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Best of 2022: Value Propositions SJX Watches
Longines Master Collection “190th Anniversary” is Dec 25, 2022

Best of 2022: Value Propositions

We’ve gone through the year’s best watches from independent watchmakers and establishment brands, as well as the most notable complications. Nearly all of the watches on those lists, however, are pricey. So now we round up the best affordable watches of the year, namely those under US$5,000. Put another way, these are the best value proposition of 2022, both in nominal and relative terms. As has become the norm, Tudor is shoo-in when it comes to value propositions. A streamlined version of its deep-sea dive watch, the Pelagos 39 is compact, lightweight, and minimalist. The case is 39 mm and all titanium, while the dial does away with the date but includes a line of red text in a nod to vintaged dive watches.  While much about the watch has been simplified, the details of the Pelagos 39 are fancier than usual. Both the dial and bezel insert are radially brushed – a matte metallic finish for the dial and brushed ceramic for the bezel – giving the Pelagos 39 a more reflective finish than its peers. When it comes to dress watches, the Longines Master Collection “190th Anniversary” is amongst the best, particularly at its US$2,000-ish price. It features a dial that appears to be highly elaborate with Breguet hour numerals that appear to be hand engraved. Naturally the dial is made by machine, but it is done convincingly enough that has a strikingly appealing aesthetic. Thanks to the dial, the watch certainly punches above its price segment. And like many Longin...

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver recreates a cruelly overlooked Bond watch Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver recreates Dec 23, 2022

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver recreates a cruelly overlooked Bond watch

Anyone who knows me knows I’m a sucker for all things 007. The action, the intrigue, the charm, the gadgets… and most of all, the watches. The Rolex Submariner, the Breitling Top Time, the Omega Seamaster, the Seiko Golden Tuna, and even the Gruen Precision dress watch from Dr No, they’ve all shaken my martini. … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver recreates a cruelly overlooked Bond watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The HYT Hastroid Cosmic Hunter combines avant-garde tech with materials of old Time+Tide
Montblanc s purchase Dec 19, 2022

The HYT Hastroid Cosmic Hunter combines avant-garde tech with materials of old

The HYT brand is experiencing an encouraging renaissance. It came back with a big bang with the help of Kairos Technology and a certain Davide Cerrato at the helm. For reference, Davide is just the guy who launched the initial Tudor Black Bay in 2012 and oversaw Montblanc’s purchase of Minerva. Good CV, then. The … ContinuedThe post The HYT Hastroid Cosmic Hunter combines avant-garde tech with materials of old appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits Oct 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size

There’s really nothing else like the look of a Panerai, such is its visual singularity. A long-time favourite of Hollywood (and real-life) tough guys, it’s a legend among those whose default wristwear leans hard into “bold statement”. In fact, I’d say it’s nearly as recognisable as a Submariner, if less ubiquitous, and frankly, one of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Sep 28, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue

It’s been six years since Bucherer inaugurated Bucherer Blue, a line of special-edition watches made specifically for the Swiss retailer by watchmakers ranging from Tudor to Audemars Piguet. Dressed in the Bucherer’s corporate colour of dark blue, the Bucherer Blue collection has become one of the retailer’s defining qualities. The latest to join the collection is a sports watch from H. Moser & Cie., the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue, which features a flying tourbillon on a smoked grey dial framed by a ring of blue sapphires. Initial thoughts Visually simple in the typical Moser style but far from plain, the Streamliner Tourbillon is an attractive watch to begin with. It retains the no-frills look of a sports watch yet while managing to dial up the technical features with a double-hairspring flying tourbillon at six o’clock. The Bucherer Blue edition takes the idea of contrasting simplicity and complexity further with a gem-set bezel that certainly adds sparkle without taking away from the clean lines of the Streamliner. At a distance the bezel might evoke the coloured bezel inserts that are common in sports watches, though up close it is undeniably bling. But the gems blend well into the design as the uniform colour of the stones and graduated, geometric pattern they form both suit the Streamliner aesthetic perfectly. And the dial is a restrained, pale grey – naturally in Moser’s trademark smoked finish – that doesn’t compete with the sapphires...

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Sep 22, 2022

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue

As one of the world’s biggest watch retailers, Bucherer has long enjoyed unique relationships with leading watchmakers. Starting in 2016, Bucherer commissioned a series of special editions from a diversity of brands, including the well-known Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue. Girard-Perregaux (GP) is the latest marque to create a special run for the Swiss retailer with the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue. This variant of GP’s trademark complication once again is inspired by the retailer’s corporate colour: instead of a flat black in the standard version of the watch, the titanium bridges of the movement are highlighted in dark blue. Initial thoughts As with most of the Bucherer’s other editions, the new Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges is a change in livery, but one that transforms the feel of the watch. Going from a muted black to a vibrant blue is a simple tweak, but one that adds to the visual appeal by making the architecture of the movement more apparent. The blue treatment makes the bridges stand out and emphasise their graceful, arched form, a quality that is less obvious in the standard version because of its near-monochromatic finish. The standard version with its black bridges All that makes for a contemporary look that’s more striking, a perfect fit for a calibre that’s essentially an ultra-modern take on a concept dating to 1860. At the same time, the modern yet restrained aesthetic is appropriate given Bucherer’s status as ...

Six manufacturers that ditched industry giants for Kenissi movements Time+Tide
Breitling Sep 5, 2022

Six manufacturers that ditched industry giants for Kenissi movements

Initially introduced as the maker of Tudor’s in-house calibres, Kenissi is becoming a manufacturing powerhouse, becoming involved with an ever-growing number of brands. After Tudor’s efforts for Baselworld 2015, Kenissi was created as a producer of movements for Tudor and other brands, now standing as a joint venture of Tudor, Breitling and Chanel. Along with … ContinuedThe post Six manufacturers that ditched industry giants for Kenissi movements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Explorer Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Aug 23, 2022

Rolex Explorer Guide

The Rolex Explorer is in many ways the quintessential dressy tool watch from Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual collection - less flashy than the GMT-Master, less bulky than the Submariner, while still rooted, like those two models, in a history of adventure and discovery. While it has changed very little since the 1950s, today’s Rolex Explorer is the culmination of many decades of aesthetic and technical evolution, guided by a watchmaker for whom the subtlest details make all the difference in the world to its avid legions of fans. Underpinning the Explorer: Oyster Case and Perpetual Caliber The Rolex Explorer, like all Oyster Perpetual timepieces in Rolex’s Professional collection, is an expression of two technical milestones that Rolex and its visionary founder Hans Wisdorf contributed to watchmaking history. The first is the so-called Oyster case, developed in 1926, which revolutionized the construction of watch cases with its dustproof, waterproof, hermetically sealed structure, secured by a threaded caseback and a crown that screwed tightly into the case. In 1931, Rolex made history again with the creation of its first “Perpetual” movement (below), whose self-winding mechanism was driven by an oscillating rotor. The marriage of these two inventions gave rise to the “Oyster Perpetual” line of timepieces that remain at the heart of Rolex’s collection today, beginning with the Datejust in 1945 and coming to full fruition with the tool-oriented, yet still luxuri...

Every Watch Tells A Story: “Did I know a Rolex Hulk sold for $95,000? No, I’m very surprised” Time+Tide
Rolex Hulk sold Jul 20, 2022

Every Watch Tells A Story: “Did I know a Rolex Hulk sold for $95,000? No, I’m very surprised”

Way back in the mists of time or, in fact, just six years ago, you could still randomly walk into a Rolex boutique and pick up a steel sports watch on the spot. That’s what happened to Arman in 2016. He was on holiday from Australia in Las Vegas where he saw this Rolex Submariner 116610LV … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: “Did I know a Rolex Hulk sold for $95,000? No, I’m very surprised” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Norqain Introduces the Kenissi-Powered Neverest GMT SJX Watches
Norqain Introduces Feb 12, 2022

Norqain Introduces the Kenissi-Powered Neverest GMT

A young brand established only in 2018 – but backed by noted industry figures – Norqain is best known for sports watches equipped with high-quality movements produced by Kenissi, the manufacture owned by Tudor and Chanel. At the higher end of the brand’s offerings is a dual-time watch with a ceramic bezel insert and patterned dial that was introduced just last year in steel. Now it gets a luxe facelift, resulting in the Adventure Neverest GMT 41mm Steel & Gold. Available either with rubber strap or steel bracelet Initial thoughts The all-steel Neverest GMT a straightforward, agreeable proposition: practical functions backed by a solid movement, while boasting a fairly elaborate case and dial. Yet such features aren’t enough in today’s market since extras like a ceramic bezel are almost the norm. Despite its strong execution in terms of fit and finish, the original Neverest GMT lacked a punchy aesthetic, with its styling seeming a bit derivative. That’s changed with the two-tone model. The addition of a modest quantity of pink gold gives the watch a more upscale feel, especially complemented by the glossy ceramic bezel, resulting in a look more comparable with its competition in the same price range. Two-tone here means the addition of gold details, rather than an excessive use of the precious metal The gold details, however, mean the watch is about 40% pricier than its steel counterpart. At US$5,290 on a strap and more on a bracelet, the two-tone Neverest GMT ...

HYT Returns with the Hastroid SJX Watches
Montblanc Mr Cerrato has applied Feb 1, 2022

HYT Returns with the Hastroid

Having been the first – and still the only – watchmaker to use liquid to display the time, HYT went bust last year, having struggled for several years after its 2012 debut. But now the brand is making a comeback with Davide Cerrato at the helm. The inaugural watch of the reborn HYT is the Hastroid Green Nebula that is dressed in brand’s familiar livery of lime green and black. Best known for being the design chief at first Tudor and then Montblanc, Mr Cerrato has applied his brand of Italian aesthetics to HYT, preserving its signature style while streamlining and downsizing the watches. Still large, but slightly thinner and definitely sleeker, the Hastroid continues the familiar formula found on most previous HYT watches – hours are indicated by a retrograde fluid indicator within a glass tube, while two large bellows are responsible for pumping the fluid indicator back and forth. Initial thoughts I was sceptical when I first heard that HYT was back from the dead, but knowing that Mr Cerrato is leading the charge certainly increases the odds of success. He did a stellar job shaping the visual identities of both Tudor and Montblanc – both of which still have the same house style today – and has certainly refined the HYT wristwatch while retaining its familiar feel. The Having seen a resin mockup of the Hastroid, I can attest to the fact that the watch is more compact and slightly more wearable than a first-generation HYT. At the same time, Mr Cerrato has given...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Phantasos Triclops is that rarest of things – a truly original watch Time+Tide
Jan 17, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Phantasos Triclops is that rarest of things – a truly original watch

EDITOR’S NOTE:  We have been advised by readers that this watch has allegedly not been sent to consumers despite repeated promises.  We have contracted the brand ourselves and not received a response. We suggest readers be very wary about proceeding to buy these watches. Let me guess, you see a Submariner and you yawn. Time and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Phantasos Triclops is that rarest of things – a truly original watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Digital and luxury come together” – George Bamford reviews the new Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon Light Up Digital Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon Light Up Jan 14, 2022

“Digital and luxury come together” – George Bamford reviews the new Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon Light Up Digital

Editor’s note: You’re almost certainly familiar with George Bamford, but just in case you’ve been lagging behind here’s a quick background primer. George got involved in watches in the mid-noughties after customising his Rolex Submariner by taking it apart and treating it using a DLC process. The first time he wore it out he got 25 orders. … ContinuedThe post “Digital and luxury come together” – George Bamford reviews the new Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon Light Up Digital appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zach’s five favourite watches of 2021 Time+Tide
Hublot ContinuedThe post Zach’s Dec 30, 2021

Zach’s five favourite watches of 2021

This past year has created a lot of firsts for me, both in life and in this industry. These included my first time visiting Geneva and Dubai. My first manufacture visit, spending time with the wonderful team at Rolex/Tudor. My first red-carpet event in Hollywood and, most recently, my first time skiing courtesy of Hublot … ContinuedThe post Zach’s five favourite watches of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega raises pricing for Seamaster 300M divers Time+Tide
Omega raises pricing Dec 3, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega raises pricing for Seamaster 300M divers

This week, many members of the watch community noted that, once again, Omega has incrementally raised the pricing on one of their bestselling models, the Omega Seamaster 300M. While some wondered if this was a move to capitalise on the lack of availability of competing divers like the Rolex Submariner, the truth is likely far … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega raises pricing for Seamaster 300M divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Bathyscaphe Titanium is a sexy beast of a dive watch Time+Tide
Blancpain Bathyscaphe Titanium Nov 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Bathyscaphe Titanium is a sexy beast of a dive watch

Fifty Fathoms.  It’s a reference to an antiquated British unit of measure of approximately 91 and a half metres, but in the realm of horology, it’s synonymous with one of the first (along with Rolex’s Submariner) purpose-built dive watches, and its history is long and storied. First introduced in 1953, the original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Bathyscaphe Titanium is a sexy beast of a dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Horizon Watches Debuts with the Horizon Diver SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms Oct 12, 2021

Horizon Watches Debuts with the Horizon Diver

The latest crowdfunded maker of affordable dive watches, Horizon Watches was founded by a veteran of the micro-brand scene, Fred Bekher, a designer who has penned dozens of watches for horological startups. Mr Bekher’s first design for his own brand is the Nautilus, a dive watch with an Art Deco-meets-steampunk aesthetic. Though the model name sounds like something else, it takes inspiration from literature, specifically the submariner commanded by Caption Nemo from Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea.  “While I was reading [the novel] as a child, I would imagine how the Nautilus looked like”, Mr Bekher says of his love for sci-fi and the steampunk world of Verne’s works. Initial thoughts The model name aside, the Nautilus is an original design – it manages not to look like anything else – which is an achievement in the space of affordable dive watches. It’s also thought in form, something that’s evident in the dial and case construction, notable for a watch that starts at US$350. And the design is appealing, most notably the Art Deco font and the smartly-disguised date. And smart it is: the date window is sized identically to the hour markers, while the date disc is entirely “lumed”, so it glows just like an hour marker. That said, some details do inevitably call to mind other, more famous dive watches, namely the Breguet Marine in terms of the dial and the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms for the bezel, but as a whole the Nautilus passes ...

Highlights: Vintage Patek Philippe – and One Special Day-Date – at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 9, 2021

Highlights: Vintage Patek Philippe – and One Special Day-Date – at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

With Sotheby’s Hong Kong sale just around the corner, we’re rounding up a half-dozen notable vintage watches from the auction, primarily big-ticket Patek Philippe complications. Amongst them a few oddities, one a Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Senza Luna”, a perpetual calendar with the moon phase omitted, and the other the Rolex Day-Date with a  “Submariner” dial. With the preview exhibition open daily from now till October 12, the auction will take place on October 13. The catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2265: Patek Philippe ref. 130 The oldest watch of the selection is a Patek Philippe ref. 130, the brand’s first serially-produced wristwatch chronograph that remained in the catalogue for over three decades. The model’s longevity makes it an inevitability that a good number of ref. 130 variants exist. Indeed, the model varies greatly in terms case material and dial design, with some combinations being rarer than others. One such rare combination is a steel case with “sector” dial, like the present example. Made by Wenger, the steel cases of the ref. 130 have shorter and wider-spaced lugs compared to the gold cases that made by Vichet, giving the 33 mm case a more imposing appearance Chronograph wristwatches from that era typically feature tiny counters that sit close to the edge of the dial, leaving the dial clean and distinctly vintage. But the “sector” dial here is an entirely different animal – the sect...

HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961 Time+Tide
Blancpain who each began production Sep 17, 2021

HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961

Let’s take a quick dip into diving watch history. The brands who really birthed the category as we know it today are Rolex/Tudor and Blancpain – who each began production of their dive watches in 1953 (it should also be noted that Zodiac introduced their Sea Wolf diver in 1953 as well). Brands such as … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Until we get more Oysterflex, these are our preferred Rolex rubber strap options on the market Time+Tide
Rolex rubber strap options Jul 27, 2021

Until we get more Oysterflex, these are our preferred Rolex rubber strap options on the market

Like Romeo and Juliet, the Rolex Submariner and the Oysterflex bracelet were meant to be together. The iconic diver’s watch and (probably) the world’s best rubber strap are the beautiful couple never allowed to marry due to draconian family rules. So what are the DIY alternatives to speed up this matrimony? After all, despite what … ContinuedThe post Until we get more Oysterflex, these are our preferred Rolex rubber strap options on the market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Adrien Brody proves sporty and elegant are not mutually exclusive with an IWC Portugieser Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Jul 2, 2021

Adrien Brody proves sporty and elegant are not mutually exclusive with an IWC Portugieser

One debate that continues to rage within the watch community is whether or not sports models are considered kosher with formalwear. On the one hand, the suave spy James Bond popularised the dynamic, wearing watches like the Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster with a tuxedo. But the question remains whether or not the combination truly … ContinuedThe post Adrien Brody proves sporty and elegant are not mutually exclusive with an IWC Portugieser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.