outgoing chief executive, Francois-Henry Bennahmias (pictured above). Not only is the Universelle exceptionally complicated, it approaches several complications in an ingenious manner. Other widely foreseen winners were Petermann Bédat with its 2941 split-seconds in the Chronograph category. Despite my criticism of some aspects of the movement construction, the rattrapante chronograph is undoubte...

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[VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer Worn & Wound
Nov 9, 2023

[VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer

Vortic Watch Company has been a mainstay of the Windup Watch Fair since its earliest days. We had the opportunity to catch up with the CEO of Vortic, R.T. Custer, at the fair. He gives us something we’ve been craving-a truly in-depth explainer of their why and their how-with some amazing examples along the way. Vortic is a unique organization, hell-bent on bringing watchmaking back to the United States, but with a modern and innovative twist. If you’ve ever wondered what Vortic is all about, you now have the definitive info at your fingertips. This video breakdown their process step-by-step and provides before and after glimpse of how they “preserve American history one watch at a time.” If you want to learn even more about the Vortic Watch Company after watching this explainer or would like to start the process of ordering your own custom pocket watch conversion, please visit vorticwatches.com. The post [VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Nomos Issues the Classic Tangente in a Limited Gold Version Worn & Wound
Nomos Issues Nov 9, 2023

Nomos Issues the Classic Tangente in a Limited Gold Version

In their ongoing “175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte” series, Nomos has finally unveiled a watch that we’re frankly surprised has never existed before, but makes perfect sense right now. The Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik is a precious metal limited edition version of what is indisputably the brand’s most iconic design. In any kind of celebratory context, you’d expect the Tangente to play a lead role, and now, after limited versions of the Orion and Ludwig, the Tangente gets its own luxurious turn.  The 175 Years campaign has actually been ongoing since 2020, when a trio of stainless steel Lambdas were introduced. That release was notable because the Lambda had always been available only in solid gold, so a steel version was of particular interest to Nomos collectors who prize the brand’s watches for their great value. This release, in a way, is the inverse of the Lambda limited editions, with a model that is very much associated with stainless steel being introduced in gold. It makes a lot of sense for the Tangente, often cited as the most directly Bauhaus inspired watch in the Nomos catalog, to get this kind of treatment. In steel the straight lugs matched with the circular case appear almost severe, but the whole package has a warmer and more inviting sensibility in rose gold. It still looks delicate and impossibly precise, now just with a notably more luxe feel.  The dial for this version is inspired by early watches made in Glashütte, and beyond tying this r...

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The Fourth Mathey-Tissot Collaboration with Massena LAB is a Colorful Tribute to 1968 Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Nov 9, 2023

The Fourth Mathey-Tissot Collaboration with Massena LAB is a Colorful Tribute to 1968

Now in their fourth collaboration together, Swiss brand Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB have once again brought their individual strengths to give us the Chronograph ‘68. This vintage-inspired watch is the best of both worlds: providing a great timepiece, while also being a stylish, vintage inspired accessory for anyone looking for an upgrade to their wrist rotation. The impetus for this watch’s design comes from the tumultuous year of 1968. As Mathey-Tissot recounts the various cultural shifts during this period in history, one really has the sense that there was a dramatic change happening as the world was preparing to ring in a new decade. Mathey-Tissot and Massena cite events like Arthur Ashe’s historic victory at the U.S. Open and the emergence of “mod” culture in London as important cultural touchstones from the year, and the Chronograph ‘68 exists as a kind of tribute to a very specific point in history by adhering to particular aesthetic choices rooted in late ‘60s watch design. To commemorate this period, Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB looked at various reference points of watches that were sold during the 1960’s. The result is an amalgamation of design elements that work seamlessly together to make a timeless watch that could easily be made today or 60 years ago. From the black dial against the 41mm stainless steel case, to the reflective hour markers, to the three colorful registers in red, white, and blue, the balance of neutral design and pops of ...

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Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03 Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR 03 Former Olympic Nov 8, 2023

Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03

Former Olympic cycling coach Dave Brailsford once said, “If you broke down everything you could think of that goes into riding a bike, and then improved it by 1%, you will get a significant increase when you put them all together”. The new Bell & Ross BR 03 features several small tweaks to its most iconic line of watches, and although not every modification is objectively ‘better’, the combination of all of the changes give us a watch that somehow feels less intense and therefore significantly more wearable. I’ve spent some time with the new BR 03 Military Ceramic to work out just what makes it feel so different. On the face of it, not much has changed. A reduction in case diameter from 42mm all the way down to 41mm isn’t earth-shattering. Without seeing the two side by side you would be hard-pressed to know which one you are looking at. The other case changes are just as subtle. The shape has been altered slightly to round the corners a little more. The introduction of the BR 05 in 2019 saw a much softer ‘square’ shape from Bell and Ross. The new BR 03 remains much closer to the square instrument panel shape the brand is famous for, but the silhouette reshaping is one of those 1% changes mentioned above. $4300 Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03 Case Micro Blasted ceramic Movement BR-CAL.302 Dial Khaki Lume Numerals and hands Lens Sapphire Strap Khaki rubber Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 41 x 50mm Thickness 10.6mm Lug Width 24mm Crown Pu...

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Happenings at the Geneva Auction Season Fall 2023 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 7, 2023

Happenings at the Geneva Auction Season Fall 2023

Regarded as a bellwether of the market, the Geneva auction season just concluded with the main players – Phillips, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum – having staged their sales over four days. Several records were set over the season, including CHF2.1 million for an immaculate Rolex ref. 6062 triple calendar in steel at Phillips, and CHF2.2 million for the George Daniels Millennium also signed by Roger W. Smith, both including fees. Trending one way Despite the record holders, the tone of the season was set by moderating or even weak prices. This was already evident with the most faddish of the “hype” watches last season six months ago. The May auctions saw prices for such watches gap down substantially, reflecting a new reality. Now the same appears to be happening for independent watchmaking – a good thing in my view as it will hopefully shake out the opportunists and no-hopers. The Roger W. Smith Series 2 hammered for CHF400,000 at Phillips (or CHF508,000 with fees), which is below the current retail price for the model and a third below the price of the lower-priced Series 1 that sold in the same venue in May 2023. The Phillips saleroom at La Reserve. Image – Phillips This phenomenon was not unique to Roger W. Smith, with prices gapping down for significant independents like F.P. Journe and Voutilainen. However, these brands remain buoyed by their relative reasonable retail prices, which still remain below recent auction valuations. Even if some exa...

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