Hodinkee
Gift Guide: A Toast To The Intoxicating Selections Of The Author And Watch Enthusiast Gary Shteyngart
Gary's controversial and not-so-controversial gift picks for the holiday season.
2,301 articles · 141 videos found · page 71 of 82
French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.
43 mm × 14.6 mm, lug 22 mm, Cal. 3235
40 mm × 15.0 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3135
40 mm × 15.0 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 1575
Hodinkee
Gary's controversial and not-so-controversial gift picks for the holiday season.
Time+Tide
While Vacheron Constantin’s contribution to the watch world has mostly been focused on the Overseas and the newly re-introduced 222, the Geneva-based maker has quietly refreshed a highly complicated model. First released in platinum in 2016, and then pink gold a year later, it’s been five years since we saw the last update to the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a salmon-dialled beauty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
IWC has a suite of instantly recognisable models synonymous with the brand, namely the Pilot’s Watches and of course, the Portugieser. But one collection does get as much recognition as its peers, despite being almost 40 years old. Named after the famous seaside city in Italy, the Portofino was introduced in 1984 (though the inaugural model didn’t yet have the Portofino name at the time) as an oversized pocket watch-style wristwatch, something of a clarion call to persist with mechanical watchmaking after the Quartz Crisis. Now the brand has revived one of the classics from the line with the Portofino Perpetual Calendar. At 40 mm in diameter, it’s the most compact of IWC’s perpetual calendars and is equipped with an in-house movement from the 82000 family. Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar is a sought-after complication for its utility but also its aesthetics, especially when it includes a moon phase, which adds a touch of romanticism to the design. IWC’s latest take on the complication is straightforward, practical, and priced reasonably enough. In fact, it’s essentially a visually-simplified version of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42, which uses the same movement but inside a larger case. While not revolutionary in technical terms, the Portofino Perpetual Calendar is a solid performer with a concise design. It retains all the features that made the 1990s original appealing but adds a few contemporary touches in both design and the in-house base m...
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: Recently the Kurono Chronograph 1 Mk.2 went up for sale, and has since sold out. More seasoned watch enthusiasts are likely familiar with the cult-followed micro-independent brand, but, for those new to to the space, some of you may have been wondering what all the hoopla on social media was all about. So, we refer you to Zach’s first story on … ContinuedThe post Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When it comes to dive watches, to say there is a lot of competition is a huge understatement. With over a century of watchmaking experience, Titoni has put forward their latest entries into this heavily contested field with the Seascoper 300 and 600. The watches hone in on a definitive look that can be adapted … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Titoni Seascoper range delivers classic dive watches with a clean-cut, modern look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Presented to the world leaders who were recently in Phnom Penh for the ASEAN Summit, the ASEAN Lotus Tourbillon was created by the Prince Horology Vocational Training Center, the impressively-equipped watchmaking school set up by local conglomerate Prince Holding Group. (I visited the school in 2020 just before it opened its doors – see our report here.) Produced in an initial run of 25 pieces for the summit, it contains a hand-wind movement that is as notable for both its hand finishing and the one-minute tourbillon regulator. Cambodian prime minister Hun Sen was personally involved in the design of the watch – he received the very first example – and posted photos of the watch on his Facebook page a few days before the summit with the comment “Khmer can do it”. Initial thoughts Having been aware of the project and its ambitions since I visited the school two years ago, I was expecting much of the Lotus Tourbillon and I wasn’t disappointed. The quality of the execution is immediately apparent in the hand finishing of the components, particularly for the key components of the tourbillon, namely the cage and bridge. Equally impressive is the fact that it was developed and completed in under two years. Admittedly, the Lotus Tourbillon is plain in terms of the dial and case aesthetics, but the mechanical excellence is obvious. Importantly, the movement is likely to make it into a series of watches that will be sold publicly to raise funds for watchmaking school,...
SJX Watches
A much-anticipated series of auctions just concluded in Geneva, the first sale season to take place after financial markets started to crack in mid 2022. All the major auction houses – Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s – staged sales in the Swiss city, and almost everyone who was anyone turned up (or took part by phone or online). The season’s top performer by the numbers was Christie’s, which sold CHF55.5 million of watches, fees included, largely thanks to the collection of former Ferrari Formula 1 chief Jean Todt. It displaced the traditional number one, Phillips, which sold CHF45.0 million. The Phillips auction at La Reserve. Image – Phillips A few takeaways are immediately apparent in the results. One was widely expected: “hype” watches have come off their highs, often by a third or more. Including obvious candidates like sports watches, namely the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Overseas, but also brands that enjoyed massive run-ups in value during the pandemic like F.P. Journe. Values are still up from the pre-pandemic lows, but if prices overcorrected on the way up, then it is likely they will do so on the way down. Sotheby’s, for instance, had several dozen examples of various Nautilus and Royal Oak models in its sale, mostly with estimates close to peak values from late 2021. As a result, a third of the watches went unsold. The dip in values was also evident with F.P. Journe, certainly not a “hype” brand but one that enjoy a stellar run during ...
Hodinkee
We can safely say the holiday party season is nigh, do you have the perfect watch?
Quill & Pad
CB thought it was a great idea to add a legendary platinum bracelet to his A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen. At first it looked like it would be easy, but then there were a few unforeseen "issues." GaryG tells the up-and-down story of one man's search (and willingness to fight) for his dream grail.
Quill & Pad
On activation, the water starts to ripple as if touched by the wind on the Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine aux Oiseaux. The birds engage in an intricate mating ritual so real that it feels as if each bird has a character of its own. The dragonfly zips across the water as the waterlily opens to reveal an inner life set with precious stones. And that's not all!
Deployant
In this week's article, we focus on modestly priced watches - more specifically, timepieces with a price point at the sub-S$2,000 range.
Time+Tide
It’s always a safe assumption that watches from Vacheron Constantin are going to be exquisite in all aspects, yet still nothing prepares us for those occasions when they release something infinitely special. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton gets every possible element right despite being quite a complicated package, and seeing it as … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The fall auction season is almost upon us with the first instalment happening in Geneva before Hong Kong at the end of the month. All the auctioneers have varied, interesting catalogues, including the watch collection of former Ferrari manager Jean Todt that’s being sold at Christie’s. Phillips, on the other hand, is doing without the celebrity element at The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI, but has put together a catalogue that offers a diverse selection of watches with both establishment and independent brands well represented. The reverse of the Daniels Spring Case Amongst the highlights from mainstream marques are two vintage Patek Philippe watches with black dials: a third-series ref. 2499 with a fresh (and recent) dial and a ref. 2551 with diamond indices. And the independents line-up includes a recent Dufour Simplicity (the first post-“200” example to be sold publicly) and of course several watches from F.P. Journe. But the biggest lot in terms of value for the independents is the George Daniels “Spring Case” wristwatch, which we already covered in-depth back in 2018. The auction takes place over the weekend of November 5 (for lots 1-114) and November 6 (lots 115-232). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available online. Lot 20 – Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series with black dial An interesting and appealing watch in itself, this 2499 also poses an interesting questions in terms of originality and period correctness. This is a third-se...
WatchAdvice
Pros: Bold rugged designContrasting golden bronze case with the deep blue dial and bezelNumerous strap options as standard to interchange the look Cons: The Nato strap makes it wear higher on the wrist, as not as flush as we would likeIt’s a larger watch so not for the faint of wrist Date wheel in white, not blue to blend in with the dial Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Rado is one of those brands that does fly a little under the radar, in this writer’s opinion. They have always had good watches, and when it comes to different design materials, like ceramic, they’re up there with the best. I bought my wife a white Rado True Thinline in full ceramic about ten years ago, and it still looks as new as the day I bought it. She loves it and wears it all the time, and is quartz and keeps perfect time (until the battery goes dead, that is!) Which makes me think, why then do guys not think about Rado as they do other mainstream Swiss brands? Maybe it’s because they don’t put giant amounts into marketing with celebrities. Or maybe we’re all too caught up on the hype watches to look elsewhere? In any case, I’ve had the good fortune to try on a few Captain Cook variants this year, and I think Rado is a winner with this model line. A Watch Line Named After An Adventurer For those that don’t know, the Captain Cook line goes back to 1962 and was aimed at doctors, engineers, athletes, deep sea di...
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin releases a new Overseas Chronograph in 5N pink gold version with the collection's iconic blue-lacquered dial.
Quill & Pad
Elizabeth took a look back at the meaning of time in the early seasons of 'The Walking Dead,' where the show's creators appear to take time and timepieces seriously. And don't worry, there are no spoilers and no zombies, just a lot of fun.
Time+Tide
With spooky season upon us, it’s time to sort out your superhero costume. Every hero (or villain) needs a selection of primo gadgets to accessorise their super-suit, and if you happen to be a playboy billionaire with a secret double life, a luxury watch is a must-have. While the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black … ContinuedThe post Kapow! 5 high-end watches from the Batman universe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“I’m going to the archives”. If a movie about the current state of the watch industry were to be released, that would be the main character’s catchphrase. In this last decade, we’ve seen multiple brands go to the creations of their past in search of inspiration for their present. And with such rich histories, who … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Bulova Parking Meter delivers that wheel good factor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The 2022 Formula 1 season is back after the summer break, and we here at Time + Tide couldn’t be more stoked. This is a season fraught with intrigue, from McLaren cutting loose favourite Aussie son Daniel Ricciardo, to his replacement, young gun and fellow countryman Oscar Piastri sliding into Ricciardo’s seat for his inaugural … ContinuedThe post Winning Formula: 5 of the coolest vintage watches in Formula 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
See that Apple Watch fastened to your wrist? Well, it may well be a masterful piece of technology that tracks your steps, buzzes you notifications and locates that missing iPhone you drunkenly left in that bar. But according to Dr Lotti Tajouri, Associate Professor of Genomics and Molecular Biology at Bond University on the Gold … ContinuedThe post Study: Your smartwatch is “more dirty than a toilet seat“ and covered in dangerous germs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
The Tambour is Louis Vuitton’s most well-known watch design. The fashion mega-brand has been slowly but surely establishing itself as a top-tier watchmaker since establishing Le Fabrique Du Temps, their dedicated watch manufacture, in 2014. Since then, several of Louis Vuitton’s watches have earned the Geneva Seal, a rarified standard of Swiss watchmaking reserved for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For those who buy watches to wear in different situations, what context best suits the Olto-8 Infinity II? It could be in the seat of a race car, or even on the wrist of Tony Stark. Truthfully, the Olto-8 Infinity II wants to be worn anywhere, bringing it’s own high-octane energy into the dullest of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Olto-8 Infinity II is a high-octane extravaganza of a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
It's up for grabs at Phillips this November. Here's what you need to know about this highly significant George Daniels timekeeper.
Quill & Pad
Patrick Mouratoglou morphed from a frustrated player in his teens into today’s perennial supercoach; he is able to deal with the highly complicated psyche and game of an elite competitor just the way a horologist is qualified to finetune a supercomplication. And he is a Zenith ambassador. Learn all about him here thanks to tennis and timepiece writer Miguel Seabra!
Teddy Baldassarre
The Rolex Explorer is in many ways the quintessential dressy tool watch from Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual collection - less flashy than the GMT-Master, less bulky than the Submariner, while still rooted, like those two models, in a history of adventure and discovery. While it has changed very little since the 1950s, today’s Rolex Explorer is the culmination of many decades of aesthetic and technical evolution, guided by a watchmaker for whom the subtlest details make all the difference in the world to its avid legions of fans. Underpinning the Explorer: Oyster Case and Perpetual Caliber The Rolex Explorer, like all Oyster Perpetual timepieces in Rolex’s Professional collection, is an expression of two technical milestones that Rolex and its visionary founder Hans Wisdorf contributed to watchmaking history. The first is the so-called Oyster case, developed in 1926, which revolutionized the construction of watch cases with its dustproof, waterproof, hermetically sealed structure, secured by a threaded caseback and a crown that screwed tightly into the case. In 1931, Rolex made history again with the creation of its first “Perpetual” movement (below), whose self-winding mechanism was driven by an oscillating rotor. The marriage of these two inventions gave rise to the “Oyster Perpetual” line of timepieces that remain at the heart of Rolex’s collection today, beginning with the Datejust in 1945 and coming to full fruition with the tool-oriented, yet still luxuri...
Time+Tide
Welcome to Cheap Thrills, where we highlight offbeat watches that are pure fun, at prices that won’t sear a hole in your wallet. Today, we’re taking a look at the unique, artsy offerings from Mr. Jones Watches. When you first see one of the quirky timepieces from London’s Mr. Jones Watches, you may be thinking, … ContinuedThe post CHEAP THRILLS: Mr. Jones Watches will brighten your day every time you look at your wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With record-breaking temperatures searing Europe this summer, it’s safe to say the beaches are an incredibly popular destination right now. To celebrate the launch of pop-up boutiques in three of Europe’s most beautiful coastal areas, Hublot have released a limited-edition watch for each branch. We’ve seen Hublot produce summer-loving watches before, but these new models … ContinuedThe post Ibiza! Capri! St Tropez! The Hublot Loves Summer Collection captures the feel-good holiday spirit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
This weekend we're talking Zaratsu polishing, textured dial work, and what's still one of the best value props in all of luxury watchmaking.
Time+Tide
With the advent of Kickstarter it seems that anyone can start a watch brand these days, but there will always be a certain level of cachet required to be truly respected as a Swiss luxury brand, no matter the price point. So, with over 100 years of honest family-owned operation and consistent high-end products, why … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Titoni Seascoper 600 is a dive watch from a brand you should know more about appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
And Prince William wears his mainstay – the Omega "Bond" Seamaster – to the Men's Final.
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