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A quick flyover of IWC’s Pilot’s collection feat. the Classic, Le Petit Prince, Spitfire and Top Gun lines Time+Tide
IWC s Pilot’s collection feat Oct 22, 2019

A quick flyover of IWC’s Pilot’s collection feat. the Classic, Le Petit Prince, Spitfire and Top Gun lines

A little while ago, Andrew ran a series of overview videos on the various members of the IWC Pilot’s family. And, to be honest, it’s a story well worth telling, as the Pilot’s watch is one of the most recognisable and iconic wristwatch designs of the last 100 years. And while IWC don’t have a … ContinuedThe post A quick flyover of IWC’s Pilot’s collection feat. the Classic, Le Petit Prince, Spitfire and Top Gun lines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Unicorns Part III – Ref. 6062 Triple Calendar “Stelline Gordon Bethune” SJX Watches
Rolex Unicorns Part III – Oct 21, 2019

Rolex Unicorns Part III – Ref. 6062 Triple Calendar “Stelline Gordon Bethune”

The third important vintage Rolex – in my opinion – at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction, after the ref. 4113 split-seconds chronograph and mint ref. 8171 “Padellone”, is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar that once belonged to Gordon Bethune, the executive best known for turning around Continental Airlines during his decade-long tenure starting in 1994. The watch a sterling example of the ref. 6062 – and will sell for well over a million dollars – but it is also notable for what it says about the development of the vintage watch market. Now 78 and retired, though he pops up regularly on CNBC to comment on the airline industry, Mr Bethune accumulated his watch collection over two decades. He sold the bulk of it in 2012, but remains probably the only famous business executive known to have collected watches in a serious fashion (another is perhaps former Hollywood talent agent Michael Ovitz, though he more widely regarded as an important collector of contemporary art). Mr Bethune’s collection was inclined towards great, even some of the best, examples of important, uncommon and desirable watches, rather than extraordinarily or unique models. So he owned one of the best-preserved, all-original examples of the ref. 6062s “Stelline”, rather than say a well-worn ref. 6062 with a black, diamond-marker dial. It was a cold day in December… The Gordon Bethune Collection of Fifty Exceptional Vintage Wristwatches took place in December 2012 at Christi...

Glashütte Original Introduces the Seventies Chronograph Limited Edition SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces Oct 21, 2019

Glashütte Original Introduces the Seventies Chronograph Limited Edition

First introduced five years ago with dials in solid, metallic colours, Glashütte Original has jazzed up the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date with fumé dials featuring a graduated finish. Available either in green or grey fumé, the new edition is limited to 100 pieces each. Like the Sixties range of more classically shaped watches, the Seventies is a heavily retro line inspired by the experimental decade that’s best remembered for the birth of the luxury-sports-watch (and not much else, at least for now). The Seventies watches are typical of that decade’s style, characterised by square, stainless-steel cases and integrated bracelets. The chronograph has a television-shaped case that measures a chunky 40mm wide and 14.1mm in height. Like all of Glashütte Original’s recent, interesting dials, the fumé dials are produced by the former Th. Muller dial factory in Pforzheim that’s owned by its parent, the Swatch Group. Creating the smoked finish starts with the decorative sunray brushing applied to a German silver dial base with a rotating brass brush. The base then undergoes galvanisation before several coats of green or grey lacquer are applied. And finally, to achieve the graduated finish that darkens towards the edges, black lacquer is carefully applied to the edges with a spray gun, creating a slightly irregular dark border, then it is dried in a kiln. Mechanically, the watches are identical to the stock models; they are powered by the automatic chronograph...

Omega’s contemporary new museum offers a unique glimpse into its past Time+Tide
Omega s contemporary new museum Oct 20, 2019

Omega’s contemporary new museum offers a unique glimpse into its past

Omega has just opened their latest Museum in the heart of the “La Cité du Temps” in Biel, Switzerland. The museum, which has a decidedly modern aesthetic, was designed by the award-winning Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, who is famed for his groundbreaking work with paper and recycled cardboard. Housed inside the contemporary institution is a … ContinuedThe post Omega’s contemporary new museum offers a unique glimpse into its past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Regulator Time+Tide
Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Regulator Oct 19, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Regulator

If you’ve been around watches for more than a few years there’s a decent chance you’re familiar with the watch designs of Alain Silberstein. They’re bold, bright and very much of their time - crazy shapes and primary colours that go to show that Bauhaus design is far from boring. It’s minimalism, but in the most … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Regulator appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Trick or treat with the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Editor’s Oct 19, 2019

Trick or treat with the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton

Editor’s note: One of my main criteria for a banger watch these days is wearability. Sure, looks are important, but fit reigns supreme. Luckily, the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton delivers on both fronts …  The story in a second:  Contemporary design and classic size make this a winning combination. It’s no secret that the Defy … ContinuedThe post Trick or treat with the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Another look at the Baume & Mercier Baumatic – one of the best everyday dress watches at its price point Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Oct 18, 2019

Another look at the Baume & Mercier Baumatic – one of the best everyday dress watches at its price point

Editor’s note: Razor-sharp details, timeless style and a solid new movement make the Baume & Mercier Baumatic an excellent option for an everyday dress watch that doesn’t break the bank.  The story in a second: Classic on the outside, contemporary on the inside. Baume & Mercier are onto a winner here. I’ve always thought Baume … ContinuedThe post Another look at the Baume & Mercier Baumatic – one of the best everyday dress watches at its price point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

It’s a date! Glashütte Original drop two new takes on the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Time+Tide
Glashütte Original drop two new takes Oct 18, 2019

It’s a date! Glashütte Original drop two new takes on the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date

It will surprise precisely no one to learn that round watches are the most popular category. But, versatile as the circle is, the round watch can be a bit same-samey. That’s not an issue with this fancy pair of Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Dates, offered in some stylish new dial variations. Before we get … ContinuedThe post It’s a date! Glashütte Original drop two new takes on the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Corum Introduces the Golden Bridge Round 43 Art Deco SJX Watches
Corum Introduces Oct 17, 2019

Corum Introduces the Golden Bridge Round 43 Art Deco

Invented by pioneering independent watchmaker Vincent Calabrese in 1980 – whose specialty remains intriguing shaped movements – the Golden Bridge has become a Corum signature – a tiny, baguette-shaped movement suspended in watch cases of varying shapes and sizes. Despite being almost 40 years old, the Golden Bridge remains an impressive feat of movement construction, and one that is not as highly regarded as it should be. The latest iteration of the watch is the Golden Bridge Round 43 Art Deco, which installs the Golden Bridge movement in a conventional, round case, but frames it on both sides with sets of brass wires, evoking the cables of suspension bridges. Two versions are available: one with gilded wires and a yellow gold movement, the other with rhodium-plated wires and a matching movement. Mechanically the CO 113 movement is identical to that found in earlier versions. Taking its name literally, the movement has its bridges and main plate in solid 18k gold. It was born out of Mr Calabrese’s original design – which was delicate and finicky – having been reengineered about a decade ago by Laurent Besse, an independent watchmaker who formerly worked for Corum after his own workshop went bust. The case is a large 43mm and made of titanium coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC), giving it a glossy black finish. Its size means it loses the delicate elegance of the originals, which were all contained in narrow, rectangular cases, but conversely the round cas...

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: René Beyer on Beyer double-signed dials Time+Tide
Oct 17, 2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: René Beyer on Beyer double-signed dials

In their upcoming auction, Phillips is focusing their attention on the finest examples of highly coveted double-signed dials. A double-signed dial is where a brand has allowed the name of the retailer that will sell the watch to appear on the dial, alongside the brand’s name. Retailers that have had the opportunity to showcase their … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: René Beyer on Beyer double-signed dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Black and Hello: Rediscovering the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Oct 17, 2019

Black and Hello: Rediscovering the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire

Editor’s note: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire perfectly typifies why the Swiss watchmaker is at the forefront of material innovation and design aesthetic - you just don’t see many watches out there like this. This particular Spirit of Big Bang was actually the first watch in the world to be made of … ContinuedThe post Black and Hello: Rediscovering the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: A deep dive into the future of Baselworld Time+Tide
Oct 16, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: A deep dive into the future of Baselworld

Whether you’re an inveterate watch tragic, or just starting on your watch journey, the last year has been dominated by two main conversations. The drought of steel sports models (sorry guys, I got no answers for you on that one), and the future of Baselworld.  Now, if you’re coming in cold on the concept of … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: A deep dive into the future of Baselworld appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Aten-shun! The Longines Heritage Military is on parade Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Military Oct 15, 2019

Aten-shun! The Longines Heritage Military is on parade

Editor’s note: From a purely real estate perspective, the dial is the most important part of the watch. It’s what you look at most of the time, and it’s the functional heart and soul of the watch. And while I’m willing to admit that other parts of the watch might play a role, let’s roll … ContinuedThe post Aten-shun! The Longines Heritage Military is on parade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: How independent watchmakers are changing the game Time+Tide
Oct 14, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: How independent watchmakers are changing the game

Nicholas Foulkes is an author, journalist and perhaps the closest thing the 21st century has to a genuine flâneur. He’s also deeply entrenched in the finer workings of the finer elements of the Swiss watch industry, so when he writes, it’s worth reading. His latest column in the Financial Times’ excellently titled ‘How to Spend … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: How independent watchmakers are changing the game appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.