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Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida Time+Tide
Grand Seiko design Apr 7, 2023

Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida

Grand Seiko has attracted a wide base of watch enthusiasts to their products. Previously an underdog trying to break through in regions outside of Japan, there has to be some special quality to the DNA of their watches to garner attention away from usual suspects like Rolex and Omega. Irrefutably the special ingredient in the … ContinuedThe post Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound
Bulova Apr 6, 2023

The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons

When iconic American watchmaking brands are brought up, it’s impossible not to mention Bulova. Born out of the mind of Joseph Bulova in 1875, the brand has been making quality timepieces for nearly one and a half centuries, with the brand’s 150th anniversary coming up soon. When a brand gets their start so early in the grand scheme of American history, you can trace the watches back to specific periods of innovation and design language. Today, we’re exploring the breadth of Bulova by highlighting some of their most iconic models that are still made today. Whether you want to learn about WWII watches from the 1940s, space-worn watches of the 1960s, brightly-colored dive watches of the 1970s, or technology from the dawn of quartz watches, Bulova has something to pique your interest. Let’s take a closer look at some modern interpretations of some of Bulova’s most recognizable timepieces. The post The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Rolex Explorer Welcomes New 40mm Case Worn & Wound
Rolex Explorer Welcomes New 40mm Apr 6, 2023

The Rolex Explorer Welcomes New 40mm Case

Just a few short years ago, Rolex surprised all of us by returning the Explorer to its 36mm roots, after a relatively short stint at 39mm. I discuss that move and the watch itself at length in this review of the ever charming 124270. While many lamented the change, there is certainly no shortage of larger sport watches across the Rolex catalog to choose from. This year, Rolex again returns to the Explorer, adding an entirely new size option to live alongside the 36mm case, offering something for everyone with a new Explorer 40 reference 224270. They’ve managed to fix some of the odd proportion issues that plagued the old 39mm 214270 in the process.  The new Rolex Explorer 40 at left, existing 36 at right. The Explorer 40 was was one of many new releases from Rolex this year, and largely fell into quiet territory alongside blockbusters like a new Daytona, a titanium Yacht-Master, an entirely new formal range called Perpetual 1908, and a pair of unusually colorful watches in the OP and Day-Date range. But, for fans of the Explorer missing a larger option, this was a momentous release worth celebrating. This simple, perhaps iconic even, Rolex dial is now more accessible to more wrists than ever, and more options are always a good thing in my book. The Explorer 40 is exactly what it sounds like, a slightly scaled up Explorer with the same dial and case design as the 36. Most importantly, the scale and proportions of the 3, 6, and 9 Arabic numerals, as well as the block hour...

A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic Worn & Wound
Luminox Apr 6, 2023

A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic

When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...

The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) Showcases Watchmaking’s Past & Future Revolution
Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Apr 6, 2023

The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) Showcases Watchmaking’s Past & Future

Wei and Jeremiah take a closer look at Revolution’s latest collaboration with Frederique Constant, a brand whose mission is to bring luxury to a wider audience. In 2021, Frederique Constant introduced the Slimline Monolithic, a watch that replaced all 26 components of the oscillator and escapement, instead employing a single silicon disc as the regulating […]

Your votes are in for the new YG Rolex GMT Master II nickname – here are your answers Time+Tide
Rolex GMT Master II nickname Apr 6, 2023

Your votes are in for the new YG Rolex GMT Master II nickname – here are your answers

Watches often have incredibly long names or reference numbers. As a result, collectors often look to assign nicknames to pieces to avoid having to memorise a wildly complex string of numbers and letters akin to a Wi-Fi password. Many brands have pieces that boast such nicknames, but Rolex is certainly a prime example of this … ContinuedThe post Your votes are in for the new YG Rolex GMT Master II nickname – here are your answers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) at Watches & Wonders 2023 Revolution
Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Apr 5, 2023

Introducing the Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) at Watches & Wonders 2023

At the end of Day 3 at Watches and Wonders 2023, Team Revolution wound up at Frederique Constant’s booth where Wei held a discussion with an esteemed panel of guests about Revolution’s latest limited edition collaboration: The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Future Past (Salmon). This watch is an amalgamation of Frederique Constant’s history-making […]

The New Ming 29.01 Worldtimer Starts Another New Chapter Worn & Wound
Ming Apr 5, 2023

The New Ming 29.01 Worldtimer Starts Another New Chapter

Ming is back with a follow up to their 19.02 Worldtimer, released four years ago. That watch was something of a game-changer for Ming, adding a new complication to the brand’s repertoire, and served as an expansion of their design language. For the new 29.01 Worldtimer, Ming is once again taking a rather large step forward as the brand continues to refine their aesthetic and reimagine what a Ming can be. The concept of the new 29 series, according to Ming, is liquidity. The designs of watches in this new chapter, starting with the Worldtimer, will be defined by smooth, flowing lines, and an organic appearance. That, you might be thinking, kind of describes just about every Ming ever made. But on the 29.01 the brand has taken steps to make the watch appear seamless, as if it’s all of a single piece. The case does not have a bezel, for example, but the crystal is designed to merge directly into the case itself.  The dial is quite complex and appears to be made of two pieces: a main sapphire dial and a 24 hour metallic dial with a gradient effect. Both are heavily lumed, the sapphire portion with HyCeram ceramic Super-LumiNova X1 lume, but they have been executed in such a way as to appear to be merged together. The use of sapphire in the dial itself, the large box crystal, and in the handset contributes to a sense that all of the dial components are floating across different levels, according to the brand. It’s honestly tough to make sense of in the photos, but we ima...

Look into the future of Hyper Horology with the Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph Time+Tide
Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph Roger Apr 5, 2023

Look into the future of Hyper Horology with the Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph

Roger Dubuis pushes the envelope of haute horology for Watches & Wonders, with the introduction of the Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph It features a 360 degree tourbillon designed to eliminate the effects of gravity, and sports a rattrapante chronograph  The case material is 60% lighter than ceramic, and 13% lighter than carbon When supercars weren’t enough, … ContinuedThe post Look into the future of Hyper Horology with the Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: Happenings Around the Halls of Watches & Wonders SJX Watches
Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour Apr 5, 2023

Editorial: Happenings Around the Halls of Watches & Wonders

With the demise of Baselworld shortly before the pandemic and the evolution of SIHH into Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the Geneva fair is now the most important watch event on the planet. Having just closed, W&W; recorded massive visitor numbers and unexpectedly buoyant sentiment amongst industry executives. Despite the implosion of Credit Suisse the week before and assorted troubles around the world, sentiment at the fair amongst industry insiders was robust, catching most by surprise. Brands executives indicated orders from retailers were good as was interest from clients, and expressed optimism for the coming year. Pessimism was hard to find, although a handful of well-placed individuals high up in important brands quietly pondered what things would look like in six months – the health of components suppliers to the industry will provide a clue. The irony is that brands run by such thoughtful individuals are usually the best placed to weather any downturn. Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour (left), who is also the chairman of the W&W; foundation Everyone wants a look To anyone who was at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the most tangible fact was the enormous and occasionally unmanageable crowd. According to its organisers, visitors numbered 43,000, compared to just 22,000 last year. Unsurprisingly, the celebratory mood of the organisers was clear in the closing announcement for the event. However, the preparations for the jump in visitors were clearly insufficient because ...

Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm Time+Tide
Norqain presents Apr 5, 2023

Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm

 Norqain introduces new Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41 Steel & Gold Hints of 18K 5N red gold are injected into the design through the bezel, hands, counters, and Norqain logo 100m water-resistant 41mm case, automatic day-date chronograph calibre Norqain has a very clear and specific lane for their watches: they must be robust, high-performing and … ContinuedThe post Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On with All the New Zenith Releases at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Zenith Releases Apr 4, 2023

Hands-On with All the New Zenith Releases at Watches & Wonders

Zenith relaunched their Pilot this year, in one of the most closely watched releases of Watches & Wonders. It’s one of those watches that was just hard to know what to make of it until seeing it in the metal (or ceramic), but both Zach Kazan and Blake Buettner were surprised by it in different ways. Here are their thoughts on the new Pilot watches, as well as a pair of genuine sleepers: a Defy Revival Shadow in bead blasted titanium, and an all new Defy Skyline in full ceramic (including the bracelet).  Pilot Zach: What I found when I finally went hands-on with the Pilot watches at Watches & Wonders last week was a collection of aviation inspired watches that didn’t feel the need to hew too close to tradition, either Zenith’s or the genre of pilot watches more generally. These watches, actually, reminded me of my favorite vintage Defy references in a surprising way, in that they were weird and unexpected, but still worked and were fun to wear. This isn’t a typical pilot watch in the same way a Defy from the mid-70s isn’t a typical sports watch. Their sensibility is tweaked just a little, to the point where there are few direct comparisons you can make to other watches. I guess what I’m trying to say is that they’re original in a way that few watches in this category are anymore.  The chronograph is the standout, in my opinion, and if I had to choose, I’d take the one in steel. There are two things about this watch that I really love. First, the way the ac...

Grand Seiko Adds Five New Non-Limited Ever-Brilliant Steel Options to the Heritage Collection Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Adds Five New Non-Limited Apr 4, 2023

Grand Seiko Adds Five New Non-Limited Ever-Brilliant Steel Options to the Heritage Collection

Grand Seiko had several noisy releases at Watches & Wonders this year, the Tentagraph chief among them. But there was a quiet drop in Geneva this year that might be of even more interest to some Grand Seiko collectors and enthusiasts, and is almost certainly a window into what the brand is planning for the future. Grand Seiko has released a total of five watches in their Heritage Collection that effectively serve as upgrades to existing models in, but are now available in Ever-Brilliant Steel. This marks only the second time the brand has used Ever-Brilliant Steel in non-limited references, following up on last year’s SLGH013, which we covered here. A total of three GMTs and two time and date models have just been introduced in Grand Seiko’s most iconic case shape using the proprietary alloy, and they’re at once totally familiar and offer something new for the most dedicated Grand Seiko collectors.  Before we break down the watches, a quick review of the Ever-Brilliant Steel material is in order. Aesthetically, Ever-Brilliant Steel distinguishes itself from standard steel with its bright white color. It’s tough to capture in photos, but in person it has a luster that makes it look and feel like something approaching a precious metal. It’s also significantly more corrosion resistant than standard steel, promoting increased longevity, which Grand Seiko reminds us is a key component of their watchmaking philosophy. The 44GS case, with its wide facets and unique geo...

Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom Apr 4, 2023

Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026

Grand Seiko makes the most of their gorgeous cherry blossom-inspired dial, this time in a rose-gold case The SBGY026 will appeal to the smaller-wristed, measuring in at 38.5mm in diameter and just 43.7mm lug-to-lug A manually wound Spring Drive 9R31 movement keeps the watch slim at just a smidge over 10mm It’s safe to say … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Chronograph SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 3, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Chronograph

At Watches & Wonders 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) is once again focusing on the Reverso, launching several new models along with new dial for existing references. The most notable debut is certainly the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which offers a minimalist primary time display on one side and a partially open-worked chronograph on the other. This new model pays tribute to the Reverso Chronographe Retrograde of 1996, perhaps one of the best watches of that decade and one that helped solidify JLC’s status as a master of complications. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph reimagines the original for a new generation of collectors while being different enough to be its own watch. The reverse face with the chronograph as well as additional time display Initial thoughts On its face (no pun intended), the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is good value, offering a novel and compact chronograph movement with classic but unusual aesthetics thanks to its two faces. A key different between this and the original is the double-sided time display (that shows the same time on both faces). Initially, I was disappointed by the addition of a time display on the chronograph side of the watch. In my view, part of the charm of the original was the single-minded focus of each side. But upon reflection I’ve come to view this change as an upgrade, since it now enables the user to wear the chronograph side up as a primary time display when desired. This practicality differentiates the Tribute from the o...

Hands On with the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire, the Most Audacious Sapphire Watch Hublot Has Made Worn & Wound
Hublot Has Made Apr 3, 2023

Hands On with the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire, the Most Audacious Sapphire Watch Hublot Has Made

And now, readers, we’ve come to that portion of our Watches & Wonders coverage that I know at least two of you have been anxiously anticipating, Yes, it’s now an annual tradition I guess, where I will wax rhapsodically about a mind bending Hublot novelty fit for a modern version of an 18th century French king. I can’t really think of a better way to describe the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire than to contextualize it with something commonly understood to be shorthand for over-the-top indulgence, but that’s what this watch is all about, in the best possible way. It’s a huge swing, which is exactly what I like to see from brands at Watches & Wonders. If I’m going to fly across an ocean and deal with travel delays at every step, I’d like to see things that I can only see in a presentation in the back of one of those enormous booths.  Last year I wrote about the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire and characterized it as one of the best watches of last year’s Watches & Wonders because it succeeded at being compelling from a watchmaking perspective while also being completely outlandish in a way that Hublot is uniquely great at. It marked a point in my own appreciation for the brand where they rose above the level of a mere curiosity and reached a point where, in my opinion, they are deserving of the respect given to any other serious innovator in contemporary watchmaking.  This year they’re back with a sequel of sorts to last ye...

Sherpa recreates the original EPSA Super Compressor case Time+Tide
Apr 3, 2023

Sherpa recreates the original EPSA Super Compressor case

Dive watches are more popular than ever, especially compressor divers. These ubiquitous watches herald from a time when horological engineering was at its peak, and when man’s explorative mind had no limits. Compressor divers were built to withstand submersion whilst remaining relatively thin and were therefore comfortable to wear. This was made possible by the … ContinuedThe post Sherpa recreates the original EPSA Super Compressor case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt. Hotaka Peaks” GMT is inspired by lush mountain woods Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt Hotaka Peaks” Apr 3, 2023

The Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt. Hotaka Peaks” GMT is inspired by lush mountain woods

The Grand Seiko SBGE295 takes the Mt. Motaka dial in a verdant direction with a silvery-green finish The asymmetrical bi-colour bezel is luminous in its white section, and is covered with a sapphire insert The 44mm case is 200m water resistant, and is powered by the 9R66 Spring Drive movement The term ‘forest green’ has … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt. Hotaka Peaks” GMT is inspired by lush mountain woods appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection in Ever-Brilliant Steel Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Apr 2, 2023

The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection in Ever-Brilliant Steel

The new Grand Seiko Heritage Collection features a 44GS case in Ever-Brilliant Steel. The material boasts a whiter lustre and better corrosion resistance than regular steel. The “Mt. Iwate” dial is available in silver, black, or blue across three-handed or GMT models. Lovers of Grand Seiko are most often won over by a myriad of … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection in Ever-Brilliant Steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches, Stories, & Gear:  The 1001-HP Lamborghini Revuelto, Bremont Activates DRS in Updated WR-22 (Spoiler Alert: April Fools!), The Last Overland is Coming to the U.S. & More Worn & Wound
Bremont Activates DRS Apr 1, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The 1001-HP Lamborghini Revuelto, Bremont Activates DRS in Updated WR-22 (Spoiler Alert: April Fools!), The Last Overland is Coming to the U.S. & More

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Road & Track New Titanium Road Bike By Mosaic: RT1-ITR Via Mosaic Cycles We love titanium watches (well most of us). And when we see the durable and lightweight material used in other EDC gear and gadgets, we love that too. Mosaic Cycles, known for their titanium bespoke road bikes using modern tubing designs, recently announced the RT1-ITR. This updated version of their flagship RT-1 is re-imagined with a 35mm tire clearance which provides an ideal balance between performance, traction and comfort. Like all Mosaic titanium models, the RT1-ITR uses a double-butted titanium tubing system that can be customized to the rider’s fit requirements, ride-preferences and build configurations. Via Mosaic Cycles That’s just the tech-y information. The Mosaic RT1-ITR is a mean looking thing. The drop bars and thicker tire system add an aggressiveness to the design, while the titanium sheen balanced by the brown tire accents make this entire package on two-wheels everyday eye candy for the owner and for those who happen to see this thing whizzing by. All-Bull: Lamborghini ...

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Rolls Royce Phantom II” Apr 1, 2023

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Having covered the notable from independent watchmaking and complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction on April 5, we turn to timepieces that are all about artisanal crafts, ranging from cloisonné and marquetry. Amongst the highlight is a Patek Philippe Dome Clock depicting the African savannah in cloisonné and another is the Cartier Tortue ref. 2496 with the jeweller’s signature panther motif. Important Watches I takes place on April 5, 2023. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2101: Cartier Tortue LM Panthere This wristwatch two enduring elements of Cartier design, a form case and the panther motif. It’s a large-size Tortue – French for “turtle” – with a panther on the dial in champleve enamel. The large variant of the Tortue (instead of the oversized “XL”), this measures 34 mm in diameter, giving the dial ample real estate for the panther. The panther’s visage is executed in champlevé, where the dial base is first engraved with the motif before being painted and fired. This is powered by the cal. 430 MC, an ultra-thin manual mechanical movement that is actually the Piaget cal. 430P. Accompanied by its box and papers, this has an estimate of HK$200,000-300,000, or about US$25,000-38,200. You can find out more in the catalogue. Lot 2131: Audemars Piguet “Rolls Royce Phantom II” Before becoming synonyms with the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet (AP) produced a diversity of elaborately decorated wrist- and pocket watc...

Rolex Introduces the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX Titanium Ref. 226627 SJX Watches
Tudor the Tudor Pelagos 39 is very Apr 1, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX Titanium Ref. 226627

Ever since Rolex discreetly revealed the one-off Yacht-Master in titanium made for Olympic sailor Sir Ben Ainslie, enthusiasts have been waiting for the commercially-available equivalent (which got all the more likely after the release of the Rolex Deepsea Challenge last year). And now Rolex has finally done it with the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. Similar to Sir Ben’s watch but with the addition of a date and matching titanium bracelet, the Yacht-Master 42 is perhaps the most restrained sports watch in the current Rolex catalogue.  Initial thoughts Being a long-time fan of the Yacht-Master line, I’m glad to see this has finally arrived. Though large in size, it’s lighter and consequently more wearable. The muted colours and finish give it a no-fuss, contemporary look that sets it apart from the usual sports Rolex, but it retains the recognisable Yacht-Master style with its relief bezel. Perhaps the recognisable look is the only aspect to critique: the watch is little changed in terms of design from past Yacht-Master models (which were mostly in precious metals). The option of a rubber strap as seen on Sir Ben’s watch, for instance, would have given the Yacht-Master collection some variety. At CHF13,400, the Yacht-Master 42 is priced reasonably relative to other Rolex sports models. However, compared to the all-titanium offerings from Tudor – the Tudor Pelagos 39 is very, very similar – this is less of a value proposition, but it is still a Rolex. A mo...

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has a bubbly personality Time+Tide
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has Mar 31, 2023

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has a bubbly personality

The new Oyster Perpetual Celebration is proof that the crown knows how to party Bubbly dials take on the colours of Stella-inspired OPs that sky-rocketed in popularity over the last few years Available in 31, 36 and 41 millimetre case sizes Rolex clearly tried to do their best to please as many of their fans … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has a bubbly personality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.