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Revolution
Eleonor visits Vacheron Constantin’s manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates a couple of weeks before Watches and Wonders and the maison’s Style and Heritage Director, Christian Selmoni gives us a sneak preview of some of the novelties that will be launched at the fair. The retrograde complication is the theme for this year and we take a closer […]
Worn & Wound
Rolex has given the Daytona its first proper redesign since the 116520 was released in 2000. With it comes an updated movement, and a few nods to older references that we’ve been asking for, as well a surprise or two along the way. The new Daytona design replaces all existing references with a new base collection that spans from steel; yellow Rolesor; yellow, white, and Everose gold; and of course, platinum. Each receives an updated 4131 automatic movement which finally brings stuff like the Chronergy escapement to the collection. It also gets an openworked oscillating weight, which, for the first time ever on a Daytona, is visible through an exhibition caseback on the platinum anniversary reference. At a glance, the new Daytona doesn’t look all that different from the outgoing references. This is very much an iteration of the same concept that’s been evolving since 1953. The most immediately apparent departure from the prior generation is the thickness of the rings surrounding the sub dials, the shape of the hour markers, and the bezel construction. They add up to a notably different vibe that presents a slightly jarring take on the dial design thanks to the altered proportions. The thinner sub dial surrounds in particular highlight this difference, and it’s a detail most noticeable on the steel examples as they are contrasted against the dial color alone. The precious metal references get those sub dials filled in, which work well here. One of the most welcomed...
Hodinkee
A prototype surfaced years ago, and now the watch is a reality…on a bracelet.
Hodinkee
Emojis, inspirational words and stone dials!
Hodinkee
A thinner, curvier, and slightly more refined Tank Américaine keeps a classic fresh.
Hodinkee
The green-bezel Submariner was never an official Kermit. This one is. And it's so much fun.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
At Watches and Wonders 2023 the iconic Japanese brand shared their next innovative vision for their product line's direction: the SLG001G Tentagraph, their first ever mechanical chronograph.
Worn & Wound
The Ingenieur pivots back to its Gerald Genta design era this year with the introduction of a new collection that references the Ingenieur SL, reference 1832 from 1976. This is a move we (and likely, many of you) have anticipated since asking IWC CEO Chris Grainger about it back in 2021 on the Worn & Wound podcast (listen to that episode right here). The new Ingenieur collection welcomes three steel references that feature unique textured dials in silver, black, and aqua, and a full titanium reference with a gray dial. Each feature the new integrated bracelet design made famous by Genta in the ‘70s that we last saw in 2013 with the Ingenieur reference 3239. The new Inge takes a slightly softer approach and places an emphasis on ergonomics, and during our time with the watch in London last month, found it to be exactly that. This is the new Ingenieur Automatic 40 and yes, it still has a soft-iron inner case. The Ingenieur has a rather interesting history that reaches back to 1955 with the reference 666, where it embraced a classic round shape and simple dial befitting of the era. It was launched around the same time as the Rolex Milgauss, and filled a similar role, making use of a soft-iron inner case to protect the movement from magnetic influence (up to 80,000 Amperes per meter). The name has roots in Old French and Medieval Latin, according to IWC, evolving from “ingeniator” or “one who makes or uses an engine”. The word Inegnieur evokes a similar vibe, and b...
Hodinkee
A 39mm Rolex dress watch called 1908 just dropped in white and yellow gold. It's the first official member of the new Perpetual collection.
Hodinkee
Double the dials, double the fun. And if those two faces don't keep your head spinning, watch out for that tourbillon.
Hodinkee
Flip the new ultra-slim Small Seconds Reverso and you'll find 4 different colored dials.
Hodinkee
And yes, that's steel.
SJX Watches
German independent Kudoke has carved out its own niche with a distinctive blend of English-inspired movements and Germanic attention-to-detail in its Handwerk line of watches. The latest addition to the line is the Kudoke 3, which largely sticks to the successful formula of prior models, but offers a twist in the form of a split-level dial and triple-scale hour display. Once known primarily for ostentatiously skeletonised Unitas calibers, such as the watch worn by Dominic Monaghan’s character in Last Looks, Kudoke hit the reset button in 2019 with Handwerk line comprised of the Kudoke 1 and 2. The collection introduced a more restrained design aesthetic and importantly, brand’s first proprietary movement. The Kudoke 3 continues down this path, but goes further in terms of creative design. The Handwerk collection (from left): Kudoke 1, Kudoke 2, and Kudoke 3 Initial thoughts As a fan of modern German (and historical English) watchmaking, I’ve been impressed with the brand’s work since the launch of the Kudoke 1. Like Habring² and Laine, Kudoke offers a compelling alternative to mass-produced luxury watches. The Kudoke 3 is a thoughtful and unconventional addition to the Dresden-based brand’s growing collection, offering a novel time display with three scales for the hours along with a three-armed hour hand. This triple-scale calls to mind the distinctive seconds register of the 1990s Daniel Roth tourbillon (recently reborn as the Tourbillon Souscription), but ...
Hodinkee
The retrograde date has been a core part of the Vacheron lineup, but rarely has the brand done a version as sporty as this (and it's not the only new retrograde).
Deployant
The Hermes H08 line is extended with new cases/colours and a brand new monopusher Chronograph, and gemset moonphase watch.
Time+Tide
The discontinuation of the 39mm Rolex Explorer was a surprise, and its 36mm replacement, though a return to original sizing, left many wondering what Rolex had up its sleeves. Naturally, the crown had a plan, and it has now come to light in form of the new Rolex Explorer 40. Its simplicity remains untarnished, offering … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Rolex has finally revealed their new releases for Watches & Wonders 2023, and the Cosmograph Daytona is certainly among the most anticipated. Without further ado, let’s get right into the new features and the five new models that mark the model’s 60th anniversary. The new features The biggest new upgrade to the Daytona line-up is … ContinuedThe post Rolex treats us with FIVE new Daytonas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling brings a touch of dawn to the night sky dial. Its 1970s style case grounds the use of diamonds, giving it a sporty flavour. It uses a quick-change strap system, to use with the bracelet and the included white rubber strap. For those who crave both the energy of an … ContinuedThe post Sophisticated bling: The Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech marks a return for the 40mm Radiomir case. The use of Goldtech and a white dial offers a modern and sophisticated take on the vintage-inspired watch. It’s also the thinnest watch in Panerai’s current lineup, at a cuff-friendly 10.15mm. This seems to be the year of the Radiomir for Panerai, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Chopard Happy Sport 25mm is the smallest of its collection so far. The dancing diamonds are protected by a thin gold frame. Four references are available, with options for diamond set bezels and double-tour leather straps. It’s crazy to consider that it was only 30 years ago that diamonds first appeared on a steel … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Happy Sport 25mm becomes the smallest member of the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This new addition to the Chopard IMPERIALE collection pays tribute to an Egyptian legend. The lotus flower signifies the sun, and has inspired the day/night indicator dial. The calibre 96.30-L is an in-house marvel, featuring a healthy power reserve and micro-rotor. It’s hard to invalidate diamond-set watches when artisans like Chopard bring in new levels … ContinuedThe post The Chopard IMPERIALE delivers an exquisite dial that you won’t forget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Skyline series gets two new models, decked out in sinister full black ceramic The Defy Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic is a real contender among stealth-wealth showpieces Both models are powered by time-only El Primero calibres Zenith’s Defy collection has gone over to the dark side for Watches and Wonders. The brand has just released … ContinuedThe post Zenith’s Defy Skyline Black Ceramic models cross over to the dark side of horology appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For the model’s 50th anniversary, Baume & Mercier is launching three striking new dial variants for the Riviera 33mm. The flagship Riviera 33mm features a satin gold dial, automatic movement, and diamond bezel accents. The quartz Riviera 33mm offers two new lacquered dial choices, in vibrant blue or purple. The Baume & Mercier Riviera is … ContinuedThe post Baume & Mercier Riviera 33mm celebrate half a century of the Riviera model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Speake-Marin’s history is one drenched in luxury with bespoke offerings and a blend of tradition and futurism that very few brands can pull off as well. Last year, they changed gears by introducing the Ripples - their first integrated bracelet watch in steel. This is one of the most competitive markets for luxury wristwatches, and … ContinuedThe post The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans exudes casual elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With the flashiness of the Carrera Plasma and Aquaracer Full Gold, TAG Heuer takes a more subtle approach for their Watches & Wonders release celebrating the Carrera’s 60th anniversary. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox features a new case size, refreshed movement and a gorgeously vintage box-domed crystal that takes us back right to the … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer’s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most distinctive of all Radiomir designs, the “California” was nonetheless absent from Panerai’s catalogue for some time. Now it makes a comeback as the Radiomir California PAM01349. Essentially a cooler (and more expensive) version of the new Radiomir “Otto Giorni”, the PAM01349 preserves the signature features of the design, including the dial and blue hands, but works in a few concessions to modern tastes, including a smoked green finish for the dial as a scaled-down, 45 mm case. Initial thoughts The California has long been my favourite Radiomir so I am glad it is making a comeback. While it looks slightly vintage, the PAM01349 is clearly not a vintage reissue, which is a good thing. The combination of a green dial and aged case is an appealing one. However, the PAM01349 costs about 20% more than the Radiomir models with the same movement, a premium that isn’t grounded in any tangible features and thus hard to justify. Romans and Arabics The dial is classic “California” with Roman numerals on its top half and Arabic numbers on the lower half. Originally designed for legibility so each half of the dial is easily distinguishable from the other, the California dial was synonymous with the Radiomir. The PAM01349 preserves the original design, but the texture and colour are contemporary. Like most other recent releases, the dial has a grained surface and smoked finish, both in keeping with current tastes. The dial treatment gives the watch a vin...
Hodinkee
Cartier's most daring Santos-Dumont yet features a new in-house movement (oh, and lacquer is back too).
Time+Tide
New racing-inspired colourways for the 42mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Black and blue sunburst dials are offset with bright orange and red accents The watches are powered by the in-house column wheel chronograph calibre Heuer 02 The lineage of the Carrera is a rich one – beginning in 1963, named after the fearsome Carrera Panamericana … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer updates the sporty Carrera Chronograph with a welcome hit of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface looks to the brand’s history for inspiration Combining a retrograde date and tourbillon, it’s the next in line of complicated Traditionnelle references, the 2162 R31 calibre awarded a Geneva Seal The Openface sapphire dial’s gold surfaces are guillochéd by hand Despite what the name suggests, Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle collection … ContinuedThe post The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface blends classic complications with modern execution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Four new colours for a traditionally sized TAG Heuer Carrera time-only model A revised case profile with improved thickness and wearability Upgraded from Calibre 5 to Calibre 7 History is a hugely important aspect of any new Carrera release, owing to the rich heritage of the model and the moments and personalities associated with it. … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Carrera Date is a quarter in colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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