648 articles · 2 videos found · page 7 of 22
Quill & Pad
As the resident gentleman of Quill & Pad, the H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse should have Martin Green's name written all over it. Yet when he first saw the watch, he didn’t boil over with excitement. This is not the first logoless, minimalistic watch that Moser has made, so what does it add to what is already there? Read on to discover the answer.
Time+Tide
Taste is subjective, we all have our individual preferences – therefore what irks me may not necessarily irk you. But What Tweaks My Tourb is all about the horological features and quirks that make me shudder. You may well totally disagree with my views in this series and I wholeheartedly welcome that too. In a marketplace … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Why asymmetrical running seconds drive me crazy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A variant of a longstanding reference in the Patek Philippe catalogue, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R-011 is only set apart by its slate-grey dial, but unusual nonetheless – it’s the sole model in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection in that colour, where the predominant colours are silver, blue, black, and a splash of salmon. Initial thoughts Historically the split-seconds seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in gold was often paired with a silver dial. But as the new World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P illustrates, Patek Philippe is continuing to add new colours into the regular catalogue, instead of reserving them for limited editions or special orders. The rose gold version of this reference is already available with a black dial as the ref. 5204/1R, but matched with a weighty and flashy rose gold bracelet. The new ref. 5204R in contrast is a relatively low key watch, which will appeal to anyone who wants a “Grand Complication” that’s, well, low key. The colour palette of the new ref. 5204R is a familiar because it works well. This makes the ref. 5204R the most appealing version of the model currently available; it is certainly more striking than the conservative model with a silver dial. That said, I do wish Patek had taken the opportunity to redesign the dial slightly, perhaps with slimmer hands and a moon phase display on the top of the lower register. As it is, the moon phase display leaves the dial bottom he...
Revolution
With the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T, Special Revolution in hand, Wei gives the rundown of a great revelation that the already impressive COSC & Geneva Seal watch has, an enigmatic stop-seconds function, making it one of only six tourbillons in existence from major watchmakers that feature.
Revolution
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T, Special Revolution is the thinnest COSC & Geneva Seal stop-seconds tourbillon available today. Here’s why this matters.
Deployant
Possibly the most iconic design created by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Reverso was first created in 1931. It was birthed from a practical need by British officers, to have a wristwatch that could survive the harrowing effects of a game of polo. The latest iteration in 2021, the 90th anniversary of the Reverso, comes in a green dial, set to the simple sub-seconds time only wrist watch.
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We take a complicated adventure with split seconds chronograph and pick 6 of the best. From Lange, Patek, Journe, IWC, Sinn and Habring.
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The sub-seconds or petite seconds display is as traditional as early wrist wear gets. Originally the layout of choice for pocket watches, early adaptations of the wrist watch also adopted the sub-seconds layout. Today, we select three of the most captivating sub-seconds timepieces released in Watches & Wonders 2021 that you should know about.
SJX Watches
First revealed in 2015 inside the Harmony Grande Ultra-Thin Complication Chronograph, the cal. 3500 is a thin, split-seconds chronograph movement with a beautiful construction and novel peripheral winding mechanism. After a brief hiatus, the cal. 3500 has returned at Watches & Wonders 2021 with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Cleaner and more formal in style than the Harmony of 2015, the new Traditionnelle split-seconds boasts the same gorgeous cal. 3500, and because it’s a Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) edition, a solid platinum dial. Vacheron Constantin is on a roll with the CEP watches in 2021, with the Traditionnelle split-seconds being the second CEP edition for the year, after the elegant and quirky American 1921. Initial thoughts I was wowed by the cal. 3500 when it made its debut in the Harmony split-seconds chronograph in 2015, and found it a shame that the movement disappeared from the catalogue. The cal. 3500 deserved to be revived, and now it has been. Beautifully traditional in its construction and endowed with intricate and elegant details, the cal. 3500 is one of the finest modern-day chronograph movements. Beyond its aesthetics, it is also exceptionally thin at just 5.2 mm high, making it a feat of construction. And it is also innovative with its peripheral winding mechanism, which is admittedly not new but almost never found on classically handsome movements. The cal. 3500 The Traditionnelle sp...
SJX Watches
Best known for its chronographs – especially those for pilots – Breitling now ups the ante with the Premier Heritage Duograph that just debuted alongside the new Premier Heritage chronographs. Named after the split-seconds chronograph Breitling produced during the 1940s to 1960s, the new Duograph is Breitling’s first hand-wind split-seconds chronograph powered by an in-house movement (it did debut an automatic split-seconds in 2017). Capable of recording two elapsed time simultaneously, the split-seconds is also known as a rattrapante – derived from rattraper, French for “catching up” – and was historically Breitling’s most expensive chronograph due to its complexity. The B15 in the new Duograph simplifies the construction of the split-seconds mechanism, resulting in a surprisingly affordable watch, with the steel version priced at about US$10,000. Initial thoughts Alongside with the release of the Datora, the Duograph is proof that Breitling is inching towards more complicated chronographs, which is a good progression for the brand. Breitling has a storied history with chronographs, and the Duograph is a return to form for a brand that was put back on track when Georges Kern, previously the chief executive of IWC, took the wheel and set a new course. The Premier B15 Duograph in steel It is important to note that the rattrapante is a challenge to do well, which is why few brands offer the complication, while those that do often price the split-seconds ...
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Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds In a world dominated by round wristwatches, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso stands out as among the most recognisable non-round timepieces in the market. Deemed by many connoisseurs as a must-have watch in any collection, the success of this reversible, rectangular watch is not just down to its timeless design, butRead More
Time+Tide
The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red ticks all my own personal boxes in a big way. The fact that I am a dial man who loves a coloured face and has a marked preference for three-hand watches makes it seem perfect on paper. Fortunately, it’s even better in the metal. … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red presents a dial that’ll make you weep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
H.Moser have become central to the revival of deep fumé or degradè dial finishing. Their deep colours captivate your attention like no flat black dial ever could. In this video we check out the the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red, which certainly lives up to its colourful name. This luscious … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: You’ll get lost in the spellbinding dial of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hot on the heels of the RM 72-01 powered by the brand’s first in-house chronograph movement, Richard Mille has just introduced the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph, continuing its historical focus on ultra high-end chronographs, which began with RM 004 of 2003. Not only is the RM 65-01 the first self-winding split-seconds chronograph from Richard Mille, it’ll also be the brand’s first serially produced watch with the complication, joining watches like the RM 11 as a mainstay of the line up. Initial thoughts Highly-complex chronographs are embedded in Richard Mille’s DNA – the company’s first chronograph was RM 004, which was a hand-wind, split-seconds powered by a Renaud & Papi movement. And in the space of a year, Richard Mille has unveiled two all-new chronographs, starting with the RM 72-01, and now the RM 65-01. RM 65-01 in Carbon NTPT The RM 65-01 is typically Richard Mille in style and materials, exuding sportiness with its techno-industrial movement finish, skeletonised dial, and multicoloured indicators. On any other watch, the colours would look like the designers are trying too hard, but in the RM 65-01, they just work. The movement, however, is notable for being a technically accomplished calibre produced by Vaucher, the respect movement specialist that’s a sister company of Parmigiani. Historically Vaucher has only supplied movements for the brand’s entry-level timepieces, while the more complicated calibres were made by Renaud ...
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Richard Mille introduces its first split seconds chronograph with an automatic movement. The new RM 65-01 Automatic Split Seconds Chronograph.
Time+Tide
Once again they manage to surprise us, from ironic rectangular horology to a hypnotising collaboration with MB&F;, to this, where Moser enter the ring for the strongly contested Integrated Steel Sports Watch Bracelet contest. Yes, I tried it on – and did not want to take it off – the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Patek Philippe releases an ultra complicated watch in the form of the Ref. 6301P Grande and Petite Sonnerie Minute Repeater with Jumping Seconds. This is the first Grande and Petite Sonnerie without any other complication in a Patek Philippe wristwatch. Press release information with commentary in italics Key highlights Grand Complication highlighting the chiming functions:Read More
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Formed only recently by two young watchmakers, Petermann Bédat’s very first timepiece is the 1967, a time-only wristwatch featuring an elaborate deadbeat seconds mechanism. Unusually, the brand made its debut in a gradual manner, having shown its first prototype in 2018 before launching the final version of its debut watch earlier this year. Even more unusually, the successive iterations of the 1967 progressively improved, in both style and finish, to a point where the production version of the watch is simply marvellous. Initial thoughts When I saw a prototype of the 1967 last year, I didn’t think much of the design, but the movement was clearly well done, even in as a half-finished prototype. Rather than massaging the earlier design into better shape, Petermann Bedat ditched it in favour of what you see here. Best described as a modern take on the fashionably retro “sector” dial, the dial looks good and also shows off the brilliant finishing. The decoration visible on the front hints at the quality of work, and the movement visible from the back confirms it. In the smallest details the greatest finesse is visible, in the sharp points of the deadbeat seconds anchor or the escape wheel bridge below the balance. Crucially, the watch pictured is a prototype – amongst other things, the hands are incorrect and the wheels for the deadbeat seconds mechanism are not perfectly finished – yet it is obvious the quality of execution is excellent. Beyond its tangible qua...
Time+Tide
We track down the five most price-inflated Rolexes.The post Retail versus secondhand: which 5 Rolex models have the most inflated prices on the seconds market? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For watches released this year, blue has definitely been a trending dial colour. Tudor, Panerai, Montblanc, and more have all released blue watches this year – making it hard to stand out in its usage. H. Moser & Cie, however, is always up to the challenge and continually preserves its status as a pioneering haute … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
H. Moser & Cie. CEO, Edouard Meylan talks to us about their Streamliner line of watches, launched earlier in 2020 as a chronograph, powered by the incredible Agengraph. And now the newest addition to the line, the time-only Streamliner Centre Seconds with a Matrix Green dial.
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H. Moser & Cie. unveils the Streamliner Centre Seconds, following the Flyback Chronograph as the second model in the Streamliner collection.
Time+Tide
As a distillation of what a Japanese firm does best, the Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers a compelling line of thought – if you’re looking for a great watch on the more affordable side of things, do you pursue the usual mechanical suspects or high-end quartz? With a case based on the iconic 44GS design, an … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks and stone cold killer accuracy of +/- 10 seconds a year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. debuted its inaugural sporty watch in 2015 with the Pioneer Centre Seconds (and followed up recently with the even more sporty Streamliner). Now Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red with a red fumé dial joins the line up. Both the colour and name are inspired by the original Swiss Mad watch of 2017, which took its colours from the Swiss national flag. Initial thoughts As is typical of Moser’s fumé finish, the dial is immediately gripping. The graduated, smoked finish results in a colour that varies in shade depending on lighting and perspective, which adds a lot of visual appeal. Though graduated-colour dials were not invented by Moser, it has become synonymous with the brand. Moser has presented fumé dials in green and many shades of blue, but bold red finish is perhaps the most enticing to date. Although the Pioneer is technically a sports watch, the elegant styling of the dial does not translate well onto such the large, almost-43 mm case, which definitely wears and looks large on the wrist. I would have preferred a case of say, 38 mm, large enough to be a sports watch, while still complimenting the dial. Minimalism While the colour is striking, the watch itself is minimalist and no-frills in the usual Moser style, displaying only the time without any superfluous elements on the dial. Still, the dial manages to incorporate several details that add to the appeal, including faceted markers, open-worked hands, and luminous dots on the flange. De...
SJX Watches
Unveiled in 2015, the ref. 5370P-001 was Patek Philippe’s second split-seconds chronograph powered by an in-house caliber, after the watches equipped the smaller, slimmer, and far more expensive CHR 27-525 movement. With a black grand feu enamel dial featuring Breguet numerals that gave it an eminently classical style, the ref. 5370P was a hit with fans of the brand. Now the black-dial ref. 5370P has been discontinued and replaced by the Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370P-011. The new model is identical – with the same CHR 29-535 PS inside a 41 mm platinum case – except for the dial, which is now grand feu enamel in a stunning blue. Initial thoughts Like many others, I am a huge fan of the 2015 original for its balanced, restrained design that is also eminently legible and clear. As a fan of Patek Philippe’s traditional designs, the watch was also appealing for the design lineage that can be traced to Patek Philippe watches of the mid-20th century. While the original is compelling for its vintage cues, the new version feels more modern with the blue enamel dial. As a colour that’s been in vogue for a couple of years, the new dial transforms the personality of the watch into one that is more contemporary. While this facelift will undoubtedly be popular because blue dials are the colour du jour, I still have a preference for the original as the black enamel dial was more understated and in keeping with the brand’s historical designs. Precious materials Being...
SJX Watches
Established by a robotics entrepreneur, Sick Toiz specialises in, well, “sick toys” – exceptional objects with a mechanical bent that have been produced with high-end methods and then finished by hand. Amongst its most extraordinary, and preposterous, creations is the Rattrapante Passage Lock, a door lock and handle that functions like a bona fide split-seconds mechanism. Initial thoughts The Rattrapante Passage Lock is an ordinarily trivial item – it is in essence a door knob – executed to an excruciatingly high standard. Clearly catered for a niche clientele who have an innate appreciation of engineering, finishing, and machining, the Passage Lock costs US$63,500. It is ridiculous, but also incredible. Sick Toiz founder Tyler Schilling obviously spared no expense in building an ultra-complex door handle, either in design, manufacturing, or finishing. The components, for instance, are made on a five-axis CNC machine, instead of a four-axis CNC machine, which would have simpler and probably yielded a barely discernible difference. Even the spokes of the split-seconds wheel have bevelled edges. Something like this is only possible when conceived by someone who genuinely appreciates such things and importantly, someone who can afford to back such a project as a hobby. An engineer’s eye The man behind Sick Toiz, Tyler Schilling, is a nerd in the best sense of the word. Having grown up with a father who was mechanically inclined but a doctor by profession, Mr Schil...
SJX Watches
Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie made a name for itself with its beautifully crafted watches that capture the grace of 1940s timepieces. But all of its work so far has centred on time-only watches, all powered by heavily decorated vintage Omega movements. But now the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph takes things to a whole new level. Retaining the elegant feel of the brand’s earlier creations, the AdC #8 is powered by a reworked movement that started out as a Venus 185 but completely reworked by Atelier de Chronométrie, with a substantial number of parts made from scratch. Commissioned by an American collector, the AdC #8 is largely hand made, with everything hand finished to a superlative, artisanal standard, which is why it took took two years to complete. Initial thoughts I first found out about this watch late last year, and it sounded promising given Atelier de Chronométrie’s track record in design and movement finishing. Though I am going by photos, the finished product definitely lives up to expectations, and then some. Everything about it is just done extremely well, and while it costs a lot of money, the AdC #8 is compellingly and reasonably priced as such things go. Having closely examined Atelier de Chronométrie’s earlier watches, the AdC #8 will undoubtedly have the same feel – visually similar to a vintage watch but much more solid in the hand thanks to a more robust, modern case. A little under 40 mm in diameter, the AdC #8 has the proporti...
SJX Watches
First revealed a year ago as a prototype with a dial that was a work in progress, the Petermann Bédat 1967 wristwatch with an unusual deadbeat seconds mechanism has just been launched in its final form. Mechanically identical to the prototype – it’s equipped a secondary escapement for the jumping seconds – the refined 1967 now has a partially-open dial that shows off the finely-finished keyless works. Initial thoughts The prototype 1967 deadbeat seconds was let down by an uninspiring faux-classical dial, which was a shame, because the movement was executed to an impressively high level. Fortunately, Messrs Petermann and Bedat embarked on a total redesign of the dial. Independent watchmakers don’t often make drastic changes to designs in response to criticism, but the two did so, and the result is a success. The new 1967 is a handsome watch that manages to look modern while evoking classical dial design. In fact, the new dial is essentially a “sector” dial with a sapphire chapter ring, a novel combination that has not been done before. And it is matched with Petermann Bédat’s take on classical lance-shaped hands, which complete the contemporary feel. The new 1967 in rose gold. Photo – Petermann Bédat Dial aside, the rest of the watch is largely identical to the prototype. The movement was already excellent and will be almost unchanged in the production versions, although Mr Petermann says that the engraved lettering on the three-quarter plate will be im...
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We take a good look at the quintessential Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds with blue dial from SIHH 2017.
SJX Watches
Project Z is Harry Winston’s distinct approach to the luxury-sports. Named after Zalium, a zirconium-aluminium alloy that’s strong, light and resistant to corrosion, Project Z usually combines the exotic alloy with an open-worked dial. The new Project Z14 sticks to the established formula, but in a first for the line, features a retrograde seconds. Initial thoughts At a glance, the Project Z14 would not be remiss among the previous Project Z watches, looking futuristic and avant-garde just like its siblings. Notably, it shares the same sculpted, brushed case and a multi-layered dial accented with the signature Harry Winston shade of blue. The oversized crown guard with triple fluting is inspired by the arch above the doorway to Harry Winston’s flagship store on New York’s 5th Avenue The enhanced sense of depth and structure is what sets the Project Z14 apart from its predecessors. A small tweak that makes for this significant difference is the chamfered bezel, replacing the flat and smooth found on the past offerings. Providing more angles and facets to a case that is already architectural in style, the chamfered bezel blends in perfectly with the various bevels on the case and lugs. With such a modern design, it is no surprise that the case is large – 42.2 mm in diameter and 10.7 mm tall – and suited to contemporary tastes. The openwork dial The visual depth is compounded by the attractive, open-worked dial that boasts a multitude of details. The grid-motif...
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