Hodinkee
Hands-On: Tudor's Black Bay Pro Gets A Surprisingly Dramatic Facelift With An Opaline Dial
Why I sold my original Black Bay Pro and why this new dial is making me reconsider it.
Results for Glashütte Original Caliber 36
3,146 articles · 193 videos found · page 70 of 112
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Nomos and Ace Jewelers Team Up for a Rare Metro Limited Edition
Neither Ace Jewelers or Nomos Glashütte are strangers to collaborations, especially with each other: the two companies have released a total of seven collaboration models so far. To celebrate the Amsterdam boutique’s 50th anniversary, they’ve teamed up once again with the German watchmaker to create two bold and bright new references in the Metro line. Interestingly, the Metro is one of Nomos’ least-riffed on designs-meaning that they’ve done the fewest amount of novelties and collaborations using the platform as compared to other watches in their catalog. This is partly because the Metro’s designer, Mark Braun, must explicitly approve any collaboration that uses the watch as a base, highlighting the pedigree of Ace Jewelers, and the gravitas of their 50th anniversary. The most obvious punch that both new Metro models carry is right there in the name: the vibrant orange color. As a diehard San Francisco Giants fan, I’m partial to the color, but it is a daring choice-most bright colors are rare in the 2020s, where finding a car that isn’t black, white, or gray is the new needle in the haystack. The Metro, then, is actually the perfect choice for such a colorway, as its design revels in clean, postmodern design, rather than aesthetic noise. Both Orange models feature round stainless steel bezel-less cases with a crown at 3 o’clock, and a DUW 3001 automatic movement with Nomos’ proprietary swing system and up to 43 hours of power reserve visible thr...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Colourful Nomos Metro Neomatik x Ace Jewelers
Ace Jewelers and Nomos join forces again to create two special Dutch-themed pieces to celebrate the Amsterdam jeweller’s 50th anniversary, following the original Orion De Stijl Limited Edition, the Club Campus Amsterdam, the Zürich Weltzeit Amsterdam and the Tangente 38 Amsterdam. The model selected for this new series is the Metro, a family rarely singled […]
Fratello
An In-Depth Look At The New Rolex Dynapulse Escapement
Rolex surprised friend and foe with a new movement at this year’s Watches and Wonders. While that’s always a relatively big deal in our little horological sub-universe, caliber 7135 represents a particularly big milestone. Rolex developed a brand-new escapement dubbed Dynapulse. We felt it was about time we took a closer look at it. Of […] Visit An In-Depth Look At The New Rolex Dynapulse Escapement to read the full article.
Hodinkee
My Speedmaster Story: Peter Attia
In the third installment of our four-part series in partnership with Omega, an entrepreneur and medical professional shares his pre-Moon caliber 321.
Hodinkee
My Speedmaster Story: Howie Kendrick
In the second installment of our four-part series in partnership with Omega, the Washington National shares his pre-Moon caliber 321.
Hodinkee
Panerai: The Making Of A Design Icon, Part 1
In part one of our three-part series in partnership with Panerai, we look at the design heritage of one of the most original designs in watchmaking.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Xhevdet Rexhepi Minute Inerte
Two years after Xhevdet Rexhepi's original announcement, the watches are finally close to delivery – and they're one of the strongest independent releases I've seen in that time.
SJX Watches
Bovet Scales Down the Daylight-Savings World Time
Following the launch of the uber, multi-function world time last year, Bovet Fleurier continues its exploration of time zones with the Récital 30, a simpler, everyday-wear evolution on its complex predecessor. Initial thoughts The Récital 30 is more accessible both in terms of function and price, and more restrained in terms of design; overall it’s a more wearable version of the full-fledged original. The new world time caters to a different customer from last year’s Récital 28, the client who doesn’t necessarily care for lavish decorations or extreme complexity, but seeks a forward-thinking, wearable world time with some unique functionality. While the accessibility of this should be applauded – it costs almost one-tenth the Recital 28 – this does leave the impression of a watered-down creation. There is almost no lavish movement decoration visible, instead the dial fully covers the face. And the calibre only incorporates one complication, admittedly one executed in a complex manner. World time indication At its core, the Récital 30 is built on the same principles that underpin its pricier bigger brother, namely the clever roller world time system. This ingenious mechanical solution allows seamless adjustments across 25 distinct time zones, including GMT+5:30 for New Delhi, India, which is offset by an inconvenient 30 minutes. The beauty of the system is its calibration for four distinct annual periods: Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), American Summer Time...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s New Ceramic is the Same Hue as the Royal Oak 5402
“Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” was the colour code for the original Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 5402 ST of 1972, and now Audemars Piguet has translated the dark blue shade into its latest ceramic. Making its debut in three Royal Oak models, including the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic is restrained and a departure from the bright, almost electric blue of the brand’s earlier blue ceramic. Initial thoughts Ceramic is a material that lends itself well to the Royal Oak design; the brushed and polished surfaces that are the trademark Royal Oak surface finishing look good with the hardness and glossiness of ceramic. The earlier bright blue ceramic used by AP was too bright in my opinion. The new dark blue hue, on the other hand, feels just nice. The downside of an all-ceramic Royal Oak is the price. The Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph with a matching ceramic bracelet costs almost US$90,000, double the price of the steel equivalent and almost as much as the gold model. According to AP, the cost is primarily due to the difficult in finishing the ceramic – every element of the case and bracelet is brushed or polished by hand – which is true, but it’s still expensive. The most affordable model with the new ceramic only has its bezel and pushers in ceramic ” Night blue” According to AP, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (which translates as “night blue, cloud 50”) was the code for the dark blue, almost grey, in the catalogue of Stern...
Hodinkee
Seiko - Improving on a Classic
The newest Seiko 1965 Heritage Diver’s watch blends the legendary style of the original with a host of performance, aesthetic and ergonomic upgrades.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574
Panerai is the official timekeeper of the Salone del Mobile, the largest and most prestigious annual international design fair held in Milan since 1961. Panerai’s involvement with Milan Design Week is celebrated with the release of the new Lumimor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574. As a product launched in 1949 that retains many original design […]
Fratello
Retrospective: An Unexpected NOS Mimo Tuxedo Tank Find
A Mimo watch has been on my wishlist for almost a decade. Although I am on a hunt for different Mimo models, I simply couldn’t resist this tuxedo tank. With an original strap, buckle, and even the brand tag, it looks like it just left the Mimo factory. Mimo is one of the brands we […] Visit Retrospective: An Unexpected NOS Mimo Tuxedo Tank Find to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Moritz Grossmann Art Edition with Painter Max Frintrop
With Christine Hutter at the helm, Moritz Grossmann – an indie brand that since 2008 pays tribute to one of the pioneers of Glashütte’s watchmaking – has consistently showcased its prowess in crafting technically sophisticated timepieces. The brand has also impressed with exquisitely crafted dials created using time-honoured techniques. This year marks an intriguing evolution […]
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion
Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko. This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design. Initial thoughts While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal. The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original. At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement. Ten beats per second While the Tokyo Lion case design has been emplo...
Fratello
Introducing: The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof
There are always surprises at the major watch shows. This year, one of the unexpected releases was the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof, a recreation of a manual-wind ’60s watch. The size and some other touches are true to the original. The big names dominate the scene at a show like Watches and Wonders. We spend hours […] Visit Introducing: The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the Oyster Perpetual in Matte Pastel Colours
Rolex had a little bit of everything at Watches & Wonders 2025, from the top-of-the-line GMT-Master II to the unexpected, retro-style Settimo bracelet for the Perpetual 1908. But the most accessible offerings are the entry-level Oyster Perpetual 28, 36, and 41 in pastel shades of lavender, beige, and pistachio – all in a matte finish in a first for the current Rolex line-up. Past versions of the Oyster Perpetual have featured dials with surfaces that were either glossy lacquered or metallic brushed, making the new iterations subtly distinct. The 28 mm model with a lavender dial Initial thoughts Like the left-handed GMT-Master II also launched at W&W;, the Oyster Perpetual trio are incremental improvements to existing models, but done well and priced reasonably (even if availability will be challenging). The matte dials in pastel colours give the Oyster Perpetual a more modern feel, which is a notable for a model that is several decades old and largely unchanged in terms of style. As is the norm at Rolex, a new feature – the matte finish in this case – is being released on a limited basis to start with, but I expect matte-finish dials to be found in more models over time. 41 mm with a pistachio green dial Being the entry-level model for Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual is priced modestly, with the most expensive model being the largest, 41 mm version priced at US$6,650. It represents solid value, though obtaining one, at least initial, will be difficult as these will be bes...
Monochrome
First Look – The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Tentagraph SLGC007
Grand Seiko got into the spotlight in 2023 with the launch of its first-ever mechanical chronograph, the Evolution 9 Tentagraph SLGC001, filling the gap in the brand’s 60-year legacy of precision watchmaking – surprisingly, it was missing one until recently. For 2025, Grand Seiko introduces the Tentagraph SLGC007 – a near-identical successor to the original, […]
Monochrome
First Look – The More Compact Parmigiani Tonda PF Chronograph No-Date 40mm Mineral Blue
Three years ago, Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled its sophisticated Tonda PF luxury sports watch collection. Still bearing traits from the original Tonda designed by Michel Parmigiani, the collection debuted with four models, including the 42mm Tonda PF Chronograph. The new Tonda PF Chronograph, presented during Watches & Wonders 2025, comes in a more compact 40mm case […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323
Grand Seiko introduced a wide variety of novelties at Watches and Wonders this year. The new U.F.A. models are, without a doubt, the most important ones. However, a humble highlight that also stands out for us is the new Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323. This new addition to the Heritage collection combines a modestly sized 36.5mm 44GS-style […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 to read the full article.
![[VIDEO] The Tudor Goes Deep with Pelagos Ultra](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/04/TUDOR_PELAGOS_ULTRA_1.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] The Tudor Goes Deep with Pelagos Ultra
Tudor’s most technical dive range receives its most technical entry yet. Over the last few years, we’ve seen the Pelagos expand quite dramatically, starting with the introduction of the FXD series, which has ranged from military-spec via the M.N. to carbon fiber chronographs, to a GMT, to standard varieties, as well as the smaller-wrist-compatible Pelagos 39. For 2025, however, we’re seeing a return or a close relative to the original Pelagos, with a 1000m variant called the Pelagos Ultra. At double the water resistance of the original, 1000m is undoubtedly the headline of the Ultra, but there are many subtle changes to the design that give this new watch its own personality. First, the case is a touch larger at 43mm in diameter (vs 42mm for the original), 52mm lug-to-lug (my measure), and 14.8mm thick. While these dimensions sound imposing, they were more tolerable than expected on the wrist, largely because of the lightweight grade 2 titanium construction. The spacing between the dial and the crystal was reduced to keep the case relatively thin, or at least not thicker than the original. As such, the rehaut was redesigned to be flat and a touch wider. While I am a bit remiss to see the steeply angled rehaut with cutouts of the original get cut, as I found it a particularly enjoyable design that added a contemporary and aggressive edge to the watch, the new version is less distracting and allows for more dial space. In turn, the applied hour markers and hands are la...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Surprising New 34mm Diameter of the A. Lange & Söhne 1815
The name of A. Lange & Söhne‘s 1815 watch family refers to the year Ferdinand Adolph Lange was born, the founder of precision watchmaking in Glashütte, Germany. Inspired by F.A. Lange’s pocket watches, all 1815 models are hand-wound and feature classical details like the peripheral railway-track minutes scale. One of the most traditional, understated yet […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Purple Dial of the Grand Seiko 44GS SBGW323 ‘Kiri’
What’s particularly reassuring about Grand Seiko’s more compact watches is that they don’t cut corners. When Grand Seiko introduced its 44GS reference in a 36.5mm case, the characteristics of its 1967 ancestor, the model that cemented the tenets of the “Grammar of Design”, were dutifully respected. Everything admired about Grand Seiko was present but in […]
Fratello
A Squadron Of New IWC Pilot’s Watches Touches Down At Watches And Wonders
There’s more than new Ingenieurs to see at IWC’s booth at Watches and Wonders 2025. Yes, there’s also a quintet of new IWC pilot’s watches. First up are three new pilot’s chronographs linked to Apple Original Films’ upcoming movie F1, which is set to release worldwide this summer. There’s also more complicated stuff - specifically, […] Visit A Squadron Of New IWC Pilot’s Watches Touches Down At Watches And Wonders to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Spring Is In Bloom With The Grand Seiko's New SBGW323 Kiri
The Japanese watchmaker celebrates the Kiri flower with a stunning purple Mt. Iwate dial in this elegant 36.5mm watch.
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Refreshes the Carrera Day-Date and Adds a GMT
Reinventing the wheel can be overrated-sometimes, expanding on an already-beloved design is the best way to drum up excitement. The original Heuer Carrera-released in 1963 as Jack Heuer’s horological love letter to the 1950s Carrera Panamericana Road Race held in Mexico-would develop as a symbol of motorsports success over the following decades, frequently gifted to victorious drivers at huge events. As the current official timekeeper of Formula 1, the Swiss company is continuing that legacy of motorsports prowess with new watches in the Carrera Day-Date collection, keeping the elements that have made the watch an icon, while pushing the design ever forward. With six new models and ample features, the Day-Date collection can seem as daunting as an F1 circuit at first. Five of the models, though, are mechanically identical, with differences ranging from materials to color schemes-these are the “regular” Day-Date pieces, while the Date Twin-Time represents a distinct complication. First, let’s take a look at the new Day-Date references. Each Day-Date features a fine-brushed and polished steel 41mm case with a steel polished crown at 3 o’clock, a beveled and domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment, and a steel screw-down case back that touts a 100m water resistance. A Calibre TH31-02 automatic movement pulses inside each Day-Date, and a day-date window sits at the 3:00 position. White Super-LumiNova additionally coats the hour and mi...
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer
For many years, the only two Nomos models that offered traveler-oriented functions were the Zurich Weltzeit (a.k.a Zurich Worldtimer) and the Tangomat GMT, which had airport codes to denote the 24 time zones. This year at Watches and Wonders, the Glashütte-based brand presents a new movement to power its Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer series, which […]
Monochrome
First Look – The New Frozen Editions of the H. Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic
The Streamliner collection was introduced by H. Moser & Cie in 2020 and was an overnight success. Its groovy integrated cushion design was fresh, original and brilliantly executed. Since its inception, we’ve seen a wide range of time-only, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and chronograph models, and even several fascinating skeletonised iterations. Moser also loves to play […]
Fratello
IWC Presents A Plethora Of New Ingenieur Watches In Black Ceramic, 5N Gold, And Steel - Including A Perpetual Calendar
Two years ago, IWC introduced the new iteration of the Ingenieur as a capsule collection. Three steel and one Grade 5 titanium creation debuted, resembling the 1976 Ingenieur SL ref. 1832, an original Gérald Genta design. A blue-dial version was missing from the original lineup, but it came eventually. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, […] Visit IWC Presents A Plethora Of New Ingenieur Watches In Black Ceramic, 5N Gold, And Steel - Including A Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar
The brand celebrates it's 270th anniversary with a brand-new caliber, limited to 127 pieces.