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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.

Breguet Introduces the Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jun 12, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia

One of the grandest and oldest watchmakers in the world, Breguet was founded in 1775 and usually sticks to watches very much rooted in tradition. Even its high jewellery timepieces are elaborate and lavish, but still old school. The new Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia, however, is a strikingly lively, ocean-inspired jewellery watch. Named after the Posidonia oceanica, a seagrass found the Mediterranean sometimes known as Neptune grass, the new Marine has an iridescent mother-of-pearl dial invisibly set with 85 gemstones to form an elegant floating-seagrass motif surrounded by baguette-cut gemstones. It’s very different from the usual Breguet fare – in a good way – especially in the coloured gemstone versions. The Poseidonia is available four variations, each distinguished by the combination of gemstones. While the diamond version is set only with diamonds, the emerald, ruby, and sapphire models are each set with a variety of gems – amethysts and tsavorites on the sapphire version for instance – to create a rainbow-hued decor. The ruby And emerald Initial thoughts Breguet has a penchant for making high-jewellery timepieces inspired by nature. Thematically, the Poseidonia is no different, but it is far, far more spectacular in visual effect. Going by the photos, the watch will no doubt be dazzling and unapologetically luxe – and a world away from the restrained elegance of the Marine for men. Watches that have been liberally set with gems tend to b...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Blue SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Jun 11, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Blue

Unveiled just last year, the Bell & Ross BR 05 was yet another luxury-sports watch with an integrated bracelets, but priced more affordably than the average. The flagship model of the line up was the BR 05 Skeleton, an urban and contemporary open-worked watch that’s just been given a new look. The BR 05 Skeleton Blue is essentially the same as last year’s model, but facelifted with a blue-tinted sapphire dial that gives it a punchier look. Initial thoughts The BR 05 is one of my favourites from Bell & Ross. The design blends the key elements of the brand’s flagship military-aviation watches like the BR 01 and BR 03, and incorporates them into a case that is modern and sharp, giving it arguably greater mainstream appeal than the military-inspired pilot’s watches. While the BR 01 and BR 03 are undoubtedly icons, their tool-like appearance and large case – 46 mm and 42 mm respectively – definitely dissuade some. On the other hand, the BR 05 is much more manageable on the wrist at 40 mm wide and 10.4 mm in height. Though it’s smaller than the BR 01 and BR 03, the case is architectural in form, and features myriad textures – polished and satin-brushed surfaces, often separated by polished bevels. The result is a smallish but appealing case that manages to look three-dimensional. I feel that the BR 05 Skeleton works better as a whole, compared to its solid-dial counterparts. The open-worked movement enhances the visual depth of the watch. While the blue-tinte...

IWC CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr On The 2020 Portugieser Collection, COVID-19, And His All-Time Favorite Portugieser Quill & Pad
IWC CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr Jun 10, 2020

IWC CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr On The 2020 Portugieser Collection, COVID-19, And His All-Time Favorite Portugieser

IWC CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr thinks that the COVID-19 pandemic will have a lasting effect. “The digital proximity we are experiencing right now may have a lasting effect on how we communicate with our customers, partners, and journalists. I think it is likely that we will put an even bigger emphasis on video content in the future.” Not only does Martin Green discuss this topic with the manager, he also discovers Grainger-Herr's all-time favorite Portugieser.

“Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection Time+Tide
Rolex Jun 9, 2020

“Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection

“I haven’t read your article yet about which action stars are wearing which watches,” IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr begins the interview by saying. “I just very much hope you haven’t got Jason Statham in there with his one Rolex in that one film, even though he buys and owns all his IWCs himself and wears … ContinuedThe post “Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Presage Arita Porcelain Dial “Suigetsu” SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 9, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Presage Arita Porcelain Dial “Suigetsu”

Having gained a big following for its tremendous value proposition, the Seiko Presage collection often features dials in artisanal finishes such as fired enamel and urushi, combined with solid movements and affordable prices. The latest to join the collection is the Presage Arita Porcelain Dial “Suigetsu”, which has a pure-white porcelain dial matched with dark blue hands and markers. The colours of the watch take inspiration from Suigetsu (水月) – literally as “water moon” – which describes a subtle, ethereal beauty that might be an illusion. It is also a nod to Tsukimi, which translates as “viewing the moon”, the Japanese autumn moon festival where the moon’s reflection on water is admired. Initial thoughts The Presage collection does democratise the artisanal methods used for dial making, the fairly large limited-edition runs dampen the appeal of each release. Even though the dials are made in large numbers, the dial-making process is complex and artisanal. But the new Presage is priced at only US$2,050, which makes it pretty much a bargain, just like many of the other Presage limited editions. I have always found porcelain dials to have a richer and more profound depth and texture when compared with enamel dials, although both have a similar glossy, smooth appearance. The Arita porcelain dials are exceptional for the price, boasting a silky and creamy finish that’s one of the most appealing dials found on a watch in this price range. Because ...

Kees Engelbarts Introduces the Argentium Tourbillon Skeleton SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jun 8, 2020

Kees Engelbarts Introduces the Argentium Tourbillon Skeleton

Born in Holland but now based in Geneva, Kees Engelbarts is one of the most prominent and established engravers in Swiss watchmaking. He moved to Geneva in 1994, and began a career as an independent engraving not long after. Amongst the brands he has worked for are major names like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Hublot, but also independent watchmakers like Philippe Dufour and Svend Andersen. Mr Engelbarts also makes watches under his own name, focusing on elaborately engraved or open-worked movements. His latest creation is the Argentium Tourbillon, an incredibly airy yet organic tourbillon that’s been skeletonised entirely by hand. Initial thoughts Mr Engelbarts is one of the oldest names in movement skeletonisation, so whether or not you like the aesthetic, the work is always excellent. His engraved creations are mostly figurative, often depicting a mythological creature, while his skeletonisation is usually organic and extremely striking. Though the look of the Argentium Tourbillon is too alien for me, the work is impressive. The bridges are refined and organic, and looking almost soft, but they are metal. Going from a full bridge made of German silver to an extraterrestrial life form is tedious work made up of cutting and filing. The craft is both delicate and physical, and similar to the craft of a high-end jeweller. A reductive process The Argentium Tourbillon starts with a CH016 movement made by Le Cercle des Horlogers, a movement specialist in Neuchatel that specialise...

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang e, a truly left-field smartwatch, including the only way you can (currently) buy it Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected watch Jun 8, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang e, a truly left-field smartwatch, including the only way you can (currently) buy it

Hot on the heels of the launch of the latest TAG Heuer Connected watch in March, their LVMH watch sibling has launched the new Hublot Big Bang e. And while it’s not surprising in itself - Hublot already play in this space - its execution has some genuinely eccentric touches. But first, the specs, because they’re … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang e, a truly left-field smartwatch, including the only way you can (currently) buy it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Paris Vendôme Limited Edition SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jun 8, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the Paris Vendôme Limited Edition

To mark the recent opening of its first store in continental Europe – and its biggest boutique in the world – Grand Seiko has unveiled the Paris Vendôme Limited Edition, either in platinum (SBGK011) or rose gold (SBGK013). With a dial motif inspired by the streets of Paris, the limited edition is powered by the 9S63 movement. Located at the corner of the posh Place Vendôme famous for being home to jewellers and the Hôtel Ritz, the new Grand Seiko boutique is the brand’s largest store ever, with a floor area of over 190 square metres (or some 2000 square feet) spread over two floors. Distinctly Japanese in style and materials – the floors are tatami and the screens, bamboo – the is the work of Kengo Kuma, one of Japan’s leading contemporary architects. The Grand Seiko Boutique Paris Vendôme Grand Seiko’s location on the square with the entrance to the store at the lower right corner of the photo, adjacent to the white awning Initial thoughts If the limited editions look familiar, it’s for good reason – they are based on the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection introduced last year, featuring the same case, movement, and dial layout.  The refined dimensions of the Elegance Collection immediately made it one of my favourites of the Grand Seiko collection. Although Grand Seiko watches are well designed and equipped with great movements, the cases tend to wear large and thick, something the Elegance Collection managed to avoid.  The 9S63 as seen in a ...

In-Depth: The Definitive Guide to the A. Lange & Söhne Handwerkskunst SJX Watches
Casio n Jun 7, 2020

In-Depth: The Definitive Guide to the A. Lange & Söhne Handwerkskunst

When Walter Lange celebrated his 90th birthday in 2014, A. Lange & Söhne marked the occasion with a short interview. Asked how he would define the brand, the great-grandson of Ferdinand Adolph Lange quoted the late Günter Blümlein: “A Lange watch is a fusion of the arts… [and] the unique technology and artisanship to which we are committed.” Lange has created many special watches since it was re-established in 1994, but one family of timepieces embodies Blümlein’s description – Handwerkskunst. A line of limited-edition watches, Handwerkskunst – which translates as “craftsmanship” – is defined by traditional artistic techniques of decoration and exemplary hand-finish, a combination that is truly a “fusion of the arts”. The goal of this article is to provide the context behind the creation of the Handwerkskunst series, and to detail the individual models. The focus will be on the details of each model, how they differ from their standard counterparts, and the realised prices at auction – livened up by my personal experience and opinion. Five of the eight Handwerkskunst models launched to date, without the Richard Lange Pour le Merite, Cabaret Tourbillon, and Datograph Why handwerkskunst? I am often asked why I love Lange watches. It’s a long answer, but one reason goes beyond the watch themselves – it is the brand’s determination to preserve and develop the artisanal crafts in Saxony. In fact, Lange is something of a hub for artisans in the ...

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, The World’s Thinnest Watch: Shaving Microns To Make Millionths Quill & Pad
Bulgari Jun 7, 2020

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, The World’s Thinnest Watch: Shaving Microns To Make Millionths

Talking about exceptionally thin mechanics leads us to world-record-holding thin watches, which inevitably leads to Piaget. These days constantly in battle with Bulgari for thinness world records, Piaget has recently released the production version of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, which now holds the record for thinness at just 2 mm. How is this even possible?

LONG READ: 12 life lessons with Black Badger, and a clapback to the “juvenile” response to his TAG Heuer coffee watch Time+Tide
De Bethune Jun 6, 2020

LONG READ: 12 life lessons with Black Badger, and a clapback to the “juvenile” response to his TAG Heuer coffee watch

If you haven’t heard of James Thompson, aka Black Badger, you’ve probably seen his brightly lit work online. He’s done collaborations with independent watchmakers such as MB&F;, De Bethune, and Sarpaneva, and has more recently been working with the King of Customisation himself, George Bamford. While much of what Black Badger is known for is … ContinuedThe post LONG READ: 12 life lessons with Black Badger, and a clapback to the “juvenile” response to his TAG Heuer coffee watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control Memovox and Memovox Timer SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Jun 5, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control Memovox and Memovox Timer

Having revived the Master Control models of 1992 earlier this year, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) was surely going to do the same for one of its longest-lived complications, the vibrating Memovox alarm. And so it has, with two new alarm watches in fact: the Master Control Memovox and the Master Control Memovox Timer. Both are powered by the same base movement, but the limited-edition Memovox Timer features an additional countdown function for the alarm. The cal. 956 with an open-worked, pink gold rotor Initial thoughts The base-model Master Control Memovox looks just like the Memovox of 20 years ago, and it is a good look. Now the case finishing has been upgraded, as has the movement – which is now visible through a display back – creating a tidy package that’s just right. And price-wise the new model is comparable to recent JLC alarm watches, which is fair, albeit still a bit pricey. A little bit more funky and countdown scale in relief, the Master Control Memovox Timer is a lot more expensive, almost 35% more expensive than the base model. It does have an added countdown function to go along with the fancier dial, but it is too expensive. Ringing since 1951 The Master Control Memovox is a moderate 40 mm in diameter, though fairly thick at 12.39 mm, a necessary consequence of the movement. Compared to its namesake watch of the 1990s, the case has grown slightly larger, but more importantly has an improve finish. It features contrasting polished and brushed finished on the ...

Editorial: The Rise of the Indian Watch Collector SJX Watches
Rolex watches as most were Jun 5, 2020

Editorial: The Rise of the Indian Watch Collector

Years ago, while attending a wedding in the southern Indian state of Kerala, I noticed most men in attendance were uniformly dressed – crisp, white linen shirt and matching mundu. Some milled about, some laughed over the most recent ministerial gaffe making the rounds, and others waited impatiently for the evening to end. For an outsider, the plainness of their attire seemed at odds with the occasion they were attending, except for the occasional glint of gold on their wrists, which caught my eyes more often than I’d anticipated. The heavy lustre of their Rolex watches, as most were, stood out because of the simplicity of everything else. Observing closely one could notice the subtle nods of affirmation exchanged between the men as they glanced at each other’s timepieces. For a culture obsessed with jewellery – India is the world’s second-largest consumer of the precious metal according to the World Gold Council – the country has taken predictably well to fine watches. Timepieces in precious metals form a substantial proportion of the gifts given to grooms – a practice that is, in a small but undeniable way, bringing the appeal of horology to a larger, otherwise untapped audience. A market in its infancy But the sales of luxury watches in India are far lower in proportion to its population as compared to say, China. According to trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), Switzerland exported 1.99 billion Swiss francs of watches to China in ...