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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Stephen Nichols Worn & Wound
Apr 7, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Stephen Nichols

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Stephen Nichols shares not three, but four watches, and somehow still manages to stay under budget. This collection is a testament to micro-brands bringing something a little different to the table, and highlights just how far you can stretch your budget on some truly awesome watches. Stephen was even kind enough to provide his own photography of the watches, so all credit to @talkingabouttime for the imagery within. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  The old adage, “anything worth doing is worth overdoing,” is as true to watch collecting as it is to anything else. Thankfully, you don’t have to skimp on quality and design for a three-watch collection even when you’re on a budget. Micro-brands are offering up more than just great value, they’re giving us a personalized experience on top of it. Go to a watch fair or slide into a brand’s DMs, and chances are good you’ll be greeted by a dreamer who’s just itching to show you what they’ve made and why they made it. You can score an incredible watch that matches your style and also tells a personal story about the designer. Here’s a list of three, ok maybe four watches that deliver huge value for under $5,000. Watches that I’d be proud to add to my personal collection. Typsim – 200M – $1,199 How do you capture the charm of a vintage diver in a modern packag...

The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir California offers Apr 7, 2023

The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial

The Panerai Radiomir California is their first California dial in a 45mm case. For the first time, Panerai have experimented with a faux-aged PVD case. The green and gilt dial gives the watch a lot of old-world charm thanks to modern techniques. Panerai haven’t been the fastest brand to pick up on new trends historically, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
IWC Booth Apr 7, 2023

In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders

One of the most talked about releases this year came courtesy of IWC in the form of a new Ingenieur that takes the watch back to its Gerald Genta design era of history. You can see our hands-on impressions of that watch right here. The new watches take clear inspiration from the 1970s footprint, but offer a quite contemporary execution that won’t be mistaken for anything throwback. But that’s not all people were discussing at their year’s Watches & Wonders, the IWC booth made one of the biggest impressions of the whole fair, setting a funky ‘70s engineering aesthetic against the new watches, which even included a Mercedes C-111 mkIII concept car right in the booth.  During our visit to the booth, we ran into IWC CEO (and Worn & Wound Podcast alum) Chris Grainger, who gave us the scoop on the new watches and the booth itself. This watch was a long time coming, as you might imagine, and Chris takes us through some of the development of the design we see today. Oh, and those crown guards? It seems that we’re the only ones that spent any real time stressing about them. See more of our coverage of Watches & Wonders 2023 right here, and head over to our YouTube channel for more of our video content. The post In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope blends dressy sophistication with all-out sports utility Time+Tide
Junghans Meister S Chronoscope blends Apr 7, 2023

The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope blends dressy sophistication with all-out sports utility

The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope is now available with a blue dial. The 45mm watch is fully featured with 200m of water resistance. Its style is a great blend between dressy sophistication and all-out sports utility. Junghans first released the Meister S Chronoscope in 2020, and in hindsight it’s hard to believe that it’s taken … ContinuedThe post The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope blends dressy sophistication with all-out sports utility appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love Time+Tide
Hublot big love Today we Apr 7, 2023

Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love

Today we enter the world of the Hublot Big Bang, yes that’s right, Hublot one of the most polarising watch brands on the market. They were made famous by the likes of Jay-Z whose lyrics: ”I’m still the man to watch, Hublot on my left hand or not” and his Hublot-centric collection outline his continued … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Watches & Wonders 2023 Edition Time+Tide
Apr 7, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Watches & Wonders 2023 Edition

As you all know very well, it was all about Watches & Wonders last week. The team, both live on the ground and back at HQ, were working round the clock to bring you all the latest and greatest from the fair. It was an experience that was incredibly exhausting, but also incredibly rewarding.   … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Watches & Wonders 2023 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SJX W&W; Highlights – The Unexpected and the Well-Executed SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights – The Unexpected and the Well-Executed

Because it was the world’s biggest watch brands showing off their latest products at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), surprises seemed unlikely. Yet there were a few surprises at the fair, with several coming from the most conservative brand of all, Rolex, which debuted the now infamous “Bubbles” and “Puzzle”. But the unexpected aside, the fair also saw a number of well-executed new models that were just right, most notably from Cartier, which stuck to what it does well. The Tank Normale in yellow gold with a matching bracelet Surprises A surprise launch, but certainly not unexpected as a highlight, is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time ref. 5224R. Although it appears to be a typical Calatrava at a distance, the ref. 5224R is elegantly different. For one, it is surprisingly large for a Calatrava at 42 mm but typically thin at under 9 mm. The ref. 5224R More unusual is the 24-hour display that is a convenient and smart method of showing two time zones without the need for a day and night indicator. But as is often the case with Patek Philippe, the novelty of the watch was not invented. Its key features, namely the time display and case size, are rooted in history – the watch is modelled on the oversized Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. But at over US$57,000, the ref. 5224R is unusually expensive for a two-time zone watch, though that is explained in part by the high-end movement inside that’s shared with the top-of-t...

Talking with Niels Eggerding About the Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) Revolution
Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Apr 6, 2023

Talking with Niels Eggerding About the Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S)

Wei visits Frederique Constant’s manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva to speak to Managing Director of the brand, Niels Eggerding, about the limited edition collaboration that is probably the most revolutionary that we have ever done. The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Future Past (Salmon) celebrates watchmaking’s past with a form factor reminiscent of 1940s chronometers […]

eBay Finds: Diver Chronographs, Full Kits, & NOS Goodness Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster Jumbo Going Apr 6, 2023

eBay Finds: Diver Chronographs, Full Kits, & NOS Goodness

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster Jumbo Going to start this week off with a bang with this stellar vintage Omega Seamaster! This circa late 1950’s reference 2975-1 SC is simply gorgeous and not one you see too often. Seller calls it ‘jumbo’ in the title but it’s just under 35mm wide, which is a classic Seamaster size. The unpolished steel case has tapered lugs rather than the ‘fat lugs’ style, but honestly I love this case/lug style. The caseback is fantastic with the oversized and deeply engraved Hippocampus logo, which is really uncommon. The original dial has a nice, fairly even patina, and killer applied steel arrow markers. The steel dauphine hands have some oxidation on them, but overall the whole watch is a beauty. Correct crown with deep grooves. The caliber 500 automatic movement is clean and seller states it runs well. If you’re pining for a vintage Seamaster, check this one out! View auction here. Vintage Baylor Dive Chronograph Next up we have a nice vintage Baylor chronograph diver. I have no idea why the seller has the workd ‘Heuer’ in the title other than clickbait. The steel skindiver style case measures 37.5mm wide and looks unpolished but does exhibit light w...

The Rolex Explorer Welcomes New 40mm Case Worn & Wound
Rolex Explorer Welcomes New 40mm Apr 6, 2023

The Rolex Explorer Welcomes New 40mm Case

Just a few short years ago, Rolex surprised all of us by returning the Explorer to its 36mm roots, after a relatively short stint at 39mm. I discuss that move and the watch itself at length in this review of the ever charming 124270. While many lamented the change, there is certainly no shortage of larger sport watches across the Rolex catalog to choose from. This year, Rolex again returns to the Explorer, adding an entirely new size option to live alongside the 36mm case, offering something for everyone with a new Explorer 40 reference 224270. They’ve managed to fix some of the odd proportion issues that plagued the old 39mm 214270 in the process.  The new Rolex Explorer 40 at left, existing 36 at right. The Explorer 40 was was one of many new releases from Rolex this year, and largely fell into quiet territory alongside blockbusters like a new Daytona, a titanium Yacht-Master, an entirely new formal range called Perpetual 1908, and a pair of unusually colorful watches in the OP and Day-Date range. But, for fans of the Explorer missing a larger option, this was a momentous release worth celebrating. This simple, perhaps iconic even, Rolex dial is now more accessible to more wrists than ever, and more options are always a good thing in my book. The Explorer 40 is exactly what it sounds like, a slightly scaled up Explorer with the same dial and case design as the 36. Most importantly, the scale and proportions of the 3, 6, and 9 Arabic numerals, as well as the block hour...

A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic Worn & Wound
Luminox Apr 6, 2023

A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic

When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...

Chopard’s Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF is powered by a high-revving movement Time+Tide
Chopard s Alpine Eagle Cadence Apr 6, 2023

Chopard’s Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF is powered by a high-revving movement

The casual proposition in Chopard’s catalogue sports a high-beat 8 Hz movement Furthering the sporty characteristics, the Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF is cased in grade 5 titanium The 01.12-C in-house calibre retains its place from the 2019 limited edition 8HF in this regular-production release Although the Alpine Eagle collection is home to bold, sporty … ContinuedThe post Chopard’s Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF is powered by a high-revving movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The New Ming 29.01 Worldtimer Starts Another New Chapter Worn & Wound
Ming Apr 5, 2023

The New Ming 29.01 Worldtimer Starts Another New Chapter

Ming is back with a follow up to their 19.02 Worldtimer, released four years ago. That watch was something of a game-changer for Ming, adding a new complication to the brand’s repertoire, and served as an expansion of their design language. For the new 29.01 Worldtimer, Ming is once again taking a rather large step forward as the brand continues to refine their aesthetic and reimagine what a Ming can be. The concept of the new 29 series, according to Ming, is liquidity. The designs of watches in this new chapter, starting with the Worldtimer, will be defined by smooth, flowing lines, and an organic appearance. That, you might be thinking, kind of describes just about every Ming ever made. But on the 29.01 the brand has taken steps to make the watch appear seamless, as if it’s all of a single piece. The case does not have a bezel, for example, but the crystal is designed to merge directly into the case itself.  The dial is quite complex and appears to be made of two pieces: a main sapphire dial and a 24 hour metallic dial with a gradient effect. Both are heavily lumed, the sapphire portion with HyCeram ceramic Super-LumiNova X1 lume, but they have been executed in such a way as to appear to be merged together. The use of sapphire in the dial itself, the large box crystal, and in the handset contributes to a sense that all of the dial components are floating across different levels, according to the brand. It’s honestly tough to make sense of in the photos, but we ima...

Brew’s Latest Metric, in PVD Black, is Inspired by 1980s Car Culture and the Sportiest Metric Yet Worn & Wound
Brew s Latest Metric Apr 5, 2023

Brew’s Latest Metric, in PVD Black, is Inspired by 1980s Car Culture and the Sportiest Metric Yet

Brew’s Metric chronograph has become one of the biggest watch hits in the microbrand space since its introduction just a few years ago. The cycle of restock to sellout has been basically uninterrupted since the Metric made its debut in the summer of 2021, and the line recently saw an expansion with a gold plated version that rewired our expectations of what this watch can be. Now, just a few months out from that gold Metric, Brew has dropped a version in black PVD directly inspired by brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s love of car culture.  All of the Metrics have a solidly vintage infused vibe, but this one is squarely placed in the 80s, and anyone who has spent any amount of time thinking about cars from that decade will immediately understand the connections Brew is making in the design of this watch. The design is overtly sporty, with bright red accents inspired by instrument clusters on 1980s 911s contrasting sharply with the matte black dial and case. The blasted steel pushers and crown dramatically set off the case, and give the watch a tool-like sensibility. But it’s the sleekness of the black coating on the case and bracelet that does the heavy lifting in connecting this watch to 80s sports cars.  Something that we’ve always appreciated about the Metric is its fidelity to a style of sports watch that became popular in the 1970s, watches with shaped cases in sizes that by today’s standards would be considered a bit undersized, but in their day would have j...

Watches and Wonders Affordable Titanium Alternatives From The Shop Worn & Wound
Zenith joined Apr 5, 2023

Watches and Wonders Affordable Titanium Alternatives From The Shop

That’s a wrap. Watches and wonders is now behind us and one of the biggest takeaways from the fair was a continued emphasis on titanium. From IWC’s premium Ingenieur to Rolex and their new Yacht-Master. Even Zenith joined in with their new Defy Revival Shadow. Clearly, the larger brands are going to continue exploring their use of this light and strong material. That’s a wrap. Watches and wonders is now behind us and one of the biggest takeaways from the fair was a continued emphasis on titanium. From IWC’s premium Ingenieur to Rolex and their new Yacht-Master. Even Zenith joined in with their new Defy Revival Shadow. Clearly, the larger brands are going to continue exploring their use of this light and strong material. The post Watches and Wonders Affordable Titanium Alternatives From The Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is a bi-retrograde, bi-axis tourbillon spec monster Time+Tide
Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde Apr 5, 2023

The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is a bi-retrograde, bi-axis tourbillon spec monster

The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is Hublot’s latest addition to the Masterpiece collection. It features a bi-retrograde dial, as well as a bi-axis tourbillon for ultimate complexity. Despite many power-draining complications, the HUB6200 offers a 4-day power reserve. There will always be people seeking to discredit Hublot as serious watchmakers, however projects such as … ContinuedThe post The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is a bi-retrograde, bi-axis tourbillon spec monster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On with All the New Zenith Releases at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Zenith Releases Apr 4, 2023

Hands-On with All the New Zenith Releases at Watches & Wonders

Zenith relaunched their Pilot this year, in one of the most closely watched releases of Watches & Wonders. It’s one of those watches that was just hard to know what to make of it until seeing it in the metal (or ceramic), but both Zach Kazan and Blake Buettner were surprised by it in different ways. Here are their thoughts on the new Pilot watches, as well as a pair of genuine sleepers: a Defy Revival Shadow in bead blasted titanium, and an all new Defy Skyline in full ceramic (including the bracelet).  Pilot Zach: What I found when I finally went hands-on with the Pilot watches at Watches & Wonders last week was a collection of aviation inspired watches that didn’t feel the need to hew too close to tradition, either Zenith’s or the genre of pilot watches more generally. These watches, actually, reminded me of my favorite vintage Defy references in a surprising way, in that they were weird and unexpected, but still worked and were fun to wear. This isn’t a typical pilot watch in the same way a Defy from the mid-70s isn’t a typical sports watch. Their sensibility is tweaked just a little, to the point where there are few direct comparisons you can make to other watches. I guess what I’m trying to say is that they’re original in a way that few watches in this category are anymore.  The chronograph is the standout, in my opinion, and if I had to choose, I’d take the one in steel. There are two things about this watch that I really love. First, the way the ac...

Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold Time+Tide
Patek Philippe wows Apr 4, 2023

Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold

Patek Philippe embarks on a new route for Watches & Wonders 2023 with two new versions of its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. In addition to the second time zone, there’s the added complication of a flyback chronograph. Two dial colours are offered, both cased in polished white gold. The new Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Chronograph SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 3, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Chronograph

At Watches & Wonders 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) is once again focusing on the Reverso, launching several new models along with new dial for existing references. The most notable debut is certainly the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which offers a minimalist primary time display on one side and a partially open-worked chronograph on the other. This new model pays tribute to the Reverso Chronographe Retrograde of 1996, perhaps one of the best watches of that decade and one that helped solidify JLC’s status as a master of complications. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph reimagines the original for a new generation of collectors while being different enough to be its own watch. The reverse face with the chronograph as well as additional time display Initial thoughts On its face (no pun intended), the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is good value, offering a novel and compact chronograph movement with classic but unusual aesthetics thanks to its two faces. A key different between this and the original is the double-sided time display (that shows the same time on both faces). Initially, I was disappointed by the addition of a time display on the chronograph side of the watch. In my view, part of the charm of the original was the single-minded focus of each side. But upon reflection I’ve come to view this change as an upgrade, since it now enables the user to wear the chronograph side up as a primary time display when desired. This practicality differentiates the Tribute from the o...

Hands On with the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire, the Most Audacious Sapphire Watch Hublot Has Made Worn & Wound
Hublot Has Made Apr 3, 2023

Hands On with the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire, the Most Audacious Sapphire Watch Hublot Has Made

And now, readers, we’ve come to that portion of our Watches & Wonders coverage that I know at least two of you have been anxiously anticipating, Yes, it’s now an annual tradition I guess, where I will wax rhapsodically about a mind bending Hublot novelty fit for a modern version of an 18th century French king. I can’t really think of a better way to describe the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire than to contextualize it with something commonly understood to be shorthand for over-the-top indulgence, but that’s what this watch is all about, in the best possible way. It’s a huge swing, which is exactly what I like to see from brands at Watches & Wonders. If I’m going to fly across an ocean and deal with travel delays at every step, I’d like to see things that I can only see in a presentation in the back of one of those enormous booths.  Last year I wrote about the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire and characterized it as one of the best watches of last year’s Watches & Wonders because it succeeded at being compelling from a watchmaking perspective while also being completely outlandish in a way that Hublot is uniquely great at. It marked a point in my own appreciation for the brand where they rose above the level of a mere curiosity and reached a point where, in my opinion, they are deserving of the respect given to any other serious innovator in contemporary watchmaking.  This year they’re back with a sequel of sorts to last ye...

Sherpa recreates the original EPSA Super Compressor case Time+Tide
Apr 3, 2023

Sherpa recreates the original EPSA Super Compressor case

Dive watches are more popular than ever, especially compressor divers. These ubiquitous watches herald from a time when horological engineering was at its peak, and when man’s explorative mind had no limits. Compressor divers were built to withstand submersion whilst remaining relatively thin and were therefore comfortable to wear. This was made possible by the … ContinuedThe post Sherpa recreates the original EPSA Super Compressor case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulgari’s Precious and Striking Tourbillon models present three variations of the complication Time+Tide
Bulgari s Precious Apr 3, 2023

Bulgari’s Precious and Striking Tourbillon models present three variations of the complication

Bulgari flexes their haute horlogerie muscles with four high-end tourbillon-equipped pieces The Precious Naturalia and Precious Tourbillon Lumière show off natural gemstone beauty in rose gold cases Combining titanium and sapphire, the Striking Tourbillon Sapphire and Striking Papillon Tourbillon go for a futuristic look Cementing themselves as an unquestionable champion of fashion-brand-turned-high-end-watchmakers, Bulgari has been … ContinuedThe post Bulgari’s Precious and Striking Tourbillon models present three variations of the complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko TAG Heuer Lange Apr 2, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep.43: Rolex, Tudor, Oris, and More From Watches & Wonders 2023

It’s time. That’s right, it’s episode 43. The most special number. Why? Well, this A Week in Watches is coming to you from the halls of Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. Since it’s a different venue, and there were a lot of launches, we took a slightly different approach. More, shorter stories, and more hosts! Yep, this episode has Blake Buettner, Zach Kazan, and Zach Weiss. What do we cover? Lots of stuff. Rolex, Tudor, Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer, Lange, and Oris, so buckle up. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week in Watches Ep.43: Rolex, Tudor, Oris, and More From Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified Time+Tide
Apr 2, 2023

The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified

The new BA111OD CHPTR_Δ introduces hypocycloidal time-telling. Olivier Mory, who built the cheapest Swiss-made tourbillon, was involved with the in-house BA111LOD 09310 module. For only US$2,620, it’s an incredible value proposition for a technical Swiss luxury watch. BA111OD have only been around since 2019, but there seems to be no limit to their ambition of … ContinuedThe post The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

4 Radical Red Watches From Omega, Bell & Ross, Rado, And Oris – Reprise Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross Oris Rado Apr 2, 2023

4 Radical Red Watches From Omega, Bell & Ross, Rado, And Oris – Reprise

In recent years, the world of high-end watches has become a far more colorful place. We have evolved from decades of conservatism in which a blue dial was daring to a kaleidoscopic era where anything is possible. And now red arrives, which has the advantage of a richness of hues. Here Martin Green looks at four new red-dialed watches from Bell & Ross, Oris, Rado, and Omega.

The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class Time+Tide
Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class Apr 1, 2023

The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class

The teasers pretty much confirmed it – Rolex is finally paying attention to the Cellini! Well, as it proves year in, year out, the rumours are only sort of true. Rather than a revised Cellini, Rolex is presenting an entirely new model – the Perpetual 1908, marking the beginnings of a new collection. If you … ContinuedThe post The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Rolls Royce Phantom II” Apr 1, 2023

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Having covered the notable from independent watchmaking and complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction on April 5, we turn to timepieces that are all about artisanal crafts, ranging from cloisonné and marquetry. Amongst the highlight is a Patek Philippe Dome Clock depicting the African savannah in cloisonné and another is the Cartier Tortue ref. 2496 with the jeweller’s signature panther motif. Important Watches I takes place on April 5, 2023. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2101: Cartier Tortue LM Panthere This wristwatch two enduring elements of Cartier design, a form case and the panther motif. It’s a large-size Tortue – French for “turtle” – with a panther on the dial in champleve enamel. The large variant of the Tortue (instead of the oversized “XL”), this measures 34 mm in diameter, giving the dial ample real estate for the panther. The panther’s visage is executed in champlevé, where the dial base is first engraved with the motif before being painted and fired. This is powered by the cal. 430 MC, an ultra-thin manual mechanical movement that is actually the Piaget cal. 430P. Accompanied by its box and papers, this has an estimate of HK$200,000-300,000, or about US$25,000-38,200. You can find out more in the catalogue. Lot 2131: Audemars Piguet “Rolls Royce Phantom II” Before becoming synonyms with the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet (AP) produced a diversity of elaborately decorated wrist- and pocket watc...

Rolex Introduces the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX Titanium Ref. 226627 SJX Watches
Tudor the Tudor Pelagos 39 is very Apr 1, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX Titanium Ref. 226627

Ever since Rolex discreetly revealed the one-off Yacht-Master in titanium made for Olympic sailor Sir Ben Ainslie, enthusiasts have been waiting for the commercially-available equivalent (which got all the more likely after the release of the Rolex Deepsea Challenge last year). And now Rolex has finally done it with the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. Similar to Sir Ben’s watch but with the addition of a date and matching titanium bracelet, the Yacht-Master 42 is perhaps the most restrained sports watch in the current Rolex catalogue.  Initial thoughts Being a long-time fan of the Yacht-Master line, I’m glad to see this has finally arrived. Though large in size, it’s lighter and consequently more wearable. The muted colours and finish give it a no-fuss, contemporary look that sets it apart from the usual sports Rolex, but it retains the recognisable Yacht-Master style with its relief bezel. Perhaps the recognisable look is the only aspect to critique: the watch is little changed in terms of design from past Yacht-Master models (which were mostly in precious metals). The option of a rubber strap as seen on Sir Ben’s watch, for instance, would have given the Yacht-Master collection some variety. At CHF13,400, the Yacht-Master 42 is priced reasonably relative to other Rolex sports models. However, compared to the all-titanium offerings from Tudor – the Tudor Pelagos 39 is very, very similar – this is less of a value proposition, but it is still a Rolex. A mo...