Hodinkee
Reading Time At HSNY: The Witching Hour
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)
37,763 articles · 50 videos found · page 702 of 1261
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Insight: When Simplicity Belies Complexity, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum
The Chronomètre Optimum is arguably François-Paul Journe’s most complex no-complication creation. Being a time-only watch, the Chronomètre Optimum displays the same amount of information as the entry-level Chronomètre Souveraine, albeit for more than twice the price, with the Chronomètre Optimum retailing for US$129,500 in platinum and a bit less in gold. On a pleasantly asymmetric dial, the Chronomètre Optimum presents the wearer with the time, down to the second, and a power reserve indicator. Plain as the dial might seem, the Chronomètre Optimum’s appeal lies in its inner, and largely hidden, complexity. In fact, the cal. 1510 within ranks among the most sophisticated time-only movements on the market today. Chronometry Historically the tourbillon was never a complication, though it is often regarded as such today – though some prominent collectors disagree. In this context, it is difficult to label the features of the Chronomètre Optimum true complications. But since the timepiece was designed with chronometry in mind, its features of engineered accuracy might just qualify as a complication. Chronometry in mechanical watchmaking is regarded as a marriage between accuracy and precision, as there is a nuance between the two. Accuracy is the quality of a watch or clock to have a timekeeping deviation as close to zero as possible, whereas precision relates more to the consistency and stability of the timepiece’s rate, rather than to a temporary lack of devi...
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Andre Iguodala
This is the summer of Andre Iguodala. The Golden State Warriors small forward is fresh off winning the NBA finals MVP. He's flying all over the world talking to artists and designers, presenting at the ESPY Awards, and becoming the king of New York Men's Fashion Week. And Talking Watches, of course.
Deployant
The sports watches war: Six excellent sports watches at different price points
We take a look at the highly popular sports watch category and select some of our favourite sports watches that are currently available.
Quill & Pad
Asaka Aoi Edition Single Cask: A Japanese Single Malt Whisky Worth Looking At – Reprise
Normally Ken Gargett would not highlight a retailer/supplier, but Dekanta offers special limited edition Japanese whiskies as well as many of the harder-to-find bottlings. And he does think this Asaka Aoi Edition Single Cask is a very fine whisky and definitely worth a look.
Quill & Pad
Real-World Diving With The Seiko Prospex The 1968 Automatic Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation Limited Edition SLA055 – Reprise
As a fan of the extraordinary Seiko Prospex 1000, Dietmar Fuchs took the limited version of the reinterpretation of a famous Seiko diving watch diving and shares his real-world experience with it here.
Time+Tide
The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is vying for the stealth-wealth crown
A salmon dial, platinum case, and bi-retrograde complication of the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is Vacheron Constantin's subtle take on the recent phenomenon.The post The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is vying for the stealth-wealth crown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Krayon Anywhere: A Long Overdue Love Letter to a Practical Sunrise-Sunset Masterpiece – Reprise
As both an aesthetic and a mechanical evolution of the Krayon Everywhere, the Anywhere is first and foremost a sunrise-and-sunset watch. It has been significantly streamlined for a much cleaner dial so that much less effort is required by the wearer. Joshua Munchow has the complete lowdown here.
Teddy Baldassarre
The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction
How much would you pay for a watch? What if it was the only one of its kind, or a record-breaker in terms of complications, or once owned by someone famous or historically significant? And just how expensive are the most expensive watches to ever change hands in a sale? In today's red-hot watch auction market, the answers, and the sums, may surprise you. Here we run down the list of the top 25 watches in descending order of the price they fetched on the auction block, while spotlighting some of the timepieces with the most fascinating backstories and representing the most impressive technical achievements. You'll find the expected abundance of watches from Patek Philippe and Rolex (the clear leaders in the category) but also a few from other watchmakers, large and small, who've recently broken into the upper echelon. At the end, we'll spotlight the highest selling watches from a few other brands that didn't crack the top 25 but maintain a robust presence on the watch auction scene. 1. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 ($31.19 million, 2019, Christie’s) Patek Philippe unveiled the first Grandmaster Chime watch in 2014 as part of the many celebrations around the Genevan maison’s 175the anniversary. The reference that made history at the Only Watch auction in Geneva in 2019 was a unique piece, the only Grandmaster Chime ever crafted in stainless steel; the Grandmaster Chime models in Patek’s regular collection are all made in precious metals. The watch...
SJX Watches
Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary Black “Gilt”
Following the anniversary edition with a silvered “sector” dial, Tokyo retailer Shellman announces another small-run limited edition with the Habring² Shellman 50th Anniversary “Black”. Available as a chronograph or time-only, the new edition is limited to just 15 watches each. It retains the dial design of the earlier edition, but now in a black “gilt” finish and matched with a stepped bezel. Initial thoughts Vintage-inspired “sector” dials aren’t novel at all, but the new Shellman duo, like the original edition, stand out for their details. At the same time, the fact that they are Habring² means the price-performance ratio is excellent. Amongst the details that make this appealing are the applied markers, gold-powder print, as well as the matched silvered hands for the chronograph. These reveal an attention to detail in the design – unsurprising since Shellman is a respected seller of vintage watches – proving the whole here is greater than the sum of the parts. Though these are slightly more expensive than the first edition – the price is up about 10% – both models now include a steel bracelet. Add to that the weak Japanese yen, and these are a greater value buy than the original pair. Vintage-inspired Created to mark Shellman’s 50th anniversary, the original silver dial model was a nod to the retailer’s 2017 Habring² limited edition – which was launched well before “sector” dials became a fad. The new pair continue with the same ...
Worn & Wound
Opinion: What Makes a Great Bracelet?
We talk about them all the time, but they’re often the component of a watch that is least examined. The bracelet, whether attached to a sports watch, a dress watch, or something in between, can make or break how a watch actually wears on the wrist, and impact the overall look of a watch dramatically. And when it comes to bracelets, collectors and enthusiasts are never short on strong opinions – we all have things we love and hate, and it goes way beyond whether you prefer an Oyster or a Jubilee. Today, members of the Worn & Wound team weigh in on the question: what makes a great bracelet? Be sure to let us know what you think in the comments below. Zach Kazan The question of “What makes a great bracelet?” is deceptive in its complexity. There are a variety of factors you might consider and weight as you evaluate a bracelet. Comfort and appearance, of course, are chief among them. But there’s also the idea of durability, and adjustability, and the overall cohesion of the bracelet design with other elements of the watch. I’d argue, for example, that the classic Seamaster bracelet is nice looking on its own, but perhaps not suited to the watch it’s paired with. The fact is, I prefer wearing my watches on bracelets, particularly when they are conceived that way. A Rolex sports watch on a strap, for instance, is something I’ll never fully get behind. At a time when integrated bracelet sports watches are at the height of their popularity, there’s no sho...
Worn & Wound
IWC Brings a Fan Favorite Ceramic Tone to their 41mm Chronograph Platform
If you’re a fan of IWC pilot watches, you’ve no doubt participated in one of this cohort’s favorite activities, which is armchair quarterbacking the specifics of each release. We’ve gotten to a point where there are so many case sizes, complications, and case materials in the collection that the moment a new watch is announced, there’s a cry on the internet for that exact thing but tweaked, somehow, to more closely resemble another watch the brand makes. This is especially true with IWC’s ceramic cased pilot watches, which tend to be rather large and drive more than their share of “If only it was __mm” comments on Instagram. Earlier this year, in the midst of Ingy-fever, IWC quietly released a very nice 41mm chronograph in blue ceramic. It got some of us thinking: will more ceramic color options come to this Goldilocks sized case that everyone (myself very much included) seems to love? The answer, of course, is yes. This week, IWC revealed a watch that many collectors have been hoping for for quite some time, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. The brown “Mojave” case is meant to look like desert sand, and has been a favorite when executed as a perpetual calendar and Big Pilot. It was also, first, a chronograph, which made its debut back in 2019 in the same 44.5mm case later occupied by the Tahoe and Woodland versions of the chrono. It’s certainly the brand’s most unique ceramic colorway, and I have a feeling the news of this...
SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down the Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Mojave Desert
After recently introducing a pilot’s watch with a fully-luminous dial and the Big Pilot perpetual in white ceramic, IWC continues to grow its aviation-inspired offerings with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. First introduced as a limited edition in 2019, the sand-coloured ceramic chronograph is now regular production and in a more wearable size of 41 mm. Initial thoughts One of the standouts in the Top Gun collection has been the Mojave Desert with its beige tones – definitely an unusual colour for a oversized sports watch. However, the colour was only applied to larger models to date. The reintroduction of the Mojave Desert in a more compact size, and standard production to boot, is a good thing – though probably not such a good thing for owners of the limited edition version. The smaller case helps with wearability, making this desirable colour combination available to a wider audience. Size aside, there is no major point of difference. The same can be said for price: the new Mojave Desert chronograph retails for US$11,700, mirroring the price tag of the other ceramic chronographs in the collection. A new size, but same style The Mojave Desert chronograph is the latest addition to the “Colours of Top Gun” collection that draws inspiration from the US Navy’s flight school. The colour choice for this model is influenced by the Mojave Desert that surrounds the US Navy’s TOPGUN fighter pilot academy, and its pilots’ distinctive flight...
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard’s Most Ambitious Collaboration Yet: a New Tourbillon with Old Friend Alain Silberstein
This week, Louis Erard caps a fruitful, multiyear relationship with Alain Silberstein that has had a profound impact on the stock of both parties in the larger watch space. Silberstein, after a period where his watches were all the rage, had faded somewhat from our collective memory by 2021, and Louis Erard, too, was adrift. They made very high quality and unique watches for the money, but weren’t really the focus of enthusiasts and collectors. Now, through a series of collaborations with Silberstein and others, Louis Erard occupies a very different niche in the collector arena, and we’ve seen a renewed interest in Silberstein’s work as well in the years since his design language has been put spotlighted by these collaborations. Now, in what feels like a culmination of the work they’ve done together, Louis Erard has released a limited edition box set that adds a new color option to a prior collaboration, and, oh yeah, a tourbillon. No big deal. The Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki is a new spin on their second collaboration, a collection of three watches (available as a collector’s set) featuring a unique titanium case framed with brancards. The watches in that collection featured a regulator, a day-date complication, and a chronograph, all with the hallmark Silberstein combination of colorful shapes in lieu of traditional hands. For this set, the black dials have been swapped for a dark green khaki, and the chronograph is now a tourbillon. It...
![[VIDEO] Hands-On: The Surprising Zenith Pilot Automatic](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/10/Zenith_05.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-On: The Surprising Zenith Pilot Automatic
Zenith has taken a methodical approach to fleshing out the collections of their 4 families of watches, balancing a weighty heritage against an ethos that forces progress. How they’ve gone about this has been the subject of several of our reviews, and even editorials about the brand’s more recent history. Their newest collection of watches, released earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, explores another realm of the brand’s past: pilot watches. Zenith first filed a trademark for the French term “Pilote” in 1888, decades before the Wright brothers made history in Kitty Hawk, and to this day are the only brand permitted to print the word on the dial (they trademarked the English word “Pilot” in 1904). Zenith has made some unforgettable pilot watches in their day (the A3822 being a personal favorite), but it’s been many years since they’ve done so in a way that’s captured modern enthusiasts. Zenith has a checkered recent past when it comes to pilot watches, with releases dotted through the 20-teens not quite hitting the notes they needed to lay the groundwork for a permanent collection in the same way their classic sport watches have. But then, Pilot watches are a different breed altogether. Zenith’s approach with their newest collection of Pilot watches feels very different from those recent efforts, and feels like a genuine, modern approach to building a collection with some legs. To get a better sense of that direction, we spent some time with the ...
Hodinkee
Ed Sheeran x Hodinkee x G-SHOCK Limited Edition
After three years of collaborations with John Mayer, he asked friend and fellow musician, Ed Sheeran, to design his very own G-SHOCK. Introducing the G-SHOCK Ref. 6900 - Subtract By Ed Sheeran For Hodinkee.
Time+Tide
The Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Fratello Capsule Edition is the publication’s latest collaboration
Adorned with touches of orange, Fratello and Fortis introduce a large flieger chronograph with a funky brown dial.The post The Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Fratello Capsule Edition is the publication’s latest collaboration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Holgur Frømand Edition Fumée
Atelier Holgur extends their Frømand collection with two fumé style dials in a coral red and emerald green. Limitd editions of 8 pieces each.
SJX Watches
Microbrand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore
Following on from its inaugural event last October, Spring Sprang Sprung (SPRG) is set to return to XM Studios in Singapore from October 20-22. With a growing roster of microbrands exhibiting, the exhibitors will also be joined by Oris. Founded by Yong Keong Lim, owner of Feynman Timekeepers, and Sugiharto Kusumadi, founder of Red Army Watches, the concept behind SPRG is a community-minded watch fair that is casual, welcoming and inclusive. With a number of talks and practical workshops planned over the three days to accompany the 36 exhibiting brands, there will be plenty to do. With a focus on local and regional microbrands, leather-goods makers, and watch storage specialists, the exhibitors include Behrens, Boldr, and Yi Leather. A number of brands will also be using the fair as a platform to launch new products. Hoping to make the fair open to as many people as possible, entry is free with tickets available through an online registration. SPRG will be open from October 20-22, 11 am-6 pm daily, apart from the last day when it closes at 5 pm. XM Studios Kitchener Complex, Level 3 809 French Road Singapore 200809 To register for a free ticket, click here.
SJX Watches
Review: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone in Platinum
After its initial introduction 18 years ago, the Lange 1 Time Zone with a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial has made a comeback with a second-generation model. The revival features the cal. L141.1, which adds a daylight-saving time function to the second time zone. Already one of the most complex world time watches at the time of its launch, the second-generation Lange 1 Time Zone still stands out as one of the most advanced travel watches available today. Initial thoughts This combination of a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial takes us nearly two decades back in time, as the original model was available in this same livery. It’s heartening to witness this classic pairing return, but now powered by the upgraded cal. L141.1. Most striking is the timeless appeal of this watch. Examining it, I can’t help but think that the design has not aged, a testament to the enduring style of A. Lange & Söhne that is both formal and functional. Its longevity and continued relevance over the years are remarkable. To complement this, it’s worth noting the consistently surprising comfort provided by the relatively large case, which sits effortlessly on the wrist. Unlike typical sporty tool watches, it maintains a classical look and size that complements elegant attire, such as, of course, an airline captain’s suit. However, it’s essential to acknowledge that the readability of its dial under certain light conditions remains a significant challenge. Despite this sligh...
Worn & Wound
MICROMILSPEC is Back with a Watch Made in Collaboration with the Norwegian Air Force
While not necessarily a household name, MICROMILSPEC is well-known in military and law enforcement circles across Norway, the United States, and soon Canada. A Scandinavian brand that’s dedicated to creating performance-tested, long-lasting timepieces built for the specific needs of its customers, MICROMILSPEC’s brand ethos isn’t to sell volume – it’s to become an invaluable tool on the field or during active duty. Because of this, many of MICROMILSPEC’s watches have been bespoke one-off designs for the commissioner’s specific purpose; not necessarily for commercial sale. Crafting these highly specialized pieces has always been the backbone of the brand, but MICROMILSPEC has since started to catch the eye of collectors who want to own one of their watches without, for example, risking their lives or working for an intelligence agency. Because of this, MICROMILSPEC has opened some of their designs to the general public for a limited-edition release. One such watch is the new HERCULES. Built in partnership with the Norwegian Air Force’s 335 Squadron, the HERCULES is dedicated to the aircraft that shares its name. To build a watch that has as much ingenuity and power as the esteemed aircraft, the Norwegian watchmaker worked in conjunction with the Squadron for over a year to exacting specifications. The result is a 100-piece limited edition that’s as technically precise as it is wearable. Every inch of the HERCULES has an intentional – and functional – q...
Quill & Pad
What Makes a Daily Wearer Wristwatch?
GaryG wears all of the watches in his collection, though some watches are more suited to daily wear than others. A reader's question got Gary thinking, both about which pieces in his assortment are the go-to routine watches for frequent wear and, at a more fundamental level, what makes a watch a “daily wearer.” Read his opinion on that right here.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bremont Broadsword Hands-On: Testing The Entry-Level Bremont
Over the years we've really warmed up to Bremont on this site, even though I think they've had some misses recently. The S302 GMT I reviewed is still a hit in my eyes and this time, I wanted to test out one of the more entry-level offerings in the catalog. By the way, that S302 even made its way into our guide covering the best military watches ever. While it's not necessarily affordable by any means, the Bremont Broadsword seemed to be a compelling entry point, specifically within the brand's Armed Forces collection. I jumped at the opportunity to try it out this year, along with a couple of other field watches in my rotation.
![[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy”](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/10/Tudor_Blackbay_red_16.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy”
I don’t look at Tudor in the same way as some of my colleagues. I’ve always liked and admired the brand, and I’ve owned their watches in the past, but for me they come up well short of a brand that I’ve ever obsessed over. They make very good watches, and represent an excellent value in the larger market, but when a new Tudor is released and the entire Watch Internet stops in its tracks to dissect it to the micron, I always feel a little lost. They just don’t inspire a desire to dive into that level of analysis for me. It’s how I feel about ER versus The Sopranos. Both shows I love and find myself rewatching often. I could podcast every week about The Sopranos, but I just don’t have a lot to say about ER. But when I saw the new Black Bay 41 in burgundy at Watches & Wonders this year, it felt different. It was like the Tudor portion of my brain, which might previously have been lobotomized, was magically activated, possibly for the very first time. It could have been the high of that first meeting of the show, the lighting in the booth, being in an over-caffeinated state, or the promise of those little sandwiches in the press lounge in a matter of hours, but I was in a particularly receptive mood for this watch. I remember it immediately standing out among their entire crop of releases, which had not yet been through the cycle of hype to come. I distinctly recall thinking that the new 41mm Black Bay was going to be the star pupil of this year’s novelties, ...
Worn & Wound
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Carbide Case
The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is among the great original chronograph designs to which the rules around aging just don’t seem to apply. Whether it’s the original and its many variations, or the modern reinterpretation, which we reviewed here, the Chronograph 1 is a benchmark when it comes to balancing form and function between the dial and case. Since re-introducing the Chronograph 1 in early 2022, a celebration of the watch’s 50th anniversary, Porsche Design has slowly been filling out the collection with interesting variations, largely in line with special releases from Porsche. This latest edition takes a different approach, recalling their past as a military watch, but with a civilian friendly nomenclature: Utility. The newest addition to the Chronograph 1 collection recalls details from military watches of the ‘70s, with many of the small details represented in a slightly altered manner, from unit insignia, to the tritium marking “3H” circled in red – each are repurposed to create a new, more inclusive platform called Utility. Further still, this is more than a visual exercise as the biggest feature of the new watch is the use of titanium carbide for the case, a material developed and patented by Porsche Design. The material is touted as tougher and lighter than what we presume is the titanium variation of the watch, with a titanium glass bead blasted finish on its exterior. The light gray, matte appearance is uniform with contrasting crown and push...
Worn & Wound
Now In The Shop: Breaking Barriers With AVI-8’s New Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition
AVI-8 is a new brand to the Windup Watch Shop, and they’re debuting with the all-new Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition. Formed in 2012, AVI-8 set out to explore the world of aviation through horology. The brand draws inspiration from all facets of aviation, whether it’s an iconic aircraft, record-breaking feat, or act of bravery. The Bell X-1 Automatic pulls from all three, commemorating Chuck Yeager’s history making flight of the Bell X-1 aircraft well past the speed of sound. AVI-8 is a new brand to the Windup Watch Shop, and they’re debuting with the all-new Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition. Formed in 2012, AVI-8 set out to explore the world of aviation through horology. The brand draws inspiration from all facets of aviation, whether it’s an iconic aircraft, record-breaking feat, or act of bravery. The Bell X-1 Automatic pulls from all three, commemorating Chuck Yeager’s history making flight of the Bell X-1 aircraft well past the speed of sound. The post Now In The Shop: Breaking Barriers With AVI-8’s New Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
10 important firsts in watchmaking
There are many brands that claim to have a novelty up their sleeve, but there are first, and then there are first. Here are some of the most significant ones.The post 10 important firsts in watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Are You Crazy? You’d Pay How Much for a Watch? – Reprise
Here is an entertaining little story about John Keil, his Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and a bunch of guys around a poker table – a story he's sure many watch guys and gals can relate to.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Fresh Keycaps, WatchTime NY, & One M.A.D. House
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. WatchTime Returns to NYC This year’s Windup Watch Fair in New York City is right around the corner (less than a week away!) and it once again coincides with WatchTime New York, held annually at Gotham Hall, just a few subway stops away from Windup festivities at the Altman Building. WatchTime is absolutely worth checking out, and combined with Windup it should make for a great weekend of watches in NYC. This year at WatchTime you’ll be able to see a huge variety of brands, some of whom will be bringing watches that are tough to see in person, including MB&F;, Breguet, Louis Erard, Greubel Forsey, and many, many others. This year, WatchTime has generously offered a special code to Worn & Wound readers to get a free Sunday ticket ($39 value) by entering the code Worn&Wound;_Sunday in the “enter coupon code” field when checking out on the WatchTime website. KAM Outline Keycaps & GMK Hyperfuse Group Buy If you spend most of your time sitting in front of a keyboard, you probably deserve a better one. Mechanical keyboard enthusiasts put plenty of time and effort into finding jus...
Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger: It’s a Puzzle – It’s Literally a Puzzle
What makes high end watches so desirable is the artistry involved. For some watches, it is artistry in their complexity, or their superlative hand finishing, or intricate dials, and some feature actual artwork like miniature painting. Then there are a very few timepieces that offer all of that artistry and more: one such timepiece is the unique piece Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger.