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Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph XV Limited Edition: The Restrained One

Glashütte Original's fifteenth limited Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date keeps things deliberately quiet. 100 pieces, German-speaking markets only, the in-house Calibre 37-02. Here's what actually changes for the XV.

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Glashütte Original Launches Two New Senator Chronographs for 2026, and They Could Not Be More Different

A cleaner dress flyback and a tool-watch navigator replace the outgoing Panorama Date models. Both are worth your attention.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Sep 19, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies

A compact take on the signature Panerai watch that made its debut in 2016, the Luminor Due is essentially a scaled-down version of the military-inspired original, which allows it to wear easily on smaller wrists. To date, the Luminor Due has remained minimalist, making do without complications save for a date display. But now Panerai gone for something slightly more elaborate with the Luminor Due Luna that has a small seconds and moon phase display featuring a solid-gold moon disc. Initial thoughts I like the compact size of the Due, as well as its more formal styling that allows it to double as a dress watch. Although the original, full-size Luminor is a clean, almost elegant design, its massive size and stark aesthetics means it can only be a military-style watch. The Due, on the other hand, manages to preserve the outline of the original Luminor while being modestly elegant. For that reason, the new Luna is an appealing watch. At just 38 mm wide, it is clearly more wearable, while the engraved, solid-gold moon gives it a bit of sparkle. And the all-gold model comes along with a mother of pearl dial, making it even more luxe. Interestingly, the Luminor Due is largely targeted at female clientele, but models have a masculine aesthetic. That continues with the Luna, which is available in steel with a metallic blue dial, a combination leaves it looking very much like a conventional men’s watch. The dial design is largely classical Panerai, although the proportions seem a...

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Guide Teddy Baldassarre
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 9, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Guide

The Lange 1 from German luxury watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne is an internationally recognized icon of modern watchmaking and the undisputed flagship of the Glashütte-based manufacture’s collection. And even though the Lange 1 has only been on the scene since 1994, the watch, and the company that makes it, trace their roots much further into history. From the pioneering watchmaker who jump-started a national industry in the 19th century, to his descendant that forged a new beginning for his family business in the 20th, to the evolution of a legendary watch into new and complex forms in the 21st, this the story of A. Lange & Söhne and the Lange 1. Ferdinand Adolph Lange & the Rebirth of Glashütte Few in the long history of watchmaking have had a more profound and lasting impact on a nation’s horological destiny than Ferdinand Adolph Lange had on that of Germany, whose industry is famously rooted in the town of Glashütte in Saxony. It was Lange (1815 - 1875), a native of nearby Dresden and a classically trained master watchmaker, who laid the foundations on which the struggling former mining town would build itself into Germany’s watchmaking center with the establishment of the original A. Lange & Cie. manufactory in 1845. Lange’s vision was not just for his own company but for the entire state of Saxony. When the apprentices that trained at his company had mastered their craft, he encouraged them to start their own factories and hire and train their own employees...

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Sep 8, 2022

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition

A “concept” store for high-end watches when it first opened in 2005, Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) closed its original location in the now-closed Hilton hotel in 2019. Three years on, Singapore retailer Sincere is reviving SHH at the city state’s landmark casino resort. To commemorate the event, SHH has unveiled several limited editions created in collaboration with independent watchmakers led by the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition. A watch with twin balance wheels linked by a differential, the SHH edition is housed in the streamlined “Convexe” case that defines the Greubel Forsey’s sports watches. But unlike the brand’s sports watches to date, this is striking in an ultra-contemporary purple livery that’s uncommon for such a complicated watch. The rationale behind the juxtaposition of bold colours and refined complications is straightforward according to Sincere chief executive Ong Ban. “For the new generation, watches go with their dress and the younger ones want… [watches] that go with sneakers or hoodies,” explains Mr Ong, “But while the cosmetics evolve over the years, but the essence of finely executed movements remains the same.” Even the titanium main plate of the movement is finished in purple Initial thoughts The new Double Balancier is a haute horlogerie sports watch in an eye-catching colour and the requisite integrated strap that will no doubt draw a new audience to the brand. While Greubel Forsey (GF) wat...

Sincere (Re)Opens SHH Concept Store in Singapore SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey H Moser & Cie Sep 7, 2022

Sincere (Re)Opens SHH Concept Store in Singapore

With edgy decor that set it apart from a typical luxury-watch store of the period, the inaugural Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) in Singapore’s Hilton hotel was one of the world’s first “concept” stores dedicated to high-end mechanical watches when it opened in 2005. After a run of well over a decade, the original SHH store closed in 2019, but the format has now made a comeback at Marina Bay Sands (MBS) casino complex. Located along a stretch of the mall dominated by watch and jewellery brands, the new SHH once again focuses on niche and independent brands. Its stable of brands total 19 and include Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie., Laurent Ferrier, Parmigiani, and Ferdinand Berthoud. Reboot and revive Being amongst the first retailers in the world to offer brands that were then just startups but would go on to do great things – Sincere took on Franck Muller in 1992, Lange in 1995, Panerai in 1998, and F.P. Journe in 2000 – SHH was a logical progression of Sincere’s retail strategy in the early 2000s. “[SHH in Hilton] was meant to be a touch point for very fine mechanical watches and high end brands,” says long-serving Sincere chief executive Ong Ban, “At the same time, it was also a launchpad for what we thought were the future stars of the industry.” Projects like the first SHH helped established Sincere as one of the three biggest watch retailers in Southeast Asia, alongside Cortina Watch and The Hour Glass. But after several changes in ownership, S...

INTRODUCING: Tudor gives the people what they want with new 39mm Pelagos Time+Tide
Tudor gives Aug 30, 2022

INTRODUCING: Tudor gives the people what they want with new 39mm Pelagos

Finally! Look, I have always felt the Pelagos is one of the strongest dive watches on the market. But, afflicted with slender wrist syndrome, the size, while it could work for my wrist, was not optimal. While many enjoy the original 42mm Pelagos, and for good reason, others have shared my sentiment – the people … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Tudor gives the people what they want with new 39mm Pelagos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Balancier Convexe SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Aug 29, 2022

Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Balancier Convexe

Having made its debut in Greubel Forsey’s watches a decade ago, the world time is one of the brand’s distinctive complications with its large titanium globe. While the original iteration of the world time wristwatch came to an end last year with the all-black final edition, Greubel Forsey has taken the covers off its successor, the GMT Balancier Convexe. The three-dimensional world time sphere has been retained, but almost all else has been redesigned on the new model. Beside adopting the streamlined aesthetics of the brand’s bestselling sports watches like the Balancier S2, the display now has local and world time arranged concentrically in a traditional, Louis Cottier-style display in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Despite its complex looks and US$400,000 price tag, the GMT Balancier Convexe is relatively simple for a Greubel Forsey. In fact, it’s the brand’s first world time watch without a tourbillon. As a result, the new GMT is as much about design as mechanics. The GMT demonstrates how GF is implementing its sports watch styling across practically all of its line-up. The GMT has a streamlined “Convexe” case and does away with the asymmetrical bulge traditionally used to accommodate the globe. Because of its curved profile and hidden lugs, Convexe case allows the GMT to pass as a moderately sized watch despite being 46.5 mm in diameter, allowing it to wear smaller. To go along with the sporty case style, the dial has been given a new look. ...

The Best Seiko 5 Sports Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko 5 Sports Watches Aug 26, 2022

The Best Seiko 5 Sports Watches

The Seiko 5 watch series traces its roots all the way back to 1963, when the Japanese mega-brand introduced the original Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a groundbreaking timepiece that ushered in the emblematic “five attributes” that define the vast collection today. These include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet made of durable materials. Stylistically, the watches run the gamut from dress pieces to field watches to divers, with all kinds of variations in between (the current shorthand descriptions are Sense, Specialist, Sports, Suits, and Street). Seiko 5 watches still adhere to those five principles initially laid out more than half a century ago while still retaining the famously inexpensive price points that have made them so desirable - from under $100 to the neighborhood of $500 for the more exclusive editions. Seiko 5 watches - rebranded in the collection’s relaunch in 2019 as Seiko 5 Sports, despite offering this diversity of styles - have a worldwide fan following, with many JDM (Japan Direct Market) models highly sought after by American collectors due to their scarcity. And for many a budding watch collector of modest means, a Seiko 5 watch is the gateway drug to a full-blown timepiece obsession. Here we spotlight some of our favorites.  SRPC65 “Bottlecap” Reference: SRPC65, Price: $150-$250, Case Size: 45mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Lug-to-L...

Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display Time+Tide
Hamilton s digital darling has Aug 23, 2022

Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display

First released in a gold and red variant echoing the 1970s original, the PSR has seen numerous iterations over the last two years. We covered two blacked-out models at the start of the year, one of which had close ties to another reboot – the Matrix franchise. The new Hamilton PSR with a green hybrid … ContinuedThe post Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero SJX Watches
Aug 18, 2022

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

Short for “Franc Vila Founder”, FVF is a tale of redemption. Founded by the namesake designer, FVF is the second act of the Spanish watch designer, one he embarked on after his first went off the rails as many independent watch brands tend to do. FVF’s inaugural watch is the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. It’s an original look and at a glance there’s nothing linking it to the creations of the original Franc Vila brand – a good thing in my estimation. But look closely and hints of the earlier designs emerge. Most importantly the FVF1 reveals itself as an impressively executed watch – the movement has an interesting construction, excellent finishing, and an original aesthetic. Mr Vila has made his comeback in style. NB: The watch pictured is a prototype that’s been worn so it shows wear. The FVF1 has a flying tourbillon, roller day indicator, day and night display, and a 100-hour power reserve Rising from the ashes Born in Valencia but now a longtime resident of Switzerland, Mr Vila founded his namesake brand in 2005 and rode the wave that buoyed modern, flamboyant independent watchmaking for the next decade or so. Propelled by Mr Vila’s convivial personality, Franc Vila became one of the hot brands of the era. During those heady days, it could sell several dozen tourbillons and minute repeaters a year, making it one of the top clients of now-defunct complications specialist BNB Concept. A classic from the original Franc Vila brand, the Tourbillon Planèta...

Equation of Time Introduces the Fat Arrow Collaboration SJX Watches
Omega Jul 25, 2022

Equation of Time Introduces the Fat Arrow Collaboration

Conceived sub-brand of RGM, one of the original independent watchmaker in America, Equation of Time is a maker of affordable watches often created in collaboration with collectors, with the latest being the Fat Arrow Collaboration Watch. The dial of the watch reproduces a 2015 artwork created by watch photographer Atom Moore that’s a riff on the pilot’s wristwatches supplied to the Royal Air Force in the 1950s by brands like Omega and IWC. Like the military-issue originals, the Fat Arrow Collaboration is a compact, hand-wind timepiece with the feel of a vintage remake, but st apart with a dial that’s clearly modern and definitely original. Initial thoughts The Fat Arrow Collaboration (FAC) is one of many watches inspired by vintage military timepieces, but it is cleverly different. It utilises the historical arrow emblem used to mark British military equipment as a decorative element. Mr Moore’s original artwork, Fat Arrow, is an artistically-altered photography of a CK 2777 “Fat Arrow” wristwatch, one of many that Omega supplied to the Royal Air Force starting in 1952. The FAC retains the feel of the vintage original with an identically-sized case, but with Mr Moore’s Fat Arrow mashup as the dial. That makes the FAC different enough, in fact, to be interesting despite being a no-frills watch. Fat Arrow by Atom Moore The dial is covered with both the “Fat Arrow” and “Thin Arrow” in all their respective iterations. That might sound excessive, but ...

The 15 Best G-Shock Watches to Add to Your Collection Now Teddy Baldassarre
Casio G-Shock has represented perhaps Jul 22, 2022

The 15 Best G-Shock Watches to Add to Your Collection Now

Since its landmark release in 1983, the Casio G-Shock has represented perhaps the watch world’s purest expression of high technology blended with trendsetting style at a price accessible to just about everyone. Over its 40-plus years on the market, the original “world’s toughest watch” has become a brand all its own, with its own hardcore cadre of collectors, expanding into various designs in its digital, analog, and ana-digi versions; introducing new, cutting-edge technologies for its case and bracelet materials as well as its electronic timekeeping; and recently, even embracing the artisanal crafts of its native Japan for a series of special editions. In ascending order of price, beginning below $100 and reaching into the high four figures for the most exclusive, collectible pieces, here are 15 G-Shock watches available now that are worth adding to your collection (not to mention a few you’ll probably just want to wear a lot). G-Shock DW-5600E-1V Price: $69.95, Case Size: 48.9mm x 42.8mm, Case Height: 13.4mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Quartz The familiar and very affordable DW5600 version of the G-Shock is the model on the market now that most closely replicates the design language of the first G-Shock from 1983, aka the DW-5000. While it’s available in hundreds of variations (a few of them spotlighted below), the basic black rectangular model is what most people envision as the classic, no-frills G-Shock. Its durable resin case boas...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula Supersport delivers a reimagined Super Compressor diver at a great price Time+Tide
Jul 11, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula Supersport delivers a reimagined Super Compressor diver at a great price

There are plenty of watch brands that have been resurrected from the past. But Circula set themselves apart with their authentic German heritage and the benefit of original family ownership. Focusing mostly on high-quality mechanical watches at an attainable price, their latest release is a neat blend of modern functionality and vintage quirkiness in the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula Supersport delivers a reimagined Super Compressor diver at a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer Time+Tide
Ming clearer Jul 6, 2022

The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer

For years, in the circles I’m a part of, watch collectors have been asking a simple question. As watch prices continue to skyrocket, who in the bloody hell is buying pieces at these premiums? Premiums that are two, three, sometimes four times the original retail price. We all agree that there are ridiculously wealthy people … ContinuedThe post The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Introduces the Superocean Diver Inspired by the “Slow Motion” SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Jun 30, 2022

Breitling Introduces the Superocean Diver Inspired by the “Slow Motion”

Breitling’s recent releases have stuck to a familiar and effective formula – watches rooted in the brand’s heritage but updated to distinguish them as modern and original, exemplified by the redesigned Chronomat and Navitimer. Now the brand has taken the covers off the Superocean Automatic, a dive watch inspired by the SuperOcean Slow Motion chronograph of the 1960s. While it borrows the original’s two-tone dial and massive, oblong markers, the new Superocean is a clean, time-only watch with no complications and of course a modern construction that includes a ceramic bezel insert as well as quick-adjustment clasp. The SuperOcean Slow Motion ref. 2005 Initial thoughts I’ve always liked past versions of Superocean with bright-coloured dials because they were quite different from other dive watches without being overly fancy. By the same token, I like the latest version as the redesigned dial makes it stand out even more, once again without trying to do too much. No date is great In fact, the Superocean is arguably all about design. Being ETA powered, it is less competitive against offerings from similarly-priced offerings from likes of Tudor (which relies on more sophisticated Kenissi movements), so the Superocean has to excel in terms of look and feel. And it manages to do so with the combination of an extra-wide chapter ring around a “mini” dial, a bold and handsome design that is unlike most of its peers. Aside from the overall design, the dial also appe...

The Grand Seiko SBGP017 raises a refined middle finger to movement snobs Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGP017 raises Jun 22, 2022

The Grand Seiko SBGP017 raises a refined middle finger to movement snobs

Grand Seiko has found success in modernising their back catalogue, taking case design cues from the 1967 original 44GS and powering them by their latest movement technology. As the fifth instalment in the 55th anniversary of the 44GS series, the Grand Seiko SBGP017 continues this trend, though it brings previously seen elements together in fresh … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGP017 raises a refined middle finger to movement snobs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune x HG Timepiece: A Cerulean Hourglass Collaboration With Marc Newson Quill & Pad
De Bethune x HG Timepiece Jun 21, 2022

De Bethune x HG Timepiece: A Cerulean Hourglass Collaboration With Marc Newson

Marc Newson‘s original Hourglass was one of Joshua Munchow's favorite objects of the last decade. And now it’s back and as good as ever, only this time the collaboration is with independent boutique brand De Bethune because it is these artisans who possess the unique ability and knowledge to create the color necessary for the new blued nanoballs inside the shaped, tempered glass.

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Wolkov W22 shapes up with a truly innovative design Time+Tide
Jun 20, 2022

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Wolkov W22 shapes up with a truly innovative design

You’ve heard of square watches and rectangular watches. Even octagonal watches are essentially common these days. With around a century of experimentation since wristwatches were popularised, there’s not a lot of room left for brands to find something truly original, and yet Wolkov have managed it across all aspects of design. There must be hundreds … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Wolkov W22 shapes up with a truly innovative design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Blancpain wants you to know that it’s World Oceans Day Time+Tide
Blancpain wants you Jun 8, 2022

Blancpain wants you to know that it’s World Oceans Day

In 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms became the first modern dive watch that was readily available to consumers. Tackling the practical requests of French Navy combat swimmers, the original Fifty Fathoms set the default style for modern diving watches by offering guaranteed water resistance, a large 41mm case, a rotating timing bezel and a luminous … ContinuedThe post Blancpain wants you to know that it’s World Oceans Day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 2, 2022

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver

Historically a prominent participant – and winner – at observatory chronometer trials, Longines once had a stable of extra-precise, high-frequency movements, though the calibres have been long discontinued as were the chronometer competitions. Several decades later the watchmaker from Saint Imier pays homage to that history by reviving the Ultra-Chron, which is based on its namesake 1968 original but with a newly-developed high-beat movement contained within vintage-inspired, cushion-shaped case matched with a similarly retro steel bracelet. Initial thoughts The vintage Ultra-Chron is a good basis for a remake as it avoids being yet another vintage-inspired diver with a round case. While the design isn’t new, the cushion case distinguishes it from the competition, offering enthusiasts something less common. Personally, I like the functional, 1970s style of the Ultra-Chron; the red accents lend the watch the feel of an instrument. But going by how Longines has expanded the palette of the Legend Diver, additional, modern colours for the Ultra-Chron are a possibility (and a certainty if it sells well). But the new Ultra-Chron is notable not just for its style. Though the Longines catalogue has an impressive tally of historical remakes, all of its Heritage models to date contain standard movements identical to those found in the brand’s other models. The Ultra-Chron, on the other hand, stands out for the high-beat calibre that was developed specially for it (though t...

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Purple is not for shrinking violets Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer May 22, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Purple is not for shrinking violets

New for the western summer, Hublot is at it again with their latest colourful release, the Big Bang Unico Summer Purple. No strangers to bright hues, Hublot’s latest limited-to-200 Summer edition picks up where 2021’s original turquoise Summer model began. That first edition timed the recent mania for all things Tiffany-hued perfectly, but this season’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Purple is not for shrinking violets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date green is a fine take on a gentleman’s sports watch Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date green May 18, 2022

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date green is a fine take on a gentleman’s sports watch

Re-introduced in 2018 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the original, the buzzing Memovox Polaris, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s alarm-equipped dive watch, combined vintage charm with modern technology. In 2022, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date gets a lick of green paint in a boutique-only release, continuing the long line of compressor-style watches by “the watchmaker’s watchmaker”. Seafaring chameleon dial … ContinuedThe post The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date green is a fine take on a gentleman’s sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.