Hodinkee
Photo Report: Porsches And Watches In Eye-Popping Colors At Rare Shades 6
The show brought people, P-Cars, and plenty of watches to Toronto.
Results for Equation of Time
33,662 articles · 3,722 videos found · page 715 of 1247
Hodinkee
Fratello
Hands-On With The Steel Midsize Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds - A Surprisingly Unsurprising Novelty
Take a good look at the steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds in the pictures. What do you see? Exactly - a watch you didn’t think was a novelty. But it is. This medium-sized Reverso has all the trademarks of a traditional Reverso, along with a couple of updated tweaks. We go hands-on to […] Visit Hands-On With The Steel Midsize Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds - A Surprisingly Unsurprising Novelty to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Dubai Watch Week 2025 Highlights And Other Recent Releases
Over the last few weeks, we’ve seen an unseasonal deluge of watch releases, with brands big and small unveiling fresh pieces at an incessant pace. Today, on Fratello Talks, we’re taking a moment to look back at some highlights and reflect on what stood out to us. Nacho, RJ, and Thomas are on the microphones […] Visit Fratello Talks: Dubai Watch Week 2025 Highlights And Other Recent Releases to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Wimbledon Review: The Tennis Dial Datejust
The Rolex "Wimbledon" Datejust is a relatively recent fan-favorite among Rolex enthusiasts, with a distinctive design blending classical elegance with the spirit of sporting competition - much like the game of tennis that it celebrates. Here is what you should know about the Rolex Wimbledon watch, from the history behind it to the modern elements that can help you recognize one Wimbledon version over another. [toc-section heading="Datejust Origins"] The Datejust model that underpins the Rolex Wimbledon editions is not only one of the oldest and most enduringly popular models from Rolex but also one of the most significant and influential wristwatches in the world. When it debuted in 1945, the Rolex Datejust was the first watch that combined the robustness of the Crown's waterproof Oyster case (introduced way back in 1926) with the user-friendliness of its self-winding "Perpetual" movement (unveiled in 1931) - hence ushering in the telltale descriptor "Oyster Perpetual" that is now a ubiquitous presence on many Rolex watch dials. The Datejust was also the first watch to feature the now-widely adopted date display at 3 o’clock, the first automatic (i.e. self-winding) watch with a quick-change function for that date display, and the first to be mounted on Rolex’s now-famous five-row Jubilee bracelet. A few years later, in 1948, came the first Datejust with the bubble-shaped “Cyclops” lens directly above the date aperture, which magnified the date numeral by a ...
Worn & Wound
Opinion: Our Reactions to the GPHG Awards
We have some thoughts on the GPHG. Watchmaking’s biggest night is in the rearview mirror, winners have been named, and we’ve all had an opportunity to digest not just who won and lost, but what, if anything, the results signify about the state of the watch industry. Here, Zach Weiss, Griffin Bartsch, and Zach Kazan share their opinions on the winners, the show itself, and if we should pay much attention to it at all. Let us know in the comments below if you have any thoughts on the GPHG results, we’d love to hear them. Zach Weiss I’m never quite sure how to feel about the GPHG awards. On the one hand, it’s pageantry rather than an accurate assessment of the most recent year’s releases, as not all brands (very few, actually) participate, and fees are associated with it. On the other hand, it can be a great marketing tool for younger, smaller independent brands if they get nominated, or better yet, win – and there is just something fun about it. This is a luxury industry after all, so an event to celebrate itself is hardly out of the ordinary. As a member of the academy (pats self on back), being part of the voting process also has its entertainment value. But at the end, seeing who won is always a bit of a surprise. Not knowing what goes on in the final round of judgment, held by the elusive and annually rotating jury, the actual final results are still unexpected. And this year… well, it felt like a very tame selection that mostly celebrated brands that s...
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HUBLOT – Big Bang Unico Ferrari King Gold
Teddy Baldassarre
Maurice LaCroix Aikon Review
The watch industry only gets more and more competitive each year. Some brands have managed to thrive, and independent watchmakers are more game for the challenge than ever. Others, still, get somewhat lost within the mix. Today, I’m taking a deeper look at a brand that I honestly don’t hear much about, and, through the vehicle of its current flagship model, exploring what it has to offer. As you’ve already guessed from the title of this here article, the subject at hand is the Maurice LaCroix Aikon collection. Characterized by classic integrated bracelet style with a few specific quirks to the mix, the Aikon collection hasn’t managed to go mainstream like some similar competition. Down below, I’ll be walking you through a primer about the brand, the key ingredients of the Maurice LaCroix Aikon, and some personal ramblings on what the collection has to offer, and what it’s lacking. [toc-section heading="Context"] Like many Swiss watch brands, Maurice LaCroix has a history that can be traced back to the end of the 19th century. However, that historical journey is among the more atypical out there. This 19th-century connection is the Maurice LaCroix ties to its parent company, Desco von Schulthess, which was founded in Zurich in 1889, and for many years, had nothing to do with watches. Initially starting in the silk trade, after WWII, Desco von Schulthess expanded into luxury goods and acted as a distributor for Swiss watches to the Asian market. In 1961, the co...
Hodinkee
On Clockfaces, Dials, And Dashboards
Henry Catchpole recalls some of his favorite automotive gauges from a career spent behind the wheel of some of the world's most exciting cars.
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To Serica’s Sophisticated And Functional Expedition Bracelet
When most brands introduce a new watch, they make the bracelet look more like an afterthought than an integrated part of the design. It’s often a derivative of or a variation on the classic Oyster or Jubilee bracelet, which isn’t a sign of much imagination. Serica has never given in to that strategy. The brand […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To Serica’s Sophisticated And Functional Expedition Bracelet to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Why TAG Heuer is breaking new boundaries with a powerful Connected collaboration with New Balance
TAG Heuer's latest collab with New Balance, which pairs a Connected smart watch with running shoes, makes surprising sense.The post Why TAG Heuer is breaking new boundaries with a powerful Connected collaboration with New Balance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – Zenith Applies the Full-Gold Midas Touch to Selected Defy Skyline Models
Launched in 2022, Zenith’s Defy collection bridges the past and future in one fell swoop. The name dates to 1902 and refers to a line of robust pocket watches known as Defi. Following the launch of Zenith’s world-first high-frequency El Primero automatic chronograph movement, the Defy name was resuscitated for a line of hyper-robust, bulky […]
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Didun Design Automatic Watch Unboxing & Initial Impressions | AP Royal Oak Homage - $75
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Book Review: The Inconvenient Truth About the World’s First Waterproof Watch by Stan Czubernat
Watchmaking is full of gratuitous claims and overinflated marketing. One of the oldest is Rolex’s claim, still on their website today, that the Oyster Perpetual was the world’s first waterproof watch in 1926. These claims were the basis for Rolex’s reputation for reliability and ruggedness. While Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual was highly water resistant, it was not the first company to create a successful water-resistant design. That title belongs to Charles Depollier, who was fulfilling orders for the U.S. Army as early as 1919.
Time+Tide
Panerai’s PAM01759 Is a vintage-coded take on the Luminor Marina
This offbeat Luminor pairs a prominently domed sapphire crystal with a sandwich dial that uses Arabic numerals at every hour.The post Panerai’s PAM01759 Is a vintage-coded take on the Luminor Marina appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie - Straw You Can Actually Clutch At
You’re familiar with Max Büsser and his friends. The creations MB&F; produces are incredible, wondrous, and imaginative, but they’re also out of reach for the majority of watch enthusiasts. Let me introduce you to Schaefer & Companions, a brand recently founded in Le Locle that positions itself as an artistic platform. Christophe Schaefer, the brand’s […] Visit Introducing: Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie - Straw You Can Actually Clutch At to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Complicated Collectors: Gerd Ahrens
In the autumn of 1948, at Galerie Fischer’s auction house in Lucerne, a young Swiss watchmaker secured Lot 155, a Breguet pocket watch, No. 4763, circa 1848, with a straight-line club-tooth lever escapement. The case, fitted later by E. Brown at George Daniels’s suggestion to employ original movements and parts held in stock, aligned with his purpose. For most collectors, such a purchase might not have represented a pure Breguet. But for Gerd Ahrens, it was something altogether different: the first sentence in what would become a four-century narrative of mechanical ingenuity. Gerd Ahrens in his shop office on Schwanenplatz 7 around 1955. Image – Gerd Ahrens Foundation: a life built on wheels and springs Gerd Ahrens was born on September 18, 1920, in Hamburg, Germany, at a time when mechanical watches represented the pinnacle of portable precision. His father, Otto Ahrens, born in 1877, had already established himself as a highly respected watchmaker. Otto’s path, however, would be marked by the upheavals of the twentieth century. Before World War I, he had operated a successful shop in Paris and had built connections throughout the watchmaking centres of Inner Switzerland. The evidence of his skill was tangible: Otto personally built ten pocket watches, demonstrating not just commercial acumen but genuine mastery of the craft. Then the war came. Otto was forced to close his Paris shop in 1914, and the conflict left him penniless. A trained craftsman of the highest...
SJX Watches
Slimmer, Sharper Seamaster: Omega Updates the Planet Ocean
Omega marks the 20th anniversary of the Seamaster Planet Ocean with a full redesign, introducing a sharper, faceted case and a slimmer profile that addresses long-standing concerns about about the model’s thickness. The fourth generation design retains the headline 600 m water resistance and METAS-certified movement, but adopts a more contemporary silhouette that differentiates it from earlier generations. The anniversary launch spans three colourways - black, blue, and the signature orange - with the latter now priced in line with the Rolex Submariner. While the refresh enhances everyday wearability, it also moves the Planet Ocean slightly away from the recognisable aesthetic that has defined the collection since its 2005 debut. Initial thoughts The Seamaster Planet Ocean is a watch that carries a lot of nostalgia for me personally. The first generation model, launched in 2005, was the first mechanical watch I purchased for myself in my student days and while my watch, powered by the slim cal. 2500C, has seen the inside of the Omega service centre more times than I would have liked, it still has a place in my regular rotation, especially when the weather turns warm. The appeal of the Planet Ocean is its fresh interpretation of historical Omega motifs; it features details like the broad arrow hands without attempting to be a vintage remake. The collection was refreshed in 2011 and again in 2016, but it seemed to get chunkier with each new iteration, to the dismay of ...
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ULYSSE NARDIN – 4 new releases from 2018, inc. Classico, Marine and the Freak
Teddy Baldassarre
How Bronze Watches Patina
The bronze watch patina is one of the most fascinating, naturally occurring phenomena in watch collecting. So much so that it seemed every horological player wanted to put its own spin on this rugged, sea-worn metal around a decade ago. A lot has changed in watchmaking since then. Manufacturers have pushed boundaries further than we ever thought possible, offering enthusiasts a vast array of proprietary materials to choose from, with bronze taking its place alongside classic favorites like stainless steel and gold. Bronze watches remain a compelling choice among collectors today. Article by Nina Scally [toc-section heading="Bronze Watches Context"] Despite its association with maritime history, this corrosion-resistant material has infiltrated the pilot-watch sphere and established a foothold in the category of field watches as well. Today, bronze continues to cast its rich, warm nuances over some of the world’s most beautiful and evocative neo-vintage dive watches as well. Indeed, this ancient metal of seafaring legends appears to have secured its place on the wrists of watch enthusiasts for the foreseeable future. So there seems no better time than now to delve into how bronze has come to settle within the watch-collecting landscape, and why its slow-burning patina and rugged charm have cemented it as a modern collector’s favorite. [toc-section heading="How Patina Develops"] Would you ever walk into a dealership and ask, “Do you have something that’s alre...
Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Black Bay 54 Vs. 58 Comparison Review
If the modern success story of Tudor can be attributed to the launch of one distinct collection, it is, undoubtedly, the Black Bay. Like any intelligent watch brand, Tudor has taken that success and run with it full speed ahead, riffing and launching distinct extensions and sub-collections within the Black Bay universe that, at this point, are designed to meet the wants and needs of just about every enthusiast out there. Today, I’m going to be putting two distinct lines within the Black Bay family head-to-head that are, to the untrained eye, quite similar, but take on the vintage-revival theme in two distinct directions: the Black Bay 54 and the Black Bay 58. Down below, I’ll get into the nitty-gritty of what these two members of the larger Black Bay family have in common, and the intricacies that, together, have profound effects on what they deliver. After our short and sweet history lesson, I’ll be diving right into the key details of the Tudor Black Bay 54 vs. 58, all while interjecting my own musings and philosophies on how to approach these subtle differences. [toc-section heading="Tudor Black Bay Context"] As always, I’m going to keep the history lesson as concise here as I can, but if you have a bit more time, I’d recommend checking out this complete guide to the Tudor Black Bay. Anywho, the story of the modern Black Bay begins at Baselworld in 2012 (initially dubbed the “Heritage Black Bay”). After years of struggling in the shadows of the Crown a...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Daisuke Jigen Edition
Zenith returns to the world of Japanese manga with the Chronomaster Revival Daisuke Jigen Edition. This new limited series once again turns an animated fantasy into a very tangible El Primero chronograph. The brand’s connection with Lupin the Third goes back to the early 1970s, when Daisuke Jigen, the sharp-suited marksman of the series, was […]
Time+Tide
Armin Strom’s One Week Skeleton Rose Gold goes fully openworked, in serious style
Armin Strom debuts its first skeletonised take on its architectural One Week design, decked out in warm rose gold, for Dubai Watch Week 2025.The post Armin Strom’s One Week Skeleton Rose Gold goes fully openworked, in serious style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Depancel Allure Black Tangerine Chronograph
A young French brand with a very clear mission, Depancel aims to produce mechanical watches inspired by classic motoring. Even the name is a contraction of Delage, Panhard and Facel Vega, three storied French carmakers. That automotive spirit runs straight through the Allure collection, the brand’s chronograph line, “imagined for gentleman drivers”. The latest model, […]
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Fully Automatic Tevise 999 with open heart and \
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01759, A Clean, Purpose-Built Return to Form
There’s been a feeling in recent years that the Officine has lost a bit of its edge and true spirit. Too bold, too modern, too technical… It felt like the Firenze-based brand was searching for its true meaning. However, Panerai’s latest releases, such as the PAM05218, a re-edition of the cult 1993 Luminor Marina Militare, […]
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton’s Escale Dons Turquoise and Malachite
Louis Vuitton expands the Escale line with a pair of limited editions featuring turquoise and malachite stone dials – and unusually, matching stone mid-cases. By integrating the case band in the same material as the dial, the brand elevates the familiar Escale silhouette into something more sculptural, while retaining the signature riveted form inspired by its historic trunks. The result is one of the more distinctive takes on the current stone-dial trend. The platinum-and-titanium construction allows for a double-walled case with a stone ring on the outside, giving the watch proper water resistance, while the larger 40 mm case creates space for colour and texture to shine. With only 30 pieces in each colourway, the editions reinforce Louis Vuitton’s ambition in high-end watchmaking. Initial thoughts This year has been a strong one for Louis Vuitton, an ambitious trunk maker seeking to prove itself as a serious watchmaker. It certainly has the industrial means to accomplish that through its control of Geneva-based La Fabrique du Temps and what is clearly a deep bench of design talent. The latest pair of Escales takes the stone dial trend to its logical next step: stone cases. Thanks to the upscale construction, it avoids the trap of feeling gimmicky, unlike, say, the Tissot Rockwatch. The quality is outstanding which helps rationalise the steep price tag. The distinctive construction of the Escale case makes it an almost ideal platform for the stone case band, so it is...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Lightweight Tissot PRX Titanium 38mm
For a while, we thought we had seen it all when it came to the Tissot PRX. As most of you know, the brand rapidly expanded the collection with a wide variety of dial colors, a smaller size, and different executions of its big hit. This begged the question of what the creative folks at […] Visit Hands-On With The Lightweight Tissot PRX Titanium 38mm to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s Intelligent Watch Winder Sets the Calendar
Audemars Piguet unveiled the unexpected at Dubai Watch Week: an intelligent watch winder created in collaboration with Dubai Future Labs. Designed specifically for the brand’s latest perpetual calendar calibre, the device uses computer vision, a motorised arm, and Bluetooth connectivity to wind the watch, read the dial, and set all calendar indications automatically. It’s a curious blend of haute horlogerie and consumer robotics. Initial thoughts Perpetual calendars have long bedeviled collectors and after-sales service departments alike. Often tedious to reset after non-use, they can break or bind if adjusted at the wrong time. In the past couple of decades, this problem has been largely solved by watchmakers like Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, Stephen McDonnell, Andreas Strehler, Greubel Forsey, F.P. Journe, and most recently by Audemars Piguet. Given that Audemars Piguet is among the names that have developed a fool-proof perpetual calendar, the intelligent watch winder seems like a solution in search of a problem. The choice of the launch platform is also puzzling. On one hand, I understand why Audemars Piguet would develop the winder for its new cal. 7138; it makes sense to promote the new product. But on the other hand, the box would be far more useful if it worked for the brand’s earlier generations of perpetual calendars, which are more liable to break from improper use and need to be adjusted using pushers in the case. There are also many more of them in circulation, ...
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Live from Dubai Watch Week
Episode 20 of the SJX Podcast comes to you live from Dubai Watch Week 2025, which has just concluded. The event brought together many leading independent watchmakers, industry executives (including a rare appearance Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour), and perhaps most importantly a big audience of collectors from around the world. The new venue in Burj Park brought a more sophisticated feel to the event, which was by far the largest in its history. SJX and Brandon share their quick reactions on the final day of the fair. Note that given the recording environment, this episode has no video. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
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