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Geneva Watch Days 2026: the 10 releases worth knowing so far

From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.
Happenings: New York Watch Week 2026 Is Almost Here Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Oct 6, 2026

Happenings: New York Watch Week 2026 Is Almost Here

It's that time of the year again! And no, I'm not talking about pumpkin spice season (but no shade if you're into it). I'm talking about the busiest time of the year for watches in New York, with New York Watch Week coming up in full swing. That means some of the most exciting watch shows in the Big Apple are happening over that weekend, with some cool talks, brand events, and more bringing it all together. Image courtesy WatchTime The two big shows that we all know and love will be very much present. WatchTime magazine continues the collector-favorite event centered around high-end watchmaking, WatchTime New York, happening from October 16th through the 18th. WatchTime seems to get bigger and bigger every year, and this year they'll be hosting a whopping 48 brands at Gotham Hall. Yes, it's hard to imagine how more brands can somehow fit into the space, but they've managed to make it happen. Along with many familiar names returning, some of the new brands making their debut at WatchTime will be Ferdinand Berthoud, Kudoke, Kollokium, Daniel Roth, and more. While Friday night tickets are sold out, single-day admission is available for sale at WatchTime for both Saturday and Sunday. To complement the high-end showcase at Gotham Hall, Windup Watch Fair (from our friends at Worn & Wound) returns also from October 16th through October 18th, at Center415 on Fifth Ave. between 37th and 38th St. The show will continue to be a delightfully overwhelming mix of everything watches and ...

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Power To The Pandagraph: Seiko Brings The 2024 Hit Concept Watch Into Production Fratello
Seiko Brings Oct 6, 2026

Power To The Pandagraph: Seiko Brings The 2024 Hit Concept Watch Into Production

I think it’s safe to say that pandas are universally beloved, and panda dials are among the most popular options for chronographs. That’s probably why Seiko’s so-called Pandagraph got so much attention back in 2024. The watch basically combined the two in the best way possible. You get the cuteness of the panda bear, including […] Visit Power To The Pandagraph: Seiko Brings The 2024 Hit Concept Watch Into Production to read the full article.

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Off the Cuff: Audemars Piguet and Konstantin Chaykin Think Beyond the Watch SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Think Beyond Oct 6, 2026

Off the Cuff: Audemars Piguet and Konstantin Chaykin Think Beyond the Watch

Watchmakers regularly turn familiar design cues into accessories, but Audemars Piguet and Konstantin Chaykin have taken notably different approaches to the genre with their latest offerings. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Joaillerie Collection recasts the Royal Oak as an extensive range of elaborate jewellery, while Konstantin Chaykin’s Master of Days cufflinks incorporate a tiny mechanical calibre that provides a day-of-the-week display. Both draw on the design and manufacturing specialties of their makers, but at vastly different price points and with different audiences in mind. Both approaches, however, lend themselves to gift-giving, which might explain the timing of the releases in the lead up to the holiday season. Initial thoughts Some of the biggest names in series watchmaking dabble in accessories on the side. The most obvious is probably Rolex, which made headlines when it formally launched a line of cufflinks — and a desk clock — late last year. Patek Philippe, too, has a long history of making jewellery and accessories. Today the brand offers cufflinks that match the Golden Ellipse, Nautilus, and Cubitus, and jewellery that takes after the Aquanaut and the Twenty-4. Even smaller-scale independent watchmakers evidently see value in the category. F.P. Journe offers a set of cufflinks in a choice of platinum or 18 pink gold — to match the brand’s watches — as does Biver. Franck Muller goes even further, with a full collection of Crazy Hours-inspired ne...

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Introducing: The Seiko Panda Watch That Stole The Show In 2024 Is Finally Here Hodinkee
Grand Seiko s Evolution 9 Collection Oct 6, 2026

Introducing: The Seiko Panda Watch That Stole The Show In 2024 Is Finally Here

What We Know Seiko has unveiled two limited-edition chronographs born from its power design project, a long-running internal design initiative that encourages designers to explore ideas beyond the constraints of commercial product development. The new watches are based on A Watch Exclusively for Panda Lovers, one of seven concept pieces presented at the 2024 Incredibly Specialized Watch Exhibition, where designers were challenged to create watches tailored to extraordinarily specific audiences. Among the seven concepts, none generated quite as much excitement as the panda watch. Nearly three years after its debut as a one-off exhibition piece, it has now become a production model—remarkably faithful to the original concept. The original "A Watch Exclusively for Panda Lovers" was displayed at the 2024 Incredibly Specialized Watch Exhibition. Original design sketches from the exhibition. The watch was designed by Kiyotaka Sakai, a member of Seiko's product design team who also works on Grand Seiko's Evolution 9 Collection. His starting point was a deceptively simple question: Is a watch called "Panda" really seen as a panda in anyone's eyes? The idea draws on the Japanese concept of mitate—finding unexpected visual associations between seemingly unrelated objects. While collectors have long referred to black-and-white chronographs as "panda dials," Sakai wondered what a watch would look like if it were designed not to resemble a panda dial, but an actual panda. The answe...

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Shinola’s Popular Duck Watch Goes Mechanical with the Quirkiest Campaign Ever Worn & Wound
Shinola Oct 5, 2026

Shinola’s Popular Duck Watch Goes Mechanical with the Quirkiest Campaign Ever

One of several running stories I’ve been working on lately is a chronology of influential watch ads, and perhaps I need to add this latest campaign from Shinola to the list. The headline is that the brand’s popular Duck watch is getting a mechanical movement. In my humble opinion, that’s a pretty exciting announcement within itself whether you’re a mechanical devotee who’s loved the aesthetic of the collection but been uninterested in quartz or whether you’re mechanical-curious and looking to acquire your first model with an automatic movement. However, Shinola decided to take things a step further with a wild launch campaign combining four personalities spanning entertainment, comedy, music, and internet culture – Tefi Pessoa, fresh off Love Island USA; Kareem Rahma, creator and host of Subway Takes and Keep the Meter Running; viral creator Benton McClintock; and New York rapper NEMS, whose ‘Bing Bong’ became an internet phenomenon. But that’s not all – somehow Cheerios (yes, the iconic cereal) is also in the mix. Let’s unpack this and how it all (supposedly) relates to the launch of this new watch.  First and foremost, we have to get into the watch itself. The new Duck Automatic collection is making its debut in four iterations. Each offers a well-proportioned 38mm build and is topped off with Shinola’s new quick-release H-link Duck bracelet with a micro-adjust buckle. There are two in classic stainless steel, one with an alabaster hydro sunray...

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Bring a Loupe: A Lucien Piccard Telephone, A Mappin and Webb Dress Watch, An Omega Admiralty, And A Jaeger LeCoultre Master Mariner Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar Oct 2, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Lucien Piccard Telephone, A Mappin and Webb Dress Watch, An Omega Admiralty, And A Jaeger LeCoultre Master Mariner

Friday's upon us again. Happy pumpkin spice season to all who celebrate. While you're deciding whether to see Digger in the theater, planning your elaborate Halloween costume, penciling in time to watch the WNBA finals and MLB playoffs, and tracking fallout from the Man City scandal, here are a few watches to tide you over as the mercury drops. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the ZRC went for €6,000, the Omega Ranchero for €3,500, the Cartier Santos sells tomorrow, and the Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar for $14,000. Strays Here's an honest-looking early Heuer 844, which, yes, has a worn crystal and bezel, and it 'requires attention' according to the listing. That said, it's got a decent-looking Monnin case, cathedral hands (meaning Mk 1), and a movement that's common enough to be fairly easily resurrected. For those who at some point fell into the Omega Symbol watch rabbit hole, here's a pair of excellent men's versions—this one and that one—and an accompanying pair of women's versions (this and that), and if all of that is gobbledygook to you, count yourself lucky and move along. If you've been hankering for a great-looking 1979 Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019, your time has come. Photo courtesy of The Saleroom. This is in the running as the prettiest school pocket watch I've seen in a long time, and a good argument for why people should continue investing more time, energy, and money into pocket watches. Bonhams' upcoming New York auction on the 8th has plenty of wo...

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Fratello Talks: Can Brand Ambassadors Help Create A New Generation Of Watch Enthusiasts? Fratello
Oct 1, 2026

Fratello Talks: Can Brand Ambassadors Help Create A New Generation Of Watch Enthusiasts?

Brand ambassadors have long been part of the watch industry. From actors and athletes to musicians and explorers, these familiar faces help bring brands’ watches to a wider audience. But can that visibility do more than sell watches? Can it spark interest in horology among people who might never have given the hobby a second […] Visit Fratello Talks: Can Brand Ambassadors Help Create A New Generation Of Watch Enthusiasts? to read the full article.

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Ianos Introduces the Amfivios, a Civilian Version of their Military Issued Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Sep 30, 2026

Ianos Introduces the Amfivios, a Civilian Version of their Military Issued Dive Watch

We’ve been saying it for years, but one of the things that makes the microbrand and small independent scene so exciting is that there is truly a watch for everyone. It’s a playing field that allows makers to be incredibly obscure, follow their own strange and otherwise hard to understand impulses, and bring watches to market that simply wouldn’t exist without that individual jolt of creativity. Ianos is a great example. This is a brand that exists to explore Greek diving culture (which has a rich history) and has built a design language around traditionally Greek motifs that simply don’t exist elsewhere in watchmaking. It doesn’t really get more niche than that.  Their latest watch, the Amfivios, comes on the heels of an Ianos that couldn’t be purchased by a normal civilian enthusiast. The OYK, introduced last year, was the by the brand’s account the first Greek-designed watch ever commissioned for a military unit. The watch was made in small numbers for active members of the Underwater Demolition Command unit, and presented to that unit by Greece’s Prime Minister. It was an important moment for the brand, and naturally when word spread of the OYK’s existence, Ianos loyalists and other collectors began to request a version of the watch they could own themselves.  The new Amfivios, like the Oyk, is built on the same platform as the Dytis, which we covered here. The Dytis is really an exercise in style and design, though, whereas the Amfivios is more of a...

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Business News: Gallet’s Return Heralds Renewed Battle For Mid-Tier Priced Watch Segment Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Sep 29, 2026

Business News: Gallet’s Return Heralds Renewed Battle For Mid-Tier Priced Watch Segment

Backed by Breitling's House of Brands group, Gallet's return was hotly anticipated and closely scrutinized. Priced between $2,900 for a three-hand Flying Officer model with date and about $6,700 for the vintage-inspired 'Classics' models, replete with Breitling B09 hand-wound calibers, the revived brand's pricing at Breitling boutiques is certainly aggressive.  Gallet's rebirth and price-category decision mark the most high-profile and ambitious attempt by the Swiss watch industry to reclaim a space it once owned but has largely ceded in recent years to so-called 'boutique' or micro-brands that have filled the gap left by traditional Swiss brands moving upscale.Over the past decade, brands have climbed the value-category ladder even higher, making fewer watches at higher prices. The so-called mid-tier premium—or luxury watches with an MSRP between $2,000 and $5,000—was once dominated by Swiss brands from Omega to Breitling to TAG Heuer and Jaeger-LeCoultre. And while TAG Heuer still produces plenty of watches in the category, including the solar-powered quartz Formula 1, much of its development and marketing resources have been focused on new pricier versions of classic chronographs housed in titanium or other lightweight materials including the highly innovative, but eye-wateringly expensive, Monaco 'Evergraph' retailing at more than $28,000. Several of the new Gallet watches are available on a steel bracelet that is the same used on some Breitling models. Photo Cre...

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Guitarist Josh Smith Is Not A Purist; He’s An Open-Minded Musician AND Watch Fan Fratello
Sep 28, 2026

Guitarist Josh Smith Is Not A Purist; He’s An Open-Minded Musician AND Watch Fan

You might want to know who Josh Smith is. I mean, guitar players don’t often headline a Fratello story. Guitarist Josh Smith was born on October 7th, 1979, in Middletown, Connecticut, and is an American blues-rock guitarist, vocalist, songwriter, and producer whose playing sits comfortably at the intersection of blues, jazz, and rock. He received […] Visit Guitarist Josh Smith Is Not A Purist; He’s An Open-Minded Musician AND Watch Fan to read the full article.

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Value Proposition - Formex Takes its Field Watch to the Air with the New AirField Titanium Pilot’s Watch Monochrome
Formex Takes Sep 24, 2026

Value Proposition - Formex Takes its Field Watch to the Air with the New AirField Titanium Pilot’s Watch

In 2022, Formex launched the Field Automatic, a 41mm titanium field watch developed with the brand’s signature focus on practical engineering. The series was refined in 2025 with the Field Automatic Gen 2, boasting a slimmer 40mm case, a reworked two-part dial and a more compact overall profile. Now, Formex takes that same platform in […]

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Celebrating a New Home for Watch Enthusiasts in Eastern Montana with Citizen Watch America and Riddle’s Jewelers Worn & Wound
Accutron Frédérique Constant Sep 24, 2026

Celebrating a New Home for Watch Enthusiasts in Eastern Montana with Citizen Watch America and Riddle’s Jewelers

Last week, Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America headed west to Billings, Montana, for an evening of watches, conversation, and a little bit of Windup Watch Fair previewing at Riddle’s Jewelry’s Shiloh location.  Following our enthusiast night in Salt Lake, the Billings event was another chance to bring the Windup experience to a community that doesn’t always get the opportunity to see this kind of collection of watches in person. But more than anything, the evening was about establishing Riddle’s Jewelers as a welcoming home for watch enthusiasts in Eastern Montana—and kicking off what we hope becomes a new tradition of getting together, talking watches, and, naturally, buying a few new timepieces along the way. The evening welcomed local enthusiasts, longtime collectors, curious newcomers, and Riddle’s clientele, all with one thing in common: an appreciation for a good watch and an excuse to talk about them. With food and drinks on hand, the evening had the easygoing feel we love about enthusiast gatherings. Watches came off wrists, new ones went on, and conversations bounced from movements and materials to personal favorites and the watches everyone had been quietly keeping an eye on. Of course, there was plenty to get excited about on the watch front. The collection included standout pieces from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Frédérique Constant, and Alpina, including several watches that aren’t exactly easy to find sitting in a display case. And our new ...

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Fratello Talks: If We Could Only Keep One Watch From Our Collection Fratello
Sep 24, 2026

Fratello Talks: If We Could Only Keep One Watch From Our Collection

What if you had to choose just one watch from your entire collection and let everything else go? No backups, no rotation, and no keeping that one watch you rarely wear “just in case.” In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Daan take on that particularly difficult hypothetical. The interesting part is that […] Visit Fratello Talks: If We Could Only Keep One Watch From Our Collection to read the full article.

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Six of the Most Obscure Watch and Car Tie-Ins You’ve Likely Never Heard Of Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Sep 23, 2026

Six of the Most Obscure Watch and Car Tie-Ins You’ve Likely Never Heard Of

In terms of analog intricacy and an unyielding enthusiasm for the vintage and enduring, watches and the automotive realm are a natural A-to-B: it should come as no surprise that the Venn diagram of watch nerds and automotive nerds is eerily close to a circle.  Yet, there’s more to the world of branded cross-promotion than, say, TAG Heuer and Porsche. Some of the most off-the-beaten-path collaborations are worthy of deep dives, and the six examples highlighted here (including many from Heuer!) are collectible and worthy of appreciation by those who know. Because there’s only so much that can be represented by Steve McQueen, in that white racing suit, giving the British equivalent of the middle finger. Thankfully, the world of mechanical fascination runs so much deeper than that.  IWC Mark XII x Saab “Born from Jets” was the advertising slogan of the now-defunct Saab for the last 20 or so years of its life, and while there was a distinct difference between Saab AG the defense contractor and the General Motors-owned division, it made for some really, really cool television ads. IWC, who built its reputation on pilot’s watches, lent its flagship Mark Series to a Saab tie-in in 1997: if you put down the deposit for a limited-edition 900 Mellow Yellow Cabrio, you were awarded one of these Mark XIIs, each one customized with a yellow leather strap and “Saab Automatic” on the dial instead of the usual “Mark XII Automatic.” Today, if you can find one, they go fo...

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Héron Introduces the Continental, a New Vintage Inspired “Go Anywhere, Do Anything” Watch Worn & Wound
Albishorn Sep 23, 2026

Héron Introduces the Continental, a New Vintage Inspired “Go Anywhere, Do Anything” Watch

Héron, the Montreal-based microbrand that had a legitimate hit on its hands with the release of the Mirabel GMT last year, is back with their take on the classic “go anywhere, do anything” sports watch, met with the brand’s typically refined design codes. Héron exists at a time when the straight up vintage inspired watches that dominated the scene a decade ago are fading in popularity, but they remain distinct and relevant for putting a truly personal and distinctive spin on the genre. These are not recreations of well known vintage references, but seem to exist in that type of “alternate reality” space imagined by brands like Serica, Albishorn, and others. There’s just a little extra charm to these watches that sets them apart, and make them feel like they aren’t part of a playbook.  The new Héron Continental is, according to the brand, inspired by watches worn “during the great age of exploration.” They want us to think of early transcontinental flights, mountaineering expeditions, and important midcentury scientific breakthroughs. This, of course, is not new ground for watch brands. Many that existed during this age of exploration remind us of it on a regular basis, and newer brands do their best to conjure. To Héron’s credit, they make their inspiration explicit in their press materials, citing watches like the Rolex Explorer, Universal Geneve Polerouter, and Longines Conquest as touchpoints. But the Continental is its own thing, borrowing cert...

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Hands On: Blancpain Lady B SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre cal 101 which Sep 23, 2026

Hands On: Blancpain Lady B

The charming and compact Lady B extends Blancpain’s collection of elegant ladies watches while upholding the brand’s longstanding commitment to mechanical calibres. At just 19 mm in size and almost spherical in form, the Lady B contains an upmarket automatic movement that transcends the quartz-powered norms for this segment of watchmaking. Initial thoughts The Lady B is the spiritual successor to the Ladybird Bullet, which introduced the world’s smallest round mechanical movement when it debuted 70 years ago under the leadership of Betty Fiechter, the first woman to lead a major Swiss watch brand. The “round” qualifier is important because the smallest mechanical movement — then, as now — was the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 101, which is still in production but in extremely limited numbers, and reserved for high jewellery collections. The Lady B (left) with the original Ladybird Bullet from 1956 The Lady B is larger than the vintage Bullet, but at just 19 mm it’s still small enough that the size is the main point of intrigue. The watch is almost spherical being 13 mm thick, but rather than feeling too thick this aspect gives the watch a charming bead-like feel similar to the original Bullet. The spherical feel is completed by the absence of conventional lugs; the Lady B instead features a pass-through channel for a selection of interchangeable straps. This hypothetically allows multiple Lady B’s to be “stacked” on the same strap for a jewellery-like look, b...

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Review: the Christopher Ward Sealander - the Best Boring Watch Money Can Buy Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Sealander – Sep 21, 2026

Review: the Christopher Ward Sealander - the Best Boring Watch Money Can Buy

Christopher Ward introduced the C63 Sealander in 2021 as a go-anywhere, do-anything watch. It was meant to be the brand’s contemporary, bread-and-butter line: a less specialized variation of the C60 Trident diver that had long been its core, while avoiding vintage pastiche. The Sealander was simple, easy to digest, and versatile. It was also, somewhat, a return to Christopher Ward’s original bang-for-your-buck ethos. When the C63 launched with a $695 three-hand automatic, it was a statement about the brand’s values, not just value. The GMT, meanwhile, started at $950 on a strap. Both offered a lot of Swiss-made mechanical watch for the money. the Sealander in 2021 Fast-forward five years, and I don’t know if any watch brand has changed quite as much as Christopher Ward. The Bel Canto arrived in 2022 and totally reframed how the company was perceived. The Twelve followed in 2023 and raised the standard of its core watches. Then came the Twelve X, which put its in-house movements and finishing capability in the spotlight, and finally the Loco, which proved the Bel Canto was not a one-off. Christopher Ward was redefining what value could mean in the context of avant-garde independent watches. As such, the brand that launched the C63 in 2021 is very different from the one releasing its replacement in 2026. It is bigger, has a much larger customer base, enjoys far greater awareness, and, frankly, has a better reputation. The new Sealander reflects that transformation, r...

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Both Online And Offline: The New H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid Is The Digital Watch For Enthusiasts Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Off-Grid Sep 21, 2026

Both Online And Offline: The New H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid Is The Digital Watch For Enthusiasts

Today, H. Moser & Cie. is going digital with the new Off-Grid, a watch that takes the brand’s minimalist approach into some untapped territory. Available in two versions, the Off-Grid combines a 42.6mm PVD-treated steel case with a skeletonized dial and a digital display at 6 o’clock. One version pairs blue PVD with a Blackor […] Visit Both Online And Offline: The New H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid Is The Digital Watch For Enthusiasts to read the full article.

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Hands-On: The Apple Watch Series 12 And Ultra 4 Hodinkee
Ming from several versions back Sep 17, 2026

Hands-On: The Apple Watch Series 12 And Ultra 4

Another year, another generation of the Apple Watch. Like last year's Series 11 and Ultra 3, things have largely stayed the same. That said, there are still a few major under-the-hood updates and some new aesthetic changes, but we're still carrying over the Apple Watch's subtle tenth-anniversary redesign from a few years ago, so the familiar dimensions remain. That also holds true for the Ultra 4. Across the board, the main improvements come in a new, more powerful chip and a vastly improved health sensor equipped on the back of each watch. With iterative improvements like this in the yearly refresh cycle, this new generation offers a solid upgrade for those coming from several versions back, and less of a temptation for those fresh off last year's models. But there will always be those who avidly find every chance to upgrade to the next year's latest and greatest—Apple's got you covered with some fun additions, too. A Return To Ceramic 46mm Night Blue (left) and 42mm Pearl White (right) ceramics. To me, the most exciting news from this year's Apple Watch announcements was the return of ceramic as a case material. Titanium is cool and all, especially since all the latest titanium cases since last year have been 3D-printed, but there's something a little nerdier about an Apple Watch in ceramic. Apple introduced ceramic on the Apple Watch as early as the Series 3 in 2017. I was a happy owner of a 2019 Series 5 Apple Watch Edition in white ceramic, so my interest has natura...

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Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock Fratello
Ressence s New Type 9 Sep 17, 2026

Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock

Recently, Lex wrote an article asking, “When are watches art?” Of course, there wasn’t a clear answer, as “art” is often an ungraspable concept. However, every once in a while, Benoît Mintiens makes the dial of a Ressence watch available to an artist dear to the Belgian brand. In doing so, he tries to blur […] Visit Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock to read the full article.

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Introducing - The new Glashütte Original 70s Collection, a Reworked Take on the Integrated Sports Watch Monochrome
Glashütte Original 70s Collection Sep 16, 2026

Introducing - The new Glashütte Original 70s Collection, a Reworked Take on the Integrated Sports Watch

While Glashütte Original‘s Seventies collection has become associated with its bold, square-shaped chronographs, the German manufacture also once offered Seventies Panaroma Date models without the chronograph function. Revisiting the decade with a substantially reworked watch, the brand returns to that time-and-date simplicity and presents the new 70s collection of integrated sports watches, alongside the existing […]

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