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Oris Adds Some Bling to the Aquis: Hands-On with the New Aquis Date Diamonds Worn & Wound
Oris Adds Some Bling Apr 11, 2023

Oris Adds Some Bling to the Aquis: Hands-On with the New Aquis Date Diamonds

At this point, I think we all have a fairly solid understanding of the appeal of a gold watch. The heft, the rarity, and the luster of gold all appeal to our reptile brains in ways that are almost innate. Zach Weiss broke it down here back in 2021, and in the nearly two years since that article was conceived, we’ve only grown more gold-curious as a team. But as much as we talk about a growing appreciation for gold, there’s another tangentially related segment of watchmaking that doesn’t get nearly the same level of attention, at least from enthusiasts. But a new watch from Oris made me rethink my relationship to these watches.  No, I’m not talking about watches with Muppet-clad date displays. I’m talking about diamonds, an entirely different level of opulence. In a modern context, watches that have been set with diamonds most frequently fall into one of two categories: watches marketed exclusively toward women, or the completely iced out custom jobs that you sometimes see on red carpets, music videos, and in New York City’s diamond district. With the new Aquis Date Diamonds, Oris is asking us to rethink the stone by incorporating them into a watch that’s truly sporty, and also by making them accessible.  Oris goes about this by using lab-grown, as opposed to mined, diamonds. Lab-grown diamonds have increased in popularity in recent years as manufacturing techniques have gotten better and better, delivering stones that are identical optically and chemically ...

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Why watch puns tick me off Time+Tide
Apr 8, 2023

Why watch puns tick me off

In the world of horological journalism, where centuries-old companies lord over a multi-billion dollar industry and push the boundaries of mechanical engineering and art simultaneously, it’s pretty much considered a crime to write a pun into your articles. If you ask me, it’s a total waste of time. Most writers would never stoop that low, … ContinuedThe post Why watch puns tick me off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Flight club: Fly first class with these 5 upscale pilot’s chronographs Time+Tide
Casio n Apr 8, 2023

Flight club: Fly first class with these 5 upscale pilot’s chronographs

During the golden age of air travel, all seats on a plane were pretty much first-class seats. At the dawn of intercontinental flight, travellers dressed for the occasion, and the experience was much more genteel, even elegant, especially when compared with today’s post-apocalyptic hellscape. Sadly, modern flying has become a soul-crushing exercise, with stressed-out travellers … ContinuedThe post Flight club: Fly first class with these 5 upscale pilot’s chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IN-DEPTH: The history of Bovet, a contemporary brand with impeccable old-world credentials Time+Tide
Bovet Apr 8, 2023

IN-DEPTH: The history of Bovet, a contemporary brand with impeccable old-world credentials

Despite the age of the watchmaking trade, there aren’t too many brands that can boast 200 years of history. Those that do often have insular development, still operating from within their small town beginnings and sometimes run by the original family. The story of Bovet is much more diverse, including a multitude of characters and … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The history of Bovet, a contemporary brand with impeccable old-world credentials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watches and Wonders Affordable GMT Alternatives From The Shop Worn & Wound
Apr 1, 2023

Watches and Wonders Affordable GMT Alternatives From The Shop

A week has nearly come and gone at Watches and Wonders. In the span of a few days, dozens of brands have released hundreds of new watches. So much has come out that at times it can feel overwhelming (unless you’re following the Worn and Wound team, where they’ve been on top of all the latest news and releases). A week has nearly come and gone at Watches and Wonders. In the span of a few days, dozens of brands have released hundreds of new watches. So much has come out that at times it can feel overwhelming (unless you’re following the Worn and Wound team, where they’ve been on top of all the latest news and releases). The post Watches and Wonders Affordable GMT Alternatives From The Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class Time+Tide
Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class Apr 1, 2023

The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class

The teasers pretty much confirmed it – Rolex is finally paying attention to the Cellini! Well, as it proves year in, year out, the rumours are only sort of true. Rather than a revised Cellini, Rolex is presenting an entirely new model – the Perpetual 1908, marking the beginnings of a new collection. If you … ContinuedThe post The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Windup Watch Fair Heads Back West to San Francisco! Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Fortis Oris Mar 29, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair Heads Back West to San Francisco!

Last year, after a brief hiatus, the Windup Watch Fair returned to San Francisco to a new venue with more brands than ever before. The venue and show were a big hit, so the team here at Worn & Wound has decided to double down on San Francisco this year with twice as much space and twice as many brands. Held at Terra Gallery (511 Harrison Street), the same venue as last year, the Windup Watch Fair will play host to a huge assortment of 60+ brands. Among these participating brands will be our Lead Sponsors, namely: Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac. Each of these will be sharing new and exciting watches for the very first time in the metal at Windup San Francisco. Please join us on Friday, April 28th through Sunday, April 30th. You won’t want to miss it! In addition to our amazing Lead Sponsors, we’ll have a combination of the popular brands you already know and love, as well as a slew of new brands and first-time participants. Here’s a full roster of participating brands. For the first time ever-along with panels, giveaways, happy hours, and food trucks-there will be an entire section of the Fair dedicated to accessory and everyday carry items. We’re calling this section ‘EDC Alley’ and it will feature some of our favorite pocket knife, pen, and boot brands, among so much more. Once you need a break from all the watch and EDC goodness, grab a drink and take a break in the Complecto Lounge. We’re honored to support the Complecto community...

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Zenith’s Defy Revival Shadow is a New Look for a Classic Worn & Wound
Zenith s Defy Revival Shadow Mar 28, 2023

Zenith’s Defy Revival Shadow is a New Look for a Classic

One of the things we love about Zenith is the way they walk the line between unapologetically contemporary (think: the Defy Extreme range) and watches that pay sincere tribute to their past. The latter would encompass much of the Chronomaster collection, for example, which is rife with watches that amount to tasteful updates of much loved vintage pieces. There are times, though, when tributes to heritage and a modern aesthetic collide, and that’s what we have with the new Defy Revival Shadow, a watch that combines the iconic profile of the very first Defy with a blasted titanium treatment that gives it a completely new and modern appearance.  If you’ve been keeping up with Zenith, you’re certainly aware that the Defy Revival has played a major role in their release strategy over the past year, starting with a faithful reissue of the original version last year and then moving on to red and teal. No matter the dial color, though, the dominant design trait of these watches is always the unusual case. There’s really nothing else quite like it. It’s completely compact at just 37mm and has an elaborate 14 sided bezel and 8 sided case that gives the entire package a complex geometry that must have felt quite avant garde when the design was introduced in the 1970s. For this release, Zenith has stripped the case of its signature finishing and given it the same bead blasted titanium treatment as the Chronomaster Revival Shadow. As a sibling to the earlier shadow, this wat...

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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds benefits from a tiny upgrade with an oversized impact Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Mar 28, 2023

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds benefits from a tiny upgrade with an oversized impact

There was always much to admire about the 2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds. The Reverso’s standard Art-Deco charm was all present and correct with that winning mix of classicism and sharp formality. There were the fun colours (blue! burgundy! green!) that loosened the proposition up a touch and gave it a contemporary edge. There … ContinuedThe post The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds benefits from a tiny upgrade with an oversized impact appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The long-awaited Rolex Yacht-Master in RLX Titanium Time+Tide
Rolex Yacht-Master Mar 27, 2023

The long-awaited Rolex Yacht-Master in RLX Titanium

After much anticipation, Rolex releases the first production Yacht-Master in RLX titanium The 42mm case is totally brushed, save for some wide, polished lug chamfers Powered by the 3235 calibre, the Yacht-Master RLX Titanium has a power reserve of 70 hours First spotted on the wrist of Sir Ben Ainslie, Rolex has finally released the … ContinuedThe post The long-awaited Rolex Yacht-Master in RLX Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IWC Introduces the Ingenieur Automatic 40 SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Mar 27, 2023

IWC Introduces the Ingenieur Automatic 40

After years in the doldrums – and several unsuccessful reboots – the Ingenieur has been given a much-needed refresh inside and out. The IWC Ingenieur 40 emulates many of the best characteristics of the original Ingenieur SL from 1976 that was famously designed by Gérald Genta, but adds a proprietary automatic movement into the mix. Initial Thoughts While there was nothing wrong with the outgoing Ingenieur ref. IW3570, it was uninspired and lacked the charisma found in the original 1976 designs. Unsurprisingly, it failed to resonate with buyers who increasingly favoured sports watches with integrated bracelets. The ref. IW328903 features an aqua dial and a bracelet with polished center links The resulting surge in demand for integrated-bracelet sports watches was a trend that IWC missed out on since the last Ingenieur with an integrated bracelet was the ref. IW3239 discontinued in 2017. With everyone else launching an integrated-bracelet sports watch, it seemed inevitable that IWC would eventually refresh the Ingenieur and bring back the original design. In this context, the launch of the Ingenieur 40 is welcome, even if it does feel slightly anti-climactic.  The Ingenieur ref. IW328902 in steel with a silver-plated dial The new Ingenieur is essentially a blend of the 1976 original and the more recent integrated-bracelet models. The design appears thoughtful. For example, the bezel with five notches from the original returns, but with a twist (no pun intended). Whi...

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Send Us Your Recommendations And Suggestions Of Watches To Nominate For The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Quill & Pad
Mar 25, 2023

Send Us Your Recommendations And Suggestions Of Watches To Nominate For The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)

As GPHG Academy members, GaryG, Joshua Munchow, and Ian Skellern have been asked to nominate watches for consideration in the 2023 GPHG. And while they spend much of our lives immersed in the world of watches, they don’t know of everything out there and there may well be, and are likely to be, gems that they are not aware of. So please send us your suggestions and recommendations for watches in the 15 categories listed.

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Vivified Air: Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Collection with New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Mar 21, 2023

Vivified Air: Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Collection with New Dial Colors

Human flight has long been an inspiration and a momentous force within Fortis’ history. Dating back to as early as 1929, Lady Grace Drummond-Hay completed the world’s first circumnavigation in a Zeppelin LZ127 – on her wrist, a Fortis Harwood. In 1995, Fortis was also a part of a record-breaking flight that took aeronautical photographer, Alexandre Paringaux, to an altitude of 30,045m, reaching speeds as high as Mach 3.13 in a Mig-25 PU. Around that time, Fortis had also released their first-ever Flieger, aptly named the Sky-watch. Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Petrol Inspired by the functional designs of the B-Uhr harkening back to WWII, the Sky-watch had all the tell-tale features of a traditionally designed pilot’s watch – can’t miss Arabic hour numerals, triangular 12 o’clock marker, and sword hands. Up until today, particularly the use of a black dial, splash of orange accents, and sickly green markers and hands, that design has largely remained unchanged. Recently, Fortis has injected some color into their entire Flieger collection with an array of different dial colors giving their pilot’s watch a new-found contemporary energy. Fortis Flieger F-39 Petrol First up in the Fortis fleet, we have the Flieger F-39 and F-41 sporting three new dial colors: Black, Petrol, and Liberty Blue. The difference that immediately stands are the markers and hands that no longer have the faded luminova shade. Instead, they’ve been whited out, but still remain legible a...

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VERSUS: The Seiko Prospex Turtle takes on the Citizen Promaster Dive for entry-level underwater supremacy Time+Tide
Citizen Promaster Dive Mar 19, 2023

VERSUS: The Seiko Prospex Turtle takes on the Citizen Promaster Dive for entry-level underwater supremacy

It’s another knock-down, drag-out street fight here on Versus, and this match-up pits two classic divers, the current version of the venerable Seiko Turtle against the bomb-proof Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Dive. Once again, we match up two comparable watches in similar styles and price points, and compare their shared qualities, and the ones that set … ContinuedThe post VERSUS: The Seiko Prospex Turtle takes on the Citizen Promaster Dive for entry-level underwater supremacy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Green On Green: 4 Verdant Watch Dials From Glashütte Original, Armin Strom, Omega, And Christiaan van der Klaauw – Reprise Quill & Pad
Christiaan van der Klaauw Reprise While Mar 18, 2023

Green On Green: 4 Verdant Watch Dials From Glashütte Original, Armin Strom, Omega, And Christiaan van der Klaauw – Reprise

While the increasing popularity of green dials contributes to a more colorful universe of watches, Martin Green sometimes finds the use of this color a bit much these days. That said, the following recently introduced watches are home runs for Martin because their green dials are just right!

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The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned Mar 18, 2023

The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

A historically important Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 with full calendar and moon phase will soon be offered at Phillips, but the news isn’t so much about the watch itself but the story behind it. While extraordinarily rare in itself, the ref. 96 quantieme lune is exceptional for its provenance: its original owner was Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of China and heir to a 4,000-year old imperial throne. As the final ruler of the Qing Dynasty, Puyi was arguably a hapless individual overcome by circumstances and overtaken by history – a life dramatised in the Bernardo Bertolucci’s film The Last Emperor – leaving him with a mixed reputation and legacy. The ref. 96, however, makes clear his appreciation of mechanical timepieces. Yet this long-lost imperial watch is extremely flawed on its face. But the heavily-aged dial, seemingly severely damaged, also echoes the tale of Puyi’s brief reign, a turbulent time when an empire met its end and a feudal dynasty was transformed into a modern nation. Image – PaddleWaves An Emperor’s timekeeper Ascending the throne at age two in 1908, Puyi was destined for a life of absolute power. But shortly after, the child Emperor witnessed the collapse of Imperial China and his family’s four century-old dynasty in the wake of the Xinhai Revolution of 1911 that gave birth to the Republic of China. In 1932, perhaps unwitting or naive, he became the titular ruler of Manchukuo, the puppet state of Manchuria that was controlle...

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INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series delivers exquisite dials in porcelain, enamel and lacquer Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series delivers Mar 11, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series delivers exquisite dials in porcelain, enamel and lacquer

Seiko are celebrating their 110th anniversary of making wristwatches. The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series pays tribute to traditional Japanese techniques. The four dials cover enamel, porcelain and lacquer. Most people would know that Seiko is a Japanese brand, however, their ties to their country of origin run much deeper than the majority of watch brands. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series delivers exquisite dials in porcelain, enamel and lacquer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Introduces New Caliber Within Prospex GMT Diver Collection Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces New Caliber Within Mar 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces New Caliber Within Prospex GMT Diver Collection

Seiko ventures into new (and much requested) territory this week with the release of a new collection of GMT divers within their Prospex family. Using their modern 6159 design language seen in watches like the SPB187 with MM200 roots, the new watches strike a fine balance between their roots, and a strong contemporary vision for the range. Seiko has proven quite adept at this in recent years with their restructuring of their dive watch collections, but these latest examples bring something new to the table: a GMT complication within a new 3 day automatic movement, the 6R54.  The new Prospex GMT diver range welcomes two new references in the SPB381 and 383, and in true Seiko fashion, a single limited edition in the SPB385. Each welcomes the new 6R35 within a steel 42mm case that measures 12.8mm in thickness, and should wear quite similarly to this SPB187 we went hands-on with right here. The angular case gets the distinctive deep chamfer along the lug which has a relatively short overhang to make for a perfectly manageable experience on the wrist. These watches mark the first time a mechanical GMT movement has made its way into the Prospex dive watch, as the GMT diver is something of a niche genre, and may, to some extent, excuse the fact that this is a caller style GMT execution. The GMT hand can be set independently in one-hour increments, making it a better option for those who work with or communicate with other time zones more than for those who travel between them fr...

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You are not a flipper: Three perfectly good reasons for selling a watch right after buying it Time+Tide
Mar 5, 2023

You are not a flipper: Three perfectly good reasons for selling a watch right after buying it

Though I love the watch community as a whole, there are times where I couldn’t disagree more with the direction of its ire. One such moment happened earlier this year with the release of the MoonSwatch. The overall positive vibes were cut like a knife by a wave of negativity. Much of which had to … ContinuedThe post You are not a flipper: Three perfectly good reasons for selling a watch right after buying it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Jacob & Co. Introduces a Roulette Automaton Watch SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Mar 1, 2023

Jacob & Co. Introduces a Roulette Automaton Watch

Jacob & Co. already has a roulette complication in its catalogue inside the Astronomia Casino, a variant of its signature watch. Now the jeweller has condensed the concept into the Casino Tourbillon, which does away with the orbital carousel to focus on the roulette automaton, although it still conceals a flying tourbillon on the back. Initial thoughts The Casino Tourbillon is very much a Jacob & Co. watch with its exuberant style and complication – but it is slightly more restrained in design than the brand’s usual offerings. While it’s far from a low-key watch with its 44 mm diameter and over-16mm height, it is modest for a Jacob & Co. watch. The roulette complication is interesting and smartly executed, though not exactly new. It is essentially a more sophisticated version of the Franck Muller Las Vegas, which instead relied on a simple execution made up of a fixed wheelhead and freely-spinning pointer hand. Priced at US$280,000, the  Casino Tourbillon is pricey. Although the dial construction is complex, the roulette automaton is relatively straightforward, as is the flying tourbillon. It is, however, unique in today’s market. While casino-inspired complications were once popular (after the Franck Muller Las Vegas became a bestseller), they are uncommon today. So for the high roller who wants a novel casino-themed complication, this is probably it. Game of chance While Jacob & Co.’s watches are usually over the top, the Casino Tourbillon is relatively clean...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula AquaSport GMT is a funky diver with ’70s swagger Time+Tide
Feb 27, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula AquaSport GMT is a funky diver with ’70s swagger

Calling Circula a microbrand feels like a bit of a disservice considering their history, but their approach to unique design and modern brand identity really does align with that of a much younger company. First founded in the Black Forest region of Germany in 1955 by Heinz Huber, who had been running a watch and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula AquaSport GMT is a funky diver with ’70s swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Pairing the Tudor Pelagos 39 & the Rolex Submariner 14060M Worn & Wound
Tudor Pelagos 39 & Feb 21, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Pairing the Tudor Pelagos 39 & the Rolex Submariner 14060M

As much as I advocate for expanding your boundaries when it comes to the type of watches you experience, most of our time is spent in the middle of our lane. These are the comfort food of watches, the sweet spot you keep coming back to. For me, these are typically simple divers or tool watches, the archetype of which is of course the Submariner. Not very exciting, but a great everyday companion that’s easy to use and read, with an uncanny ability to pair with pretty much any outfit or look. Plenty of other watches fall into the category as well, but the Submariner sets the bar, and does so particularly well in the form of the reference 14060M. Where more modern references have veered ever so slightly into “it needs to make a statement” territory, there is a humbleness that remains within the 14060, if ever a word could be applied to a Submariner.  The peculiar vibe of the 14060 may be absent within the present catalog of Rolex sports watches, but that doesn’t mean it’s not out there in other more modern watches. In fact, you don’t have to stray far from the family to find such a candidate. Tudor has managed to capture a lot of the charm of early Rolex references in recent years, and one in particular strikes me as a perfect embodiment of what I love about 5 digit Subs, and that is the Pelagos 39. When this watch was introduced I referred to it as the modern Sub we never got, and expanded on that in my full review of the watch. I’ve since welcomed a P39 into ...

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