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Hands-On: The Astor + Banks Sea Ranger
A modern take on an everyday sport watch tuned for travel.
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Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 (Live Pics, Pricing)
A tech-forward halo watch charts a new course for Oris.
Time+Tide
Absolute power – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph
Over the last few years the Laureato line has emerged as Girard-Perregaux’s valiant hero - a sporty steel warrior well equipped to win wrists across the world. Earlier this year, at SIHH in Geneva, Girard-Perregaux unleashed their latest expression of the Laureato – the evolved Laureato Absolute. This darkly clad watch was offered in a … ContinuedThe post Absolute power – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Louis Vuitton Tambour All Black Chronograph 46
One of the malaises sweeping the Swiss watch industry is, in my oh-so-humble opinion, that of homogeneity. From a distance, the world from the wrist down looks remarkably similar: round, black-dialled steel sports cases in a style that sits somewhere on a spectrum between vaguely retro to full-blown reissue. I’m well aware that this isn’t … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Louis Vuitton Tambour All Black Chronograph 46 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: This guy has zero regrets buying the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59
It’s fair to say at this point of 2019 that the CODE 11.59 collection from Audemars Piguet has been the most widely panned watch release of the year, if not recent years. It was in some ways a perfect storm of critical disapproval, poor PR and a pack mentality that got pretty nasty. But pictures … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: This guy has zero regrets buying the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Too Many Issues - Fondaria Navale Condor Bronze Pilot Watch Review
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2”
The Phillips Perpetual boutique in London officially opens this week with 40 watches encompassing all important genres of watch collecting, from a Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” to a Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref. 3700 (from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver no less). But one of the flagship offerings is an important example of independent watchmaking – a Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” that’s “No. 1”. It is very much a quintessential, early Roger W. Smith creation with the hallmark elements of his watchmaking. But the watch is also historically interesting, being an example of the road not taken for Mr Smith. The forgotten “Edition” This watch illuminates an intriguing bit of early Roger W. Smith history. Shortly after Mr Smith delivered the first batch of Series 2 watches in late 2007, he decided to create the “Edition” concept. According to Mr Smith, the idea was to produce Series 2 as a limited edition of 90 watches in total, with 30 watches in each colour of gold. All Edition watches had 38mm cases and solid silver dials; the Edition 1 was in yellow gold, Edition 2 in rose, and Edition 3 in white gold. At the same time, Mr Smith also offered custom versions of the Series 2, which were also available in a platinum case. But as it turned out, most clients wanted a custom watch, rather than an Edition example. So Mr Smith discreetly abandoned Edition not long after, and only a five of each Edition were made. This is on...
Deployant
The Collector’s View: AP CODE 11.59 – why I bought it, and why I don’t regret it.
Collector Christian Kretschmar tells of his love story with his Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Self-Winding watch. Why he bought it, and why he has no regrets.
Time+Tide
Another look at the Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary
Editor’s note: The Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary is an oldie but a goodie. And not an oldie in the 1950-something sense, but rather in the, ‘this 2017 limited edition is probably all gone by now’. But it’s very much the definition of a modern heritage banger. The hardest thing when re-creating a vintage watch … ContinuedThe post Another look at the Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: An in-depth look at one of the most important timepieces ever made
Much to the chagrin of watch brand marketing departments, the list of timepieces of genuine historical significance is pretty small. Actual moon watches, the Breguet commissioned with Marie Antoinette in mind, and, of course, the works of John Harrison. Even if you’re not an aficionado of 18th century horological science (and TBH we don’t hold … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: An in-depth look at one of the most important timepieces ever made appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Two tones and a sprinkling of diamond – the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41
Editor’s note: Steel sports is all well and good, but there’s something very appealing about the iconic Datejust in this steel and gold livery, with a warm brown dial and diamond hour markers. Especially with that bezel and band. Primo … There are two main contenders for the title of ‘most recognisable watch in the … ContinuedThe post Two tones and a sprinkling of diamond – the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
The Most Underrated & Historic $1000 Dive Watch: Yema Superman 39mm
SJX Watches
Phillips Debuts ‘Perpetual’ Boutique in London
Best known as a watch auctioneer par excellence, Phillips recently established Perpetual, a watch store inside its London showroom on Berkeley Square. A permanent showroom offering watches year-round, Perpetual was conceived to offer clients something to buy in-between the twice-yearly watch auctions. Perpetual comes a few months after the successful pop-up store that took place in March, where a Philippe Dufour Simplicity was purchased by Jean-Claude Biver, the legendary watch entrepreneur who’s now the non-executive chairman of the LVMH watch division. The watch department in London, led by financier-turned-watch-specialist James Marks, is the first outpost of Phillips to have a permanent store. “I believe that auction houses cannot apply the same business model to every geographical location,” explains Mr Marks, “and rather than rely on traditional seasons we need to be proactive with clients year round.” Perpetual officially opens on Wednesday, September 4, with a cocktail party and panel discussion. The panel is made of two industry luminaries – Mr Biver and Phillips’ auction chief Aurel Bacs – and myself. To RSVP for the panel discussion, register online with Phillips. The highlights The inaugural offering at Perpetual is diverse, encompassing both vintage and modern watches. Being a personal favourite of Mr Marks, Rolex “Zenith” Daytonas are well represented, but the line-up also includes a selection of choice examples of independent watchm...
Quill & Pad
Serving Up Salmon: Watches With Sublime Salmon-Colored Dials And Why They Remain Rare – Reprise
Even seasoned watch connoisseurs look twice when presented with a men's watch fitted with what’s known as a “salmon” dial. If it is a fairly common model, a salmon-colored dial usually elevates the watch to a higher plane. Martin Green explains why this is so.
Time+Tide
A dash of sporty fun with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph
Editor’s note: Some watches you can’t get out of your head, and the fun and friendly TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph from 2018 is one such watch. We can’t get over those pops of colour! The story in a second: Classic Carrera. More colour. If you spend more than a few minutes in the … ContinuedThe post A dash of sporty fun with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Chronograph and coffee
We reviewed the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Chronograph and we thought that as it is such a handsome watch, we'd do some lifestyle photography with it.
Revolution
Hamilton x Revolution - A Proud Partnership
To uphold the relevance of the mechanical watch to a new generation of consumers with value, style and performance, a Hamilton is hard to beat.
Video
ONE WATCH COLLECTION - Rolex Explorer 214270 Watch Review
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold “The Hour Glass”
Having unveiled commemorative editions from the likes of Audemars Piguet, De Bethune and Urwerk for its 40 years in business, Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass continues the anniversary roll-out with the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold. The watch is a variant of the entry-level but appealing Freak X, a remarkable exercise in simplicity and the most affordable version of the Freak to date. But importantly, it manages to be the base model without being a concession, and instead is more of an optimisation, offering a great deal of exotic watchmaking – it boasts the fanciest oscillator of any watch in this price segment – for little money as such things go. While the Freak X forgoes some characteristics of its avant-garde forebear, it is both technically clever and much more refined in design, offering an enhanced practicality by way of a smaller case, a traditional crown, an automatic movement, and most crucially, a high-performance silicon balance wheel – an innovation found only in one other Freak, the pricier Freak Vision. Streamlined mechanics Limited to 30 pieces, the Freak X for The Hour Glass combines a new case material – “Carbonium Gold” – with a striking champagne dial. In contrast to most Freak models that have dark dials, this Freak X has a face in a pale gold which gives it a greater presence on the wrist, but because of its matte, brushed finish, it isn’t loud and manages to be easily wearable. The only downside of t...
SJX Watches
MB&F; and L’Epée 1839 Introduces the T-Rex Clock
Over the past five years, independent powerhouse MB&F; and historical clockmaker L’Epée have built a reputation on enormous and complex creations, making horological spiders, robots, rocket ships and UFOs. This year, the duo has teamed up once more to create yet another eccentric tabletop timepiece – a cycloptic T-Rex. The T-Rex was first unveiled earlier in the year as a one-off creation that was customised with a rider atop for Only Watch. The T-Rex minus its passenger has now gone into production and is available in three iterations with either green, blue or red glass dials. While the earlier co-creations had more explicit influences, the T-Rex’s odd form requires some explanation. According to the brand, the source of inspiration was an ornament found on the desk of founder Maximilian Büsser that comprised of a Christmas bauble perched atop two chicken legs. Like the Medusa launched earlier in the year, the T-Rex strikes a balance between mechanical and organic forms. The 26.5cm tall body of the T-Rex is fashioned from stainless steel, palladium-plated brass and bronze, while its translucent “eyeball”, which also serves as the dial, is made of hand-blown glass from the same Murano producer that crafts the bodies of the Medusa. The jointed legs of T-Rex were designed to suggest motion, while its alternating sandblasted and polished finishing give it a sense of realism. In fact, the legs were modelled on actual Tyrannosaurus Rex bones, using 3D scans of f...
Time+Tide
8 signs you should be wearing a Tudor Pelagos
Editor’s note: A little while ago we went off-script with our watch coverage, making a short, snappy series of videos that - in a decidedly tongue-in-cheek manner - aimed to assist you in your Tudor purchasing decision. Here’s our take on the archetypal Tudor Pelagos wearer. And if you’ve got a Pelagos on your wrist … ContinuedThe post 8 signs you should be wearing a Tudor Pelagos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In-depth Review: Hanhart PRIMUS Nautic Pilot Bronze
We take a detailed look at the the Hanhart Nautic Pilot Bronze chronograph launched recently in Munich. We had the watch over a fortnight for our analysis.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Monta Atlas
Monta's latest GMT is a handsome and reserved take on a versatile travel-ready watch.
Video
IT HAS POTENTIAL - Spinnaker Cahill 39mm Diver Watch - Review
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Master Collection Moonphase
Longines’ Master Collection excels at entry-level complications that are affordably priced – last year’s annual calendar is a great buy – and the latest in the range is a moon phase and date. The Master Collection Moonphase is a watch that’s clear in what it wants to to. Aside from the time, it has a pointer date and moon indicators in a sub-dial at six, for a clean and symmetrical dial. The Master Collection Moonphase ref. L2.919.4.78.3 It’s powered by the L899 movement, an automatic based on the ETA A31.L91, which is an upgraded version of the common ETA 2892. The most obvious functional upgrade is the extended 64-hour power reserve, achieved in part by reducing the beat rate of the balance wheel from 4Hz to 3.5Hz. Like many other models in the Master Collection, the new moon phase is offered in two cases sizes – 40mm and 42mm – both in stainless steel. Dial options are silvered barleycorn guilloche, black barleycorn, or sun-ray brushed metallic blue. The smaller, 40mm case is also offered with brilliant-cut diamond hour markers on all dial styles. The Master Collection Moonphase 42mm The ref. L2.909.4.97.0 with diamond markers Key facts Diameter: 40mm or 42mm Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 30m Movement: L899 Functions: Hours, minutes, second, moon phase and date Winding: Automatic Frequency: 25,200bph, or 3.5Hz Power reserve: 64 hours Strap: Leather strap or steel bracelet Price: US$2,350 for all versions, US$2,750 for the 40...
Time+Tide
“It was our last night in Venice, and I happened to walk past the boutique …” – Teesan’s Omega Speedmaster CK2998
Travelling with a watch fan is always a fraught affair. You’re always pulled into random vintage shops or glittering boutiques, in search of the elusive, the rare, or the unique. It’s a lesson that Teesan’s wife learned … It was our last night in Venice, and I happened to walk past the boutique … Teesan … ContinuedThe post “It was our last night in Venice, and I happened to walk past the boutique …” – Teesan’s Omega Speedmaster CK2998 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Bremont S300 review
I’ve been following British watch brand Bremont for five or six years now, and have been a fan of their work for various reasons. Earlier this year, I had the pleasure of attending their annual ‘Townhouse’ event in London, where they released the bulk of their new models. Overall the range for 2019 was quite strong, and their military-inspired collection was impressive – mainly because it was produced under a partnership with the British Military of Defense (MoD). This agreement allows Bremont to legitimately feature the signs, symbols and Heraldic badges of the MoD. Bremont are also the only luxury watch-maker with such permission, and we can only imagine the intricacies involved in securing such a partnership with the MoD. Today’s review is not that collection, and rather an update to the brands popular Supermarine collection. Specifically, the S300, which was released with a white dial after previously only being available with a black or blue dial. Not long after the S300 hit our shores, I was given the opportunity to spend a couple of weeks with one on loan, which was a great amount of time to get to know this watch and Bremont. The first thing that caught me was the refreshing white dial. It felt summery and worked really nicely with the accompanying polished blue bezel, which is unidirectional. The large Super-LumiNova filled hands make legibility a breeze, and are helped by the anti-reflective sapphire crystal, which has a nice dome to it. I noticed this ...
Revolution
Purebred Athlete: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”
In rethinking every aspect of the sports watch, Omega has created a veritable stunner in the Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor Due Trio in Titanium
A downsized, slimmer sports watch that’s the most civilian of Panerai’s military-inspired watches, the Luminor Due is now available in three sizes with a brushed titanium case (the PAM 926, PAM 927, and PAM 964). All have a date function, and the largest 45mm model has a second time zone and power reserve. Prior to this launch, the Luminor Due was only available as a time-only in two case sizes (42mm and 45mm), so the newly launched trio substantially increases the offerings in the lightweight metal. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM 927 in titanium But perhaps more significant is the newly developed calibre inside the new models. The P.900 is a large movement at 12 1/2 lignes, or about 28mm, in diameter, but slim. In fact, it’s the thinnest movement produced by Panerai, measuring just 4.2mm high. It’s automatic and has a three-day power reserve. Not much else has been revealed about the movement yet, but it is likely to be the brand’s new entry-level calibre. The smallest of the trio is the Luminor Due 38mm PAM00926 that’s powered by the automatic P.900 movement. It’s the first time the smallest Luminor Due case is being offered in titanium. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM00927 is one step upwards in size, but otherwise identical, with the same movement and specs. And the top of the line watch is the Luminor Due GMT Power Reserve 45mm PAM000964. This is equipped with the P.4002 automatic movement that has a second time zone, power reserve and zero-reset hack seconds....
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