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Up Close: Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier recently revived Sep 23, 2024

Up Close: Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde

Having gone all in with the Tonda PF sports watch in the last couple of years, Parmigiani Fleurier recently revived its classic dress watch with the Toric Petite Seconde. Named after the model that launched the brand in 1996, the Toric Petite Seconde is a simple, three-hand watch. Despite its simplicity, the new Toric is expensively executed – the dial and hands are solid 18k gold, as are the bridges and base plate of the PF780 movement, a newly-developed manual-wind calibre. Style wise, the Toric takes after the earlier generation of the model and retains the signature knurled bezel, but presented in a minimalist manner with a wide, clean dial reminiscent of the Tonda PF. The platinum with a “grey celadon” dial (Editor’s note: The watches pictured are pre-production prototypes and consequently have imperfections in detail and finishing, including on the dial.) Initial thoughts Parmigiani accurately describes the Toric design as minimalist and the PF780 movement as modernist. And as expected of Parmigiani, the quality is excellent, inside and out. The Toric is dress watch but feels large at almost 41 mm in diameter, but the case stays thin at under 9 mm. Even though the Toric is obviously a dress watch, it almost also feels like a casual everyday watch because of the size, dial colours, and stock straps. I assume more formal dial colours like black in the pipeline; they would give this a decidedly different look. The case has the trademark knurled bezel, but is oth...

Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More Fratello
Breitling Sep 20, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we continue our exploration of legendary movements. For this list, we have selected five classics with the famous Valjoux 72. As you will see, this chronograph caliber powered some of the most legendary watches that horology fans love. That’s why creating a list of the five standout Valjoux 72-powered […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands-On With Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 Sep 20, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770

The Riviera 10770: Baume & Mercier’s Perfect Balance of Form and Function is now met with a brilliant emerald-green dial! What We Love: Exceptional dial design The movement offers a 5-day power reserve A smaller and slimmer case makes it more versatile. What We Don’t: The bracelet design is too plain for Riviera’s case finishing and dial design Lack of micro-adjustment on bracelet. Lack of colour options for secondary strap options (to colour match with the dial) Overall Rating: 8.95/10 Value for Money: 9.3/10 Wearability: 8.75/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.75/10 Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier, as a watchmaker, has long been known to have a deep-rooted passion for horology, reflected through their timepeices that show elegance and precision. Brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume founded Baume & Mercier, and the brand quickly found itself on the international stage with a reputation for creating watches of exceptional quality, earning them numerous awards for precision at international exhibitions. In 1918, Baume & Mercier further solidified its “luxury image” by bringing in Paul Mercier as a partner. Paul Mercier brought a modern vision to the brand, leaning more towards aesthetic innovation while still upholding the brand’s technical excellence. This philosophy of Paul Mercier laid the groundwork for future Baume & Mercier collections! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Baume & Mercier (@baumeetmercier) All-new Baume & Mercier Riviera 10...

First Look – The Very Red, Very Handsome Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry Monochrome
Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry Schwarz Etienne Sep 17, 2024

First Look – The Very Red, Very Handsome Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry

Schwarz Etienne, established in 1902, has a rich history as a movement and components supplier. Today, the brand stands out as one of the few manufacturers that produces its balance wheels and hairsprings. In recent years, Schwarz Etienne has also produced watches under its name, blending original designs with traditional craftsmanship. Noteworthy releases include the […]

First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Japan ‘Aiiro’ Limited Editions Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Japan ‘Aiiro’ Limited Sep 16, 2024

First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Japan ‘Aiiro’ Limited Editions

Presented in 1975, the Laureato was Girard-Perregaux’s proposal of a luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet, a round dial with an octagonal bezel, a tonneau-shaped case and a quartz movement. Produced three years after the Royal Oak but well before the Nautilus, the Laureato resurfaced in 2016 with limited editions followed by serial […]

First Look – The New Gold & Ceramic Breguet Type XX Chronograph (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Breguet Type XX Chronograph Incl Sep 16, 2024

First Look – The New Gold & Ceramic Breguet Type XX Chronograph (Incl. Video)

Probably one of the most emblematic pilot’s chronographs around, and an icon from the Breguet collection, the Type XX was revamped last year, with historic design cues and a high-end flyback movement. The comeback of this important and historically relevant model was made with two watches, one with military inspiration, the Type 20, and one […]

Rado Over-Pole Review Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rado Over-Pole Review Sep 16, 2024

Rado Over-Pole Review

In 2022, Rado re-released the Over-Pole as a limited edition of 1,965 pieces. The diameter remains as svelte as the original at 37mm. The height of the case is 10.4mm, and the lug-to-lug is 43mm. The lug width is 19mm, and it has a water resistance rating of 100m, though it does not have a screw-down crown. The case is fully polished. Interestingly, Rado chose to use a manually-wound movement for this reissue, rather than the automatic movement an original Over-Pole would have used. The movement is known as the Rado R862, and is modified from a Powermatic 80 found in other Swatch group watches. It has 80 hours of power reserve, and the Nivachron hairspring to increase its anti-magnetic properties. The movement is well finished, and can be seen through the watch’s transparent caseback.

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow WatchAdvice
Zenith  Chronomaster Revival Shadow Finally Sep 16, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow

Finally, the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow has a titanium bracelet to match! But can it change my mind on the ladder-style bracelet? Let’s find out! What We Love: Great movement specs and finishing Plenty of micro-adjustment holes for easy wear A sleek, sporty yet geometric design What We Don’t: The clasp isn’t as refined as it could be Ladder bracelet isn’t for everybody Retro styling may not suit all people’s tastes Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 “If You Know, You Know/IYKYK”: A phrase that I keep seeing being used all around social media. It’s a statement I often find used to infer that only a select amount of people know about a certain thing. It’s kind of cool and funny when done for inside jokes, but more often than not I see the term overused to gate-keep to an annoying degree. From withholding movie titles to restaurants – some people need to wake up and realise that buying Adidas Sambas, watching Set It Up or going to that poké place down the road doesn’t make you the main character of anything. Conversely, if used in moderation, it can make a community feel truly special and grateful to be a part of a tight-knit fan base. In that respect, I believe that Le Locle watch brand Zenith is the definition of an IYKYK community. I’ve not met a single Zenith wearer who doesn’t absolutely love Zenith – every single one who, upon mentioning my appreciation for their watch of choice...

Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More Fratello
Zenith Ebel Rolex Sep 13, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we enter the wonderful world of the El Primero movement. As most of you know, Zenith introduced its famous El Primero trio of watches in 1969. The brand was part of the illustrious race to release the first automatic chronograph, competing with Seiko and the consortium of brands formed […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More to read the full article.

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in Ceramic and Gold SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 10, 2024

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in Ceramic and Gold

First launched in 2021, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph now returns in an appealing combination of materials. The new model shares many similarities with its predecessor, namely the same case design and movement. But it’s now rendered in black ceramic and 18k white gold, matched with pink gold hands. Initial thoughts With the design having been refined over time, it is now clear that the negative reaction to the initial Code 11.59 collection was overdone. Granted, some criticism was justified with the original line-up, particularly for the time-only variants with plain dials (now replaced by guilloche). The most appealing versions of the Code 11.59 are the complications, particularly those with open-worked dials, like the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. The open working of the dial transforms what was a design weakness into strength. Not only does the open dial showcase the mechanics and finishing of the movement, but it also complements the large, contemporary case. The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph a watch executed excellently with little to criticise – except for the case dimensions, which could be more compact. The Code 11.59 design looks larger than it is, so the case wears larger than it measures. Although the price is only available on request, it is in the region of CHF250,000. It’s a big number but comparable to similar complications from Audemars Piguet’s rivals like Vacheron Constantin. But unlike the competition,...

Hands-on – The New Lederer Three-times Certified Observatory Chronometer Monochrome
Breguet s natural escapement Sep 9, 2024

Hands-on – The New Lederer Three-times Certified Observatory Chronometer

Independent watchmaker and proper horologist Bernhard Lederer has once again captured the spotlight in recent years, with the horological community admiring and discussing his Central Impulse Chronometer series. This collection of wristwatches features a unique movement designed by Lederer, regulated by a high-accuracy escapement inspired by Breguet’s natural escapement and George Daniels’ independent two-wheel, dual-impulse […]

Finally! Sinn Revives an Iconic Military Chronograph Worn & Wound
Sinn Revives Sep 9, 2024

Finally! Sinn Revives an Iconic Military Chronograph

Sinn fans rejoice; the Frankfurt favorite has finally released a watch we’ve all been waiting for. 156 is a number that most Sinn fans have memorized as it refers to one of the most excellent watches in the Sinn archives, not just because of its looks but also because of its lineage and movement(s). You see, the story of the 156 begins with a watch by a different brand altogether, the Heuer-Leonidas Bundeswehr 1550 SG, commonly called the “Heuer Bund.” image credit: analogshift.com A pilot’s chronograph used in the 60s and 70s mainly by the German airforce, though others as well, the Bund was a remarkable tool watch of its day. Powered by the manual wound Valjoux 22 and Valjoux 230 calibers, they featured flyback mechanisms and a clean, bold design with large lumed numerals and a particularly appealing bezel layout. Measuring 43mm in diameter and 13mm thick, they were huge for the era, though in keeping with pilot watch tradition. Helmut Sinn, the founder of Sinn, purchased old inventory of these watches in the 1980s, reconditioned them, added Sinn branding, and rebadged them as the Sinn 155 Bw. In the late 1980s, Helmut set out to create a new generation of military-issued pilot’s chronographs with the 156 by combining the case and general dial design of the 155/Bund with relatively new-to-the-market automatic chronograph movements by Lemania. Thus, the 156 is the direct successor to the Bund via the 155. My Sinn 156 – gone, but not forgotten The 156s most com...

New: Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Red Gold Deployant
Arnold & Son Sep 7, 2024

New: Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Red Gold

The Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon is a statement timepiece, with not only an aesthetically intricate design, but also an impressive purpose-built movement to match. The case size at 38mm is a delightful substitute to the previous 41.5mm version, especially for those with slimmer wrists. We like that the movement ‘fills up’ the case, visible from the case back, usually a hallmark of purpose built movements; specific movement for a specific case.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Classima WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Classima Somewhere Sep 7, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Classima

Somewhere in between dress and sports, the new Baume & Mercier Classima may be in a class of its own, but how does this piece traverse daily life? What we Love Classic and elegant looks The deep blue dial Has the right amount of wrist presence What We Don’t The rotor movement is a little noise The chronograph pushers are on the stiff side The crystal is on the thinner side, reducing the solid feeling of the watch Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 In a recent article, I delved into the history of Baume & Mercier, and the brand today, like many watch brands with almost two centuries worth of history, is different from the one started back in 1830 by the two Baume Brothers. Over the decades, and now centuries, it has evolved from a brand that was specialising in high complications and winning awards at The Kew Watch Trials, to being a solid mid-entry level player in the Swiss watch industry. This is a similar story to many others out there, and this is not a negative thing by any stretch, it’s just the way the world works – watches and other industries alike. William Baume and Paul Mercier, the founders of what is now known as Baume et Mercier, which evolved out of the original Baume & Co brand set up in 1830 by William’s Grandfather and Great Uncle. The pioneers of the brands and industries were just that, pioneers and the inventors of their time. Nowadays, you still need this, but more so, you need ...

H. Moser & Cie. Collaborates with Studio Underd0g on a Fruity Pair SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Collaborates Sep 6, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Collaborates with Studio Underd0g on a Fruity Pair

H. Moser & Cie. has often injected humour into its watchmaking and does so with its latest collaboration, a pair of watches conceived with micro-brand Studio Underd0g. Presented a box set of two watches, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavor Calendar Passion Fruit and Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit are designed around the same theme, namely passionfruit. Each watch, however, reflects the respective brand’s signature characteristics and price point. The Moser is a perpetual calendar with an in-house movement and fired enamel dial, while the Studio Underd0g is a Sellita-powered chronograph. Initial thoughts The collaborations in horology are sometimes uninspiring and dull. While MoonSwatch may be a commercial hit, or was a hit, it is precisely what one would expect from Swatch and Omega. However, the fruity duo from Moser and Studio Underd0g manage to be different, while retaining the brands’ respective identities. This is also one of the instances where a box set isn’t made up of repetitive or redundant watches. Though similar in colour, the two watches are substantially different, particularly in tactile feel. The owner can choose to wear either for different occasions or even gift one (probably the chronograph). Priced at CHF59,000 for the pair, the passionfruit editions are good value considering what would sell for individually. The Studio Underd0g would probably cost about CHF3,000, with the Moser accounting for the rest of the price, which is comparable to the re...

The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80 Arrives in Forged Carbon SJX Watches
Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80 Sep 5, 2024

The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80 Arrives in Forged Carbon

Well liked for its affordability and integrated-bracelet style, the Tissot PRX is now available in a novel material for the first time. The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic Forged Carbon has a lightweight case of carbon composite matched with an integrated rubber strap, and it is equipped with a no-frills automatic movement. Initial thoughts From an LCD digital to a Grendizer edition, the iterations of the PRX are endless, but the model is still appealing with its simple style and inexpensive price tag. Like its peers, the PRX Forged Carbon model is a functional watch with a monochromatic aesthetic matches the design perfectly. But it’s lighter than the steel versions of the model, and arguably more wearable. That said, carbon composite is not as durable as metal alloy, so this might not have the same easy robustness as the steel version. At US$995, this does cost more than the base model PRX, but it is one of the most affordable Swiss-made watches with a carbon composite case and automatic movement. No-frills fun The new PRX retains the style and dimensions of its steel counterpart. The case is 40 mm in diameter and a one-piece construction of carbon composite with a press-fit steel back. It’s slight thicker than the steel model because the steel case back connects to an inner case of steel that sits within the carbon composite outer case. The composite used for the case has a marbled finish that is typical of the material. Made up of white, grey, and black, the case is match...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Sep 5, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport

After having expanded the line-up of its bestselling, vintage-inspired Carrera “Glassbox”, TAG Heuer now turns to something modern, the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport. Though it shares the Carrera moniker and TH20 movement, the new Extreme Sport chronograph is nothing like is retro counterpart. Available in titanium or 18k rose gold, the Carrera Extreme Sport is a big, bold chronograph with a skeletonised dial and integrated rubber strap. And at the top of the new collection is the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, which is the most modern take on TAG Heuer’s affordable double complication of chronograph plus flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer’s offerings are now mostly either vintage-inspired and hyper-modern. The Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport definitely falls into the latter category. The open-worked dial is surprisingly intricate, with the X-shaped latticework finished with a combination of colour-treated frosted recesses and straight graining. With a skeletonised dial and chunky case, the Chronograph Extreme Sport feels similar to other watches in this segment, though the case is distinctive as the Carrera design. For anyone who feels TAG Heuer’s vintage-inspired watches are too traditional, this has the same in-house movement but presented in contemporary package. Like most watches of this style, the Chronograph Extreme Sport has an integrated rubber strap for a seamless clean profile, but never really fits as well as a convent...

Grand Seiko Marks 20 Years of Spring Drive 9R SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Marks 20 Years Sep 5, 2024

Grand Seiko Marks 20 Years of Spring Drive 9R

Grand Seiko’s debuted its first-ever Spring Drive movement in 2004 with the cal. 9R65. Now the brand is marking 20 years of the 9R Spring Drive movement family with the Elegance Collection SBGY035 and SBGA499, both sporting striking red dials inspired by the sunlit autumn scenery around Mount Hotaka. Part of the Thin Dress Series, the SBGY035 is flat and elegant, with a domed, textured dial. On the other hand, SBGA499 employs the classic Grand Seiko case and bracelet, matched with a sunburst-brushed dial in red that has the signature Spring Drive power reserve indicator at eight o’clock. The SBGA499 Initial thoughts I am a Grand Seiko fanboy. The brand offers a strong value proposition across its catalogue. Furthermore, Spring Drive is synonymous with Grand Seiko. The hybrid approach of Spring Drive means it boasts quartz-level accuracy despite being having an entirely mechanical mainspring and gear train. The new pair are perfect representations of Grand Seiko’s approach to horology, both good and bad. The two watches are striking, especially since red isn’t a colour often employed by Grand Seiko. The SBGY035 in particular stands out since the textured red dial is uncommon for Grand Seiko and dress watches in general. The SBGY035 That said, Grand Seiko’s limited editions feel too frequent, especially since many are only colour variations of each other. This is a regular criticism of Grand Seiko, but it hasn’t dampened sales of such limited editions, which pro...

First Look – The Unique Jungle-Inspired Corum Golden Bridge Serpent Monochrome
Corum Golden Bridge Serpent Based Sep 1, 2024

First Look – The Unique Jungle-Inspired Corum Golden Bridge Serpent

Based on the principle of celebrating the aesthetic value of a mechanical movement, Corum’s iconic Golden Bridge collection finds its origin in a mechanical watch created and patented by Vincent Calabrese in 1977. Corum quickly acquired the patent and collaborated with Vincent Calabrese to put the watch into production. At the height of the quartz […]