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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.

Franck Muller Introduces the Cintrée Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive SJX Watches
Franck Muller Introduces Sep 14, 2020

Franck Muller Introduces the Cintrée Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive

A pioneer in independent watchmaking, Franck Muller was most famous for its graceful tonneau-shaped case but the brand was also particularly productive with complications in the 1990s and early 2000s. Amongst its most notable inventions were the double-face chronograph and whimsical Crazy Hours. But the brand’s technical creativity was present at the other end of utility spectrum as well – something exemplified by the Master Banker, a wristwatch unveiled in 1993 that boasted three separate time zones, each with independent hours and minutes. Now the watch has been given a new lease of life as the Cintrée Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive, that’s available in two case sizes, seven distinct colours, and various case materials, including steel, rose gold, and diamond-set rose gold. Initial thoughts Although powered by a humble ETA base movement, the Master Banker is a surprisingly accomplished complication, yet smartly constructed to be simple and robust. The time zone complication is practical for tracking times in multiple countries, but it is rarely instantly legible, especially when multiple time zones are displayed. With two largish sub-dials – each with their own hour and minute hands – the Master Banker solves the problem instantly. Not only is it legible, each of its sub-dials can be set to time zones with unconventional offsets – like 45 minutes for Kathmandu – allowing the watch to track any time zone in the world. The only downside of the display ...

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary SJX Watches
Cartier Santos or Ebel – Sep 14, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary

Originally just a model name for the bestselling watch of the brand MDM (short for Montre des Montres), Hublot got off the ground with one of the “it” watches of the 1980s that a first in combining yellow gold with a rubber strap. The brand is now 40 years old and a global success thanks to a late-in-life rejuvenation. To commemorate the occasion – which chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe hinted at in January – the brand has unveiled the sleek and simple Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary modelled on the original Hublot wristwatch of 1980. Minimalist in style, the anniversary watch sticks to the restrained look of the maritime-inspired original – hublot is French for “porthole” – but is substantially larger to cater to modern tastes. And like the original it is available in 18k yellow gold – combining the precious metal and rubber was a novelty in 1980 – but also in titanium or black ceramic. The 1980 model in steel (left) and the anniversary edition Initial thoughts While modern-day Hublot watches are often maximalist and sometimes over the top, the anniversary Classic Fusion is the opposite, a look that works well with the case and bezel. The 1980 original was a compact, pared-back watch that was at odds with the fashionable watches of the era – think two-tone Cartier Santos or Ebel – and proof that less is more. The dial of the remake sticks closely to the original, with a white-on-black date that is a welcome improvement. But the addition of ...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 14, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph

Last year’s debut of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet was widely panned, with with most of the criticism centred on the dial that was widely regarded to be flat. That left the highlight of the new model to go unnoticed – a new case made up of an intriguing blend of geometric forms and intricate edges. Just after launching warmly-received variants with smoked dials (following last year’s Bolshoi edition in smoked-finish enamel), Audemars Piguet has taken the covers off the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, which follows the aesthetic direction set by the record-setting Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”. Initial thoughts Audemars Piguet did well in combining two classical complications – a flyback chronograph and flying tourbillon – in a surprisingly contemporary and slightly sporty watch, which owes its looks to the complementary movement and case design. The skeletonised movement echoes the clean, angular lines of the case and open-worked lugs. A newly-developed movement – and one seemingly designed from ground-up as a skeleton – the cal. 2952 is thoughtfully constructed with a neatly symmetrical layout. As important is the high-contrast finish that emphasises the skeletonisation, achieved with rhodium-plated bridges against a matte-black base plate. The styling of the watch addresses the key shortcoming of the original Code 11.59 – the plain dial – and allows the Code 11.59 to come into its own with a cohesive des...

Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO In ‘Tenet,’ The First Action Spectacle In Theaters Post COVID-19 Lockdowns Quill & Pad
Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO Sep 12, 2020

Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO In ‘Tenet,’ The First Action Spectacle In Theaters Post COVID-19 Lockdowns

'Tenet' is not the first time Hamilton has collaborated with wristwatches on a Christopher Nolan movie; the first was The Murph created for 'Interstellar' back in 2014. And like 'Interstellar,' 'Tenet' uses time as one of its main themes, running like a gold thread through the complicated plot. Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at the Navy Khaki BeLOWZERO models that Hamilton created as a prop and as a limited edition release.

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, a pinnacle of complexity within the range Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Sep 12, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, a pinnacle of complexity within the range

Close to being at a loss for words … almost thankful that I haven’t got this on my wrist for a hands-on review as I would not leave the house. Email to Director: Self-imposed lockdown initiated, reason - the new Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph needs a full 10 days of attention, all … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, a pinnacle of complexity within the range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Vintage-Inspired AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition, Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II, and Chronomat B01 42 Bentley: Do They Hit The Mark? Quill & Pad
Breitling Vintage-Inspired AVI Ref 765 Sep 11, 2020

Breitling Vintage-Inspired AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition, Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II, and Chronomat B01 42 Bentley: Do They Hit The Mark?

With no travel for GaryG over the last COVID-19-restricted months, he has been grateful for opportunities to add variety by handling some of this year’s new watches. And recently Breitling lent Gary three of its new re-edition watches. He shares his thoughts and stunning photos of these new Breitling models here.

Laine Watches Introduce the 13ZN Chronograph Piece Unique SJX Watches
Longines 13ZN chronograph movement while Sep 11, 2020

Laine Watches Introduce the 13ZN Chronograph Piece Unique

Best known for his affordable, customisable watches, Torsti Laine recently completed a chronograph that was several years in the making. Commissioned by one of his earliest clients, the Laine Watches AKIL13ZN Piece Unique reimagines a fabled Longines 13ZN chronograph movement, while still retaining originality in style and substance. The watch is powered by a vintage 13ZN movement that was rejuvenated by Mr Laine and matched with a newly-made case and dial inspired by chronographs of the 1930s and 1940s. Initial thoughts Even though the watch is a one-off that will not be repeated – Mr Laine is no longer making chronographs – it is a well-executed realisation of the owner’s vision that is worth a quick look. And it was also done at reasonable cost, illustrating Mr Laine’s focus on excellent but affordable watchmaking. The aesthetic is clearly vintage inspired, but done with an eye for detail that clearly came from a collector. Elements like the arrow-shaped hand on the minute register, or the large, flat crown, are small yet important in establishing the pleasing, period-correct look. Notably, the movement is nearly identical to how it was when it left the factory, having only been modestly modified. This is contrary to current tastes in refinishing vintage movements to a modern standard, but it is sensible in both aesthetics – the vintage-inspired dial and case suit the movement well – and also cost, since extensive decoration is not necessary. The watch is ...

How To Train A Dragon: Jaquet Droz Collaborates With John Howe, ‘Lord Of The Rings’ and ‘The Hobbit’ Illustrator And Conceptual Artist Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Sep 10, 2020

How To Train A Dragon: Jaquet Droz Collaborates With John Howe, ‘Lord Of The Rings’ and ‘The Hobbit’ Illustrator And Conceptual Artist

John Howe, the Canadian-born book illustrator and conceptual artist, is best known as one of two chief conceptual designers for the 'Lord of the Rings' film trilogy by Peter Jackson as well as 'The Hobbit' trilogy. He has also illustrated other items based on the timeless story by J.R.R. Tolkien and other well-known genre classics like 'Game of Thrones' and 'The Chronicles of Narnia: The Lion, The Witch, and the Wardrobe.' And now Howe is working on illustrations for Jaquet Droz watches!

Ressence Introduces the Type 3MC Unique Piece SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces Sep 10, 2020

Ressence Introduces the Type 3MC Unique Piece

Just months after a one-off Ressence was sold at auction to benefit the medical research department of a Belgian university, the brand has announced another philanthropic wristwatch, this time in association with Art in Time, a watch retailer in Monaco owned by Chopard. A unique piece Type 3MC is remarkably red – the primary colour of the Monegasque flag – elevating the sleek, contemporary style of Ressence to a striking new level. Initial thoughts With part of the proceeds going to the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, a charity dedicated to ecological and social issues, the Type 3MC is a departure from the usually low-key look of the brand, as seen on the recent olive green Type 1 for instance. The red makes the rest of the dial less obvious, but there are other, more subtle colours, including the off-white markings and hands as well as orange and pale blue. Already an extremely impressive watch in design, concept, and execution, the Type 3MC will appeal to anyone who finds the standard versions too plain. And the fact that is a unique piece to benefit a good cause helps in accepting the price, which is steep, not to the the point of being exorbitant, but steep nonetheless. Two in one Colours aside, the Type 3MC has all of the standard Ressence tech, including a dial capsule filled with oil that refracts light, resulting in the optical illusion that of the dial being printed on the underside of the crystal. The oil also serves as a lubricant for the time-dis...

3 explosive quotes from emerging industry leader and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Rolex, Baselworld and the future Time+Tide
Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Sep 10, 2020

3 explosive quotes from emerging industry leader and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Rolex, Baselworld and the future

Cometh the crisis, cometh the man. Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari, has grown in stature yet again over the last six months as Bulgari has taken a militant stance against COVID-19. Whether it’s delivering Bulgari hand sanitiser to hospitals to assist in their fight against this deadly virus, or delivering a fair with 16 of … ContinuedThe post 3 explosive quotes from emerging industry leader and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Rolex, Baselworld and the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Self-Winding in Pink Gold and Blue SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Sep 9, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Self-Winding in Pink Gold and Blue

Relaunched in 2016 after a major revamp, Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas luxury-sports watch has since been expanded to include various complications, most notably the recent ultra-thin, skeleton perpetual calendar. The mix of a pink gold case and blue dial has been used extensive throughout the line, primarily on complicated models, but the fashionable combination has now been applied to the base model with the Overseas Self-winding in Pink Gold and Blue. Initial thoughts Blue dials have become the archetype for the luxury-sports watch, so the new watch is sticking to a well-established formula. The dial on the new Overseas is quite captivating, largely owing to the use of a brighter blue than usual. Also familiar is the combination of a blue dial and pink gold case, which creates a rich yet sporty look. The combination would be arguably be more appealing if it were applied to the ultra-thin model, which was once in the catalogue but is temporarily discontinued. Priced at a little over US$46,000, the Overseas in pink gold is a contestant in a highly competitive arena, with the primary rivals being the similarly-priced – but far more difficult to obtain – Nautilus and Royal Oak. The two rivals have a slightly longer history, but all of the watches offer similar value in terms of intrinsic quality; the Overseas is very good at what it does. Refined and modern The Overseas Self-Winding has all of the details that characterise the 2016 redesign that resulted in a cleane...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” SJX Watches
Casio n It has Sep 9, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange”

The base model in the “Homage to F. A. Lange” 175th Anniversary Collection is the 1815 Thin Honeygold, a slim, time-only watch that’s a restrained, formal-dress watch. Though the simplest watch in the 175th anniversary line up, the 1815 Thin also the best variation of Lange’s ultra-thin watch. The standard version of this watch is the Saxonia Thin, a watch that’s a little staid. The anniversary “Thin”, on the other hand, has been reworked with a new, larger case as well as fired enamel dial dial – an extra rarely found on accessibly-priced Lange watches. Initial thoughts The 1815 Thin is notably appealing, not so much for its thinness, but how well it has been executed despite being minimalist. The standard Saxonia Thin is overly plain, but the 1815 Thin manages to be compelling, mainly due the slightly larger case and fired enamel dial. And the 1815 Thin is also affordable as limited edition Lange watches go. The 175th anniversary trio Simple done right Made of two parts, the enamel dial sticks to the pocket-watch inspiration of the 1815. At 38 mm by 6.3 mm, the case is slightly larger and thicker than that of the Saxonia Thin (which is 37 mm by 5.9 mm), in order to accommodate the enamel dial. The movement is the same L093.1 found in the Saxonia Thin, but as with the rest of the anniversary watches, it’s been dressed up for the occasion. It has a frosted finish on the three-quarter plate as well as black-rhodium filling for the engraving on the bala...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” SJX Watches
Casio n all three are Sep 9, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange”

Conceived to mark the brand’s founding in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, the “Homage to F. A. Lange” 175th Anniversary collection is the centrepiece of A. Lange & Söhne’s debuts at Watches & Wonders 2020 in Shanghai. The commemorative line up is made up of three watches – spanning the price spectrum – all featuring Honeygold cases, special movement decoration, as well as dials that are new in either colour or material. And appropriately for the occasion, all three are from the 1815 line – named after the birth year of F. A. Lange –  that is characterised by a pocket watch-inspired aesthetic with Arabic numerals. The flagship of the anniversary collection is the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange”, a 50-piece limited edition variant of one of the most complex wristwatches made by Lange – it’s detailed below. The other two watches are explained in separate stories: the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold, and the more affordable 1815 Thin Honeygold. The 175th anniversary trio (from left): 1815 Thin, 1815 Rattrapante, and Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold As with the 165th anniversary watches of 2010, the new commemorative trio is entirely in Honeygold – including a Honeygold dial for the Tourbograph Perpetual. A gold alloy exclusive to Lange, Honeygold is a cross between rose and yellow gold. Because of its difficult nature, the metal has only ever been used for limited-edition watches because of its scarcity and price. According to Lan...

How Languedoc Winemaker Gérard Bertrand Became The World Leader In Biodynamic Viticulture Quill & Pad
Sep 8, 2020

How Languedoc Winemaker Gérard Bertrand Became The World Leader In Biodynamic Viticulture

“You don’t need a glass of wine to stay alive,” winemaker Gérard Bertrand states. “When you drink a glass of wine, it’s for pleasure, emotion, or sharing. We don’t have to make any more compromises with nature, the soil, or subsoil. My philosophy is to respect the ecosystem, biodiversity, and to leave a better planet for the next generations.” The so-called prince of Languedoc has been instrumental in elevating the image of this winemaking region. Find out how and why here.

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Sep 8, 2020

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph

Having relied on external suppliers for its chronograph movements since the very beginning, Richard Mille has just unveiled its first in-house chronograph calibre in the RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph. Ironically, the “Lifestyle” model name doesn’t do justice to the new CRMC1 movement within. Like most high-end chronographs, the CRMC1 has a column wheel as the one-off switch for the stopwatch, but in a novel twist, it has a pair of oscillating pinions to connect the chronograph wheels to the timekeeping gear train. Initial thoughts Richard Mille’s bestselling chronograph is the RM 11, which is powered by a modular calibre made up of a Vaucher base and a Dubois-Depraz module, making it uninteresting from a technical perspective. The new RM 72-01 is the opposite: it’s powered by a new movement that features a patented construction for the chronograph. Though the innovation in the movement is incremental – essentially reinterpreting existing ideas – it is still original. At the same time, the RM 72-01 is a notably compact watch for a sports chronograph, which should leave it sitting low on the wrist. In fact, the wearability of the RM 72-01 should trump the already excellent ergonomics of most Richard Mille watches. And perhaps most surprising is the price. It costs about the same as the RM 11, but boasts a clearly superior, proprietary movement. Even though the RM 72-01 is an extremely expensive watch – the base model costs about US$185,000 – it...