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The Last Article You'll Ever Need On Finding True North With Your Watch
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SJX Watches
Cartier Debuts a Trio of Flagship Complications
Although the most classic – and simple – of Cartier wristwatches designs have lately enjoyed resurgent popularity, the jeweller still makes exceptionally complicated watches. Its latest is not one but is a three-part set, the Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”. All three watches are amongst the brand’s flagship complications that go beyond design and into the realm of ingenious and unusual watchmaking. And the trio share a common theme of the mysterious display and tourbillon, fusing an optic illusion that is synonymous with Cartier and the rotating regulator. The Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon with a jade cabochon on the crown Initial thoughts Each of the watches in the set is special for how it combines Cartier’s traditional design with intriguing technical details. Although the movements are modern in style – the skeleton bridges have a dark grey finish – the designs remain classical. And the streamlined, “mysterious” construction of the movements belie the complexity of their construction. But the movements are unquestionably appealing, both in concept and execution. A curious mind might ponder how the mechanics seemingly float within the case. It’s an old trick that makes it seem like there is no connection between the movement and the case, but a good one that still has visual impact. While the details of the watches are elegant, all of them are huge. The smallest of the trio is 43.5 mm in diameter, and the larges...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: This minty-fresh foursome celebrates the Seiko 140th Anniversary from a tough Seiko 5 to the technical tour de force of Astron.
It’s 140 years since Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori established his first watchmaking shop in Tokyo. To mark this occasion, the Seiko designers must’ve had a craving for menthol judging by the icy cool aesthetics of the Seiko 140th Anniversary collection. Seiko 5 Sports 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SRPG47K1 Let’s kick off with the most accessible … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: This minty-fresh foursome celebrates the Seiko 140th Anniversary from a tough Seiko 5 to the technical tour de force of Astron. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer
Having made its debut two years ago with a dual-dial watch that combined an automatic and quartz movement, Klo & Co. is an unusual “microbrand”, having been started by a trio of young Filipino watch enthusiasts. The Manila-based brand has just unveiled the Alpesailer, a steel sports watch with an internal rotating bezel and an integrated bracelet. Head-on, the Alpesailer clearly derived from Gerald Genta’s famous octagonal design – think of it as a “Super Compressor” style homage to the Royal Oak. That being said, the bezel is actually brushed and round on top, with a polished octagonal base, bringing to mind the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While the watch wins no prizes for ingenious design, it’s well spec’ed and only US$400. Depth rated to 100m, the case measures 41mm wide and 12.5mm in height. It features a “Super Compressor” style design with an internal rotating bezel and twin crowns – one for winding and setting, the other for rotating the bezel. However, like most modern watches inspired by actual Super Compressor dive watches from the 1960s, this does not have the same, Super Compressor sealing technology pioneered by case maker Ervin Piquerez, which relied on a spring-loaded back that press against the case as external water pressure increased. While the twin-crown design remains attractive even today, advancements in the fabrication of cases, crystals and gaskets have made such sealing technology superfluous in a modern watch. The A...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 27th October, 2016 – the smart watch / dumb phone edition
There has been terrifying talk in the Time+Tide office of the ever-dwindling amount of time until Christmas (nine Fridays, NINE FRIDAYS) and you can almost hear the luxury watch industry kick into high gear – parties are planned, last minute products launched, all in an attempt to earn a coveted spot under your tree (and … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 27th October, 2016 – the smart watch / dumb phone edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
A Technical Perspective – Deconstructing The Miyota 9075 GMT And Understanding How A True GMT Works
Not too long ago, last February in fact, I had the opportunity to get my hands on a series of Miyota automatic movements, of which I disassembled the ubiquitous Calibre 9015. My prime goal was to learn more about its construction and simply find out how it looks when you take it apart. And as […]
SJX Watches
Interview: Zenith’s Product Chief Officer on Reviving the Chronometer Cal. 135
For much of the past quarter-century, Zenith has built its brand on the back of the El Primero — a fast-beating chronograph calibre that debuted in 1969. But last year — for its 160th anniversary — the brand revived the time-only calibre 135 – a legendary competition calibre originally developed in the late 1940s. The reborn movement debuted within a new collection — the GFJ — named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot. To better understand what lies behind the relaunch of the cal. 135, we talked to Romain Marietta, Chief Product Officer at Zenith. David Serra, Technical Director of Movement Development, provided additional production insights. As Mr Marietta explains, the relaunch of the cal. 135 opens a new chapter for Zenith — more exclusive and more artisanal, featuring precious materials, elevated finishing and a classical aesthetic inspired by the designs of the 1950s. In short, closer to the independent watchmakers’ approach and to their audience. And this is only the beginning — the Le Locle-based brand has plans to further develop both the calibre and the collection. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Let’s start at the beginning: what makes cal. 135 so special? Romain Marietta (RM): For context, it was produced from 1949 until 1962. At the time, the pursuit of precision had a real genuine meaning. Watchmakers measured their strength, stature and reputation through the prizes they won. This movement was created f...
Worn & Wound
Omakase and the Measure of Time: What Kiwame Tokyo and Sushi Teru Reveal about Japanese Craft
There is a specific moment, perched at the hinoki wood counter of Sushi Teru in the West Village, when you realize you are no longer ordering a meal, you are surrendering to it. This is the soul of omakase: “I leave it up to you.” It is an exercise in radical trust, a silent pact […]
Worn & Wound
Bravur Introduces the Grand Tour Sprinter Chronograph
Bravur, the Swedish watch brand that has developed a very specific niche dedicated to cycling themed watches, has announced their latest in that ongoing series, the Grand Tour Sprinter. To this point, most of Bravur’s cycling watches have been limited releases tied to specific races. A cycling race, it turns out, really lends itself to creative watch design, as it allows a brand like Bravur to take advantage of the unique jersey colors associated with specific races as well as easy to recognize timing and texture nods that cyclists will immediately recognize but would be very subtle (and unobtrusive) for everyone else. The Grand Tour Sprinter is a little different. Rather than taking inspiration from any particular race, the Sprinter pulls from a racing concept and an important individual on any competitive cycling team. A sprinter on a cycling team plays an important role reserved for the race’s final moments. Over the course of a long race, the sprinter is held back and protected by the rest of the team. Near the end of the race, the sprinter is repositioned with assistance from the rest of the team to make a break for it at the 1 kilometer mark. Timing the sprinter’s final run and orchestrating that moment is critical in a close race. The Grand Tour Sprinter is a chronograph with many subtle and not-so-subtle nods to cycling and the role of the sprinter that is very much in keeping with previous Bravur watches in the same vein. Like other watches in this serie...
Deployant
WWG 26: One for the ladies, Kayla picks of her favourites from the new releases
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Editor’s note: Our next Armchair Pick is from our first of two guest writers. We have Kayla Low who contributes her picks of new releases from this WWG26 for the ladies. Kayla attended one day at PalExpo and wandered around to view her favourites. WWG 26: One for the ladies, Kayla picks of her favourites [...] The post WWG 26: One for the ladies, Kayla picks of her favourites from the new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Time+Tide
Christopher Ward unveils its new flagship C63 Sealander, and now, it’s a True GMT
Investing in developing its own true (or traveller) GMT movement just so they could deliver optimal functionality at affordable prices.The post Christopher Ward unveils its new flagship C63 Sealander, and now, it’s a True GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Last Call For Pizza! Studio Underd0g And Time+Tide Serve Classic Cheese And Burnt Pepper0ni Pizzas
The original Pepper0ni and Hawaiian pizza watches that our friends at Time+Tide cooked up with Studio Underd0g in 2024 started life as an April Fools’ joke the year before. Then, they turned into a very real, very tasteful, and very successful collaboration. They toured the world through a series of pizza parties and finished with […] Visit Last Call For Pizza! Studio Underd0g And Time+Tide Serve Classic Cheese And Burnt Pepper0ni Pizzas to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Revisiting Art Deco design with the Ferro Paramount Vino
Canadian microbrand Ferro pens a tannic, wine red tribute to the 1930s in the form of a Art Deco-inspired two-hander.The post Revisiting Art Deco design with the Ferro Paramount Vino appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Bremont’s Dubai Watch Week Lineup Sees New Additions to the Terra Nova Jumping Hour and Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Monopusher Families
Well, dare I say, we’ve moved past the sticker shock of the “new” Bremont. Two and a half years on from Davide Cerrato taking the helm at the British brand, the discourse around direction seems to have died down, and the new vision for the brand - founded by Nick and Giles English and now owned principally by hedge fund manager and activist investor Bill Ackman - is increasingly clear. If I’m being honest, I’m still not sure what to make of this new Bremont, but one thing that’s for sure is that seeing new releases sporting the Bremont “Wayfinder” logo is no longer the jarring experience it was in March of 2024. And it means I can say that Bremont’s latest releases, a pair of 50-piece limited editions unveiled for Dubai Watch Week, each make a tremendous amount of sense in the context of the current Bremont collection. It’s a big step for the brand, which has had to do a tremendous amount of work over the last few years to make the latest interpretation of Bremont make sense. If I’m being wholly honest, I’m still not sure that the new Bremont is really for me (I’m not sure it’s meant to be), but I do know that when I see their new releases, they are unquestionably Bremont watches. What we have today are two reinterpretations of watches initially released earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, each differentiated by notable aesthetic changes. The first of these is a new iteration of the Terra Nova Jumping Hour, introduced for the first time ...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” Movement Cal. 4132
The cal. 4132 inside the Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” is a rare evolution of one of the most revered chronograph movements in modern watchmaking. Based on the long-running cal. 4130 platform, the new movement was developed specifically for the Daytona “Le Mans” unveiled in 2023 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the famed endurance race. While visually similar to the cal. 4131 found in current-production Daytonas, the cal. 4132 incorporates a clever mechanical upgrade that allows it to record up to 24 hours of elapsed time. Given the relatively simple upgrade from a 12-hour to 24-hour counter, the cal. 4132 might seem like a weekend project for a brand with the engineering might of Rolex, but the reality is more nuanced. To achieve this, Rolex engineered a compact differential gear set that doubles the timing capacity without altering the core movement architecture, leaving the movement dimensions unchanged. As with many Rolex innovations, the cal. 4132 reflects the brand’s quiet obsession with functional longevity and serviceability. The latest Daytona movements reveal a degree of decorative finishing unseen in past generations of Rolex movements An already quirky base For over two decades, the Rolex cal. 4130 stood as the benchmark for industrial chronograph movements. Launched in 2000, the cal. 4130 was the first in-house chronograph movement developed by Rolex. The movement was lauded for its compact architecture, low component count, and ease of service – a...
Fratello
Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try?
The new Tudor 1926 Luna marks an unexpected first for the brand - a moonphase complication. We have come to expect new variations within the Black Bay or Pelagos lines. This time, though, Tudor chose its most understated collection for a milestone complication. The result is a 39mm dressy number with the brand’s very first […] Visit Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Behrens Teams up With Vianney Halter
Behrens teams up with Vianney Halter for the bold, electric meter-inspired KWH Watch, in white or rose gold. A unit of measurement for electricity, KWH is short for “kilowatt-hour” and refers to the electric meter inspiration for the design. The extremely dense movement combines the brand’s chain-driven hour display with rotating minute and power reserve cylinders, and a surprise on the back. It also represents a new frontier for the Chinese brand, as its most expensive offering yet. Initial Thoughts While Behrens’ watches do not always appeal to me aesthetically, I think the brand is an ideal champion for Chinese watchmaking. Unlike some brands marketing Chinese-built watches to global enthusiasts, Behrens is Chinese owned and operated. The brand’s founder, Lin Bingqiang, cut his teeth making parts and custom modules in Shenzhen for brands down in Hong Kong before starting Behrens in 2012. An exploded view of the 870 part movement. Many Chinese manufacturers excel at the engineering and manufacturing side, but have weak soft skills and lack vision. Behrens is strong on all fronts, and this is the brand’s most ambitious, and expensive, project yet. The brand may be over-reliant on computer-generated imagery, but I can confirm these watches are real, functional, and doing the rounds at Geneva Watch Week. Case On the heels of a collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin, Vianney Halter’s partnership is now with Behrens. This comes only days after Mr Halter’s coll...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: Behrens and Vianney Halter Collaborate on the Impressive Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition
Vianney Halter, the legendary independent watchmaker, has collaborated with Behrens, the Chinese indie that over the last few years has gradually upped the ante in terms of their watchmaking and their own ambitions in the international watch industry. The new watch, the Behrens Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition, is sure to be one of the most talked about watches of Geneva Watch Days 2025, and should cement Behrens as a real player in the independent watch scene, while reintroducing Halter to a new generation of enthusiasts. Collaborations within the indie watch world are frequent, so it’s worth spending a moment to contextualize the importance of Vianney Halter working with Behrens on this watch in particular. Halter is considered by many to be on the proverbial Mt. Rushmore of indie watchmakers who set the stage for the modern avant-garde watchmaking moment that we’re in the midst of. His Antiqua, a truly radical design upon its release, is still one of the most influential watches of its era, or any other. That he’s chosen to not just lend his name to a Behrens release but actually create an all new caliber for it feels like the strongest possible endorsement, and a signal that he and the young Chinese brand share a certain watchmaking philosophy. The chief aesthetic inspiration behind the new piece is the square shape of antique electricity meters and the concept of “pixel nostalgia” (think video games like Snake and Tetris and you get the idea)....
SJX Watches
Massena Lab and Vianney Halter Team Up for Steampunk Regulator
Massena Lab’s latest collaboration is a steampunk regulator wristwatch created together with Vianney Halter. Blending the best of both their respective styles, the Old Soul is an unusual yet appealing proposition for collectors looking to get a sampling of the independent watchmaker’s best known works. The Old Soul displays the time regulator-style, with the hours, minutes, and seconds on separate registers. But it indicates the minutes with a clever trick: a “floating” minute pointer on a clear sapphire disc. Inside is a vintage Minerva movement that’s been dressed up for the occasion but still recognisable as an early-20th century calibre. Initial thoughts The Old Soul a continuation of the collection that began with the Old School made together with Luca Soprana. If Massena Lab founder William Rohr’s aesthetic sensibilities prevailed with the earlier watch, it is Mr Halter’s signature style that dominates the Old Soul. The Old Soul is unquestionably quirky - both as a whole and in the details. The watch looks like a regulator, but lacks the traditional vertical sub-dial arrangement. It also lacks a central minute hand, featuring instead a “floating” diamond-shaped pointer. The “floating” hand is a nifty optical illusion but it’s a straightforward concept that replaces the hand with a clear disc. Inside the piece ticks an equally unexpected movement, a “new old stock” Minerva cal. 17.22. According to Massena Lab, it was the discovery of a fo...
Worn & Wound
Massena LAB and Vianney Halter Team Up for the “Old Soul”
Before there was MB&F;, before there was Richard Mille or Greubel Forsey or De Bethune, there was Vianney Halter. Alongside brands like Urwerk, Vianney Halter helped to reimagine what watches could look and feel like coming into the 21st century. Writing in 2025, it’s hard to think of a time when the weird and wonderful wasn’t a core part of watch collecting, and Vianney Halter deserves no small amount of praise for his role in bridging the gap between a more traditional interpretation of independent watchmaking and the wide-open world of watch design we now get to enjoy. Still, nearly three decades on from the release of his first watch in 1998 (the inimitable Antiqua Perpetual Calendar), Vianney Halter is still working, and his latest release, the Old Soul - designed and executed in collaboration with William Massena and Massena LAB - is a sterling reminder that the old master isn’t out of tricks just yet. Like Halter’s last collaboration, the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Regulator, which was released around Thanksgiving last year, the Old Soul leans into Halter’s Steampunk sensibilities, but blends the unique aesthetic with Massena’s signature eye towards historic watch design. The resulting piece is something both classically beautiful and wholly contemporary. Cased in a sedate and handsome 42mm, 12mm thick steel case, the Old School by Vianney Halter and Massena LAB is powered by the Minerva calibre 17’22, a vintage pocket watch movement first introdu...
SJX Watches
Prix Gaïa 2025 Awarded to Dr Helmut Crott for Scholarship
Awarded annually by the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), one of Switzerland’s leading timekeeping museums, the Prix Gaïa recognises individuals who have contributed to watchmaking in three categories. This year’s winner in the “History [and] Research” category is Dr Helmut Crott. Best known for having founded the eponymous auction house, Dr Crott is also an author, scholar, and former owner of Urban Jürgensen, amongst other roles. In 2021 he authored Le Cadran, an in-depth study of dials and dial making techniques of 20th century wristwatches. Le Cadran by Dr Helmut Crott Past winners of the Prix Gaïa include Reinhard Meis, Jonathan Betts, Pierre-Yves Donzé, Kathleen Pritschard, and Ludwig Oechslin, all scholars and authors who have contributed substantively to the body of knowledge in the field. Alongside Dr Crott, this year’s winners are Jean-Jacques Paolini for “Entrepreneurship”, and Roger W. Smith for “Craftsmanship [and] Creation”. As the successor to Georges Daniels’ brand of English watchmaking, Mr Smith now produces watches under his own name, with his achievements and timepieces well known. Jean-Jacques Paolini Mr Paolini, on the other hand, is less known outside the industry, but he is arguably most responsible for building the enterprise that’s the largest employer in La Chaux-de-Fonds. In 1980, Mr Paolini took over his family’s case and bracelet manufacturing business, developing its operations sufficiently that it was acq...
Monochrome
First Look – Omega Launches Two New Seamaster Aqua Terra Turquoise with Ceramic Bezels
Since its introduction in 2002, the Seamaster Aqua Terra has gained the status of the all-terrain watch by Omega, as its name suggests. Despite its clear nautical inspiration, this watch is your perfect everyday all-rounder, capable of tackling most environments and still look classy when needed. By now, the collection has grown to include virtually […]
Monochrome
Interview – At The Heart Of The Tour de France With Sylvain Dolla, CEO of Tissot
Widely regarded as the pinnacle of road cycling, the Tour de France demands everything from its riders. In 2025, the 112? edition covered approximately 3,338.8?km over 21 stages. Every second matters. Traditionally, fans remember the legendary 1989 showdown where Greg?LeMond edged Laurent?Fignon by just 8?seconds, the narrowest margin ever, with precision timing the heartbeat of […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Cool Retro TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Stopwatch
In recent times, TAG Heuer has done a great job of balancing modern-looking Monaco releases with others that tell the great racing stories from the past. By doing so, the brand caters to a varied audience. I lean heavily into the Monaco’s historical side because that’s where I find the romance of this classic. So […] Visit Hands-On With The Cool Retro TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Stopwatch to read the full article.
Deployant
Life in Techniclours: Quirky and Fun Watches Under S$10K
In this week's article, we take a quick look at a series of quirky and fun watches which are priced at S$10K or below.
Time+Tide
Tudor gears up for the Tour de France with a new limited edition Pelagos FXD Chrono
Yellow details honour the Tudor Cycling Team's leader Fabian Cancellara's time in the yellow jersey. The post Tudor gears up for the Tour de France with a new limited edition Pelagos FXD Chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![[VIDEO] Five Fun Casios Under $50](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/06/Casio-Pop-42.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Five Fun Casios Under $50
One look into the catalog of Casio and you’ll notice no shortage of fun and functional digital watches (and also digital pianos, calculators, and medical devices if that’s your thing). Besides maybe the dermatological imaging devices, Casio’s catalog has a lot of different products and the main theme running throughout is their playful nature and quirky features. I appreciate the fact that Casio looks to solve problems (like knowing when to fish, what the tides are, and what time it is in other locales) with interesting and unique displays. Sure, a lot of this can be done by wearing an Apple Watch, but to me, these purpose-built devices just have so much more character than the now ubiquitous Apple Watch. Another cool thing about them is the focus on value and affordability that make adding a Casio (or five) to your collection a great way to bring some fun back into watches. Today, we’re taking a look at five watches from Casio, each with their own fun feature sets that clock in at under fifty bucks a piece. Sure, they might not have the catchiest model names, but either way - let’s dig in. Casio Pop LF20W-8A Standout Features: Fun animations in a bio-based resin case. Casio’s Pop LF20W-8A features a bio-based resin case and plenty of features. Between the renewable case material and multi-year battery life, this economical and ecological watch is perfect for slapping on your wrist with minimal impact to the earth and your wrist (since it’s so light). I r...
WatchAdvice
The Hublot Aerofusion Titanium Chrongraph Is Fun On the Wrist!
The Hublot Aerofusion Titanium Chronograph isn’t your normal sports watch. It’s unapologetically bold, has striking wrist presence and ultimately, fun! What We Love The skeletonised dial looks great The look of the polished titanium gives it a lot of wrist presence Has the DNA of the original Classic Fusion Original, which is the essence of Hublot What We Don’t The clasp design could worry some wrists 45mm will be large for some The power reserve is on the smaller side compared to others on the market today Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 It doesn’t get too much more Hublot than the Classic Fusion collection, well, at least from a brand DNA perspective. The Classic Fusion is really where it all kicked off for the brand back in 1980 when Carlo Crocco had the crazy idea of putting rubber and precious metal together on a sports watch. Although it wasn’t called the Classic Fusion back then, that came later under the leadership of Jean Claude-Biver. The design was also something new and daring. Hublot is French for “Porthole” as as such, the design mimiced this with the bezel design and “H” shaped screws that are found on the case. From those beginnings back in 1980, the brand has grown immensely to what we know today. Hublot is a brand that is not afraid of breaking convention, going against the norm, and really just doing it their way! Over the years, Hublot has evolved substantially an...
Monochrome
Introducing – Omega Launches The Seamaster Aqua Terra 30mm Collection with New Master Chronometer Movements
Omega releases a new sub-collection of its Seamaster Aqua Terra in 30mm cases with metal bracelets spread across 12 references. A classic all-rounder, the 30mm Aqua Terra models are powered by two new in-house automatic movements. Designed to fit the smaller case size, calibre 8750 and 8751 are the smallest and slimmest co-axial Master Chronometers […]
SJX Watches
Understanding the Vacheron Constantin Solaria with Christian Selmoni and Jean-Marie Bouquin
SJX recently visited Vacheron Constantin and sat down with Christian Selmoni, style and heritage director, and head of speciality watchmaking, Jean-Marie Bouquin, to discuss the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch yet made. Mr Bouquin led the development of Solaria, and assembled it, creating a wristwatch that’s a worthy follow-up to the most complicated portable timepiece ever, the Berkley Grand Complication that was launched just last year. That in turn broke the record set by Vacheron Constantin in 2015 with the ref. 57260 “Tivoli”. They discussed the intricacies and innovation in the Solaria, including its modular “plug and play” perpetual calendar, and the implications for future Les Cabinotiers projects, as well as the novel star-tracking chronograph, and the benefits of using silicon for the spokes of the balance wheel. They also touched on the absence of a grande et petite sonnerie.