Results for Fumé Dial

In-Depth: IWC’s ProSet Perpetual Calendar

IWC’s history was dotted with landmark innovations such as Albert Pellaton’s pawl winding system, Kurt Klaus’ famous perpetual calendar, and Richard Habring’s split-seconds chronograph module. Though IWC has arguably been thin on such innovation in recent years, the ProSet perpetual calendar is a long overdue return to form. The calendar’s clever features make it true to IWC’s identity as an engineer’s manufacture. Set entirely via the crown just like the Kurt Klaus calendar, ProSet can also be adjusted forwards and backwards, making it both idiot-proof and convenient. A smaller Big Pilot This bidirectional perpetual calendar module made its debut earlier this year at Watches & Wonders inside the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet, which blends the manufacture’s latest engineering feat with the beloved styling of the pilot’s watch. The ProSet system is currently only available inside the 42 mm Big Pilot. Powered by a downsized base calibre, the 42 mm ProSet is the first Big Pilot under 46 mm to include a perpetual calendar. IWC has a tweaked and scaled down the its signature Kurt Klaus module in the past for the 42 mm Portugieser and some Portofinos, but somehow it never made into the reduced Big Pilot collection. Unfortunately, these smaller watches lacked the now-iconic digital year display, and instead featured a subtler (but more forgettable) leap cycle aperture. The ProSet brings back the four-digit year display, making this watch almost ...

Breitling Launches A Top Time Trio Paying Tribute To The Aston Martin DB5

Breitling has announced a series of limited-edition Top Time B01 Chronograph models celebrating the Aston Martin DB5. These three motoring-inspired chronographs feature a cushion-shaped case with subtle Art Deco grooves in each corner. Combined with pump pushers, the design delivers a distinct 1960s character, making the connection to Aston Martin’s legendary British grand tourer feel […] Visit Breitling Launches A Top Time Trio Paying Tribute To The Aston Martin DB5 to read the full article.

Complicated Collectors: King Farouk I

On the morning of March 30, 1937, 16-year-old King Farouk I of Egypt visited the workshops of Vacheron & Constantin in Geneva. He had been on the throne for less than a year. His father, Fouad I, had died in April 1936, leaving him the crown, the palaces, and a collection that included one of the most complicated watches the Swiss had ever produced. The welcome was formal, as the company’s records and the following morning’s edition of La Suisse both confirm. The young king was received by the company’s directors and shown the workshops. He was already, by multiple accounts, deeply interested in watches as objects to be understood from the inside — the tour of the manufacture was a pilgrimage. Vacheron Constantin, before Plan-les-Ouates. Image – SJX composite/Vacheron Constantin At some point during the visit, Farouk made a remark that passed into the house lore of Vacheron & Constantin and into several of his subsequent biographies, though seldom accurately. The original French, as La Suisse reported it, was precise: “C’est qu’on n’abîmera jamais autant de montres que je n’en ai abîmé étant enfant!”, which translates as “One will never ruin as many watches as I ruined as a child.” Secondary sources have rendered this with démontées — dismantled — in place of abîmé; a small but telling substitution that transforms an admission of destruction into evidence of mechanical curiosity. A child who dismantles watches is a nascent watchmaker. ...

What Dreams Are Made Of: The Angelus Tinkler 1958 Steel Quarter Repeater

If you collect vintage Angelus watches or are simply interested in the brand, there are a handful of pieces you must hold in your hands. One is the mighty Angelus Chrono-Datoluxe. Another, some argue, is the Medical. The third place on my imaginary podium goes to the Tinkler. Sadly, all three are as rare as […] Visit What Dreams Are Made Of: The Angelus Tinkler 1958 Steel Quarter Repeater to read the full article.

The ABCs of Time - The Complex World of Casebacks

Many don’t realise just how complicated casebacks have become. Whether they’re contributing to high water resistance, displaying the movement or becoming part of the case itself, casebacks aren’t simply covers snapped on the back (although those do exist, of course). There are several ways to attach them to the case, and each method has a […]

eBay Finds: a Solid Gold Polerouter, an Iconic Seiko Diver, and a Pac-Man Appearance

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omax Spaceman  Here’s a fun one to start off this week, a vintage Omax Spaceman. The 37mm steel case is PVD (?) coated to give it a dark color. It’s in good shape, unpolished with normal wear that you would expect. The square case is very angular and nearly a pyramid, giving it a definite space-age look. The angular crystal is also in good shape, protecting a stark white dial with black hands. The unique crown is original. There are no movement pictures but the watch runs per the seller. I’ve seen a few of these over the years, but they aren’t too common. Just a really neat an unusual watch that will be fun to wear without breaking the bank. View auction here Vintage Pac-Man Watch  Is there anything more quintessentially 80s than Pac-Man?? If you lived the 80s like me, then Pac-Man is ingrained in your mind. Here’s your chance to relive that wondrous time with this killer vintage Pac-Man digital watch from Nelsonic! The watch is in amazing condition, looks like it was barely worn. The dial graphics are all intact and the four little direction buttons look new. The watch and the game are functioning properly, and the watch even comes on its original matching plastic br...

Citizen Drops New Promaster Dive 200M Models With Smaller Cases, Eco-Friendly Straps

The new Citizen Promaster Dive 200M collection trims down the case sizes, introduces eco-friendly straps, and a new dial color.

Is It Worth It? - The Praised But Underrated Seiko Marinemaster 300

I had already been running Fratello for a decade when Mike Stockton asked me in 2014 why we didn’t cover Seiko more often. It’s not that I ignored it on purpose; I was just more focused on Swiss and German brands. Slightly pushed by him, I bought my first Seiko watch. It was a Seiko […] Visit Is It Worth It? — The Praised But Underrated Seiko Marinemaster 300 to read the full article.

Best GMT Watches Under $650 We’ve Reviewed and Recommend

Explore the best GMT watches under $650. Use our hand-tested insights to learn how they perform, where they compromise, and what long-term ownership looks like.

Swatch x Omega Launch Mission To The Moon 1969 MoonSwatch

The latest Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission To The Moon 1969 goes high end with 11g of gold and an application process.

Our Favorite Tuxedo-Dial Watches In Every Price Range

We pick our favorite watches with tuxedo dials with options ranging from brands like Oris to Serica and Alpina.

Introducing - The New, More Compact C by Romain Gauthier Titanium Edition 39.5

First presented in 2021 as the Continuum and later renamed, the C by Romain Gauthier is a bold expression of a sporty-elegant watch by one of the most revered independent watchmakers, a man known for his superlative hand-made movement decoration. A rather strong departure from the complex Logical One, the intricate Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette or […]

Introducing: Five New Orient Mako 40 Models With Gradient Dials

Orient builds on its sporty Mako 40 line with five new compelling dial colors. The range introduces green, navy blue, brown, gray, and copper dégradé dials, each bringing a different personality to the collection. The last two are available only during the 2026 calendar year rather than being individually numbered limited editions. Brushed stainless steel […] Visit Introducing: Five New Orient Mako 40 Models With Gradient Dials to read the full article.

Breaking: Swatch just dropped a bomb. The MoonSwatch just went solid Moonshine gold

Ref. SSX01B700: solid 18K Moonshine gold dial, gold crown and pushers, 11 grams of the good stuff, and CHF 500 because Swatch decided to charge 1969 gold prices. Only 1969 pieces. ESTA lottery is live.

Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer

It has been almost a year since my last article, so no pressure at all! “It has to be an epic comeback,” I told myself as one month flew into another. There were many watch candidates with unusual stories, but getting back to writing became harder and harder each week. As it usually goes, that […] Visit Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer to read the full article.

Insight: Bidirectional versus Unidirectional Winding

One of the quieter debates still ongoing in the horological world revolves around the difference in winding efficiency between unidirectional and bidirectional winding mechanisms. There are two schools of thought on the subject: some watchmakers remain convinced that a bidirectional winding mechanism is the clear winner in terms of efficiency, while a second group claims there are no real performance gains over simpler unidirectional winding mechanisms. Harvesting energy The basic idea behind automatic watches is to harvest energy from the wearer’s natural arm movements to wind the mainspring. The rotor is an unbalanced mass (its axis of rotation doesn’t coincide with its center of mass) that is subject to both gravity and the inertial forces exerted by the wearer. As the watch moves through different positions, the rotor spins in unpredictable bursts, generating substantial kinetic energy. A winding mechanism then turns the fast revolutions of the rotor into slower but more torque-heavy turns that wind the mainspring. Common transmission ratios cited by horological textbooks range between 1:110 and 1:180 — meaning that the barrel click wheel only makes one turn for every 110 to 180 turns of the rotor. In short, the winding mechanism transforms the erratic kinetic energy of the rotor into potential elastic energy, stored inside the mainspring’s coils. A short history Much like any sub-genre of horology, the history of automatic winding is lengthy and nuanced. This ...

First Look: Doxa SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler, the icon resurfaces in Grade 5 Titanium

The fourth Doxa x Clive Cussler edition. Grade 5 titanium case, sandwich-cut titanium dial in Cussler's signature colours, Sellita SW200-1 COSC-certified movement, 300m water-resistance. Limited to 300 pieces at CHF 2,890 / EUR 3,190 / USD 3,390.

A Closer Look: Parmigiani Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux

Fratello Summer Tip: Keep Track Of Your Kids With Cybex Collection Watches

You want to relax this summer. You want to go to a nice place and chill, re-energize, and enjoy life without a worry in the world. And what is your biggest worry? No, it’s not picking the right summer watch. As always, it’s the kids. Napping on the beach, for example? With one eye on […] Visit Fratello Summer Tip: Keep Track Of Your Kids With Cybex Collection Watches to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the New Dune Trailer, a Fiat Arrives Stateside, and a New Watch from Haim

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Dune: Part Three – Official Trailer The trailer for Dune: Part Three dropped this week and, brother, I am seated. With each installment of Frank Herbert’s franchise, I am reminded just how well-deserved the $1.15 billion gross at box office has been. It has been no small feat for director Denis Villeneuve to make the vast scale and lore of Herbert’s universe digestible for mass-market appeal, while also being true to the intricacies of its source material. For Part Three, the story will focus on the culmination of Paul Atreides’ story, with his holy war now in motion and political tensions ever-present and ever-threatening (and, as a little treat, we also get to see that little freak Robert Pattinson with bleached hair and eyebrows). While this film marks the end to Villeneuve’s series, the franchise only focuses on the first two novels, leaving plenty of room for future filmmakers who are up for the challenge. But I know that good things come to those who wait, so I’m hoping there’s a director out there just chomping at the bit to bring Leto II and his big, disgusting sandworm body to IMAX. Meta Now Lets Anyone Use Your Instagram Photos in AI Images—Un...

Christopher Ward The Twelve Xander: A Graffiti Artist Takes On a Skeleton Movement

The Dial Artist brings hand-painted colour to Christopher Ward's The Twelve, and the result is one of the most visually striking affordable watches of the year

Jacob & Co. Goes Minimal with the Astronomia Régulateur

Frederique Constant Adds A GMT Watch To The Classics Runabout Limited Series

Frederique Constant brings a GMT to its Riva-inspired Classics Runabout for 2026. Two dials, 888 pieces each, and a dressier take on the water watch.

Christopher Ward Introduces The Twelve Xander, a New Collaboration with The Dial Artist

As Christopher Ward has grown in stature in recent years, it’s their most ambitious watches that have resonated the most with me, personally. Nothing against the Sealanders, Tridents, and the like, but the brand has really become interesting to me with watches like the Bel Canto and the Loco, and even the more artistic, design forward stuff like the C1 Moonphase. The Twelve collection falls into a middle ground, of sorts. The Loco, their most avant-garde watch, is built on the Twelve platform, but at its core it’s a fairly straightforward (though incredibly well made) integrated bracelet sports watch, something the hobby is not exactly in short supply of these days. But they occasionally stretch the bounds of the Twelve, exploring a variety of materials, ultra-thin case designs, and even finishing techniques.  And that brings us to the latest release from the UK based brand, the all new The Twelve Xander, a 150 piece limited edition made in collaboration with The Dial Artist, otherwise known as Chris Alexander. Chris has been expanding his portfolio as of late, after getting his start in the watch world adding custom, graffiti inspired art to off-the-shelf watches. He’s now an in-demand collaborator, having worked with brands like Holthinrichs on completely original dial designs and executions.  What makes this new project somewhat different is that there’s no actual “dial” for The Dial Artist to paint. The Twelve X is fully skeletonized, so Chris has added h...

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin Adds Two New 34.5mm Overseas Models To The Catalog

What We Know This week, Vacheron Constantin added two new 34.5mm Overseas models to the collection. There's a new version in steel with a red dial and a tone-on-tone version in 18k pink gold with a matching gold-toned dial. No, these new additions aren't the most groundbreaking introductions from Vacheron in recent times, but they are quite attractive and do well to flesh out the brand's small collection of mechanical mid-sized Overseas models. The distinct visual cues of the Overseas are all present on these models, with Vacheron's Maltese cross motif prominently shown on the bezel, crown, bracelet, and buckle. Proportions of certain elements like the bezel on this smaller Overseas feel quite thick, thanks to its relative sizing compared to the very compact overall dimensions of the watch, with a diameter of 34.5mm and a thickness of 9.33mm. Water resistance is rated to 150 meters, and there is a screw-down crown. Continuing the appeal of customization across the line, both versions come with three interchangeable straps: a full metal bracelet (with toolless micro-adjust), a rubber strap, and an alligator leather strap. The interchangeable strap options for the red dial Overseas. Though Vacheron is branding this as "a feminine take on sport-chic," the two executions released this week certainly can work on a wide array of wrists, thanks to eye-catching but versatile lacquered and sunray-brushed dials. The red dial of ref. 4600V/200A-H127 stands out, not just in hue, but a...

Australia’s Largest Exhibition of Cartier is on in Melbourne, Right Now

Indies Only! Dreaming Up My Ideal Microbrand-Only Watch Collection

I have a massive soft spot for small, independent brands. That doesn’t just apply to watches. I love it when people dare to stick their necks out and chase (probably naive) dreams in real life outside of the realm of big luxury groups. The results also tend to speak to me. These brands typically follow […] Visit Indies Only! Dreaming Up My Ideal Microbrand-Only Watch Collection to read the full article.

The Business of Watches Podcast: Henrik Ekdahl (Managing Director, Leica Watches & Accessories)

This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Wetzlar, Germany, home of the legendary camera and lens maker, Leica. Of course, Leica isn't just an optics company. Since 2015, it's been on a new mission to create watches as well, a project initiated by Leica's controlling shareholder, Dr. Andreas Kaufmann, who is not only passionate about cameras and photography, but also timepieces.  Henrik Ekdahl wearing a Leica watch and using a Leica camera in 1996 (left) during his first stint with the brand, and in 2024 (right) wearing a newer model Leica watch, after rejoining the company as head of watches and accessories. (Photo courtesy Leica) The person in charge of Leica's nascent watch ambitions is Henrik Ekdahl, a convivial Swede who has returned to Leica after more than two decades away, spent in the executive ranks of automakers, and, most recently, watchmakers such as IWC. Leica's connection to watchmaking is not unwarranted. Ernst Leitz, the company's founder, studied watchmaking in Neuchâtel in the 1860s. It was partly this mechanical know-how that allowed him to begin producing optical instruments, including microscopes and cameras, in Germany and to create the foundation for the company that would become Leica. The latest iteration of Leica watches, launched in 2022, is currently distributed only at Leica stores and online. Less than 5,000 watches are currently being produced each year by the brand, but Ekdahl says the watch division has ambitions to grow and make fu...

Introducing - The Second-Generation Studio Underd0g 02Series, Now Slimmer and More Powerful

The 02Series was Studio Underd0g’s “difficult second album”. Introduced in 2023 after the success of the brand’s colourful chronographs, it took a different route, reinterpreting the classic field watch through the British brand’s typically playful lens. Inspired by a theoretical 1945 Ministry of Defence brief and the famous Dirty Dozen watches, the collection paired compact […]

Seiko, Rowing Blazers, and Eric Wind Reunite for their Fourth Limited Edition Collaboration

Rowing Blazers and Seiko have partnered on their fourth limited edition collection, and they’ve once again teamed up with vintage watch dealer Eric Wind on the design. This partnership has produced a number of hits since the first collaboration appeared in 2021, and it all comes down to an obvious synergy between the participants. Rowing Blazers, Seiko, and Wind each occupy distinct areas of watch and style culture, but they overlap in such a way that these watches make a ton of sense in context.  The new limited edition consists of two watches, each limited to 2,500 pieces, and harkens a return to the Rally Diver format the partnership began with five years ago. Available in both 38mm and 42mm diameters, the new Rally Divers are based on a Seiko 5 design from the 1960s that Wind says was both his first vintage watch purchase and a reminder of his father’s chosen daily wear watches from Wind’s childhood. It underscores something anyone who has chatted with Eric Wind for even a moment likely understands pretty intuitively, which is that while he is known professionally for dealing in blue chip vintage watches from Rolex, Patek, and others, he’s no snob when it comes to the watches he personally enjoys. His love for Seiko and accessible vintage is genuine, and this collaborative relationship has never felt forced.  The Rally Diver is defined by its checkerboard “rally” bezel, an idiosyncratic choice for a dive watch that doesn’t have an obvious connection to ...