Results for Caliber 9S85

Geneva Watch Days 2026: the 10 releases worth knowing so far

From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.

Fears Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar: Britain's Most Ambitious Brunswick Yet

A compact perpetual calendar from a 180-year-old British brand hitting a genuine milestone

The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese Is MB&F;'s Most Historically Grounded M.A.D. Edition Yet

A jumping hour complication rooted in real independent watchmaking history, wrapped in the M.A.D.Editions formula

Atelier Wen x Massena Lab Inflection Shuò: Tantalum, Gold Dials, and a Very Smart Collaboration

The Inflection gets a Geneva Watch Days 2026 upgrade, with Massena Lab bringing two gold dial variants to an already serious tantalum sports watch

Watch Ho & Co. x Selten Yum Cha: Hong Kong's Dim Sum Culture on Your Wrist

The third collaboration between Watch Ho & Co. and Selten is their most ambitious yet, with a hand-engraved grand feu enamel dial that looks like steam rising off a bamboo basket

Norqain's Freedom GMT Enjoy Life Holiday Edition Hides a Golden Ticket to the Maldives

500 pieces, a COSC-certified true GMT, and one very lucky buyer flying to Ayada Maldives Resort

Greubel Forsey Balancier QM: A New Hallmark and a Refined Take on the Brand's Accessible Classic

The Balancier gets a serious upgrade, and a new designation that could define how Greubel Forsey talks about quality from here on out.

Philippe Stern, the Man Who Made Patek Philippe the World's Most Admired Watch Brand, Dies at 88

The honorary president who kept the family independent, survived the quartz crisis, and built a generational legacy

Beaucroft Arc: The UK Microbrand's Best Everyday Watch Yet

The Arc builds on the beloved Seeker with refined construction, better finishing, and the kind of quiet confidence that makes a watch hard to take off.

Zenith and Naoya Hida & Co. Team Up for a Double-Signed G.F.J. Calibre 135

The Le Locle manufacture launches a new collaboration program, and its first partner is the most talked-about independent in Japan

Is Tudor’s Revamped Royal Collection Actually their Best Watches & Wonders Release?

As is always the case with Tudor, it seems that the internet is divided on their major new Watches & Wonders releases in the days after their unveiling. But while comments are volleyed back and forth on whether the of the Black Bay 54 Blue is actually too purple, or the Monarch should have been smaller, one new release that actually might be kind of perfect is going under the radar.  Ok, “perfect” could be overstating it, but the newly relaunched Tudor Royal really impressed me. If there’s a “most improved” award to be handed out to a collection, the Royal might grab it.  There are three sizes, 30mm, 36mm, and 40mm, all with manufacture calibers for the first time in the collection. The 40mm Royal has a day-date indication that is similar (identical, really) to the execution of the day-date on the Rolex Day-Date. All of the movements (MT5201, MT5412 and MT5633) are chronometer certified.  Aesthetically, these are integrated bracelet sports watches that veer more toward the elegant end of the sports watch spectrum. Long a staple for Tudor in the Asian market, they’re looking to expand the Royal’s reach this year with some very noticeable finishing improvements. The bezel in particular is very nicely executed, with sharp notches and a very high polish that works particularly well on the two tone models, where it is rendered in gold.  I think another factor working in Tudor’s favor with respect to the Royal is the current broad acceptance of smaller watche...

TAG Heuer’s Latest Monaco is an Impressive Achievement in Additive Manufacturing

Dubai Watch Week is upon us, and TAG Heuer is using it as a launching pad for for a new version of what is objectively one of the most impressive watches they’ve ever made. The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 builds on the Monaco Split-Seconds that was introduced at Watches & Wonders in 2024. That one, you’ll recall, had a movement fashioned largely from titanium and weighed in at just 85 grams. The retail price at the time was a head scratching CHF 135,000, but it was also an incredibly impressive caliber and feat of engineering. Rattrapante chronographs like this are indeed quite rare, and certainly one with a caliber made of titanium is unheard of and adds additional layers of complexity to whole endeavor.  The new Air 1 version of the watch is still 85 grams, but it achieves that weight even with new solid gold components in the case. The design of the case, still in the iconic Monaco square, has been substantially reworked and inspired by design and manufacturing processes that are part of the Formula 1 landscape. The case has effectively been hollowed out, with intricately skeletonized case flanks designed to maximize the weight to performance ratio. TAG Heuer achieves this through a process they refer to as Selective Laser Melting (SLM). This is an additive manufacturing process that is typically applied in aerospace, medical, and automotive manufacturing, and like other forms of 3-D printing it’s essentially a cheat code in achieving otherwise impossi...

Grand Seiko Adds a New Dress Watch with the 9SA4 Caliber to the Collection, Plus a New Tentagraph

Almost as soon as Grand Seiko released the SLGW002 and SLGW003 at Watches & Wonders 2024, we started to wonder what this new class of manually wound dress watch from one of our favorite brands might look like in different variants. This seemed like a natural platform for expansion, and we figured it was just a matter of time before we saw some alternative dial options and new metals. In the year and a half or so since Grand Seiko introduced these watches, and the 9SA4 caliber powering them, things have been quiet on the manually wound dress watch front. That is, until this week, when we finally got a peek at the new SLGW007, Grand Seiko’s first new launch with this case and movement since the big debut at Watches & Wonders last year.  While the most obvious update on the surface here is certainly the new dark blue dial, it’s actually the case itself that really has my interest. The SLGW003, you’ll recall, was crafted from Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium. This is a very cool material, for sure, but has a niche appeal in a classically styled dress watch like this thanks to its ultra light weight and the associations we all have with titanium and tool watches. The SLGW007 is in stainless steel, and I’m incredibly curious to see how this might change the character of the watch on the wrist. One would certainly expect it to be a bit heavier, but I imagine the finishing will also have a slightly different, perhaps more traditional look to it, at least in the con...

Inside The Manufacture: A Look Through the Exhibition Caseback: Laurent Ferrier’s Finishing Techniques

For Laurent Ferrier, finishing is a big part of what sets a hand-built, in-house movement apart from mass-produced calibers.

Seiko’s Advanced Astron Collection Gets Four New References

If you like your watches complicated and your timezones varied, chances are you’re already aware of the Seiko Astron GPS Solar line, first launched in 2012. No, the watch doesn’t shout haphazard driving directions at you. Instead, its latest models use GPS technology and a solar-sensitive dial to automatically update the time according to your geographic position up to twice a day. But Seiko wasn’t done there-almost exactly a year on from the introduction of the Caliber 5X83, the first pairing of Dual-Time tech with a chronograph function, Seiko has unleashed four new Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs. Each of the four new watches-references SSH175, SSH177, SSH179 and limited-edition SSH180-features a titanium bezel with a sapphire crystal insert, adding a touch of practicality and elegance to the already robust profile of the Astron. An imposing 44mm mirror-polished titanium case houses the Caliber 5X83 movement, which promises a litany of advanced features, most prominent of which is the aforementioned GPS-controlled time and time zone adjustment. A world time function, perpetual calendar correct to the year 2100, automatic DST adjustment, AM/PM and signal reception indications, accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, and more round out the slate of functions. Of course, the titular chronographs also loom large on the dial, with a 1/20th second counter at 12 o’clock and a 12-hour counter with hours and minutes at 6 o’clock during chronograph operation...

Bring a Loupe: A Philippe Dufour Duality, A Zenith Caliber 135 Chronometer, And An Odd 1920s Cartier

All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.

Photo Report: Assembling Caliber 9SA4 at the Grand Seiko Boutique

I’ve always had a fascination for peeking behind the curtain. Whether it was tearing apart broken electronics, rebuilding car engines, or opening the caseback of my first Seiko, I’ve always wanted to see and know how things work. As I’ve gone deeper into the horology rabbit hole, I’ve become more interested in the physical process of assembling a movement. While I can watch any number of YouTube videos, there’s something special about seeing it done in person, especially when you get to watch a Grand Seiko Watchmaker at work. Last week, I was invited to Grand Seiko’s boutique for a live assembly of their new 9SA4 movement, a high-beat, manually wound high frequency movement featuring Grand Seiko’s proprietary dual impulse escapement and 80 hours of power reserve. If you’d like to learn more about the 9SA4 and how it was created from the 9SA5, Zach Kazan covers that in detail here. This event was hosted at Grand Seiko’s Madison Avenue boutique (we celebrated the grand opening of this boutique in March, click here for the recap article) which features a gorgeous open concept main level, and an intimate lower level they’ve dubbed “The Cellar”. Unlike any cellar I’ve ever been in, this lower level features multiple lounge spaces, a full bar, a dedicated presentation space and, of course, plenty of watches. You’ll also find various items of cultural significance from the towns surrounding the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, which inspire the design o...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: An Incredible Parmigiani Fleurier Pocket Watch, Zuck’s Hawaiian Bunker, and the 100 Best TV Shows of All Time

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Parmigiani Fleurier L’armoriale Pocket Watch  Sometimes we get word of a watch that is just too beautiful and special not to feature. It’s become a tradition for Parmigiani Fleurier to create a special, completely unique pocket watch every year to celebrate founder Michel Parmigiani’s birthday, and this year they’ve really outdone themselves with a watch they’re calling L’armoriale.  The heart of the timepiece is a mechanical caliber dating to 1890 that was restored by Parmigiani in 1985. Originally a chronograph minute repeater, the movement now features both of those complications as well as a perpetual calendar with a moonphase, a pretty incredible demonstration of Parmigiani’s skill as a watchmaker as well as his devotion to restoration and preserving and sometimes even enhancing horological history. The white gold case features a beautiful enameled caseback, and of course virtually everything here is completely handmade and hand finished, down to the intricate chiseled adornments that run across the case band. It’s a real work of art, worth spending some time gawk...

Norqain’s Latest Wild ONE LE is a New Collaboration with the Hakuna Mipaka Wildlife Sanctuary in South Africa

In just five years, Norqain has established a unique identity as an independent Swiss watchmaker with a special focus on ruggedness and sustainability. With models named “Independence”, “Adventure”, and “Freedom”, Norqain represents individualism with a sense of responsibility. Now for the third time they have partnered with animal sanctuary founder Dean Schneider to create a limited edition watch: The Wild ONE Hakuna Mipaka in brown. Young Swiss financier-turned-conservationist Dean Schneider has managed the Hakuna Mipaka (Swahili for “No Limits”) wildlife sanctuary in South Africa since 2017. The 400-hectare haven has become a refuge for animals like King Dexter, a lion whose upbringing has been well-documented on social media. It is also home to thousands of animals such as giraffes, zebras, and various reptiles. Hakuna Mipaka is not open to the public and therefore relies on donations and other forms of support. Like the most recent collaboration with Dean Schneider, this new watch is part of the Independence Wild ONE collection. Production of this line is entirely animal-free, a north star for Norqain and the rest of its products. The case (42mm x 12.3mm x 49.4mm) is made of NORTEQ, a custom carbon composite that sandwiches a rubber shock absorber integrated with sand from Schneider’s North African oasis. Inside is the manufacture caliber NN20/1 (manufactured by Kenissi) housed in a titanium enclosure. On the sapphire caseback is a special engraving ...

In-Depth: Bulgari Celebrates The Serpenti’s 75th With Two New Micro-Caliber Mechanical Misteriosi

We say Happy Birthday to the Italian icon that proves you can wear a watch and be glamorous all at once.

Introducing: Atelier de Chronométrie's New Chronograph Caliber Is A Stunning Return To The Past

What We Know If you're following artisanal watchmaking with all the flash and hype of the independent space, you're forgiven for missing Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie. Their watches don't often show up on social media, largely because they are entirely bespoke, one-off commissions based on the various architectures they offer. But we've been covering them since 2016, and the product (and potentially their clients' tastes) has gotten better and better. Outstanding, in fact. That's how I'd frame their new AdC16, the company's first two-counter chronograph. If you don't like the design, that's fine—you can customize it however you like—but top-down, movement-to-specs, the watch is really attractive to a vintage lover like myself. Atelier de Chronométrie allows customization of the case and dial, as well as finishing on the movement (a variation of which they are going to share soon, based on this movement), but in this case, they've made a really nice, compact, 36mm Calatrava-style case that is reminiscent (with the dial) of a Vacheron Constantin 4072. The case is two-tone yellow gold and steel and has a black galvanic gilt-style dial (though not actually done the original way, as the press release states; more likely pad-printed), with yellow gold applied markers and hands. The kicker is really the movement. The base design is the venerable Valjoux 23, but they've redesigned the shape of several bridges and levers while trying to keep the entire gear train fe...

Breitling’s New 40mm Dive Watch With An Updated Caliber - Superocean H

Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.

The Grand Seiko 45GS Returns with the New Hand-Wound Hi-Beat Caliber 9SA4

Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 GMT watches commemorate 25 years of Caliber 9S

Introducing: Grand Seiko Is At It Again With A Pair Of Limited Releases To Celebrate The 25th Anniversary Of The Caliber 9S

Dial in the clouds and not a care in the world.