Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Return Of The Rolex Meteorite Daytonas, The Ultimate Version Of The Ref. 126519
A closer look at a favorite option from the current Daytona catalog.
3,880 articles · 367 videos found · page 70 of 142
Hodinkee
A closer look at a favorite option from the current Daytona catalog.
Worn & Wound
I have the unfortunate obligation to begin this review with a shocking admission: Zach Kazan was right. Some time ago, during one of my back-to-back travel periods where I jumped through time zones, I had a spirited debate with our Managing Editor. I maintained that I not only enjoyed having a GMT, but needed one to keep my timing straight; while Zach insisted that I was wrong. In the past, a traveller’s GMT had been an invaluable tool in the workplace, keeping me mindful of editors working in other time zones. Yet, Zach argued that all you needed was an independently adjustable hour hand and some basic math skills. If you are working across time zones, do the math. If you are traveling through them, change the hour without messing with minutes and seconds. Immediately upon landing back in New York from a trip to London, I started looking for an Omega Aqua Terra. During my search, it struck me as odd that this jumping hours complication (without an associated GMT) was not more widely seen, and never really on the more attainable side of things. Sure, you can find it in models from Omega, parts of Citizen’s The Citizen collection, the Ming 17.09, and newer Grand Seiko 9F models; but all of those will set you back a few thousand dollars. That is, until now. As if from some stroke of divine intervention, I received word of a new watch coming from Trafford Watch Co., utilizing a clever movement alteration to achieve this complication at a much more attainable price point...
SJX Watches
Although Francois-Paul Journe is best known for his inventions like the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance, not to mention the whole suite of Octa models, the Chronomètre Souverain was also arguably one of his brand’s foundational models. This year F.P. Journe is marking two decades of the watch with the Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, which is essentially the original in new dress – the dial is now dark blue with applied gold numerals. Initial thoughts When the Chronomètre Souverain debuted in 2005 – the same year as the Breguet Tradition that was recently revived – it was novel and exciting; I remember the buzz amongst enthusiasts then. The F.P. Journe brand was barely six years old. The Chronomètre Souverain was then one of the rare few time-only watches from an independent watchmaker, and it had an all-new movement to boot. Today it is less exciting for sure, but the movement remains surprising novel for a basic calibre. As an entry-level watch, the Chronomètre Souverain remains excellent (even if availability is an obstacle). Although the Chronomètre Souverain is the simplest mechanical F.P. Journe watch, the cal. 1304 inside still retains the technical hallmarks of the brand, namely elegant, concise engineering and symmetry. Clever touches include the “invisible” gear train; only the regulator and barrels are visible on the main plate. From its conception, the cal. 1304 was conceived for chronometry. The utility and strength of t...
Hodinkee
Simplicity and elegance. So much so that it may have flown under your radar.
Monochrome
French watchmaking is enjoying a renaissance today marked by the revival of extinct names and new micro-brands braving the arena. However, none of them can boast Pequignet’s claim to fame as “one of the only French Manufactures of Haute Horlogerie.” Following a period of trials and tribulations, Pequignet is back in business with a refreshed […]
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SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2025, all eyes were on Rolex. But the polarising Land-Dweller grabbed most of the headlines, relegating new versions of existing models, including the mighty Cosmograph Daytona Turquoise Blue ref. 126518LN, to second billing. Regardless, the Daytona remains one of the most iconic watches in the industry and its inherent quality makes any new version worthy of a close look. In this case, those who probed the depths of the Rolex catalogue were rewarded with the unusual combination of an 18k yellow gold case and a turquoise lacquer “Stella” dial. (And those lucky enough would have seen the “off-catalogue” Daytona ref. 126538TBR with an actual turquoise stone dial and diamond-set case.) Initial thoughts Let’s just say this was not love at first sight. I initially found this new colourway overly garish, but I am a sucker for turquoise, whether natural stone or, in this case, lacquer, so the look has grown on me over time. I think I’d have preferred a different treatment for the sub-dials, which to my eye dull the vibrancy of the turquoise, but this is a subjective critique of an objectively well-made watch. Dial colour aside, the new Daytona benefits from the model’s 60th anniversary updates rolled out two years ago, including the gold rim for the ceramic bezel. The case offers roughly ideal proportions for a sporty chronograph, 40 mm in diameter and around 12 mm thick. It also comes equipped with the brand’s rubberised Oysterflex bracelet, ...
Monochrome
We’ve covered independent Swiss watchmaker Horage many times in the past few years, including several of its in-house movements from automatics to micro-rotors to tourbillons. The latest Autark Tourbillon separates itself as it’s truly a rare feat in watchmaking, combining a micro-rotor and tourbillon within the in-house K-TMR calibre. It’s all wrapped in Grade 5 […]
Monochrome
Here, at MONOCHROME, we write about watches. That’s our job. However, before that became what we do on a daily basis, we all shared a sheer passion for watches, with, of course, our personal preferences. Our founder, Frank, is well known to be a fan of independent watchmakers and monochromatic watches (obviously…) I, for instance, […]
Monochrome
For a retro-styled chronograph, the beauty lies in mechanical and historical details. With the new Chronographe Télémètre, Angelus again reaches into its storied archives to recreate the past and distil its essence into a remarkably fresh and undeniably refined timepiece. The latest addition to the La Fabrique collection, the Chronographe Télémètre debuts in three variations: […]
Monochrome
Pascal Raffy’s acquisition of the historical Swiss watch brand Bovet in 2001 was accompanied by an ambitious dream of reviving the brand as a temple of decorative arts and Haute Horlogerie. Towering above conventional watchmakers with its complex in-house movements, dramatically staged complications, and lavish artistic flourishes, Bovet’s watches are as unique as they are […]
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Monochrome
In haute horlogerie, few relationships have shaped timekeeping history quite like that of John Arnold and Abraham-Louis Breguet. Bound by shared respect and a deep commitment to mechanical innovation, their friendship helped lay the groundwork for modern precision watchmaking. Arnold & Son’s latest release, the Constant Force Tourbillon 11, is a tribute to that legacy […]
Hodinkee
A monochromatic makeover makes this the sleekest resonance watch from the brand.
Monochrome
While all eyes were focused on the release of the new Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller collection, Rolex had a sumptuous surprise up its sleeve. Introduced in 2023 to replace (well, not officially, but still…) the Cellini collection, the elegant Perpetual 1908 premier dress watch returned to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a gold bracelet. Not any […]
Worn & Wound
Let’s take a quick inventory of some of the small watch brands making enamel dials of some kind. This is a segment that’s become ultra competitive in the wake of anOrdain, the Glasgow based indie that popularized this style of artisanal watchmaking in a more accessible way, coming on the scene several years ago. There’s 5280 Watch Company, based in Colorado and creating a truly unique enamel dial that is also decorated with an old fashioned engine turning technique. Then there’s Statera, based in Brazil, a brand that makes grand feu enamel dials that are meant to evoke midcentury classics from Patek Philippe and others. There are a bunch of brands who don’t specialize in enamel, but have dabbled in it, one way or another. We can include De Rijke & Co. here, who produced a limited run of champlevé enamel dialed watches with designs by Guy Allen last year. There are others: Louis Erard and Seiko have had notable enamel releases in the last few years, and we can even include James Lamb in the conversation, although the handmade silver cases he produces push his watches just a bit outside that tempting sub $5,000 price point. This much enamel would have been unthinkable in a pre anOrdain world, and I think it’s important to recognize that at the outset of any discussion of a new enamel dialed watch, because any new watch in this category will be seen, perhaps unfairly, as a challenger to anOrdain’s crown. Their waitlist now reportedly stretches to 2029, so i...
Worn & Wound
Every year, the watch industry plays the popular game “my favorite release from Watches and Wonders”. We try to pick unique watches, offer a unique perspective on them, and potentially shine a light on a model that we think deserves the title. However, I genuinely believe that if you told every one of those journalists that they had to purchase a watch announced at the show, roughly half would choose a different piece. They would most likely select something that suits their style better, fits into their collection, or maybe doesn’t shine as the most impressive piece but is still the one they want to take home. I am guilty of this. For two years in a row now, my “forced to purchase” choice has been a Tudor watch. Last year, the Black Bay ‘Monochrome’ made my purchasing shortlist further cemented after I had the chance to go hands-on with it for an extended period. The new black on black color scheme looked great, the METAS-certified caliber is impressive, and that five-link bracelet just wears incredibly well. But while last year’s Black Bay “Monochrome” was simply a new color extension, the Pelagos Ultra redefines the collection while setting a few benchmarks along the way. Touted as Tudor’s most technologically advanced watch yet, it somehow stuffs the stat sheet while remaining wearable. The lightweight case crafted from grade 2 titanium with a grade 5 caseback wears better than the 43mm diameter might lead on. At 14.5mm thick with a lug-to-lug of ...
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Monochrome
MeisterSinger’s single-handed watches have won over legions of followers and countless design awards. Based in Münster, Germany, the idea behind Manfred Brassler’s brand was to offer an alternative to hyper-precision time consultations with a more approximate and relaxed approach to telling the time. In a somewhat unexpected move for a brand associated with classic, elegant […]
Hodinkee
Zenith continues a year of blue with a brilliant new take on its triple calendar chronograph.
Worn & Wound
Before receiving the G5 Meridian, I had what I thought was a clear idea of Vaer in my head: mil-spec watches at an affordable price. Founded in Venice, California in 2016, the brand has built themselves a reputation of earnest capability and practical styling that appeals to budding enthusiasts looking for an everyday watch that leans towards rugged simplicity rather than fast-fashion. Vaer watches have been built in the States since 2018, with their first mechanical piece coming to market in 2019. Whether through my own lack of in-depth research or via social media algorithms showing me exclusively the brand’s field watches for some reason, I had apparently missed the relatively diverse other half of their catalog, spearheaded by the release of their first dive watch in 2020, first solar diver in 2021, and first chronograph in 2022. Since then, they’ve expanded each category into multiple references that cover a wide array of functions and styles, shirking my own narrow-minded ideas and, apparently, their own social media advertising algorithms. Thus, with a heap of welcome and humble surprise, I received the new G5 Meridian GMT and began my Vaer re-education. Unboxing My G5 arrived in a slim navy box with a clean, minimalistic design-appropriate for its price range, but not “cheap”-feeling in any way. I prefer minimal packaging (what the hell am I going to do with all these empty boxes anyways), and Vaer has done a nice job presenting the G5 as a serious, ent...
Hodinkee
Is the young independent brand's first round watch a hit?
SJX Watches
With its fifth new model in as many months, MB&F; has been on quite the run to kick off its third decade. Fresh off the launch of the fun and affordable M.A.D.2, which followed closely on the heels of a collaboration with Bulgari and the introduction of the the Legacy Machine Longhorn editions, the brand has returned with the SP One, a contemporary take on the open-worked dress watch. Sleeker than the typical Horological Machine yet more avant garde than a Legacy Machine, the pebble-like SP One is the first model in a new “Special Projects” collection that packages the brand’s signature contemporary aesthetic in a smaller more wearable 38 mm footprint. The SP One joins the collection as a regular production model in either platinum or 18k rose gold. Initial thoughts Picking up the SP One for the first time, one is struck by the light and airy nature of the watch. On the wrist, the minimalist case almost disappears, making the the SP One something of a wrist-worn display case for the Y-shaped movement. This effect is accentuated with a brushed internal flange dubbed ‘the amphitheater’ that focuses attention on the spectacularly three-dimensional mechanical architecture. The smooth pebble-like case measures 38 mm and is just 12 mm thick, making it the most compact MB&F; watch to-date. The front and rear sapphire crystals are cambered to blend seamlessly with the case, giving the SP One the feel of a polished stone. Visually, the smoothness is emphasised by lugs that ...
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Monochrome
It’s not every day we get to see a new Ressence, but in the past decade and a half, the brand has carved out an impressive reputation for originality and creativity. And in all honesty, it really is one of the most original brands around, with a unique take on how to display time. Especially […]
Hodinkee
A twist on the classic Reverso, JLC's latest Tribute is the ultimate reminder of the brand's core capabilities.
Hodinkee
A compact cushion-cased chronograph powered by the mighty B01 and rocking an iconic motorsport livery.
Worn & Wound
Sometimes, no matter how many hours we spend scrolling on Instagram and monitoring various watch-focused group chats, things slip through the cracks. Watches that check all the right boxes to rise above the noise of a crowded market go unnoticed and become sleeper hits instead of hits, and creativity that deserves widespread celebration instead receives a splattering of quiet applause. For collectors that enjoy witnessing brands evolve and develop distinct design DNA in real time, it can be a bummer to discover your radar missed something great. But on the bright side, this scenario allows for instant gratification and the opportunity to speed run a brand’s evolution to the present day. This was my experience when Italian microbrand echo/neutra released the Rivanera at the end of last year. Like many of you, I was pleasantly caught off guard by the rugged take on the classic rectangular dress watch, but didn’t recognize the name divided by a distinct slash on the dial. This sent me digging through surprisingly sparse reviews and forum threads where I discovered that the Rivanera was far from beginner’s luck, and was actually the result of a year’s long evolution that began in the way many do, with a safe and somewhat generic field watch on Kickstarter. Watching aging YouTube videos, this actual first release called the Averau (which later included a very cool moon phase) looks like exactly the type of watch I would’ve chased in 2019 when specs and MSRP were my pr...
Hodinkee
It might not be the most surprising or revolutionary, but it sure is really damn cool.
Video
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