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Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

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Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Review Teddy Baldassarre
Raymond Weil Jan 19, 2024

Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Review

Raymond Weil, founded in 1975 by its eponym and now owned and operated by the Bernheim family, is one of only a handful of independently owned Swiss watchmaking companies, alongside historic, prestigious maisons like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The Geneva-based company, however, occupies a different niche than those two high-horology powerhouses, having firmly established itself as a purveyor of “affordable luxury”  - producing well-designed watches with wide appeal that nevertheless rarely gain attention in the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. That all changed in 2023, however, when the sublimely refined design of the brand’s Millesime Small Seconds model took the coveted Challenge award in the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève (GPHG), the watch world’s equivalent of the Oscars. With its sober but meticulously embellished sector dial and slender case, the watch represents a throwback to a style of understatedly elegant dress watch that few seem to be making anymore. I had a chance to wear one for a couple weeks for a hands-on review. (To get Teddy's video take on the watch on our dedicated Reviews channel, click here.) Case: The round stainless steel case of the Millesime (the term comes from the world of fine wine, and appropriately translates to “vintage”) will settle perfectly into many enthusiasts’ sweet spot, at 39mm in diameter, and its thickness of just under 11mm (10.9mm, to be super-precise) will ensure that it set...

Hands-on – The Rectangular Moritz Grossmann Corner Stone in Rose Gold Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Jan 19, 2024

Hands-on – The Rectangular Moritz Grossmann Corner Stone in Rose Gold

In 2019, Moritz Grossmann ventured into the scarcely populated territory of rectangular watches, unveiling three dial variants in five different versions as part of the Art Deco-inspired and appropriately named Corner Stone series. The Corner Stone featured a specially designed shaped calibre with a central hour and minutes display and a small seconds sub-dial at […]

Industry News – Richemont Reports Sales up by 8% For Third Quarter, Jewellery Taking the Lead over Watches Monochrome
Cartier IWC JLC Jan 18, 2024

Industry News – Richemont Reports Sales up by 8% For Third Quarter, Jewellery Taking the Lead over Watches

Switzerland-based luxury conglomerate Richemont Group has just issued its trading update for the nine months ended 31 December 2023. The group, which includes brands such as Cartier, IWC, JLC and Vacheron, reports sales up by 8% at constant exchange rates and by 4% at actual exchange rates to EUR 5.6 billion for the last quarter […]

Zenith’s First New Release of the Year is a Pair of Blue Dialed Boutique Editions from their Pilot Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith s First New Release Jan 17, 2024

Zenith’s First New Release of the Year is a Pair of Blue Dialed Boutique Editions from their Pilot Collection

After a period of relative quiet in the watch industry over the holidays, as we head into mid-January it’s clear that we are not being fully launched into New Release Season, with news coming across our desks about watch releases from some of our favorite brands. Some we can share now, and some will have to wait, but it’s clear whatever respite we had between Thanksgiving and New Years is, well, completely over. First out of the gate among the big Swiss luxury brands is Zenith, with news about an addition to their Pilot collection, which was their big launch in 2023.  The Pilot collection took us by surprise last year. After several years of focusing on the Defy and Chronomaster lines, it felt like a left turn of sorts. But Zenith is rightfully incredibly proud of the Pilot and the heritage it represents. Zenith trademarked “Pilot” in 1904, and is famously the only watchmaker who can use the word solo on a watch dial. The watches we saw last year represented a new twist on a format we know well. They aren’t regurgitations of a historic reference, but feel like a modern realization of an aviation themed watch with contemporary proportions and materials.  The new boutique editions seen here take the Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback and add blue dials, offering an alternative to the jet black seen on last year’s collection. According to Zenith, the shade of blue seen on these dials is meant to evoke the night sky as seen by a pilot, but blue is a commo...

Oris Introduces Cricket-Themed Big Crown Pointer Date SJX Watches
Oris Introduces Cricket-Themed Big Crown Jan 17, 2024

Oris Introduces Cricket-Themed Big Crown Pointer Date

Oris gives its signature model a subtle makeover with the Big Crown Father Time Limited Edition, a collaboration with Marylebone Cricket Club (MCC). This release commemorates the pair’s three-year collaboration that began in 2022 and combines a 40 mm bronze case with a creamy white dial. Initial thoughts The Big Crown Father Time is best described as a cricket-themed variation of the bronze Big Crown Pointer Date. The cricket element, however, is subtle and practically absent from the dial, which is not a bad thing since it gives the watch the widest possible appeal. Setting aside the cricket theme, the contrast between the dial elements and the dial itself is appealing. The watch stands out in terms of legibility due to this contrast. The cathedral hands and extra-large crown add a nice touch that evoke vintage Oris models. And though I’m typically a fan of fluted bezels, this one works well. This is equipped with a Sellita SW 200-1 instead of an in-house movement. However, with a retail price of US$3,100, it is still acceptable value. “Father Time” Sitting on top of the clock tower, Father Time is the weathervane at Lord’s Cricket Ground and was gifted to MCC in 1926 by architect Sir Herbert Baker. Because Lord’s is the “Home of Cricket”, and the MCC once the sport’s governing body, Father Time is one of the globally recognised symbols of the sport. The Big Crown Pointer Date, on the other hand, is synonymous with Oris. Introduced in 1938 as a pilot’...

The Marlin Jet is a Sleek New Addition to a Classic Timex Collection Worn & Wound
Timex Collection Jan 16, 2024

The Marlin Jet is a Sleek New Addition to a Classic Timex Collection

The 1960s stands out as one of the most influential decades in shaping modern design and culture. Two decades into post-War America, the ’60s embodied hope, opportunity, and expansion. This transformative era not only aimed for the moon but also ushered in a jet-setting culture that offered a fresh, futuristic perspective on classic mid-century design. Drawing inspiration from this dynamic period, the Marlin Jet, the latest addition to the Marlin line, encapsulates the essence of the ’60s. True to the Marlin lineage, the Jet seamlessly blends contemporary and retro design elements into a versatile daily-wear timepiece. With a modest 38mm size, this watch effortlessly transitions from day to evening, fitting under a suit jacket or hoodie without losing its sense of style. Beyond its brushed 38mm stainless steel case, the Marlin Jet’s allure lies in the domed Hesalite crystal, a defining feature that adds a new dimension to Timex’s retro-futuristic vision. This crystal spans the entire top surface, smoothly integrating into the flat case sides and leaving only the lugs exposed. The transition from the case sides to the case back mirrors the crystal’s dome, creating a coherent case profile and adding significantly to an aesthetic that is reminiscent of what “futuristic” looked like in the Jet Age. Additional design highlights include the silver-white concave dial, featuring a crosshair pattern and a 24-hour format sub-dial beside the 9 o’clock marker, bringing...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve with Subtle Updates Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances Jan 15, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve with Subtle Updates

Many in the watch community are predicting that 2024 will be year where we see a wider adoption of avant-garde and modern design as the pendulum continues to swing away from vintage inspired classicism. This is a good thing, and worth celebrating. But there will always be a market for elegant, classic designs. The kind that have been nailed down and perfect for decades, and define the “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” mentality. There isn’t a brand out there that is more in tune with this style of watchmaking than Jaeger-LeCoultre. Similar to Rolex, they iterate slowly, and don’t adhere to the (false) notion that buzzy new releases are required as part of an industry cycle. They just kind of do their thing, and it almost always results in a beautiful object. Their latest, the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, is familiar in many ways but has several small changes that make it even more refined.  Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra thin watches are a niche of a niche unto themselves. For years, even before the current Thinness Wars really took shape, JLC has been adept at getting the best possible performance from impossibly thin movements, and taking advantage of their diminutive dimensions by housing them in exceedingly well designed watches that take full advantage of their size. For the new Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, JLC’s Caliber 938 has been reworked slightly to increase the total power reserve to a healthy 70 hours without drastically changing the movement...

The Wild New Behrens Orion One Worn & Wound
Behrens Orion One Behrens 2012 Jan 15, 2024

The Wild New Behrens Orion One

Behrens 2012 is one of the most exciting young brands working in the ever growing affordable avant-garde space. Based in China, Behrens has developed a cult following as of late, riding primarily on the strength of the impressive “Ultralight,” a futuristic design that is typical of their house aesthetic, weighing in just 20 grams. Given the Ultralight’s impressive specs and unique design, the $7,600 price tag feels almost like a bargain, but a look through the Behrens catalog reveals that they have a number of gems at prices that are truly affordable. Their latest watch, the Orion One Automatic, is a little more approachable in terms of price point, but is perhaps the brand’s most outlandish design yet. It’s yet another example of a watchmaking aesthetic that was previously reserved for six figure timepieces working its way down into the affordable segment.  The case of the Orion One recalls something between a spaceship and what you’d see under the hood of a modern supercar. It’s the kind of thing that barely resembles a watch, at first, but reveals its form and complexity as you observe it. The first thing you notice is likely the array of gears under the sapphire crystal window at the top of the case, where you’d normally find a dial. Here, the only time telling function is a running seconds hand at the center.  Time is read through a “twin roller” time display system at the 6:00 position. It’s fairly intuitive, but in a position that you’re li...

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 Twenty twenty-one Jan 15, 2024

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001

Twenty twenty-one was an important year for Grand Seiko as it saw the introduction of the brand’s latest-generation mechanical movement, the cal. 9SA5. A modern movement with attractive aesthetic and proprietary escapement, the cal. 9SA5 debuted in the Heritage “White Birch” SLGH005. But Grand Seiko didn’t stop there. Building upon the flagship calibre, Grand Seiko created the cal. 9SC5 and launched the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. A large, sporty watch but entirely in lightweight titanium, the Tentagraph is a milestone for Grand Seiko (GS) as the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph. “Tentagraph” is self-explanatory, an acronym outlining the key features of the watch and cal. 9SC5 within: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph has all the tactile features expected in a modern, high-spec sports chronograph, namely substantial proportions and crisp, smooth pusher action. As expected for GS, it boasts high quality finishing inside and out, with the case in particular having category-leading finishing and detailing. And from a technical perspective, it is notable for being the high-frequency chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market – the balance runs at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and the power reserve is 72 hours, or three days. Aesthetically, the Tentagraph is refreshingly modern. It retains the characteristic GS design, but tweaked to accentuate the sport...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the Sopranos Turns 25, Rolling Stone Ranks the Best Sci-Fi, and the Best Gadgets from CES 2024 that You Can Buy Right Now Worn & Wound
Jan 13, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the Sopranos Turns 25, Rolling Stone Ranks the Best Sci-Fi, and the Best Gadgets from CES 2024 that You Can Buy Right Now

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com The Sopranos Turns 25 This week marked a major anniversary for Sopranos fans – it’s been 25 years since the show premiered on HBO, and quite literally changed television forever (mostly for the better, we’d argue). There’s been no shortage of retrospectives this week looking back on the show, its stars, and the many amazing TV moments we’ve all enjoyed over the course of 6 seasons and too many rewatches to count. But one of our favorite pieces this week was found in the New York Times, and focuses on the distinctive production design and real New Jersey locations used for filming. There was a level of authenticity that was always apparent in the The Sopranos that felt markedly different from other mafia stories told on the screen, and a huge part of that is the cast (made up largely of local NJ and NY actors with Italian ancestry) and the lived-in, familiar locations. Check out the story here. The 150 Greatest Science Fiction Films, According to Rolling Stone Whatever you think of the modern incarnation of Rolling Stone, you have to admit one thing: they have become experts at...

Just A Minute With The Seiko Presage Style 60s GMT Worn & Wound
Seiko Presage Style 60s GMT Jan 12, 2024

Just A Minute With The Seiko Presage Style 60s GMT

“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more videos just for you! Today’s feature is a special GMT watch from Seiko’s Presage line. Positioned as a cut above standard Seiko watches, the Presage line offers a more premium feel and quality at a still-approachable price. While much of the lineup is focused on dressier pieces, there are sportier gems like today’s example, The Presage Style 60’s GMT, that manage to toe the line between utility and elegance. Check out the video below for our take on Seiko’s mid-century inspired GMT. If you are interested in any of the Seiko Style 60s GMTs mentioned in today’s chronicle, visit the link here. You can also schedule a consultation at our Brooklyn Offices to try one out in person. “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more videos just for you! Today’s feature is a special GMT watch from Seiko’s Presage line. Positioned as a cut above standard Seiko watches, the Presage line offers a...

Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” into Regular Production SJX Watches
Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” Jan 12, 2024

Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” into Regular Production

After implementing the all-black aesthetic only in limited editions, Seiko has revived the Prospex Black Series but now as part of the standard catalogue.  Based on familiar models from the current lineup – the Prospex Sea “Turtle” diver (SRPK43) and the Prospex Speedtimer solar-powered chronograph (SSC923). Whilst the monochromatic black-on-black palette is a favourite for sports watches, the standout feature of the new pair is the green luminous paint on the hands and indices that has a retro feel, being reminiscent of the luminous radium applied to watch dials for most of the 20th century. Initial thoughts It’s gratifying to know the once limited Black Series is now accessible as part of the regular product line, since it’s an appealing, affordable sports watch. Admittedly this will be disappointing to some owners of past models that were limited editions, but it is not surprising considering the success of the earlier versions from 2017 and 2020. As for the watches themselves, the green Lumibrite on the hands and markers is the key differentiating factor, with the rest of each watch having the same design and dimensions as their standard steel equivalents. A useful extra would have been additional strap or bracelet options for a wider range of looks, particularly since all-black watches are now often paired with high-contrast straps. The Speedtimer is priced at US$700, while the Turtle retails for US$725. Each cost slightly more than the standard steel vers...

40 Best Minimalist Watches - A Complete Guide for 2024 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 10, 2024

40 Best Minimalist Watches - A Complete Guide for 2024

The concept of minimalism has become an attractive idea in our modern world of excess.  For many, the term has been elevated to a point where it embodies a lifestyle of drawing bold lines betweeb what is deemed necessary and what is superfluous. Still, the term tends to get thrown around loosely; often,  describing an object or process as "minimalist" seems to indicate an absence of thought put into it. Among the areas where the idea of minimalism is best expressed is through the world of industrial design and watches. Watches, despite not being necessary tools at they level they once were, are still objects whose design needs to be in service of a specific function. When these worlds of aesthetics and utility meet in an exceptionally clean and legible fashion, the pinnacle of horological minimalism is achieved; it's not less for the sake of less, but the least possible to do the job. In this buying guide, we have compiled a list of the best minimalist watches that should be on your radar. The degree to which each of these pieces sustains the levels of minimalist principles previously mentioned vary, but all of them succeed to a point in their approach to tackling their inherent function. A Few Ground Rules We are not going to be able to cover every watch in the industry but plan to add to this list in the future. Secondly, the idea of what constitutes something as “minimalist” is subjective, however, we will be using the themes previously addressed as wel...

10 Watches That Don't Tell Time? Look a Bit Closer Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 9, 2024

10 Watches That Don't Tell Time? Look a Bit Closer

By definition, watches, no matter whatever else they might do in addition, are made to tell time. As a rule, the vast majority of watches do this in analog fashion with the use of two rotating hands, one for the hour, the other for the minute, often with an additional hand to track the running seconds. But every so often, you’ll run across the proverbial exception that proves the rule - a timepiece whose design is so radical, so outside the mainstream in design, that at first glance (sometimes even at the second or third) it appears that you can’t read the time on it at all. Even most of these avant-garde pieces, however, have been designed with the purpose of timekeeping in mind, even if this basic function is overshadowed or reduced to an aesthetic afterthought by the more spectacular elements the watch offers. Here is a selection of 10 very interesting watches (actually, nine watches and one example of high-end wrist-worn art), most of which actually do tell you the time - as long as you know how to read them. F.P. Journe FFC F.P. Journe founder Francois-Paul Journe teamed up with legendary Godfather director Francis Ford Coppola to conceptualize and produce the original FFC watch, a unique piece in a tantalum case that fetched $4.93 million at the 2021 Only Watch auction, becoming the highest-selling F.P. Journe watch in the indie brand’s nearly 25 years of existence. Journe added a platinum-cased model to its regular collection in 2023 with the same visual...

Introducing – The New Yema Urban Sport Trilogy Brings Back Three of the Brand’s Icons Monochrome
Yema Jan 9, 2024

Introducing – The New Yema Urban Sport Trilogy Brings Back Three of the Brand’s Icons

While the Superman, a skindiver piece, is by far the most emblematic model of French watchmaking brand Yema, three other names might ring a bell to some enthusiasts. All designed as professional instruments in the late 1960s or early 1970s, the Flygraf (pilot’s watch), Rallygraf (driver’s watch) and Yachtingraf (regatta watch) are now deeply rooted […]

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Omega Seamaster Ploprof Jan 9, 2024

Missed Review: the Omega Seamaster Ploprof

The Omega Ploprof is one of the most interesting, iconic, and discussed of all dive watches. Its unusual design is unlike any other diver, and the watch itself has a rich and storied history. When it was introduced in 1970, it was originally conceived as a no-compromises tool for saturation divers. Since then, the Ploprof has evolved into a cult item. It’s still used, of course, for technical diving purposes by dive professionals, but in the years since Omega relaunched the watch in 2009, it’s also become a talisman of a very particular type of dive watch nerdery. It’s one of the most “inside baseball” watches Omega makes, and is beloved by enthusiasts for all of the reasons many in the general public would walk right by it.  In this Missed Review, Blake Buettner explores the unique qualities of the Ploprof that make it special. Its unique design elements (the unusual case shape, a prominent crown guard system, the large orange button on the case flank, etc) are all there for very specific reasons rooted in the Ploprof’s extremely specific utility. Blake also gets into the history of the watch, and how this modern version (in titanium) differs from historical versions in unexpected ways. Omega Images from this post: The post Missed Review: the Omega Seamaster Ploprof appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Nodus and The Smoking Tire’s Matt Farah Team Up for a Bold, Driving Inspired LE Worn & Wound
Nodus Jan 8, 2024

Nodus and The Smoking Tire’s Matt Farah Team Up for a Bold, Driving Inspired LE

Automotive inspired watches come in many different forms. There are watches that draw attention to aesthetic similarities between well understood components of cars and watches (dials that look like gauges on a dashboard, or even putting an automaker’s badge on the dial). And then there are watches that are, ostensibly, meant to be thought of as tools for motorsport – chronographs with tachymeter scales and the like. But there’s another category – the one I tend to prefer – that takes a more abstract approach. These are watches that are imbued with the feeling of driving in their design. Autodromo, of course, are masters at this. Their watches capture a driving aesthetic that doesn’t simply port over elements of vehicle design into a watch, and they use color and texture to evoke specific aspects of driving culture. The latest from Nodus, their second collaboration with automotive personality Matt Farah, is very much in that vein. The new Nodus Canyon in Sunset Orange follows the successful launch of the Mint colorway of the same watch last year (it sold out immediately to Farah’s Patreon subscribers). The watch, designed by Farah, is conceived as an everyday sports watch, with a 41mm stainless steel case that measures 11.5mm tall and 47mm from lug to lug. To look at the watch, you would not immediately clock it as automotive inspired, but it’s filled with subtle and personal details from Farah’s long history in the automotive world that will make it rewa...

Opinion: Why I Don’t Have a Grail Watch Worn & Wound
Longines or Oris Experiencing many Jan 8, 2024

Opinion: Why I Don’t Have a Grail Watch

I’ve always assumed that my affinity toward affordable watches was somewhat forced by circumstances. With limited funds in the watch bank at the start of my collecting journey, purchasing attainably priced timepieces was the only way I was going to fill more than one slot in my watch box. But years later, even as I find myself with a bit more disposable income, I can’t seem to escape the pull of a $500 watch. For me, nothing hits quite like a microbrand that is able to develop their own design DNA despite their access to the same 316L steel and 3rd party movements as everyone else. Offering those unique designs at accessible prices will never cease to impress me. A conventional journey for a collector might go something like this: Buy a Seiko 5, maybe an SNK809, to test the waters without breaking the bank. Then, when it’s financially responsible to do so, a collector might move onto an “entry level” luxury timepiece such as a Longines or Oris. Experiencing many watches and brands allows the opportunity to identify which watches evoke emotion. Often, as collectors continue to refine their taste, watches that kindle these feelings come with escalating prices. While each enthusiast has their own price range where they feel comfortable purchasing the watches they are drawn to, there is one category where we can (nearly) all find common ground: grail watches. I’ve seen a few definitions of this term over the years, ranging from dream watches we would never sell, to...

Bamford and Artist Jeremyville Start the New Year with a Limited Edition GMT Carrying a Positive Message Worn & Wound
Jan 8, 2024

Bamford and Artist Jeremyville Start the New Year with a Limited Edition GMT Carrying a Positive Message

If anyone thought brands might slow down when it comes to collaborative limited editions in 2024, the releases that are popping up in the first full week of the year would seem to disprove that notion. To that end, Bamford has just announced their first new release of the year, a new spin on their popular GMT format made in partnership with the artist and designer known as Jeremyville. The Bamford London x Jeremyville Limited Edition GMT is whimsical way to start the new year, featuring a well known character from the larger Jeremyville universe.  The Bamford GMT has proven to be a great platform for character watches – we saw not one, but two Snoopy GMTs released in the last few years – and this new release finds the Jeremyville “Earth” character taking center stage. If you’re not familiar with Jeremyville’s art, a brief primer is in order. Jeremyville’s art has gained popularity over the course of twenty years, and is both the moniker of the artist himself and the fictional world his characters inhabit. The themes expressed in his art are nearly universally positive, with a real focus on community and empathy, so a collaboration at the beginning of a new year, a time when everyone seems focused on positive change, makes a lot of sense.  The dial of the limited edition features the Earth character extending two arms, one of which is an hour hand (and displays a peace sign) and other is the minute hand (with fingers crossed). The GMT hand is represented by ...

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Chronograph “Year of the Dragon” SJX Watches
Casio nal special editions Jan 8, 2024

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Chronograph “Year of the Dragon”

Continuing with its occasional special editions to celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC has just released the Portugieser Chronograph “Year of the Dragon” to mark honour the Year of the Wood Dragon commencing in early 2024. This limited edition is essentially the classic Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 3716 but with a striking burgundy dial featuring gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts Burgundy dials on the Portugieser stand out as demonstrated by last year’s Portugieser Automatic 40, so it was inevitable to see it on the Portugieser Chronograph. The fact that this is a limited edition isn’t a big deal since IWC does a fair number of limited editions. But this specific watch, however, does look good. Whilst the design remains identical to the original, this has all of the dial elements in either gold-plating or powder-gilt print, which are more visually complementary than the combination of gold and black found on the silver dial of the standard steel model. The new look incurs an extra charge of US$950 in comparison to the standard production model, culminating in a retail price of US$9,350. While not a great deal by any means, it’s a reasonable premium, given the new dial and commemorative rotor. However, it is a limited edition of 1,000 watches, a substantial number given IWC’s scale, so the brand should have either reduced the premium or edition size to boost the appeal. The Portugieser Automatic 40 “Year of the Rabbit” from 2022. Image – IWC ...

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Review Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Jan 5, 2024

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Review

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut is one of the younger members in Patek Philippe’s historic family of timepieces but it has already gained an avid following and represents to many collectors the most accessible entrée into the Swiss watchmaker’s luxurious universe. Here is everything you need to know about the Aquanaut, from its origins to its current status as a versatile and wide-ranging collection. A History of Watchmaking Milestones Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now ubiquitous throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestones are the first annual calendar watch and the first wristwatches with perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. In 1932, brothers Jean and Henri Stern acquired Patek Philippe and the same year launched the watch that would become its signature, the Calatrava (above), inspired by the ancient Calatrava cross that had served as the maison’s logo since 1887. The following year, Patek Philippe made timekeeping history when it commissioned a record-setting complicated ...

Business News: New Faces at LVMH Watches, with Frédéric Arnault Taking Charge SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Jan 5, 2024

Business News: New Faces at LVMH Watches, with Frédéric Arnault Taking Charge

LVMH has just made official the long expected management reshuffle at its watch and jewellery division, with Frédéric Arnault named chief executive of LVMH Watches. Taking over from Mr Arnault as chief executive of TAG Heuer is Julien Tornare, who previously had the same role at Zenith. And replacing Mr Tornare is Benoit de Clerck, who was formerly the chief commercial officer at Panerai. Effective from the start of 2024, the management reshuffle at LVMH will likely be the first of several such moves across the industry over the next 18 months resulting from long-serving bosses retiring and a slowing market. New faces and new directions? Mr Arnault takes on a newly-created role that marks the beginning of the LVMH Watch Division – watches and jewellery were previously grouped together – which might mean more activity from the luxury giant’s trio of watch brands. He will report to Stephane Bianchi, the head of the LVMH Watches & Jewelry Division that also includes Bulgari. Mr Bianchi was reputedly recruited by LVMH owner Bernard Arnault to mentor the junior Arnault, and the pair have risen through the ranks of LVMH in tandem. Though the watch division is one of the smallest in the LVMH stable, Frédéric Arnault brings clout to the job, by virtue of both his name and experience. With a technical and quantitive background – he has a degree in applied mathematics – Mr Arnault raised the level of technical and industrial capabilities at TAG Heuer. Amongst other thi...

Review: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac Jan 5, 2024

Review: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon”

Arriving just as the Dragon year begins in February, the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon” is the latest illustration of the Geneva brand’s artisanal and technical capabilities, with a hand-engraved dragon sculpture on a grand feu enamel dial and an in-house calibre that indicates the time and calendar on discs. The “Year of the Dragon” is the final chapter in the brand’s Chinese Zodiac collection, an annual series of limited editions that began in 2012 with the rabbit. With the Chinese zodiac made up of a repeating 12-year cycle – with each year represented by an animal – the series reaches its conclusion with this dragon edition, which like its predecessors is available in either pink gold or platinum. Initial thoughts Dragon-themed watches have already started to proliferate with the incoming Year of the Dragon, simply because the dragon has the most universal appeal amongst all of the zodiac animals. It carries desirable symbolism across East Asia, as opposed to say, the rodent or pig, which have a niche audience. So the appeal of a dragon watch is arguably less about the motif, which is now common, but the execution. And here the Metiers d’Art “Year of the Dragon” excels in both presentation and technique. I’ve always been fond of Vacheron Constantin’s quadruple-disc display because it is both logical and attractive. The display makes sense because it leaves majority of the dial free fo...

Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Worn & Wound
Breitling s stewardship remains Jan 4, 2024

Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw”

Last year, Heinrich introduced an eye-catching dial in an all new case. Each of Heinrich’s watches up to this point have been described as vintage inspired with strong 70s vibes.The Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” is no different, with the dial taking fairly direct inspiration from Universal Genève’s Unisonic “Buzzsaw” tuning fork watch from the late 1960s and ‘70s. Whether we will see a reincarnation of this design from Universal Genève under Breitling’s stewardship remains to be seen, but if you are crying out for a funky dial design at an affordable price, this could be the watch for you. The Helicoprion name comes from an extinct genus of shark-like fish, which had a spiral of teeth in its lower jaw – the teeth increasing in size as it spiraled outwards. This creature, along with Heinrich’s latest watch, has also been dubbed the “Buzzsaw” due to the similar circular tooth configuration seen on the blade of a circular saw. While the Universal Genève reference also saw each tooth shifting to a darker or lighter shade as they increased in size, the Heinrich Helicoprion dial markings are presented in a single color as the teeth grow between each hour (or five minute) index. $558 Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 or Sellita SW200 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Beads of rice bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 40 x 47.8mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty ...

Top 5 GADA Watches Worn & Wound
Casio ns Over Jan 3, 2024

Top 5 GADA Watches

The concept of a “watch enthusiast” who owns, trades, and collects them for the love of the game is a relatively new one. It’s a far cry from our forebears, who often had one go-to watch for most of life’s occasions. Over the years, however, as watches have transitioned from being truly indispensable daily tools to totems of style and storytelling, the GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) moniker remains a popular label for watches that can fulfill the “do-it-all” role that was so commonplace in the last century. While few of us can imagine ourselves as true one-watch aficionados, it’s satisfying to own a timepiece that just always works no matter the occasion. The appeal of these watches is easy to understand: they’re usually durable yet stylish and offer great value by fulfilling multiple roles. Here are five options from the Windup Watch Shop that we would consider GADA favorites; rest assured they’ll be with you wherever your adventures take you. The concept of a “watch enthusiast” who owns, trades, and collects them for the love of the game is a relatively new one. It’s a far cry from our forebears, who often had one go-to watch for most of life’s occasions. Over the years, however, as watches have transitioned from being truly indispensable daily tools to totems of style and storytelling, the GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) moniker remains a popular label for watches that can fulfill the “do-it-all” role that was so commonplace in the last ce...

101 Best Men's Watches For Every Price Range in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 2, 2024

101 Best Men's Watches For Every Price Range in 2026

What are the best men's watches you can buy today? As with listing the "best" cars, wines, cookware, or mobile devices, answers will of course vary widely based on personal tastes, practical needs, and budgets. Whether your inclination runs to elegant and dressy timepieces that will impress your coworkers in the boardroom, or if you prefer a tougher, stylish-yet-practical watch that you can wear to the beach or the racetrack, or even if you're someone looking to fly your tech-nerd flag in your wrist, our massive compilation of the 101 best men's watches - incorporating brands and models nominated by various TB team members and covering numerous styles, price points, and categories - has you covered in just about every popular category. To keep it helpful, we arrange every category in ascending order of price. Our current compilation of the 101 Best Watches includes longstanding classics as well as watches released within the last year. Check back in for regular updates and/or additions to the list. CLASSIC CHRONOGRAPHS Bulova Lunar Pilot Price: $825, Case Size: 46mm, Thickness: 13.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 52mm, Water Resistance: 50m, Movement: Quartz Bulova 262kHz, Crystal: Sapphire The Bulova Lunar Pilot is an homage to the Bulova chronograph worn by U.S. astronaut Dave Scott on the Moon during the Apollo 15 mission. Visually, the new Lunar Pilot is a faithful recreation, retaining the curvy case shape and distinctive elongated pushers of the original. The dial i...

47 Best Watches Under $5,000 - A Complete Guide for 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 2, 2024

47 Best Watches Under $5,000 - A Complete Guide for 2025

We are back with another list of recommendations for the best watches you can get for a given amount of money. This time around, we will be looking at the best watches available for under $5,000, a crowded price point where the luxury watchmaking conversation really takes off. As we creep up on $5,000, we’ll be taking a look at luxury watch brands like Oris, Omega, Tudor, and a host of others, some of which may surprise you by their inclusion in this category. $5,000 is, objectively a lot of money, and we know you're looking for a lot of watch for your hard-earned coin. To aid you in your research, we have tried to include some popular, enthusiast-favorite watches as well as a few watches from brands you may be less familiar with. Before diving in, here are some ground rules: This list will be, by and large, strictly composed of watches with a retail price at or below $5,000. We'll also throw a few watches in at the end which retail for just a bit above $5,000 but can be found on the secondary market in our target price range. We’ve decided to further narrow our scope to watches with a starting price between $2,000 and $5,000. Again, we can’t possibly put every single watch in this price bracket on this list, but please feel free to refer to other guides on our sites, such as The Best Watches Under $1000, 30 Best Minimalist Watches and 25 Best Tool Watches, as they may have a watch or watches more to your taste, which is really what these lists are all about: to ...

Here Are the 28 Best GMT Watches You Can Buy in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 2, 2024

Here Are the 28 Best GMT Watches You Can Buy in 2026

Among all the functions offered by today's timepieces (we in the watch trade call them complications, because even the ones that look relatively simple, like a date in a window, involve a lot of complex micro-mechanics), the GMT or second time zone is one of the most practical and useful - especially as many of us are back in the habit, post-COVID, of spending time again in time zones other than our own - for business, pleasure, or some combo of both. Here we've gathered 28 of the best GMT watches on the market now for your perusal and your consideration if you're in the market for a ticking companion for your next trip. To narrow the list and keep it manageable, we are keeping it as much as possible to "pure" GMT watches, i.e., those with a GMT hand pointing at a scale rather than some other unconventional display, which unfortunately excludes models like the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone, Parmigiani Tonda Hemispheres, Arnold & Son Globetrotter, and any number of very creative high-end takes on a dual-timer. We've also left out world-time watches, GMT watches' more complex cousins that display all the world's time zones simultaneously (you can check out our list of world timers here) and multiple-complication watches in which the GMT function is paired with a chronograph, perpetual calendar, or other high complications (small complications like dates are OK). Finally, we included only watches with mechanical movements, which are more likely to appeal to a wo...