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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.
MB&F; Introduces the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser SJX Watches
H. Moser Partners Jun 5, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser

Partners for more than a decade in the supply of hairsprings, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F; have recently announced their first watch collaboration. Both mark their 15th anniversaries with a pair of watches that each brand designed for the other, blending the defining traits of both. MB&F; helped styled the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F;, while Moser added its signature aesthetic to the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser. A refreshing take on MB&F;’s simplest Legacy Machine, the new LM101 has a steel case and the option of four dial colours in Moser’s signature smoked finish – Funky Blue fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, red fumé, and Aqua Blue fumé – each limited to 15 pieces. The watch incorporates the aesthetic sensibilities of H. Moser & Cie on the front, along with a slight redesign of the movement. Initial thoughts Based on the photos, the new LM101 is one of the most appealing recent watches from MB&F;, though that isn’t really a surprise since it synthesises the elements that have made both brands successful – and the elements remain successful when combine together. The most apparent is the sunray-brushed, fumé dial that is very much Moser. Although the brand did not invent the look, the smoked finish has become synonymous with the brand – and the fumé effect also translates very well on the LM101. While the Moser fumé finish has been added, the traditional sub-dials (for the time and power reserve) of the LM101 have been removed. This streamlinin...

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In-Depth: Konstantin Chaykin and Telling the Time on Mars SJX Watches
TAG Heuer was appointed Jun 4, 2020

In-Depth: Konstantin Chaykin and Telling the Time on Mars

When Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin announced the Mars Conqueror last year, it was not the first Martian-time wristwatch, but it was by far the most advanced and comprehensive watch to indicate Martian time – and even the Martian calendar. TAG Heuer was appointed the official timekeeper for China’s Mars exploration mission in 2016, with its chief executive Jean-Claude Biver declaring that exploring the Red Planet is “the next giant leap for humanity”. With its launch planned for July 2020, the Chinese journey to Mars is just one of several missions to the planet – Russian space agency Roscosmos and NASA are working on similar projects. Despite the steady progress in reaching Mars, no big watch brand has debuted a watch that tells Martian time. Konstantin Chaykin’s experimental Mars Conqueror of 2019 But such watches have been built, as a matter of necessity for the scientists involved in past Mars missions. NASA’s Mars Exploration Rover (MER) of 2004, for instance, commissioned several watchmakers to construct simple but effective Martian-time watches. Since the Martian day, known as a sol, is 24 hours, 39 minutes and 35 seconds, the solution was to slow a conventional watch to match Martian time. Steve Maddox of North Little Rock converted a second world war, military-issue Hamilton 4992B pocket watch for MER team member Jeff Moersch, reducing its frequency from the standard 18,000 beats per hour (bph) to about 17,525 bph. And Los Ang...

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Zenith Introduces the Defy 21 Ultraviolet SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 2, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Defy 21 Ultraviolet

While Zenith occasionally looks into its famed attic for inspiration, the brand regularly shows off its innovation and forward-thinking sensibilities. Case in point – the new Defy 21 Ultraviolet. The watch is dressed entirely in violet, a colour with one of the highest frequencies in the visible spectrum, making the livery a conceptual complement to the 1/100th-of-a-second El Primero 9004 inside the watch. Initial thoughts It never really struck me how uncommon the colour is in watchmaking until I saw the new Defy 21 (though the influencer and collector Amr Sindi has collaborated with several brands to create watches in the colour, and may have had a hand in conceiving the Defy 21 Ultraviolet). A bold choice of choice, violet is used for the dial and strap, but also throughout the movement, making for a fun and casual watch, especially on the rubber strap covered in violet fabric. Though the violet elements might seem loud at first glance, the colour isn’t actually too much. It’s a dark purple that’s more Imperial Rome than Joker from Batman. And it is essentially a two-colour watch in violet and dark grey; the use of a micro-blasted titanium case, helps to diminish the visual prominence of watch. Colour aside, the Defy 21 is a strong value proposition – though it’s the best value in its simplest guise – offering a twin-oscillator, high-frequency chronograph movement for a relatively affordable price. A new face Colour aside, the look is pretty much like the...

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HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB161, an entirely new Presage dial design inspired by a clock from the ’70s Time+Tide
Seiko SPB161 Jun 1, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB161, an entirely new Presage dial design inspired by a clock from the ’70s

The Seiko Presage collection has long been a popular part of the brand’s lineup thanks to the well-tuned value proposition, and the amount of watch you get for your money. The Seiko SPB161 is another fine example. Featuring a crisp enamel dial and powered by the automatic Seiko caliber 6R27, you are once again gaining … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB161, an entirely new Presage dial design inspired by a clock from the ’70s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A deep dive on why the new 2020 Jaeger-LeCoultre collection has excited us so much Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre collection has excited us May 31, 2020

A deep dive on why the new 2020 Jaeger-LeCoultre collection has excited us so much

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 Collection is their best in years Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection has long been a benchmark for subtlety in the execution of style, with each movement, from simple three handers to chronograph calendars, being the definition of art meets mechanics. In 2020’s online edition of the Watches & Wonders fair, the Swiss maestros unveiled … ContinuedThe post A deep dive on why the new 2020 Jaeger-LeCoultre collection has excited us so much appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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You Are There: Visiting The L.A. Mayer Museum For Islamic Art In Jerusalem, Home Of The Breguet No. 160 ‘Marie Antoinette’ Quill & Pad
Breguet No 160 ‘Marie Antoinette’ May 30, 2020

You Are There: Visiting The L.A. Mayer Museum For Islamic Art In Jerusalem, Home Of The Breguet No. 160 ‘Marie Antoinette’

When Bhanu Chropra visited Israel on a business trip in 2019, a colleague suggested a short visit to see the historically important sites in Jerusalem, and knowing his passion for horology said that he had a special surprise for him: visiting the L.A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art. The museum holds one of the world’s most horologically significant pocket watch, clock, and automaton collections, and the star of the show is Breguet No. 160, aka “the Marie Antoinette.”

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How long have YOU got left to live? The ‘death watch’ tells you and starts the countdown. Weirdly, that’s a positive thing… Time+Tide
May 30, 2020

How long have YOU got left to live? The ‘death watch’ tells you and starts the countdown. Weirdly, that’s a positive thing…

Why are vampires invariably such jaded fellows? I reckon immortality has something to do with it. Sure, the wild hunger to feast on human blood must prove an inconvenient business at the best of times. And, yes, coffins make for uncomfortable beds. But I suspect the world-weary demeanour of the undead stems mainly from their … ContinuedThe post How long have YOU got left to live? The ‘death watch’ tells you and starts the countdown. Weirdly, that’s a positive thing… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Zelos Introduces the Mirage Tourbillon in Pattern-Welded Alloys SJX Watches
Zelos May 29, 2020

Zelos Introduces the Mirage Tourbillon in Pattern-Welded Alloys

A Singapore-based “micro brand”, Zelos Watches has found success with affordable sports watches, mostly priced at about US$1,000 or less, but often incorporating unusual materials such as carbon fibre or meteorite. But in a significant departure from its usual fare, Zelos has just unveiled the Mirage, a flying tourbillon powered by a calibre made by a noted Swiss movement maker La Joux-Perret. With the case options including Timascus and mokume-gane, which are pattern-welded titanium and bronze respectively, the Mirage certainly sticks to the brand’s design ethos of exotic materials. Initial thoughts While it’s not surprising that the Mirage is substantially more expensive than Zelos’ past models, it is still good value for a watch featuring both a respectable tourbillon movement and an exotic-metal case. The case is sleek and modern, machined to create sharp, wide facets that give it an aggressive stance and complement the contemporary look of the movement. Of the three case materials on offer, the Timascus versions are the most intriguing. Typically found in high-end custom knives, Timascus is being used in a watch for the first time according to Zelos. Flying tourbillon In terms of complications, the Mirage is a radical departure from the brand’s previous offerings. Powered by a skeletonised flying tourbillon movement from La Joux-Perret, the Mirage enters the realm of technical horology. The movement is hand-wound, with its bridges and base plate coate...

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Gerald Charles Introduces the Maestro Anniversary SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak May 27, 2020

Gerald Charles Introduces the Maestro Anniversary

Gerald Genta is enjoying something of a renaissance now, with the frenzied demand for his most famous designs. And now one of his more obscure designs is making a comeback. One of the most acclaimed and prolific watch designers, Genta’s heyday in the 1970s and 1980s saw him design a host of iconic watches, including the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. After his eponymous brand was acquired by Bulgari in the year 2000, Genta founded another brand named after his first and middle names – Gerald Charles. Though Gerald Charles went dormant after Genta’s death in 2011, the brand has been revived on its 20th anniversary by Genta’s former business partner. The inaugural launch is its first stainless steel watch – the Maestro Anniversary, which is distinctive, eccentric, and very much reflective of Genta’s late-career style. And 30% of the proceeds from each Maestro sold will to donated to the COVID-19 fund set up by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Initial thoughts I like Genta’s designs, and I like the Maestro. It is a unique case that manages to draw a balance between being sporty and elegant – an endearing trait that I find common amongst Genta’s designs. The new Maestro keeps the dial functional and simple, and adds a pattern rubber strap to the mix, giving it a casual yet distinctive look. But at over US$9,600, the price is too steep, especially in light of the Soprod-based movement inside. The hefty, 30% donation to the WHO’s C...

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Tell Us Your Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève-Worthy Contenders: The 2020 GPHG Nominating Academy Members (Well At Least A Few Of Them) Are Listening Quill & Pad
May 26, 2020

Tell Us Your Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève-Worthy Contenders: The 2020 GPHG Nominating Academy Members (Well At Least A Few Of Them) Are Listening

The GPHG Academy will soon be making its submissions for the 2020 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. As Ian Skellern began putting rough lists of watches together, he realized that he was likely only aware of a fraction of watches that are both eligible and noteworthy. And as his favorite niche sectors are likely to be different than yours, many of you will know about watches that he, and perhaps other Academy members, don’t. So please let us know your favorite new watches in the categories here and we'll take them into consideration.

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Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Sports Watch SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding While May 26, 2020

Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Sports Watch

A marque revived via a crowdfunded effort in 2015, Czapek & Cie. has just announced its first sports watch, the Antarctique. The popularity of luxury-sports watches in steel makes that unsurprising, but the Antarctique is powered by a newly-developed, automatic movement with an interesting construction. Initial thoughts Doubtlessly conceived to cater to the current fad for luxury-sports watches in steel, the Antarctique is unsurprising in terms of design. While the overall look is reminiscent of a variety of watches, most notably the earlier-generation Girard-Perregaux Laureato, it manages to be different enough, in particularly with the C-shaped links. But more important and interesting is the movement inside, the SXH5. It was conceived by a team that includes prominent constructors like Emmanuel Bouchet, an independent watchmaker who is probably best known for the Harry Winston Opus 12, as well as Daniel Martinez, an independent constructor who worked at Sellita, MCT, and Greubel Forsey in the past. The SXH5 A large movement with high-quality features, the SXH5 has an interesting aesthetic that’s slightly inspired by vintage pocket watch movements but is clearly modern. And going by the photos, it also appears to be well finished. But the Antarctique is expensive – its price tag of US$18,900 is almost exactly the same as that of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding. While the Antarctique probably has a more compelling and unusual movement, the Czapek brand ...

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A mid-60s Submariner with a sea story, a bargain Speedy, and a lit Reverso at the first virtual Smith & Singer auction Time+Tide
Singer May 26, 2020

A mid-60s Submariner with a sea story, a bargain Speedy, and a lit Reverso at the first virtual Smith & Singer auction

Smith & Singer (formerly Sotheby’s Australia) are hosting their first watch and jewellery auction of the year this week, featuring a smattering of interesting watches, with a few standout pieces. While the current circumstances mean a crowded room focused on a rostrum is impossible, the auction will be held virtually, with bidding allowed via telephone … ContinuedThe post A mid-60s Submariner with a sea story, a bargain Speedy, and a lit Reverso at the first virtual Smith & Singer auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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