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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)

Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.
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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Brew Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Jan 29, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Brew

Welcome to episode 34 of A Week in Watches, where we’ve got managing editor Blake Buettner jumping back in to discuss a handful of new releases, and one important survey. We’re kicking things off with the biggest news of the week that’s focused on something very small from Omega, and that is their new Spirate Balance, which we introduce on the site right here, and react to in real time right here. We still not sure how it’s pronounced but the technology is impressive! The watch its packed in also makes quite the statement, and we’d love to hear your thoughts on this one. That Omega wasn’t the only big news this week, though. Brew dropped a stunning gold Metric on us that works way better than it has any business doing. Is this the watch that gets us into gold? Likely. Next up are a couple releases from the UK, with the 36mm Three Hander collection of watches from Farer, and new C65 Dune watches from Christopher Ward. Lots of unique personality to find in these watches, from big colorful dials, to svelte shapely cases. Finally, we’ve got a watch and wrist size survey from Mark Cho of NYC’s The Armoury. Let your voice be heard by taking the survey found right here. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Br...

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HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is the brand’s most accurate watch yet Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Super Racing Jan 29, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is the brand’s most accurate watch yet

Rolex and Omega are the Coke and Pepsi of the watch industry. As two of the biggest brands in the world, they are constantly pitted up against one another head to head. Since the brand’s inception, Rolex has been known for incremental progress and updates. Omega, on the other hand, has taken more risks and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is the brand’s most accurate watch yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Greubel Forsey Balancier S2: 20 Years In The Making - Reprise Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Balancier S2 20 Years Jan 29, 2023

Greubel Forsey Balancier S2: 20 Years In The Making - Reprise

Including established shapes, mechanics, and components within a watch that bucks the norm is a great way to gently pull people along as a watch brand goes in a new direction. Greubel Forsey has subtly mastered this technique, and the new Balancier S2 is the awesomely unique result. The Balancier S2 has the warmth of classic Greubel Forsey intermingled with the crisp future of the brand.

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HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Jan 28, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup

It’s been a good couple of years for Zenith (waiting lists and all), and they’re off to a blazing start for 2023 with the release of the new Defy Skyline Skeleton at LVMH Watch Week in Singapore. This integrated model has been a popular pick since it was introduced, and the new version features some … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: The IWC EasX-CHANGE straps refresh old favourites with a sporty touch Time+Tide
IWC EasX-CHANGE straps refresh old Jan 27, 2023

VIDEO: The IWC EasX-CHANGE straps refresh old favourites with a sporty touch

As the popularity of rubber straps becomes ever more apparent, and to aid in providing the best personal touch to their wearer’s watches, IWC is introducing a slew of options for the members of their Pilot’s range. Over the last 18 months the brand has updated the water resistance of their core Pilots range to … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC EasX-CHANGE straps refresh old favourites with a sporty touch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Omega Introduces the Spirate Hairspring in the Speedmaster Super Racing SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Jan 27, 2023

Omega Introduces the Spirate Hairspring in the Speedmaster Super Racing

Having teased about a new innovation on social media for several weeks, specifically a “tiny device” that would be a game-changer for the Speedmaster, Omega has finally revealed the Speedmaster Super Racing. But the star of the show is not the watch but actually the technology in the all-new silicon hairspring within the latest Speedmaster. Known as Spirate, a portmanteau of “silicon” and “rate”, the new hairspring has a proprietary form that allows a watchmaker to vary the tension along its length, theoretically enabling fine adjustment of up to a tenth of a second. The result is a watch certified to have a daily rate of 0/+2 seconds, the most stringent timekeeping criteria amongst Omega watches.  Initial thoughts  While it is a given that Omega debuts a new Speedmaster every year, several of them at a go in fact, the revolutionary innovation in the hairspring was unexpected (though anyone who was trawling the Swiss patent registry would have gotten some hints). The patented Spirate hairspring The technical innovation behind Spirate is unquestionable, though the benefit to the wearer is probably less than the advantage it brings Omega in terms of streamlining regulation during production and assembly. And when Omega starts equipping its offerings with Spirate on a large scale, it will be an achievement from the perspective of industrial production.   As for the Speedmaster Super Racing itself, well, the watch is less than spectacular. Visually it’s sim...

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INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III Time+Tide
Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III Jan 27, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III

The Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III is released 10 years after the original version. The Face-2-Face III ditches the oval shape for a round one. It’s limited to 999 pieces. Hamilton definitely aren’t the first brand to come to mind when the topic of reversible watches comes up. However, as more independent brands tackle the flipping … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Talking with Guillaume Laidet and Romaric André about the Vulcain x Seconde Seconde x Revolution Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute” Revolution
Nivada Grenchen Excelsior Park Jan 26, 2023

Talking with Guillaume Laidet and Romaric André about the Vulcain x Seconde Seconde x Revolution Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute”

Our second collaboration with Guillaume Laidet, celebrated revivalist of forgotten brands Nivada Grenchen, Excelsior Park and Vulcain, comes in the form of the Vulcain Cricket, the first alarm wristwatch to garner widespread acclaim. Since our last collaboration on the fully blacked-out Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster “No Barracuda”, we’ve gone a step further with our tongue-in-cheek approach […]

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Omega’s New Speedmaster Super Racing Has a Brand New Regulating System Allowing for Unheard of Accuracy Worn & Wound
Omega s New Speedmaster Super Jan 26, 2023

Omega’s New Speedmaster Super Racing Has a Brand New Regulating System Allowing for Unheard of Accuracy

Today, Omega has unveiled a new Speedmaster that their social media team has been teasing aggressively for the past few weeks. They promised a “tiny device” delivering a “massive change,” and to that end the announcement today is really more about mechanics than a new watch. There is a new watch, of course, but to the extent that today’s news excites you, it will almost certainly be a result of a very small component that Omega has completely rethought.  The Speedmaster Super Racing is the first timepiece from Omega to feature what they’re calling “Spirate” technology. Spirate is essentially a new method of movement regulation by way of a small knob connected to the balance that allows a watchmaker to adjust the rate in increments down to the tenth of a second. Omega claims that the end result is a movement that’s accurate to within 0/+2 seconds per day. Again, this is a mechanical movement that is, yes, METAS certified to be within two seconds per day. That’s Spring Drive level accuracy, without the benefit of quartz derived regulation. Assuming Spirate works as advertised (there’s no reason not to assume that given Omega’s proficiency in making highly accurate movements at a large scale) this is an enormously impressive accomplishment.  How does it work, exactly? Omega had to develop an entirely new silicon balance spring that can be adjusted for stiffness via a mechanism connected to the balance bridge (easily visible through the sapphire caseb...

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Christopher Ward’s C65 Line Gets a Sandy Update with the Dune Series Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward s C65 Line Gets Jan 26, 2023

Christopher Ward’s C65 Line Gets a Sandy Update with the Dune Series

For the last few months, Christopher Ward has received an unprecedented amount of attention from watch media and the enthusiast public for the release of the Bel Canto, a genuine industry phenomenon that has won over collectors of all stripes. The release was honestly timed just about perfectly, allowing the brand to get it into the hands of fans just ahead of the holiday shopping season and all of the listmaking that tends to happen at the end of the year, where the Bel Canto figured prominently. Supplemental releases in additional colorways have since sold out, and it appears that CW is ready to ride the Bel Canto wave throughout 2023 as the chiming watch is delivered to anxiously awaiting enthusiasts. But the first non Bel Canto related release of the year is something of a return to Christopher Ward’s tool watch roots. No chiming here, and no exposed mechanisms on the dial, showing that Christopher Ward is not moving directly into the haute horlogery sphere just yet.  The new C65 Dune series takes the popular C65 sports watch format into a desert inspired aesthetic. The trio of watches is named after Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe, and each watch makes use of tan and beige tones to underline a sandy theme. These are not hardcore tool watches in the traditional sense, though. They make use of Christopher Ward’s excellent “Light-Catcher” case finishing, which highlights unexpected bevels and undercuts in the complex case geometry and adds just a ...

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HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & A3690 Boutique Edition Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & Jan 26, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & A3690 Boutique Edition

The idea of a re-edition within the watch market is nothing new. Many brands have woken up to the huge demand for revivals, recreations, or remixes of their lauded vintage references. But when these designs date to the specialist era of watchmaking, where multiple brands turned to the same dial, case, and movement manufacturers, there … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & A3690 Boutique Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hublot Jan 25, 2023

We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites

The new releases from LVMH Watch Week came to New York City last week, and of course the Worn & Wound team was there to check them out. It was the first big batch of new releases in 2023, and Bulgari, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith all brought a variety of watches to display. Here are initial impressions from Blake Buettner, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan. Kat Shoulders  My favorite watch from the LVMH Preview was the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. There were no doubt higher end horology pieces at the preview, but as far as watches I’d be ready to buy on the spot, this one won the day for me. I’ve been known amongst the Worn and Wound crew to not be a huge titanium lover, and quite honestly, I’m perfectly OK with that. The metal typically isn’t my favorite to wear due to the lighter feel. However, the grade 2 titanium that TAG uses felt incredibly nice in person and high quality. Maybe it was the sand blasted finishing as well, but something just really struck me about this particular Aquaracer. The finishing, the feel, the bezel action…it all just comes together perfectly in my opinion. The older I get, the more comfortable I am in this hobby saying that quartz is actually really convenient. Add the ability to charge the movement via solar power, and you have a really great tool watch you literally never have to worry about. The grayed out Aquaracer shutter dial that we’ve become familiar with along with the ice blue hands and text is eye-catc...

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Mark Cho’s Survey of Watch Size Preference and Our Own Wrist Size Perceptions is Back Worn & Wound
Jan 25, 2023

Mark Cho’s Survey of Watch Size Preference and Our Own Wrist Size Perceptions is Back

Data nerds, rejoice: Mark Cho’s watch size survey is back. Back in 2019, watch collector and menswear retailer Mark Cho conducted his first watch size survey in an attempt to put some data behind one of the most peculiar yet foundational facets of watch collecting (we wrote about that survey here). The questions in Mark’s survey go beyond simple preferences, but get to how we view our own wrist size. Is it smaller or larger than average? And what effect does that have on the watches we choose to buy? Mark even asks about preferences for a potential “secondary watch” (a sports watch for the weekend, for example) to put an even finer point on the way we feel about watch size.  When Mark first conducted the survey, he found that a significant percentage of respondents viewed their wrist as smaller than average, which could theoretically have been a result of the tail end of the Big Watch era making us all think our wrists were too small to comfortably handle some of the most popular watches of the time. In the relatively short period that’s passed since that first survey, though, smaller watches (not small watches) have fully come back into fashion, so it will be interesting to see if perceptions change along with preferences. Regardless, there’s sure to be a ton of data, and it will be interesting to comb through it once the survey is complete.  If you’re interested in Mark’s findings from that first survey, be sure to check out his lecture for the Horologi...

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Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII Worn & Wound
Sinn Damasko UTS Archimede Jan 25, 2023

Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII

Dievas is a cult microbrand even to those who are fans of cult microbrands. Founded in 2006, they are one of the OG independent tool watch brands. Following in the footsteps of Sinn, Damasko, UTS, Archimede, and others, Dievas’s focus is on tactical, modern, overbuilt, high-spec sports watches that are made in Germany. Still a rare origin of manufacture, Germany conjures a notion of precision, quality, and value that perhaps even surpasses Switzerland (especially in value). This is particularly different as Dievas was created by the team behind Gnomon Watches, a Singaporean retailer. At the very end of 2022, Dievas announced a new model, the Maya MKIII, after several years of being relatively dormant (models were for sale via Gnomon, but no new launches). As the name suggests, the new watch is the third iteration of the brand’s popular, tactical dive watch, the Maya. Redesigned from the ground up, the MKIII is smaller, sleeker, and more affordable, while maintaining some very impressive specs and features. Priced at $1,090 on a strap and $1,240 on a bracelet, the German-made Maya MKIII is available in black, blue, and Sealab green. The latter, featured in this review, is not only different in color but in dial and bezel insert design as well, making it an outlier in the collection. $1090 Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII Case Matte Stainless Steel w/ Clear DLC Movement Sellita SW-200 Dial Metallic Green Sandwich Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Bracelet Water Resistance ...

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JLC launches new program “The Collectibles” where clients can buy certified and restored vintage pieces Time+Tide
JLC launches new program “The Jan 25, 2023

JLC launches new program “The Collectibles” where clients can buy certified and restored vintage pieces

“The Collectibles” program offers a curated collection of historic JLC models. The program is ongoing, starting off with an initial capsule collection of 12 timepieces. Each watch is vetted by JLC’s experts, and fully serviced and restored by their in-house restoration workshop. While there is much to enjoy about modern watchmaking, it is no secret there is a … ContinuedThe post JLC launches new program “The Collectibles” where clients can buy certified and restored vintage pieces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Exhibition: Seiko Revives the “Power Design Project” SJX Watches
Seiko Revives Jan 25, 2023

Exhibition: Seiko Revives the “Power Design Project”

First conceived over two decades ago, Power Design Project was an exercise in avant-garde watch design. After a 14-year hiatus, it has returned with Rebirth, an exhibition that will run until February 19, 2023, in Tokyo’s trendy Harajuku district. An annual affair centred on a specific theme each year, the original Power Design Project was an experimental programme spearheaded by independent industrial designer Naoto Fukasawa. Intended to inject new energy and ideas into the Seiko’s offerings, the original project invited designers, both in-house and external, to reimagine the concept of timekeeping. The project gave birth to unorthodox timepieces, including one that was a lightbulb with the filament forming the hands. The project has been revived with a showcase of seven timepieces, each originally an iconic brand design that has been reimagined for today – hence the exhibition theme, “rebirth”. By exploring the possibilities of a watch in both design, purpose, and function, Seiko is perhaps giving us a peek into the future of its watchmaking in the decades to come. For instance, Seiko’s famous “tuna” dive watch has been transformed into a watch for children. Presented in three colourways, blue, pink, and yellow, the “tuna” for kids is scaled down and made into robust watch for active children, echoing the purpose of the deep sea-diving original. “Shikakuro”, a modern take on the “Monaco” chronograph from 1971 “Radiant Time” is a King S...

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Zenith Introduces the Defy Revival A3691 SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 25, 2023

Zenith Introduces the Defy Revival A3691

Last year, Zenith debuted the Defy Revival A3642 – a vintage-remake sports watch with an octagonal case and tetradecagonal bezel – to the delight of enthusiasts who were excited to see the return of this distinctive design. The only problem was the fact that it was limited to 250 pieces. Now the brand has introduced its regular-production version with the Defy Revival A3691 which has a ruby-red dial. Identical to the limited edition in form and dimension, the A3691 is a sturdy three-hander with a faithful vintage feel at an attractive price point. Initial thoughts Finally the Defy Revival is in regular production. With its vintage proportions and affordability, the watch was on my wish list as an alternative to mainstream sports watches, so I hope last year’s limited edition wasn’t a one-off. Seeing it make a comeback is a good thing, and the red dial certainly makes it more striking.  While some may argue – with good reason – that this is merely a rehash of the original in a different colour. It is, but the A3691 is still a good product in terms of price-performance ratio. At US$6,900, the A3691 is well priced relative to the competition, both from other brands and even Zenith itself. Its modern equivalent, the Defy Skyline, costs about 20% more, albeit with a more refined case and bracelet. For anyone who wants a sports watch with a retro flavour and in-house movement that stands apart from mainstream offerings, the A3691 is a good contender. Last year’s...

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Hands-On with the Isotope Old Radium Bronze Tobacco Worn & Wound
Isotope Old Radium Bronze Tobacco Jan 24, 2023

Hands-On with the Isotope Old Radium Bronze Tobacco

Isotope is a British watch brand that we’ve covered fairly extensively on Worn & Wound. They take a unique approach to watch design that incorporates a signature shape (the lacrima, resembling a teardrop) and frequently makes use of vibrant color. Their range of HydriumX divers are a lot of fun and have proven to be fan favorites, and I reviewed their GMT back in March of 2021. The brand lives and dies by their playful designs: some resonate strongly, but others simply may not strike a chord. That’s perfectly OK, though. It’s the cost of doing things your own way, and a natural side effect of operating within a design language that doesn’t rely too much on watch historical design tropes. So I was curious to check out one of their latest releases, the Old Radium Bronze Tobacco. The Old Radium line is Isotope’s take on a pilot’s watch, a genre that is well understood in the broader consciousness of watch collectors, and notably challenging to iterate on. Many brands issue pilot’s watches that effectively look the same, and only the most hardcore connoisseurs will pick out the seemingly smallest differences in dial layout, case shape, and so forth. Isotope’s approach with the Old Radium is actually quite similar to what they’re doing with dive watches via the HydriumX line: taking the frame of something common, and filling it with something whimsical.  $1111 Hands-On with the Isotope Old Radium Bronze Tobacco Case Bronze Movement Landeron Automatic Dial Bro...

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The Brew Metric Gets A Fabulous Gold Makeover Worn & Wound
Brew Metric Gets Jan 24, 2023

The Brew Metric Gets A Fabulous Gold Makeover

It’s safe to say that the Metric from our friends at Brew has struck a certain chord since its release in mid 2021. The watch is a perfect expression of the brand’s retro-modern design forward sensibilities, and it happens to be utterly fantastic on the wrist. We’ve seen a few other colorways pop up since its introduction, and at less than $500, supply can never never seem to keep up with demand. Today, the Brew Metric welcomes its chicest colorway to date: gold. The Metric Gold touts a full gold plated case and bracelet with a striking black dial beset with gold hands and markers.  The Brew Metric Gold retains the 36mm x 41.5mm case dimensions (10.75mm in thickness) that we loved in the earlier variants, and embraces a clean pure gold and black colorway that works shockingly well in this design, which also did pretty well in its color-forward sporty guise. The dial design has been altered slightly, welcoming Arabic numerals in the rehaut marking each 5 minute segment. Gone is the subtle callout between the 25 and 35 second mark, which was a nod to the ideal brewing time for an espresso shot. Inside, Brew is using the hybrid vk68 meca-quartz chronograph, with a running seconds hand at 6 o’clock, and a minute totalizer at 9 o’clock. The TV shaped dial section is completely covered with a sapphire crystal, which is a welcome touch in this price range. A polished bevel along the side of the case meets the integrated(ish) flat link bracelet creating something of a s...

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Interview: Frédéric Arnault, Chief Executive of TAG Heuer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Appointed chief executive Jan 24, 2023

Interview: Frédéric Arnault, Chief Executive of TAG Heuer

Appointed chief executive of TAG Heuer in 2020, Frédéric Arnault is often described as a son of Bernard Arnault, now the world’s richest man thanks to his controlling stake in LVMH. But the younger Arnault, who was just 25 when he took the job, is notable amongst watch industry bosses for his background. In contrast to the marketing or sales background that characterise most executives in the business, Mr Arnault has a degree in computational and applied mathematics from École Polytechnique, a French science and technology university with a long list of accomplished alumni, including Nobel laureates, presidents, and captains of industry (including the senior Arnault). Mr Arnault has been in the top job for two years, while it typically takes three to five years to develop an all new watch and even longer for a movement. As a result, his vision for TAG Heuer has yet to fully materialise in its products, but hints of his outsider’s perspective and inclination towards technology are already apparent. This has manifested itself in TAG Heuer’s Connected smartwatch and its solar-powered dive watch, but more notably in its flagship mechanical offering, the Carrera Plasma, an unorthodox jewelled chronograph that makes liberal use of synthetic diamonds. Synthetic diamonds grown to fit perfectly into the case of the Plasma, which is made of anodised aluminium But the most tantalising creations lie perhaps two to three years in the future, given that one of Mr Arnault’s ...

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INTRODUCING: Laurent Ferrier cuts weight with the Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit Time+Tide
Laurent Ferrier cuts weight Jan 24, 2023

INTRODUCING: Laurent Ferrier cuts weight with the Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit

Laurent Ferrier gives us a fourth iteration of the Grand Sport Tourbillon After the rich-boy flex of the Golden Brown, the reference returns to its sporty roots with a titanium case and bracelet The icing on top? A beautiful gradient salmon dial When Laurent Ferrier released the first Grand Sport Tourbillon, it stood out. In … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Laurent Ferrier cuts weight with the Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino collection delivers classical sophistication in spades Time+Tide
Casio nally Jan 23, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino collection delivers classical sophistication in spades

IWC usually brings to mind the stern, sporty range of military-inspired pilot’s watches, and occasionally the suave dressiness of one of their Portugeisers. Often under-appreciated is the Portofino collection - a group of watches which pay homage to one of the most classic eras in watchmaking history. With elegance and detail-oriented excellence in spades, the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino collection delivers classical sophistication in spades appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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