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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Jewelled Ref. 5271 with Sapphires or Rubies SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Nov 17, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Jewelled Ref. 5271 with Sapphires or Rubies

Patek Philippe has introduced two variants of its classic paired complication: the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5271/11P and Ref. 5271/12P are set with blue sapphires and rubies respectively, with each having a graduated finish dial in a matching colour. Both new references retain the look and feel of the ref. 5270 but certainly pack a punch with their flamboyant jewelled cases. The first serially-produced gem-set variants of the reference in 11 years, the new pair joins the existing diamond-set ref. 5271P as the bling versions of Patek Philippe’s archetypal complication. Initial thoughts Much of the excitement over new releases from Patek Philippe tend to be centred on its sports watches nowadays but that’s not all that the brand has been doing. At Watches & Wonders in March, the brand launched a new version of the longstanding ref. 5270 that featured a smoked green dial that was widely applauded (no doubt in part due to the current popularity of the colour). But the recent launches left me wondering, what else can Patek Philippe do to up its game beyond its mastery of complications? Well, now we have an answer. In terms of the design, the new ref. 5271s retain the classic layout and distinctive feel of the perpetual calendar chronographs that the brand is known for, but with a few adjustments to the dial that give it a more contemporary feel. And then the coloured gemstones transform a watch that is ordinarily sedate into something over the top. While gem-se...

£80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow Time+Tide
Omega spends 20 years Nov 16, 2022

£80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow

As watch collectors we all wish to one day stumble on a “barnyard” find. An old watch that’s dug up and sold at an estate sale by an owner who has no idea what it is actually worth. We hear the stories, and they always seem too good to be true. But they definitely happen and, … ContinuedThe post £80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Double-sided Chronograph Revolution
Franck Muller Nov 16, 2022

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Double-sided Chronograph

Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This double-sided chronograph is powered by the historically significant, Valjoux-based Caliber 7000, one of Franck’s most highly lauded creations. It features a second […]

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Tri-compax Chronograph Revolution
Franck Muller Nov 16, 2022

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Tri-compax Chronograph

Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This black dial, three-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Bi-compax Chronograph Revolution
Franck Muller Nov 16, 2022

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Bi-compax Chronograph

Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This silver dial, two-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]

Sarpaneva Introduces the Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Nov 16, 2022

Sarpaneva Introduces the Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi”

Inspired by the northern lights, the Sarpaneva x Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” continues the Finnish’s brands tradition of artfully applied Super-Luminova. This 17-piece limited edition Stepan Sarpaneva’s third model dedicated to Valteri Bottas, a fellow Finn who competes for the Alfa Romeo Formula 1 team. Unlike the first pair of Bottas editions that made by Mr Sarpaneva’s more affordable S.U.F. brand, the Kilpisjärvi is a full-fledged Sarpaneva watch so it has an elaborately open-worked dial, unusually shaped case, and in a first for the brand, the Chronode P1003 automatic movement inside. Initial thoughts Born into a family of designers and artists, Stepan Sarpenava unsurprisingly has a strikingly distinct aesthetic. This comes through in all of his work, despite the diversity of his offerings. With its open-worked dial and multi-coloured lume, the Kilpisjärvi might seem similar to his recent releases, but it is notably different. In contrast to the earlier editions that were heavily figurative, the Kilpisjärvi is abstract, especially during the day. In fact, the dial pattern is almost graceful, though the aggressive Sarpaneva styling is still obvious in the hands and case. Only at night when the Super-Luminova glows is the northern lights motif easily apparent. For anyone who enjoys Mr Sarpaneva’s unusual aesthetic, the Kilpisjärvi is easily appealing – with two caveats. One is the size, which at 46 mm is large and places it amongst the biggest Sarp...

7 Watch Strap Types and the Pros and Cons of Each Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 15, 2022

7 Watch Strap Types and the Pros and Cons of Each

Among the many decisions facing a prospective watch buyer before pulling the trigger on a new timepiece is choosing which type of strap or bracelet it should have. Watch straps vary widely in their materials, construction, finishing, and even in their original intended usage, with some straps projecting a sense of genteel refinement and others possessing military ruggedness or everyday sportiness. Here is a look at five watch strap types, their origins, and their attributes. Dress Leather Strap The practice of attaching watches to leather straps goes all the way back to the Boer Wars of the late 19th Century, which were fought in South Africa. British soldiers began wearing their pocket watches on crude leather attachments rather than in their jacket pockets because they often needed to doff their jackets and waistcoats in the extreme African heat. By the early 1900s, pioneers like London saddlemaker Alfred Pearson and Swiss watch importers the Dimier brothers were converting pocket watches into wristwatches by soldering wire lugs onto the cases and slipping such leather wristlets through them to secure them to wrists. The style became widespread after World War I, during which military men wore these wristwatches on the battlefield, and entered the realm of high fashion in subsequent years. Leather straps are usually made from calfskin, alligator, or crocodile leather (the latter two generally being associated with a higher level of luxury), but other, more exotic types...

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 Nov 15, 2022

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful

I recently tackled the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph IW371620, a solid summer watch that brings the youthful summer vibes to a classic and storied collection and manufacture. But a chronograph is not always everyone’s flavour. Unless you are dead-set on using a mechanical and analogue timekeeper for timing cars on the racetrack, or more realistically … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Yema Wristmaster Traveller Micro-Rotor is a charming take on the integrated bracelet sports watch Time+Tide
Yema Nov 15, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Yema Wristmaster Traveller Micro-Rotor is a charming take on the integrated bracelet sports watch

One of the things that sets Yema apart from their competitors, whether you ever considered them a microbrand or not, was that they had their own affordable in-house movement. The YEMA2000 was definitely an improvement upon the off-the-shelf calibers from ETA or Sellita that we would expect to see, however its use was more of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Yema Wristmaster Traveller Micro-Rotor is a charming take on the integrated bracelet sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Carbotech and Blu Abisso deliver brooding looks and high-tech attitude Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible Carbotech Nov 13, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Carbotech and Blu Abisso deliver brooding looks and high-tech attitude

Love them or hate them, the journey of Panerai has been an incredible evolution. Since the practical yet eccentric cushion-cased dive watches of the 1930s they helped supply to the Italian Navy, the Panerai name has been brandished by the likes of Arnold Schwarzenegger, Sylvester Stallone, Dwayne Johnson and Jason Statham doubling down on the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Carbotech and Blu Abisso deliver brooding looks and high-tech attitude appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 12, 2022

Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022

A much-anticipated series of auctions just concluded in Geneva, the first sale season to take place after financial markets started to crack in mid 2022. All the major auction houses – Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s – staged sales in the Swiss city, and almost everyone who was anyone turned up (or took part by phone or online). The season’s top performer by the numbers was Christie’s, which sold CHF55.5 million of watches, fees included, largely thanks to the collection of former Ferrari Formula 1 chief Jean Todt. It displaced the traditional number one, Phillips, which sold CHF45.0 million. The Phillips auction at La Reserve. Image – Phillips A few takeaways are immediately apparent in the results. One was widely expected: “hype” watches have come off their highs, often by a third or more. Including obvious candidates like sports watches, namely the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Overseas, but also brands that enjoyed massive run-ups in value during the pandemic like F.P. Journe. Values are still up from the pre-pandemic lows, but if prices overcorrected on the way up, then it is likely they will do so on the way down. Sotheby’s, for instance, had several dozen examples of various Nautilus and Royal Oak models in its sale, mostly with estimates close to peak values from late 2021. As a result, a third of the watches went unsold. The dip in values was also evident with F.P. Journe, certainly not a “hype” brand but one that enjoy a stellar run during ...

Chris Evans unveiled as People Magazine’s Sexiest Man Alive while wearing this watch… Time+Tide
Nov 11, 2022

Chris Evans unveiled as People Magazine’s Sexiest Man Alive while wearing this watch…

Chris Evans has long been beloved by audiences worldwide. From the early years of his career in Not Another Teen Movie, to the role of Captain America that launched him into superstardom, the versatile actor has played many characters over the years. But, the one irrefutable through-line is that no matter the role – even … ContinuedThe post Chris Evans unveiled as People Magazine’s Sexiest Man Alive while wearing this watch… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A week of awards with Hamilton’s BTCA and the GPHGs Time+Tide
Hamilton s BTCA Nov 11, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A week of awards with Hamilton’s BTCA and the GPHGs

This week seems to be the week of awards shows. I was in California last weekend for the Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards, while today Andrew was at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards celebrate the hard work of those who work behind the scenes in the movie industry, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A week of awards with Hamilton’s BTCA and the GPHGs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Speake-Marin x Watches of Switzerland One & Two Dual Time Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Nov 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Speake-Marin x Watches of Switzerland One & Two Dual Time

When you think of a GMT watch with a blue dial, your mind probably goes to one of many sports watch classics. Having almost nothing in common with those is the new Speake-Marin collaboration with Watches of Switzerland - the One & Two Dual Time Limited Editions. Produced to pay tribute to the London origins … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Speake-Marin x Watches of Switzerland One & Two Dual Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hand-Wind Spring Drive “Asaborake” SBGY011 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Nov 10, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hand-Wind Spring Drive “Asaborake” SBGY011

Having launched several elegant and concise time-only watches this year, Grand Seiko has unveiled something once again simple but still unusual: the first regular-production, manual-wind Spring Drive 44GS, the Heritage Collection SBGY011 “Asaborake”. The SBGY011 combines two of the best elements of Grand Seiko (GS), namely the hybrid Spring Drive movement and the distinctive 44GS case. While the combination has been seen before, the SBGY011 brings something new to the table because the movement is manual wind, instead of self-winding as most Spring Drive calibres are. Initial thoughts I appreciate the SBGY011 because it retains the key features of the original, namely the 44GS case, silver dial, and hand-wind movement – but reinterpreted to incorporate contemporary elements such as the Spring Drive movement and patterned dial. Combined with the 44GS case, the silver dial gives the SBGY011 an aesthetic that’s close to the vintage 44GS of 1967. In fact, it’s essentially a modern, more technically-capable version of the original, which also contained a hand-wind mechanical movement. In fact, the SBGY011 is only the second hand-wind Spring Drive watch with a 44GS case, and the first and only one that’s not a limited edition. The hand-wind movement matters because the 44GS case is exponentially more attractive when it’s thin; in this case it is only 10.5 mm high. In comparison, a typical automatic Spring Drive is around 13 mm thick. Notably, despite being a regul...

VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Trilogy Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Trilogy If Nov 10, 2022

VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Trilogy

If you’ve been following Time+Tide closely, you’ll have noticed that Andrew has had some pretty special moments in Switzerland recently. As much as a visit to any Holy Trinity watch manufacturer is going to be a highlight, there seems to be something about the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin collection which just makes his eyes glaze … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Trilogy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Nov 10, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection

For me, Minase are one of the few brands who can beat Grand Seiko in their level of artful dials, finishing quality and ingenuity. In addition, their originality extends to their case design as well. Add in their reasonably low prices, and this Japanese brand is probably one of the best value options out there … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case Time+Tide
Grand Seiko debuts Nov 9, 2022

Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case

Grand Seiko is known for their colorful and textured dials born from natural muses. The Japanese philosophy of translating their surrounding nature into their craft has long distinguished their creations but, in regard to the Grand Seiko catalogue, has resulted in an ample menu of dial flavours to choose from. For the watch geek looking … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger

A company had to muster real tenacity to make it through the Quartz Crisis, but Delma managed to thrive instead of survive during those tough years, continuing to honour the art of traditional mechanical watchmaking. Despite this, they’re not talked about as much as they perhaps deserve to be, and so we’ve been taking a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year” SJX Watches
Casio nal practice Nov 7, 2022

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year”

Continuing with its occasional practice of special editions to mark the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC debuts the Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of Water Rabbit that begins in early 2023. The limited edition retains the style of the classic Portugieser but dressed up with a riveting burgundy dial with gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts As an admirer of vintage timepieces, I find few watches that match the distinctive simplicity of the original Portugieser ref. 325 from 1939. So the Portugieser Automatic 40 is easy to like since it echoes the feel of the vintage original. The Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” stands out with its unusual dial. Bright red is the traditional colour of Lunar New Year, but its darker counterpart is a more appropriate hue for a dress watch. While the design still evokes the original – the gold hands and numerals give it a vintage feel – the burgundy dial is more dynamic than the conventional silver alternative, giving it a more versatile feel than the formal original. More importantly, the new Portugieser is not merely a fancy dial catered to Asian buyers. The case back reveals the in-house movement that’s one of the better automatic movements in this price segment. Lastly, the Chinese New Year edition costs US$1,000 more than the standard edition, which is an acceptable premium for the new dial as well as the commemorative rabbit rotor. The only downside for a co...

MICRO MONDAYS: With a design that’s clean and serene, the Wolter Classic lets every detail breathe Time+Tide
Nov 7, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: With a design that’s clean and serene, the Wolter Classic lets every detail breathe

For the last few years, watchmaking has really been throwing off the shackles of stylistic repression across independent and large-scale manufacturers, leading to some of the most outlandish designs ever seen. Although an ever-increasing will to experiment can only be a good thing for the industry, the trend towards more eccentric shapes and “fun” colours … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: With a design that’s clean and serene, the Wolter Classic lets every detail breathe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has never Nov 6, 2022

VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction

Despite being over 50 years old, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has never ceased to be a thought provoker. Even though the signature octagonal design has well and truly been accepted into the collective consciousness of watch design, having thousands of copies and homages, there are still so many mysteries surrounding how the physical object … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.