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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: John is blown away by the dial of his Ming 17.06 Copper Time+Tide
Ming 17.06 Copper While still Jul 2, 2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: John is blown away by the dial of his Ming 17.06 Copper

While still in its infancy compared to the historical juggernauts of the horological world, Ming is already turning heads for all the right reasons. One of the heads they have turned is none other than John, who took a chance on a brand he hadn’t known a whole lot about and purchased the Ming 17.06 … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: John is blown away by the dial of his Ming 17.06 Copper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248, a study in the magic pairing of gold and blue Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 Jul 1, 2020

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248, a study in the magic pairing of gold and blue

Editor’s note: We all love blue watches. That much is clear, with the popularity of the blue dial stainless steel sports watch escalating almost beyond belief in 2019 and still in 2020. Both vintage and modern examples of blue watches from a few of the best watch manufacturers in the world command ever-increasing prices as appetites … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248, a study in the magic pairing of gold and blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jul 1, 2020

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”

When Tudor announced the original Black Bay Fifty-Eight in 2018, it arrived to critical and commercial acclaim. With strong vintage cues and slimmed-down proportions, the “BB58” was what many enthusiasts had been asking for. And it turned out that the broader, watch-buying public also wanted exactly the same thing. Now Tudor has just rolled out a new variant of its bestseller – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”. Essentially the same watch as the original BB58 – with the same in-house MT5402 movement – but now with a navy-blue dial and bezel, making it more contemporary. Initial thoughts The original BB58 is my favourite in the Tudor collection because of its sleek and wearable dimensions. At 39 mm by 11.9 mm, it wears significantly better than its chunky, 41 mm counterparts. Since its release, I have been excited about the prospects of the BB58 as a springboard for new models, so the BB58 Blue is a welcome addition to the line. The navy blue dial and bezel are the primary attraction of the new BB58 Blue, not just in terms of looks, but the historical basis of the colour, which harks back to the Tudor Submariner “MN” with a “snowflake” dial that was supplied to the French Navy, or Marine Nationale, in the 1970s. The blue “Snowflake” Submariner of the 1970s (left) and the BB58 Blue But blue is also fashionable, having come into vogue in recent years. While Tudor has never been a fashion-forward brand – if anything it is conservative in sty...

How Dials Are Made At The Glashütte Original Dial Factory In Pforzheim, Germany Quill & Pad
Glashütte Original Dial Factory Jun 30, 2020

How Dials Are Made At The Glashütte Original Dial Factory In Pforzheim, Germany

Glashütte Original dial factory manager Michael Baumann guided Bhanu Chropa through the complex process of manufacturing dials. He explained that depending on the complications of a given watch model, it takes 70 to 80 steps to manufacture a perfect dial. See for yourself in this interesting personal tour behind the scenes in Pforzheim, Germany.

Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic “Tuxedo” SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 30, 2020

Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic “Tuxedo”

Made up of modern reinterpretations of historical watches, the Longines Heritage collection has been steadily gaining traction with enthusiasts. Typically faithful to the originals and also great value propositions, the line up was just joined by two black-and-white “Tuxedo” watches, a two-counter chronograph as well as the time-only Heritage Classic “Tuxedo”. Initial thoughts Longines has made it a habit of reaching into their rich archive to churn out historically-inspired watches like the Avigation BigEye Chronograph. While the proliferation of remakes might dilute the desirability of the vintage originals, I appreciate it very much. Such remakes allow me to enjoy the vintage aesthetics, but in a watch with modern build quality and compelling pricing. And like earlier Heritage models, the new “Tuxedo” has strong vintage cues and little that gives it away as a modern watch. Notably, Longines omitted the customary “Automatic” label, and more importantly, the date, avoiding a recurring  pitfall for vintage remakes. The 1940s original (left) and the remake Highly legible thanks to the strong contrast, the dial has prominent Arabic numerals that add a bit of Art Deco flair that I adore. Its symmetrical layout with a small seconds at six o’clock also adds to the visual charm. Overall, the watch is balanced and clean, with no unnecessary elements to distract from its simplicity. While the aesthetics are vintage-inspired, the case has been slightly upsca...

Rolex, Patek Philippe and Richard Mille - the Liverpool players’ watches are as spectacular as their football Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Jun 29, 2020

Rolex, Patek Philippe and Richard Mille - the Liverpool players’ watches are as spectacular as their football

The 30-year wait is over. Liverpool are Premier League champions, having clinched the title with a record seven games of the season to spare. Frankly, it turned into an annihilation. Jürgen Klopp’s team won 26 of 27 league games from August to February 28 and haven’t lost at home in the league for three whole … ContinuedThe post Rolex, Patek Philippe and Richard Mille – the Liverpool players’ watches are as spectacular as their football appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Romain Gauthier Introduces the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette SJX Watches
Ming Jun 29, 2020

Romain Gauthier Introduces the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette

Romain Gauthier’s latest watch is a skeletonised version of its Insight time-only automatic first introduced three years ago. The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette retains the same style as the brand’s other watches, but with more elaborate finishing thanks to the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Romain Gauthier excels in finishing and the new watch undoubtedly has even more of the brand’s top-quality work since there are more surfaces to decorate. The skeletonisation also goes well with the movement, accentuating the long curves and sharp points that are typical of Romain Gauthier style. Importantly, it’s not just a visual upgrade, but also a tangible one – instead of the usual brass, the bridges and base plate of the skeletonised movement are made of titanium. But the titanium parts are finished to the same degree as a standard brass movement, which is quite a feat. And the basic Insight is already a well-conceived watch in the first place. It avoids some of the impractical features, like button winding and back winding, that Romain Gauthier installed on earlier models just to be different. That said, the skeleton version also suffers from one shortcoming of the standard model, which is the thick, 12.9 mm case. Nonetheless, the Insight skeleton is largely an enhanced version of an already-excellent watch. The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette with a carbon-composite case The only downside is the price – which is no doubt justifiable. The skeleton in an 18k gold...

The Awesome Door Handle Built Like a Split-Seconds Mechanism SJX Watches
Jun 28, 2020

The Awesome Door Handle Built Like a Split-Seconds Mechanism

Established by a robotics entrepreneur, Sick Toiz specialises in, well, “sick toys” – exceptional objects with a mechanical bent that have been produced with high-end methods and then finished by hand. Amongst its most extraordinary, and preposterous, creations is the Rattrapante Passage Lock, a door lock and handle that functions like a bona fide split-seconds mechanism. Initial thoughts The Rattrapante Passage Lock is an ordinarily trivial item – it is in essence a door knob – executed to an excruciatingly high standard. Clearly catered for a niche clientele who have an innate appreciation of engineering, finishing, and machining, the Passage Lock costs US$63,500. It is ridiculous, but also incredible. Sick Toiz founder Tyler Schilling obviously spared no expense in building an ultra-complex door handle, either in design, manufacturing, or finishing. The components, for instance, are made on a five-axis CNC machine, instead of a four-axis CNC machine, which would have simpler and probably yielded a barely discernible difference. Even the spokes of the split-seconds wheel have bevelled edges. Something like this is only possible when conceived by someone who genuinely appreciates such things and importantly, someone who can afford to back such a project as a hobby. An engineer’s eye The man behind Sick Toiz, Tyler Schilling, is a nerd in the best sense of the word. Having grown up with a father who was mechanically inclined but a doctor by profession, Mr Schil...

HANDS-ON: The Bremont ALT1-P2 JET might just be the blacked out chrono you’re looking for Time+Tide
Bremont ALT1-P2 JET might just Jun 27, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Bremont ALT1-P2 JET might just be the blacked out chrono you’re looking for

Aviation is the pinnacle of human endeavour. The simple dream of wanting to fly has allowed the very best engineers, scientists, artists, and countless other professionals to flex their talents and serve Earth’s globalisation. Adventure and ingenuity go hand-in-hand when it comes to flying, and so too does it go with Bremont. The English-bred company … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bremont ALT1-P2 JET might just be the blacked out chrono you’re looking for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Miki Eleta Natuhrzeit: Telling The Time Poetically With Nature. And There’s Music Too Quill & Pad
Jun 27, 2020

Miki Eleta Natuhrzeit: Telling The Time Poetically With Nature. And There’s Music Too

There are clocks that deserve to be talked about, written about, bought, and enjoyed. And this goes double for any and all of the unique timepieces by independent horologist Miki Eleta. Elizabeth Doerr had the pleasure of seeing Eleta’s latest masterpiece, Natuhrzeit, at Baselworld 2019 and she has not been able to get it out of her mind since. Enjoy the show!

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Omega movements But now Jun 26, 2020

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie made a name for itself with its beautifully crafted watches that capture the grace of 1940s timepieces. But all of its work so far has centred on time-only watches, all powered by heavily decorated vintage Omega movements. But now the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph takes things to a whole new level. Retaining the elegant feel of the brand’s earlier creations, the AdC #8 is powered by a reworked movement that started out as a Venus 185 but completely reworked by Atelier de Chronométrie, with a substantial number of parts made from scratch. Commissioned by an American collector, the AdC #8 is largely hand made, with everything hand finished to a superlative, artisanal standard, which is why it took took two years to complete. Initial thoughts I first found out about this watch late last year, and it sounded promising given Atelier de Chronométrie’s track record in design and movement finishing. Though I am going by photos, the finished product definitely lives up to expectations, and then some. Everything about it is just done extremely well, and while it costs a lot of money, the AdC #8 is compellingly and reasonably priced as such things go. Having closely examined Atelier de Chronométrie’s earlier watches, the AdC #8 will undoubtedly have the same feel – visually similar to a vintage watch but much more solid in the hand thanks to a more robust, modern case. A little under 40 mm in diameter, the AdC #8 has the proporti...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the New Lange 1 Time Zone SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jun 25, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the New Lange 1 Time Zone

One of the most high-spec travel watches on the market, the Lange 1 Time Zone has just gotten a major revamp. The new Lange 1 Time Zone looks pretty much like the old one, but it’s powered by a brand-new movement that’s been developed from the ground up. Though it retains the same functions as before – plus a basic daylight savings time reminder – the dial has been improved, both in terms of display as well as details. Initial thoughts The original Lange 1 Time Zone was an ambitious travel watch that did a lot – twin time zones with individual day and night indicators, cities disc, oversized date, and power reserve. Functionality was maximised, but the interface and display was complex. The new Lange 1 Time Zone takes it a step further with the addition of a simple daylight savings time reminder that’s discreet enough to be almost invisible. But because the watch still has so many features, the interface inevitably remains complex, with two pushers plus a crown, making it a bit fiddly to use. Add to that the large and heavy case, and the Lange 1 Time Zone isn’t the most practical of travel watches. It really is for someone who appreciates the technical complexity and also enjoys interacting with the watch. Technical accomplishment remains an appeal in the new model. In typical Lange style, the new watch is powered by a movement developed from the ground up. A substantial amount of effort was expended to retain the same look – as was done with the Lange 1 ...

State of the Industry: The Luxury-Watch Market in China After the Pandemic SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton boutique Jun 25, 2020

State of the Industry: The Luxury-Watch Market in China After the Pandemic

By far the most important markets for luxury watches, China and Hong Kong together accounted for over 21% of Swiss watch exports in 2019 according to trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Add to that Chinese travellers who buy watches overseas, and the fact is the luxury-watch business is dependent on Chinese demand. So the crucial question for the watch industry’s future – what’s happening in the Chinese watch market post-pandemic? On May 10, one of the trending topics on microblogging platform Sina Weibo was the US$30 billion plunge in the net worth of LVMH chief Bernard Arnault, mirroring the sharp drop in LVMH shares. But barely a week before – exactly a month after the end of Wuhan lockdown – there were nearly 100 customers queuing outside the Louis Vuitton boutique in Shanghai’s Plaza 66, all eager to shop before the brand’s price hike. The line outside Louis Vuitton reflected the rebounding demand for luxury goods in China as it emerged from a lockdown. “Macro Data Indicates a Surge in Consumption” – read the headline in the business-focused Workers’ Daily newspaper on May 16. The sentiment is backed up by the latest data from the National Bureau of Statistics of China published in mid June. Though the statistics indicate retail sales of consumer goods declined 13.5% on a nominal basis from January to May, totalling RMB1,387.3 billion for the year to date, the monthly figures indicate a recovery is underway. The monthly numbers s...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Jun 25, 2020

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition

Early in the year, TAG Heuer unveiled the Carrera 160 Years Silver, a remake of the Carrera 2447S from 1964 – a watch many consider the quintessential vintage Heuer. Continuing with the 160th anniversary commemoration, TAG Heuer has just debuted the the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition. Limited to 1000 pieces, the Montreal Edition has an eye-catching dial inspired by the funky Heuer Montreal (ref. 110503W) of 1972. The colours give a different dimensions to the Carrera 2447S, which was historically offered only in no-nonsense colours of black or silver. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Montreal Edition has a completely different personality compared to the Silver Edition that preceded it, despite both being essentially the same watch. While the latter is more restrained and somber with its monochromatic colours, the latest edition is fun and casual thanks to the colours taken from the white-dial Heuer Montreal (which was also available in black and blue). I like my watches to be understated, so I prefer the Silver Edition, though I can see this version appealing to anyone who loves an extroverted watch. Overall, the watch is a great fusion of the Heuer Montreal and Carrera 2447S, combining the colours of the Montreal with the classic style of the Carrera. The Heuer Montreal (left) and the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition TAG Heuer did a good job of translating the key elements of the Montreal into the Carrera, such as the yellow accents on the minute count...

Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1: Making A Watch The Traditional Way (Video) Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Making Jun 24, 2020

Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1: Making A Watch The Traditional Way (Video)

Our friends at The Watches TV have published a beautiful three-part video series on manufacturing a watch fully by hand as demonstrated by Greubel Forsey’s recent Hand Made 1. In this series, Marc-André Deschoux and his team get deep into the manufacture and talk to all of the artisans involved, beginning with founders Stephen Forsey and Robert Greubel.

Buying a “birth-year” watch for your kids is the excuse you need to beef up your collection Time+Tide
Jun 23, 2020

Buying a “birth-year” watch for your kids is the excuse you need to beef up your collection

Why do we have children in the first place? To anchor our rudderless lives with a faint sense of meaning? To give and receive unconditional love? To experience the most profound and humbling experience that is available to humanity? No, no and thrice no! We have children, of course, as a half-arsed excuse to buy … ContinuedThe post Buying a “birth-year” watch for your kids is the excuse you need to beef up your collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 23, 2020

Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”

Longines is continuing its streak of affordable and handsome remakes of vintage watches, with the last big hit being the Heritage Classic “sector” dial, with the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”. Modelled on a 1940s chronograph powered by the cal. 13ZN, regarded by collectors as the brand’s best chronograph movement, the remake gets its nickname from the stylish black-and-white dial. Initial thoughts There’s almost nothing to criticise in the new chronograph. Aesthetically, it is spot on. The design is faithful to the original, smartly doing away with the much-derided extras of the date and “automatic” often found in remakes. It’s a moderate size, albeit a bit thick. The movement is modular, rather integrated. But it only costs US$3,000, which is excellent value for money. More generally speaking – and this is criticism – Longines has rolled out several well-executed remakes in recent years, notching hit after hit. Paradoxically the success has made the Heritage remakes a little less appealing, just because there are so many of them – and most of them are pretty good. When the original Legend Diver was introduced in 2007, it was special, because the only affordable, good-looking remake. That said, it doesn’t take away anything from the watch itself; the new chronograph really is a compelling buy. Two-tone and tachymetre The Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” manages to capture most of the elements of the original. The dial is in silver...