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Fratello
I sat on a stool in a Brooklyn dive bar on a rainy Wednesday evening, sipping a Negroni. Two of my friends were with me as we just had dinner a few hours earlier in a nearby restaurant. We were chatting, enjoying our drinks, and eagerly waiting for someone (who shall remain nameless) to pull […] Visit Hands-On With The Tuul Filthy 13 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
With a Singer Paul Newman-inspired dial and chunky 1970s flavour, the new Nivada Grenchen Chronsport is a reissue of a never-issued watch.The post The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport turns a prototype into a production must-have appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A review of the Seiko SSK025 GMT. A Seiko 5 that blends GMT functionality with stealthy looks and affordability. Check out photos & pricing.
Fratello
When I feel my appetite for retro filling up, something catches my eye in a typical fashion. A good dégradé dial does that to me, and green is supposedly the color of 2024, right? Combining this with a busier-than-usual Super Compressor-style dial sounds like too much, but the Beaufort Seatrekker might prove me wrong. I’ll […] Visit Hands-On With The Beaufort Seatrekker - A Big-Hearted Dual-Crown Diver From New Zealand to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Let’s take just a minute with the Modul, Paulin’s bold and colorful time-only watch. The Modul is a collection of 35mm, modular constructed tonneau-shaped watches. The cases are rated to 50 meters of water resistance and use a boxed Hesalite crystal, giving them a vintage charm. Let’s take just a minute with the Modul, Paulin’s bold and colorful time-only watch. The Modul is a collection of 35mm, modular constructed tonneau-shaped watches. The cases are rated to 50 meters of water resistance and use a boxed Hesalite crystal, giving them a vintage charm. The post Just A Minute With The Paulin Modul appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward has just released the latest in their popular retro-dive line-up, the C65 Super Compressor Elite. With technical upgrades and a new color palette, it’s one of the most exciting new additions for the UK-based watchmaker this year. In terms of design, the C65 Super Compressor Elite has knocked it out of the park. There’s a playful use of color here, mixing a vibrant color palette that somehow doesn’t tip into garish territory. The main palette is orange and blue, complementing the stainless steel case. Most notable on the dial are the orange and light blue bands which contrast against the darker blue dial base. These bands aren’t just a stylistic choice, of course, but a functional throwback to previous dive watches. While dive computers are now common for dive safety, the compression dive timer scales outlined in blue and orange were once used to avoid decompression sickness. Divers would find their dive depth (marked at 12 o’clock on the Super Compressor Elite) and follow the scale clockwise. This showed the maximum time they could stay underwater without needing decompression. If they exceeded this time, the scale showed how long they needed to decompress before resurfacing. This is just one of the features which show that this reference is as much a stylish watch as it is a performance watch. Like the original from 2020, the C65 Super Compressor Elite features a true super compressor case mechanism that increases water resistance as you desce...
Monochrome
A masterpiece of ingenuity and complexity, the GNS1 dazzled the watchmaking scene with its incredible free-moving train travelling around the two central counters on the dial like a mechanical caterpillar. Marking the indie brand’s debut in 2019, the GNS1 was ten years in the making and protected by two patents. Earlier this year, Genus introduced […]
SJX Watches
Having just launched the Sunlit Ivory edition for its Singapore retailer, Parmigiani now unveils the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm for ladies. Though it retains the same dimensions and details, including the hand-guilloché dial, the new Tonda PF is available with a variety of diamond settings. Three versions are being launched, including a top-of-the-line model with lines of diamonds along the entire circumference of the watch and bracelet. The entry-level model, on the other hand, is two-tone rose gold and steel with diamond indices. The two-tone Tonda PF Automatic 36mm on the wrist Initial thoughts Although the Tonda PF 36 mm is one of many integrated-bracelet sports watch, it has a bit more of dress watch element to its design, especially in this 36 mm size. It’s more compact without sacrificing the sporty aspect of the model, making it quite versatile – the fact that it’s a convincing ladies’ sports watch in this new livery confirms that. Priced from CHF31,900 to CHF78,900 depending on the version, the new Tonda PF 36 mm is similarly to the competition. With integrated-bracelet sports watches being premium priced in general – reflecting an earlier fad – Tonda PF is a value proposition compared to alternatives when considering fit, finish, and materials. That said, I wish it was priced more competitively considering that Parmigiani is a newish brand without a historical lineage of sports watches that the “Holy Trinity” brands possess. A familiar design The t...
Worn & Wound
We love quartz watches at Worn & Wound. For many of us, they were the first watches we ever wore, and represent a foundation of enthusiasm that has stretched on for years. There are many, many facets to quartz, and if you think of quartz watches simply as “affordable” alternatives to mechanical, you’re missing out on a lot of history, unique design, and special movements that simply aren’t possible with a mechanical caliber. One of my favorite little quartz rabbit holes is the output of traditional, high-end Swiss brands during the earliest days of the technology, leading up into the period often referred to as the “quartz crisis.” It’s fascinating to look back and see how these brands handled such a major shock to a centuries old industry, and the quartz watches produced by the most storied Swiss brands during this period are almost always significant, carrying with them design attributes that effectively distinguish them from traditional mechanical watches. The Girard-Perregaux Casquette is one of my favorite examples of a storied Swiss brand experimenting with quartz at the very beginning. The Casquette first appeared in 1976 and was brought back as the Casquete 2.0 in 2022 in a limited edition that quickly sold out to some degree of fanfare and acclaim. The watch has what is now frequently referred to as a “driver’s style” orientation, with an LED display that displays the time digitally when viewed from the side. In the mid-1970s, this certainly ...
Monochrome
Evolution, not revolution. It’s a well-known strategy that has been applied by so many brands, and not just in the watch industry. The idea of gradually updating/upgrading your most emblematic product without drastically changing it is at the heart of the success of icons such as the Porsche 911, the iPhone, the Nike Air Max […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Christopher Ward has long been known for bridging the gap between high-end watches and accessibility. Their latest release, the C65 Super Compressor Elite, is a masterclass in this philosophy. A tribute to vintage dive watches, it blends cutting-edge technology with a nostalgic design that harkens back to the golden era of underwater exploration. Let’s dive into the details.
Monochrome
Let’s go straight to the point. Bremont, one of the foremost British watch brands, is changing. The founding brothers, Nick and Giles English, are no longer the faces of the company, which has had a new CEO for about a year now: Davide Cerrato. As expected, his arrival has meant a new strategy, starting with […]
SJX Watches
A new livery for one of Zenith’s most popular models, the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic shares the styling of its siblings like the Defy Skyline 36 mm but with a few notable tweaks including a white ceramic case and blue-treated skeletonised movement. And though it appears to be a simple time-only watch, the Defy Skyline features a discreet complication in the form of a “lightning” small seconds hand that completes one rotation every ten seconds. Initial thoughts Zenith has recently been playing it safe with new launches by building on current bestsellers, like the Defy Skyline. The new skeleton in white ceramic is a good looking watch, and an excellent execution of one of Zenith’s modern-day classics. The combination is also novel. Although each key element of the watch is common in itself – a skeleton movement plus the white ceramic case and bracelet – they are relatively uncommon together. The Defy Skyline Skeleton on the wrist However, the Defy Skyline arguably tries too hard to capitalise on the recent (and waning) popularity of integrated-bracelet sports watches. It is not difficult to see a resemblance to the Royal Oak, in particular the one-off Royal Oak made for Only Watch 2023, making it a bit cliché. Priced at US$17,500, the Defy Skyline Skeleton in white ceramic is a decent value proposition compared to similar watches, most of which are from pricier brands like Hublot or Audemars Piguet. Besides the ceramic case and bracelet, it stands out ...
Quill & Pad
Quentin R. Bufogle has always been a Swiss watch snob. He knows Grand Seiko turns out some truly excellent timepieces. But for all of impeccable engineering, and craftsmanship, for this watch enthusiast, the brand has always lacked something in spirit. Until he discovered the Kumakawa Worldtimer GMT Limited Edition.
Fratello
Hello, and welcome to a sunny and warm episode of Fratello Talks! This week, Nacho, Lex, and Daan discuss summer watches. More specifically, they look at the ways they go about picking their ideal watch for the season. Is there such a thing as a perfect summer watch? If there is, you can follow Daan’s […] Visit Fratello Talks: Finding The Perfect Summer Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
This spring, Montblanc introduced the latest addition to the Unveiled Minerva series, the Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph. Like the 2022-2023 releases, the Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronographs, it showcases the beautiful mechanics of the underlying movement in an exciting and visually captivating way. The new Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph continues the inverted calibre concept with […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Many watch companies have a history of supplying timepieces for military units around the world, from Blancpain and Tudor’s dive watches for the French Navy to Hamilton’s field watches for World War II troops to IWC’s pilot watches for German and later British air forces. However, only one watch company has been an official supplier to the U.S. armed forces throughout nearly its entire existence, and it’s a company that many watch enthusiasts might be hearing about for the very first time: Marathon Watch Company. Read on for more background and a comprehensive rundown of the brand's collection. The Marathon Watch Company, one of the very few family-owned watch brands in existence and one of the even fewer based in Canada, traces its lineage all the way back to 1904. Its predecessor, the Weinstrum Watch Company, was founded by the Wein family, Russian immigrants who originally settled in New York City. (Another branch of the family changed their last name to “Wenger” and founded another Canadian watch business under that name, though it’s not to be confused with the better known Wenger company in Switzerland, today part of Victorinox.) In 1939, family scion Morris Wein carried on the family trade with the founding of Marathon, basing it not in New York but in Montreal, Canada, where the family had moved during the 1920s - not exactly a hotbed of watchmaking even at the time, but an ideal home base for the mission that the company began in 1941: supplying dep...
Monochrome
Founded in 1934, Airain was one of the original suppliers of the iconic Type 20 chronograph issued to French military pilots in the 1950s and 60s. The brand was dormant until its resurrection in 2020 by Dutch entrepreneur Tom van Wijlick, who also spearheaded the 2014 relaunch of Lebois & Co, which brought back the […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A quick look at the new Monta Noble Voyager - Monta's latest travel-inspired iteration of their popular Noble series. Check out photos, specs, and pricing.
Worn & Wound
Oris has unveiled their latest release in their ongoing “Change for the Better” campaign, a limited edition Aquis with a unique gradient dial. The Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition IV continues a tradition of partnership with the Reef Restoration Foundation, an Australian non-profit whose mission is to protect and restore the Great Barrier Reef. Watches in this series frequently feature evocative, nature inspired dial designs, and the Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition IV is no exception. It also marks the first of these watches to be built on the new Aquis platform that was unveiled at Watches & Wonders earlier this year. The most prominent design detail here is certainly the dial, rendered in a gradient blue that is meant to mimic the turquoise and blue water of the Great Barrier Reef as seen from the air. The gradient effect also captures the natural refraction of the sun’s rays through water, as you’d see if you were diving. This phenomenon is unique in nature and something that only a handful of divers get to see at depth. Oris points out that the vertical gradient seen in this dial design is rare for the brand, as typically their gradient dials emanate from the center. But the verticality here reinforces the idea of a diver descending, and fits the watch thematically. Regular readers will remember that when Oris introduced a revamped Aquis earlier this year, they did so in a multitude of sizes and configurations. This particular limited edition is built ...
From hand-milling plates to carefully bluing screws, the team at Bruno Söhnle Glashütte S/A takes the standard and seal of ‘Made in Glashütte’ very personally. Since 2000, the brand has become the most accessible entry point for watch enthusiasts to step into the world of traditional Glashütte watchmaking. For the uninitiated, the town of Glashütte in Saxony, Germany has been the undisputed heart of prestigious German watchmaking for almost two centuries. With a 60+ year family legacy intertwined with the history of this town, the basic idea behind the Bruno Söhnle brand is to manufacture watches that live up to the all-important ‘Made in Glashütte’ concept and title-but in a way that also makes them affordable for everyone. ‘Made in Glashütte’ can best be compared to champagne. Like champagne, it has regulations that it can only be produced in a specific region. We have the same thing here in Glashütte. We had the unique opportunity of going behind-the-scenes at the manufacture in Glashütte, with the Bruno Söhnle team, to see exactly what it takes to be ‘Made in Glashütte.’ Join us as we interview the brand’s leadership, spend time with their watchmakers, and learn about the standards that define Glashütte-based quality across automatic, hand-wound, and even quartz movements. In fact, Bruno Söhnle Glashütte S/A is the only watch brand around to create quartz movements bearing the ‘Made in Glashütte’ moniker. In this exclusive be...
Monochrome
Dual regulators were invented by horology’s illustrious grandfathers to improve accuracy and stability. Names like Huygens, who introduced the concept of resonance inside his movements, and others like Breguet, Berthoud and Janvier are all associated with this alignment of double regulators. Coveted by collectors, this rara avis is not extinct and reinterpreted by contemporary wizards […]
SJX Watches
Now a legend in his own time, François-Paul Journe is an independent watchmaker who has created some of the most complicated and most ingenious timepieces in contemporary watchmaking. But having quietly previewed it last year, Mr Journe finally launched a watch that is, on its face, surprising for his brand: the Élégante Gino’s Dream. Many brands have “rainbow” watches in their catalogues, but as is always the case with Mr Journe, his “rainbow” creation is done his own inimitable way. Based on his inventive quartz watch, the Élégante Gino’s Dream is set with synthetic gemstones of glass-ceramic composite. The colours and model name are a tribute to the late Gino Cukrowicz (1959-2021), one of Mr Journe’s best friends and a longtime business partner. Initial thoughts With the popularity – and value – of “rainbow” watches, it seems like every watch brand has one in its line-up, from the Patek Philippe Aquanaut minute repeater in rainbow stones from end to end to Tudor’s special edition for the VCARB Formula 1 team. So an F.P. Journe in those colours isn’t surprising, yet the Élégante “Gino’s Dream” is unexpected. As with much he has done, Mr Journe didn’t do a “rainbow” like anyone else. Instead of an exceptionally expensive gem-set watch – a favoured approach as a sure way to increase revenue without boosting production – he created something entry-level, more or less. And the watch has a deeply personal aspect to it – Gino...
SJX Watches
Following last year’s SBGA481, Grand Seiko continues to expand the Sport Collection “Tokyo Lion” series inspired by the big cat in the Grand Seiko emblem. Like its predecessor, the Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” sports a stylised, angular titanium case inspired by a lion’s paw and a textured dial modelled on a mane, now joined by a red GMT hand. Initial thoughts The “Tokyo Lion” is one of the most distinctive case designs in Grand Seiko’s large catalogue, and also the flagship given its complex finishing (and accompanying price). While most Grand Seiko watches opt for patterned dials and conservative, even bland, case styles, the “Tokyo Lion” makes a statement with its is generous dimensions and angular styling. The design is also particularly suited to Grand Seiko’s signature flat-polishing technique. With their wide, flat surfaces, the claw-inspired lugs are an excellent medium to showcase zaratsu polishing. It is, however, a large case at almost 45 mm wide and 15 mm high, so it’s catered to someone seeking a bold sports watch, and not an old-school Grand Seiko dress watch. The texture of the dial is striking, even though Grand Seiko has no shortage of dial patterns in its offerings. The dial artfully mimics a lion’s mane, giving it more visual depth than the typical Grand Seiko dial. Though few, the red accents on the dial add just enough colour and complement the ivory dial well. The dial might have been slightly dull without th...
Quill & Pad
GaryG provides us with a look at why he bought the A. Lange & Söhne Double Split even though he already owned the brand’s Datograph. The Double Split is the world’s only double rattrapante capable of both split-second and split-minute interval timing, which may shed some light.
Worn & Wound
Mt. Everest has long held a grip on our cultural consciousness – and for good reason. Not only is it Earth’s highest mountain, but it takes an almost superhuman amount of determination and grit to scale it. Then, of course, there is the rich history of the Himalayas, making for an even more fascinating landscape – geographically and culturally – for our imaginations to explore. With all of this in mind, it seems that NORQAIN’s latest in their Neverest collection shows appreciation to the history, mystique, and people of the region through their Glacier Black and Ice Blue references. The 41mm DLC coated Neverest GMT Glacier Black features a black glacier dial inspired by the crevasses on Mt. Everest, with a second time zone and a 24-hour indication on a black and white ring surrounding the dial. The DLC black coating brings the overall appearance of the watch together, while the red-gold plated indices and hands add some contrast. The 40mm Neverest Glacier Ice Blue boasts an ice blue glacier dial with cracks that mimic the crevasses on Mt. Everest. The dial features diamond-cut, faceted blue indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova and blue diamond-cut faceted hour and minute hands. The steel case is paired with a blue ceramic bezel and is water-resistant up to 200 meters, ensuring reliability under even the most extreme conditions. Both watches are powered by a NORQAIN Manufacture Caliber by Kenissi. The Glacier Black model runs on Caliber NN20/2, which offers a ...
Teddy Baldassarre
In 2022, Longines marked 190 years in operation, which means that the Swiss watchmaker’s bicentennial year is just around the corner. In nearly two centuries of continuous operation, Longines has not only been a reliable producer of watches in all kinds of styles for both men and ladies; it has also been responsible for more watchmaking milestones than you probably know. Here we take a look at the remarkable history of Longines watches. Foundations (1832-1908) Longines was founded in 1832, originally as Raiguel Jeune et Cie., in the Swiss Jura town of Saint-Imier by Auguste Agassiz and two partners. Agassiz (above, left) became the sole proprietor in 1846 after both partners, attorneys by trade, retired from the watch business, and shortly thereafter, he brought his nephew, an enterprising economist named Ernest Françillon (above, right), into the company. It was Françillon, in 1867, who moved all of the firm’s various watchmaking disciplines - which were scattered throughout dozens of independent workshops called établisseurs - under one roof, to a factory that was situated in a scenic area called “Les Longines” or “The Long Meadows,” thus giving the company its now-familiar name. In 1889, Francillon registered the famous Longines logo with a winged hourglass - today the world’s oldest unchanged, active logo according to the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). Among Longines’ many milestones under Françillon’s management were the c...
Monochrome
Following a complete and welcomed overhaul of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Automatic collection in 2021, last month the brand introduced its latest updated models in the series, with five new Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and three Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT versions, with captivating new dials, slightly reduced case sizes, and powered by the […]
Worn & Wound
Between the UEFA Euro 2024 championships to the French Open to the upcoming Olympics in Paris, this is really a Summer for sports fans. And one of the world’s most famous races – The Tour de France – is sure to capture the attention of cycling fans throughout the month of July. Le Tour isn’t just a sports event, it puts each rider’s grit, determination, and stamina on the world’s stage. And, in doing so, has captured the attention of cycling fans for over 120 years. Because of this, Swedish brand Bravur has created their latest watch, the La Grande Boucle IV, as an homage to the event, and is the latest entry in an ongoing series of cycling inspired watches from the brand. Taking elements of the Tour’s design language and making it decidedly their own, this watch captures the essence of the 23-day long event while still being decidedly Bravur in style. The watch is a comfortable 38.2mm that has been designed with cyclists in mind. Each of the three sub-dials are built for the individual needs of cyclists, including a 15-minute counter for tracking intervals, a 12-hour counter for longer rides, and a seconds hand sub-dial. The watch runs on an SW511b automatic movement from Sellita with a 62-hour power reserve. While functionality is, of course, imperative with any watch, what is especially eye-catching for this reference is its use of classic Tour coloring. The frosted silver-white dial has a subtle polka-dot pattern that’s inspired by the King of the Mount...
Fratello
In the 1980s, IWC introduced a series of highly specialized dive watches for the Kampfschwimmer, an elite German military dive unit. Made in conjunction with Porsche Design, these titanium watches had IWC technology and ingenuity behind them. As military-issued versions of the IWC Ocean 2000, they are now referred to as the “Ocean Bund” among […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Serving In The Kampfschwimmer With An Issued IWC to read the full article.
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