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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)

Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Interview: Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Recently Oct 31, 2022

Interview: Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin

Recently in Singapore for The Anatomy of Beauty, an exhibition dedicated to Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking over the decades, Christian Selmoni has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the brand. Now the brand’s Style & Heritage Director, Mr Selmoni joined Vacheron Constantin (VC) in January 1992. His tenure of almost 31 years has given him an innate sense of the brand and its philosophy as well as a wide-ranging perspective on its timepieces over the years. We had a chat with Mr Selmoni to hear more about the brand’s most interesting creations, ranging from the 22”’ observatory-certified tourbillon movements of the 1920s to the modern-day Celestia grand complication. The interview was edited for length and clarity. SJX: The Singapore exhibition has a good selection of the complicated, historical, and artisanal. What’s your favourite out of all that? Christian Selmoni (CS): It’s a tricky question, but one that immediately comes to my mind – the 22”’ tourbillon because I love this this calibre. VC made the movement in the 1920s; around 20 movements were sent for observatory contests. Once the contests were over, the movements were put in a tray somewhere. Then at the beginning of the 1990s, we made six or seven pocket watches with 22”’ tourbillon movements that had been totally refurbished and decorated. They were made for John Asprey in London. All of the [Asprey pocket watches] were unique, either in material or decoration, and some were set with ge...

Is the Vacheron Constantin 222 becoming the new celeb favourite? Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin 222 becoming Oct 31, 2022

Is the Vacheron Constantin 222 becoming the new celeb favourite?

Recently Patek Philippe ushered in their next era of the Nautilus with the new 5811/1G. The Nautilus, along with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, has long been a celebrity favourite to own and wear. Vacheron Constantin meanwhile have not always enjoyed the same success in garnering the attention of the rich and famous. Lately though, … ContinuedThe post Is the Vacheron Constantin 222 becoming the new celeb favourite? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet cooks up something special with its Damascus steel case Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet Oct 31, 2022

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet cooks up something special with its Damascus steel case

Steel is a ubiquitous metal within the watch industry, but leave it to Hublot to find a twist that makes the commonly used metal much more interesting. Damascus steel, and its unique appearance, is routinely found in the best kitchen knives in the world. Now Hublot has used the intriguing metal in their new Big Bang … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet cooks up something special with its Damascus steel case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe Oct 31, 2022

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition

Having recently reopened Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), a “concept” store dedicated to independent brands, Singapore retailer Sincere commissioned limited editions from several watchmakers to mark the event, including the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe in purple. Following that, SHH has unveiled another finely decorated time-only wristwatch, the Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition. With Breguet numerals on the front and a natural escapement on the back, the SHH Edition is classical but given a contemporary aesthetic with a gradient mint green. Initial thoughts A store with 19 brands on its premises, SHH certainly has a diversity of watchmaking on offer. But amongst its most technically accomplished time-only watches are the creation of Laurent Ferrier. Seemingly plain-vanilla on the front, the brand’s Micro-Rotor is tells a different story on the reverse. The movement revives Abraham-Louis Breguet’s escapement from two centuries ago, while the automatic winding mechanism is elaborately executed. It is a watch that is easily appreciated by collectors who appreciate history and chronometry. Like most collaborative editions, the SHH edition retains the flavour of the original, but with enough tweaks that it appeals to the target audience, namely watch enthusiasts who like classical design. While many of the dial details are familiar, they are combined in a coherent and restrained manner. The effect is subtle but significant. When I first encounte...

MICRO MONDAYS: Our favourite watches from the past 6 months Time+Tide
Oct 31, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Our favourite watches from the past 6 months

Starting Micro Mondays was originally about shining a light on some of the great independent watchmakers who have been able to be supported through the miracle of crowdfunding and other means. These brands were unbound by design restrictions or the necessity to please established fanbases. Instead they had the freedom to revive a stagnant watch … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Our favourite watches from the past 6 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Watches & Wonders Becomes More Accessible SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 30, 2022

Business News: Watches & Wonders Becomes More Accessible

In a long anticipated move, the organisers of Watches & Wonders – now the world’s most important luxury-watch fair – have just revealed the 2023 exhibition will be open to the public on its final two days. The event takes place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023, so the public days will be on the first two days of April. Simultaneously, the organisers also debuted the Watches & Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF). According to the announcement, the decision to create the foundation was taken by Rolex, Richemont, and Patek Philippe. Both the public days and WWGF are evidence that the Geneva giants, Rolex and Patek Philippe, now have a lead role in the city’s major watch fair. Historically that position was occupied by Richemont, the luxury group that owns a stable of brands ranging from Cartier to IWC. New titles for Messrs Dufour and Perrin The WWGF will “organise… watch and jewellery exhibitions, in Geneva and beyond… and define the major strategic areas of this ambitious project.” Most notable is the fact the the WWGF will be chaired by Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, while its deputy chairman is Emmanuel Perrin, head of Richemont’s watch division. Though unstated, it is implied that the WWGF succeed the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), which was long the organiser of SIHH and also of this year’s W&W;. Though technically independent, the FHH was regarded by the industry as being dominated by Richemont. Anyone can now walk the ha...

Attention! Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec with their latest creation Time+Tide
Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec Oct 30, 2022

Attention! Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec with their latest creation

What is a field watch? What is a diver? Those two questions can be answered in so many ways, depending on who you ask. Yet, there are instances when the answers to such questions are highly defined and set in stone. Such is the case when dealing with Mil-Spec watches. Mil- Spec, short for military … ContinuedThe post Attention! Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec with their latest creation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fly-By Death: 5 Skull-Themed BR 01 Timepieces By Bell & Ross - Reprise Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross s unique BR 01 Oct 29, 2022

Fly-By Death: 5 Skull-Themed BR 01 Timepieces By Bell & Ross - Reprise

Bell & Ross’s unique BR 01 Instrument stole the spotlight at its launch in 2005 thanks to its unusual circle-in-a-square case, becoming an instant hit. The BR 01 was then used as a jumping-off point for a variety of designs, beginning in 2009 with the then-trendy skull motif – which in Elizabeth Doerr's eyes was a perfect addition. How has the skull motif evolved at Bell & Ross? Find out here!

The new Polo Vintage 67 offers a timeless aesthetic and 90 hours of power reserve for under $3K (Live Pics) Time+Tide
Bulgari previously associated Oct 28, 2022

The new Polo Vintage 67 offers a timeless aesthetic and 90 hours of power reserve for under $3K (Live Pics)

Fashion brands wading into the world of watchmaking generally elicit scoffs from watch connoisseurs. But there are “fashion watches” and then there are quality watches fashioned by brands known for fashion. Just look how far Bulgari – previously associated with their jewellery and fragrances – has come over the last few decades. Ralph Lauren is … ContinuedThe post The new Polo Vintage 67 offers a timeless aesthetic and 90 hours of power reserve for under $3K (Live Pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: WatchTime, Windup, a chiming Speedy and Accutron’s 62nd birthday Time+Tide
Accutron s 62nd birthday Watch Oct 28, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: WatchTime, Windup, a chiming Speedy and Accutron’s 62nd birthday

Watch collectors from far and wide gathered in New York City this week for an itinerary packed with watch-related events. You had the RedBar Global Meetup, WatchTime NY, and Worn & Wound Windup fairs all jam-packed into the space of seven days – giving watch lovers in the area lots to do. It may have … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: WatchTime, Windup, a chiming Speedy and Accutron’s 62nd birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Speake-Marin celebrates their 20th anniversary with a gold dial Ripples Anniversary Edition Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Oct 27, 2022

Speake-Marin celebrates their 20th anniversary with a gold dial Ripples Anniversary Edition

When an anniversary comes along for a brand, it is almost obligatory for them to release a special-edition watch – which is great news for us. The Speake-Marin Ripples watch made waves upon its debut as the brand’s first entry into the steel-sports category. In celebration of their 20th anniversary, we now have 50 pieces … ContinuedThe post Speake-Marin celebrates their 20th anniversary with a gold dial Ripples Anniversary Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 27, 2022

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide

To a newcomer, deciphering the world of timepieces can be an intimidating endeavor, and identifying the different types of watches presents a particular challenge. What distinguishes, say, a dive watch from a pilot watch, a quartz watch from a mechanical watch, a dual-time watch from a world timer? What are all those subdials and scales on the dial for? Do I need to change the date on my watch, and if so, how often? In this rundown of the various types of watches, we strive to answer the big questions (and/or link to another article that does).  Quartz vs. Mechanical vs. Automatic While watches vary widely in their styles, genres, and capabilities, they all fall into one of two major categories based on the type of movement inside them. Generally, with a few notable exceptions that we’ll touch upon, a watch is either “mechanical” or “quartz.” Mechanical watches further subdivide into two basic types: manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to periodically wind the watch via the crown to keep it working; and automatic (or “self-winding”), in which the movement’s mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight that swings with the natural motions of the wearer’s wrist. On the other hand, a quartz movement (as explained much more thoroughly in this article), replaces the mechanical movement’s traditional mainspring barrel with a small battery whose electrical charge passes via an integrated circuit into an oscillating tuni...

Baltic Introduces the MR01 “Perpétuel” SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Oct 27, 2022

Baltic Introduces the MR01 “Perpétuel”

Despite being just two years old, Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel has unveiled a string of its own special editions, starting with Baltic in 2020, the year Perpétuel was founded. The retailer has once again turned to the French brand for the third collaborative edition between the two. This time it’s a twist on Baltic’s best-selling micro-rotor wristwatch, the MR01. As is expected, the MR01 “Perpétuel” has all the elements associated with the Arabian Gulf, namely Eastern-Arabic numerals on a green dial. Initial thoughts The MR01 is already appealing in its original iteration, especially considering the price, but the Perpétuel edition includes several details that makes it that much more special. Though a green dial with Eastern-Arabic numerals is no longer novel, it’s uncommon on a watch as affordable as the MR01. The Perpétuel edition brings these design elements to new or young enthusiasts, or anyone on a budget really, a laudable achievement. But it’s also limited unfortunately. Though the run is far more generous than past editions – this is limited to 300 – the affordability means it will have a large audience. Everything all at once The MR01 manages to pack several desirable, old-school design elements into a compact, 36 mm package. Yet it remains impressively clean and fuss free. For instance, the movement is a micro-rotor automatic made by the Hangzhou Watch Factory (we explained the calibre in our MR01 review), hence the affordability. This ...

Five of Zach’s favourites from WatchTime NY 2022 Time+Tide
Oct 27, 2022

Five of Zach’s favourites from WatchTime NY 2022

There is a lot of ground to cover, so I will try to be brief. Last week I attended WatchTime NY 2022, a horological candy shop for those who love all things watches. The participating brands brought some of their latest and greatest watches to get hands-on with, and there were too many I loved … ContinuedThe post Five of Zach’s favourites from WatchTime NY 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’ SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava refs 565 Oct 26, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’

An Austrian independent watchmaker specialising in honest and appealing watches, Habring² has just unveiled its latest jumping-seconds wristwatch, the Erwin “THC School Piece”. Based on the brand’s signature time-only watch, the School Piece is fitted with a two-tone dial that features familiar elements combined in an unusual manner. It sports ever-popular olive green, but only for the chapter ring that features Breguet numerals. Having a 1930s vibe thanks to the dial, the School Piece was unsurprisingly born of a request by a group of Asian collectors with an eye for vintage wristwatches. Initial thoughts Neither overly vintage nor too modern, the School Piece is arguably just right. The design blends details that are common but manages to do so at a coherent manner, resulting in something different that stands out from most Habring² creations – a feat considering the that most of the brand’s limited runs are vintage-inspired watches. The styling should allow the School Piece will speak to enthusiasts across the collecting spectrum. Vintage-watch enthusiasts will appreciate the hints of the Patek Philippe Calatrava refs. 565 and ref. 570. While those who follow modern watchmaking will like the two-tone dial with a prominent green ring that gives the dial more flair than the typical vintage-style watch. And then there are the Breguet numerals that almost everyone likes. While the School Piece is certainly appealing, there are arguably too many iterations of...

In Conversation with Christian Selmoni on The Anatomy of Beauty Revolution
Vacheron Constantin exhibition currently running Oct 25, 2022

In Conversation with Christian Selmoni on The Anatomy of Beauty

At a recent preview of a new Vacheron Constantin exhibition currently running at the ArtScience Museum, Wei and Jeremiah met with Christian Selmoni, the brand’s Style and Heritage Director to talk about what makes Vacheron one of the coolest brands out there today, and our ‘Brand of the Year’ for 2022. ‘The Anatomy of Beauty’ […]

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina PAM01501 “Kids Horizon” SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Oct 24, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina PAM01501 “Kids Horizon”

Historically a maker of military dive watches, Panerai has since evolved into a maker of distinctively-styled sports watches encompassing complications and precious metal cases. The watchmaker has just revealed an all-gold version of its trademark dive watch as a unique piece conceived for a good cause and a special occasion, the Luminor Marina Automatic PAM01501. Engraved to indicate it’s a one-off creation, something Panerai rarely does, the PAM01501 will go under the hammer during the upcoming charity gala dinner for Kidz Horizon Appeal, a Singapore-based charity that funds medical treatment for children from disadvantaged backgrounds, which will take place on October 29, 2022. The PAM01501 is engraved with “1/1” on the back Initial thoughts The PAM01501 is a metallic olive green – certainly a familiar colour. But keep in mind Panerai was one of the first brand to utilise green as a dial colour, most famously for the Submersible Bronzo a decade ago. This happened well before the current fad for green dials, so Panerai is sticking to historical precedent rather than jumping on the bandwagon. In fact, the green dial and rose gold case brings to mind the original Bronzo, which had a similar palette (before it developed a patina). But the crucial point is that the PAM01501 distinguishes itself by being a unique piece, and one for a good cause no less. For the kids Founded in 2004, Kidz Horizon Appeal (KHA) is a Singapore charity that supports children with chroni...

Visiting Mühle Glashütte, the Last Family-Owned Watch Manufacture in the Heart of German Watchmaking Revolution
Mühle Glashütte Oct 23, 2022

Visiting Mühle Glashütte, the Last Family-Owned Watch Manufacture in the Heart of German Watchmaking

Revolution USA Editor-in-Chief Bhanu Chopra sits down with Christian Fischer, Marketing Manager of Mühle Glashütte, to talk about the last 20 years of the brand’s most iconic tool watch, the S.A.R. Rescue-Timer. Mühle Glashütte is the only remaining family-owned watch manufacture in the German town of Glashütte and is currently managed by the sixth generation […]