Revolution
Introducing the Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue
Zenith’s DEFY 21 chronograph continues to be an effective canvas for its more colorful side, now with the Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue.
Results for The Rolex Submariner History
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Revolution
Revolution
Fliegers Under the Radar
Pilot’s watches are a popular genre, and the German “flieger” is perhaps one of its most sought-after styles. We look at 10 flieger chronographs that fly under the radar but pack a mighty punch.
Deployant
Presenting: Genus Dragon – the flight of the golden serpent
Genus releases a new version of their GNS 1 with a dragon motif. Named the Genus GNS 1.2 Dragon. Here is the release details.
SJX Watches
Russian Custom Shop HoD Presents the “Guiding Star”
A four-person workshop in Moscow, HoD Russia specialises custom watches at affordable prices. Because the team is made up of a sculptor, engraver, and two engineers, HoD’s offerings are diverse in style, with a focus the dial. Cofounder Vasiliy Avitisov describes the brand as specialising in “dials with high relief [made] from a variety of materials”. Amongst its recent project is the “Guiding Star”, commissioned by a watch collector based in Japan. Initial thoughts Conceived alongside the client, the Guiding Star is a good example of what HoD can do. The dial is minimalist in function, yet decorated and visually striking – and it is made in house, from raw material to finished product. The dial is made of an epoxy resin mixed and coloured in HoD’s workshop, and then machined into the dial disc. The purple contrasts against the hobnail guilloche sub-dial, while the client’s initials form the 12 o’clock market, a reminder that the Guiding Star is a custom watch. One of the joys of going full custom, so to speak, is being able to dictate even the smallest of details, such as the buckle. It’s been hand-engraved with the client’s initials flanked by a Japanese wave motif, or seigaiha. The personalised pin buckle With comparable watches starting from US$2,800, the Guiding Star illustrates the brand’s value proposition – time-0nly watches with a high degree of customisation. The affordability means that while the customisation can be elaborate, the ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue adds a touch of indigo to a high-tech tour de force
Only two weeks ago we introduced you to the firework display of bedazzling colours in the DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone, which hypnotised us with small, fresh flashes of the rainbow. This time, Zenith shows us how the angular tool presence of the DEFY series projects an image of quiet elegance, in the Zenith DEFY 21 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue adds a touch of indigo to a high-tech tour de force appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Are We Wrong About The TUDOR Ranger?
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage Sharp Edged GMT
Named after the planar, angular case, the Sharp Edged series is one of the most striking lines in the affordable Presage collection. The latest addition to the range is the Presage Sharp Edged GMT, the first models that go beyond time-only. With a larger case and new movement, the new GMT references – SPB217, SPB219, SPB221, and SPB225 – retain the asanoha dial pattern and case design of current models, while incorporating a second time zone function and power reserve indicator. Initial thoughts It’s pretty clear that the Sharp Edges models were conceive to offer some of the Grand Seiko, but in a less elaborate watch at a more accessible price. So it’s not surprising the new Sharp Edged GMT watches resemble the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT released last year. The dial layout is similar, as is the styling of the angular, faceted case. In many ways, the Sharp Edged GMT is the smaller brother of its Grand Seiko counterpart and one sharp-looking watch – no pun intended. Importantly, the Sharp Edged GMT is identical to the Grand Seiko GMT in terms of function. It is a true GMT watch – the second time zone hand can be set independently whilst the seconds hand is running. Majority of GMT watches in its price range are conventional movement with an added 24-hour hand, which makes setting the two time zones more tedious. Ultimately, the main attraction of the Sharp Edged GMT is its affordability. With a retail of US$1,380, the watch doesn’t have much competition ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The all black everything Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Black Black
The fan favourite Omega Seamaster Diver 300m is getting more than a facelift in 2021. That’s right, the watch best known for appearing on the wrist of 007 will now be available in full ceramic in the all-new Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Black Black. And that repetition in the name is for emphasis. This watch … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The all black everything Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Black Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTERVIEW: Collective™ Horology are reinventing the watch collectors’ club to create truly special collaborations
Watch enthusiasm is initially generated by the product – there’s no doubt that the art of watchmaking and the many resulting creations are the main draw that hooks people in. But what really sustains the hobby, and helps it grow, is the sense of community in watches. Within #watchfam there are many collecting groups dedicated … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: Collective™ Horology are reinventing the watch collectors’ club to create truly special collaborations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Montblanc Debuts the 1858 Split Second Chronograph in Lime Gold
A watchmaker that was once a prominent maker of chronographs, Minerva is the star in Montblanc’s mountain. Since the pen-turned-watchmaker took over Minerva, it has launched several chronographs powered by Minerva calibres. The flagship chronograph is arguably the mono-pusher split-second first launched in bronze two years ago. Montblanc has since rolled out several additional iterations, but in affordable alloys like titanium. Now the brand has finally unveiled the first precious-metal version, the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 in “Lime Gold”. Initial thoughts Two qualities often distinguish the great from the good in chronographs – a balanced, attractive dial combined with an intricate, good-looking movement – and all the better if the watch is priced well. The 1858 Split Second Chronograph is, by the two measures, a high performer. Let’s begin with the aesthetics. While splendid looking movements with high technical content are rare, it’s even less common combined with good design on the front. That is why I appreciate the 1858 chronograph – the dial is well done, with the positions of the counters just right, giving it a rare finesse. And even though the dial is busy, the many elements are harmoniously arranged. Admittedly, the design is not new, it’s essentially a replica of early 20th century dials, but Montblanc reproduced it just right. The counters at the sweet spot, not too far from the edge of the dial The movement is simil...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Chronograph.
Finally, after a five-year hiatus, my inner petrolhead is awakened from its slumber, and by a watch! I will not bore you with my younger days of owning British sports cars from the Triumph GT6 to a Lotus Elan to a lovely series 1 Jaguar XJ6 from 1970 with dark blue leather seats. But one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Chronograph. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Top 5 Favorite Rolex Watches - Guess What? Also Bought Another Watch!
SJX Watches
Molnar Fabry Unveils the Ultra-Thin Carpe Noctem Skeleton
Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry is a pair of jewellers-turned-watchmakers who specialise in elaborate skeleton watches. The duo’s repertoire is diverse, ranging from a repurposed split-seconds pocket watch movement from the 1930s to an Omega Co-Axial cal. 8500 that looks nothing like the industrially-produced original. The brand’s latest is unusual, its first ultra-thin dress watch. Commissioned by a client as most of its watches are, the Carpe Noctem (Latin for “seize the night”) is just 7.1 mm high, and powered by a reworked Vaucher VMF 5401. Initial thoughts The VMF 5401 is a finely constructed movement – as all of Vaucher’s movements are – but rarely decorated in such an artisanal, intricate manner. Molnar Fabry’s revamp of the movement reveals much of its detail, while also showing off the brand’s skill in working with metal. Because Molnar Fabry’s watches are all one-offs that are hand made, the aesthetic varies tremendously, depending also on the client’s taste. The Carpe Noctem is cleaner and sleeker than many of the brand’s other creations, but boasts just as much craftsmanship in the movement, which is a good thing. The chapter ring for the hours is steel finished with circular graining, with the Roman numerals being engraved and filled with black lacquer, while the hands are solid 18k pink gold At €35,000, Carpe Noctem is priced like earlier, comparable watches by Molnar Fabry. It’s a substantial sum of money, but a reasonable ask co...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Kojima Productions Limited Edition SSH097
Seiko’s pop culture collaborations have offered a sensational demonstration of playfulness and creativity in watch design of late. You need only look to their Street Fighter or Naruto-inspired Seiko 5 lineups to see just how unique these watches can be, but the latest collaboration with recently-independent Kojima Productions takes things up a notch, bypassing the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Kojima Productions Limited Edition SSH097 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Corum Golden Bridge Rectangle 40th Anniversary: A Bridge Engineered To Span Horological History
The year 2020 heralded the fortieth anniversary of the first Corum Golden Bridge. To commemorate the occasion Corum released the Golden Bridge Rectangle 40th Anniversary, a celebration of the Golden Bridge and a reminder of just how unique the original was when it was released.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots.
I’ve had quite a few microbrands in my personal watchbox. In fact, my first new mechanical watch after a waning vintage obsession was a microbrand. Due to the smaller nature of these businesses, one of the main attractions of buying these watches is the possibility of interacting with the brand owner during the retail process … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: The Citizen Calibre 0200
Citizen is one of the world’s biggest watchmakers, with its timepiece division generating about US$1 billion in sales each year – an output of several hundred million watches and movements annually. That vast manufacturing expertise means Citizen knows how to produce a fine mechanical movement. Now Citizen has finally accomplished it, and installed the movement inside a brilliant new watch. Launched earlier this month, The Citizen Caliber 0200 is equipped with the brand’s first mechanical movement developed from scratch as a high-end calibre (“The Citizen” is the name of the collection, while Caliber 0200 refers to movement as well as this specific model). Although the brand did launch a version of The Citizen with an automatic movement in 2010, the new Caliber 0200 is radically different, and tremendously superior. While the highlight is the new Caliber 0200, the entire watch is executed extremely well. The case and bracelet are outstanding, fabricated and finished so well there is nothing else that comes close in the same price segment. The quality of the watch was apparent in the press photos, which made me want to see it in the metal. I got my hands on a prototype for a couple of days earlier this month, an experience that left me substantially impressed. [Editor’s note: The watch pictured is a prototype, so it does contain a handful of hard-to-spot imperfections.] Initial thoughts On paper, the Caliber 0200 might seem uninteresting, being yet another sp...
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The Watch I'm Wearing To Start My Second Company.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection delivers three platinum tourbillons in skeletonised form
What’s better than one complicated Cartier? Three complicated Cartiers, especially when they arrive in a specially designed marquetery finished and lacquered wooden box. These three pieces that make up the new Cartier Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”, which share the two uniting themes of mystery and skeletonisation. But in a world where the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection delivers three platinum tourbillons in skeletonised form appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
WatchBox Commentary On Hodinkee Takeover Of Crown & Caliber And State Of The Pre-Owned Market
In 2020/2021, the pre-owned landscape has experienced a seismic shift called consolidation, led by the acquisition of online vintage and pre-owned dealer Analog/Shift by Watches of Switzerland in late 2020 and more recently Hodinkee purchasing Crown & Caliber. Elizabeth Doerr converses with pre-owned watch specialist WatchBox's CEO Justin Reis for views on the Hodinkee takeover and the current pre-owned market.
Time+Tide
A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Tissot PRX is a bargain-priced utility player on an integrated bracelet
Our European Editor, Mike Christensen, tested out the new Tissot PRX, a throwback to a classic design from 1978. After a week on the wrist, here is what he made of one of the most accessibly priced integrated bracelet watches around. What was your first impression? Hear me out here, but… surely I’m not the … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Tissot PRX is a bargain-priced utility player on an integrated bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Panerai Luminor Marina in Blue Automatic – the essence of Panerai: quick notes
Panerai first released the Luminor Marina with blue dial PAM01313 in 2020. The watch is a permanent model in the Luminor collection and is a contemporary staple of the brand.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Christopher Ward C1 Worldglow: The C1 Worldtimer, but brighter?
I mean, how many times are you going to need to know a time zone in the pitch blackness? Unless Carmen Sandiego has stolen all electricity and the sun, you’ll probably be able to track the time for her whereabouts just fine without the extra lume, gumshoe.
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ALL of my watches - Casio to Rolex (20+ watches) SOTC 2022
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs powered by in-house AP caliber 4401
We all know the “Holy Trinity” manufacturers can be called out at times for being on the slower side when it comes to product evolution. To be honest, that’s for a good reason, too. The pursuit towards perfection has to be careful and calculated, and each of the brands have to ensure their watches live … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs powered by in-house AP caliber 4401 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
5 Of The Most Innovative Wristwatches Ever Made – Reprise
Now, please don’t take this title the wrong way: this list is not definitive. Which is why it is not entitled “The 5 Most Innovative Wristwatches Ever Made." This list could have encompassed 15 or even 20 innovative wristwatches! And there are surely differing opinions. However, for Elizabeth Doerr these five timepieces encompass comprehensive parts of what is great about the modern world of wristwatches.
Time+Tide
Seven of the best G-Shock limited editions from the last 12 months
If variety is the spice of life, then whoever who signs off on the G-Shock limited-editions must have some extremely tingly tastebuds. The staggering range of influences that inform these pieces is like something out of a Dr Seuss fever dream, happily jumping from Borneo rainbow toads to NASA space travel. The sheer number of … ContinuedThe post Seven of the best G-Shock limited editions from the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
eBay joins the Instagram world with new @eBaywatches account
As we’ve previously reported, eBay are raising their game in the watch marketplace. One huge stride in the right direction came with their new eBay Authenticity Guarantee – a service where watches costing $2000 and above are eligible to be substantiated by an independent verification service before being shipped to the end consumer (currently only … ContinuedThe post eBay joins the Instagram world with new @eBaywatches account appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST Ceramic is a super deep diver (to the tune of 1km)
Ball’s Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST has been known for many things – the monobloc titanium case, an automatic helium escape valve built into the crown, lume you could light a nightclub with – but it’s fair to say it hasn’t always been fêted for handsome looks. Sure, last year’s DeepQUEST II had a personality to match … ContinuedThe post The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST Ceramic is a super deep diver (to the tune of 1km) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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