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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Cambodian Watchmaking School Debuts an In-House Tourbillon SJX Watches
Nov 22, 2022

Cambodian Watchmaking School Debuts an In-House Tourbillon

Presented to the world leaders who were recently in Phnom Penh for the ASEAN Summit, the ASEAN Lotus Tourbillon was created by the Prince Horology Vocational Training Center, the impressively-equipped watchmaking school set up by local conglomerate Prince Holding Group. (I visited the school in 2020 just before it opened its doors – see our report here.) Produced in an initial run of 25 pieces for the summit, it contains a hand-wind movement that is as notable for both its hand finishing and the one-minute tourbillon regulator. Cambodian prime minister Hun Sen was personally involved in the design of the watch – he received the very first example – and posted photos of the watch on his Facebook page a few days before the summit with the comment “Khmer can do it”. Initial thoughts Having been aware of the project and its ambitions since I visited the school two years ago, I was expecting much of the Lotus Tourbillon and I wasn’t disappointed. The quality of the execution is immediately apparent in the hand finishing of the components, particularly for the key components of the tourbillon, namely the cage and bridge. Equally impressive is the fact that it was developed and completed in under two years. Admittedly, the Lotus Tourbillon is plain in terms of the dial and case aesthetics, but the mechanical excellence is obvious. Importantly, the movement is likely to make it into a series of watches that will be sold publicly to raise funds for watchmaking school,...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads Time+Tide
Nov 21, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads

Trafford are shaping up to be a brand who are impossible to pin down, but if their releases continue the trend of happy surprises then we can only hope that never stops. Their first watch was a chronograph dedicated to 20th Century racing drivers-turned-spies, and their second watch is this new Crossroads. Despite a British … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The memes of the week: Dumb buys, colonoscopies and the wisdom of dads Time+Tide
Casio n But sometimes life Nov 20, 2022

The memes of the week: Dumb buys, colonoscopies and the wisdom of dads

Hospital chic (via @watchumor) Style is about being appropriately dressed for the occasion. But sometimes life throws you a sartorial curveball. Having to submit to a thin, flexible tube containing a small camera being inserted into your bottom probably qualifies as such. So what to wear on your wrist? Do you take the high-contrast approach … ContinuedThe post The memes of the week: Dumb buys, colonoscopies and the wisdom of dads appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Titoni Airmaster delivers classic vibes and a dial in ‘glacier turquoise’ Time+Tide
Nov 20, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Titoni Airmaster delivers classic vibes and a dial in ‘glacier turquoise’

Having produced watches under the names Felca and Felco throughout the 1920s to ‘50s, the brand morphed into the more modern-sounding Titoni in the slick age of the 1960s and ‘70s. Although it’s extremely difficult to find original examples of them that haven’t been refurbished or frankensteined into other parts, the first generations of the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Titoni Airmaster delivers classic vibes and a dial in ‘glacier turquoise’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTERVIEW: A virtual hot lap with Formula 1’s rising star George Russell Time+Tide
Hamilton as Nov 19, 2022

INTERVIEW: A virtual hot lap with Formula 1’s rising star George Russell

It’s been an eventful 12 months for George Russell. After his first real taste of Formula One victory was cruelly taken away from him as he filled in for a COVID-stuck Lewis Hamilton as the 2020 Sakir Grand Prix, Russell had to bide his time at Williams before getting his chance at the big time. … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: A virtual hot lap with Formula 1’s rising star George Russell appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters Time+Tide
Patek Philippe s dearer than your Nov 18, 2022

Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters

It’ll be no surprise to you to hear that another rapper has been on record showing off their watch collection. Tyler, The Creator, however, is no ordinary rapper. His collection doesn’t include iced-out Rolexes and Patek Philippes dearer than your first-born, no. The Californian’s tastes lie in a brand that’s seen an incredible resurgence in … ContinuedThe post Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring2 Introduces the Doppel 38 SJX Watches
IWC three decades ago Now Nov 18, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Doppel 38

Habring² has scaled down its signature split-seconds chronograph to create the Doppel 38, which retains all of the key features of the original but in a more compact case. Still having the “bullhead” pusher layout that characterises the split-seconds chronographs of Habring², the Doppel 38 is smaller and thinner than its predecessor, but continues to be powered by the proprietary hand-wound A11R calibre. Initial thoughts Long one of the best values in terms of sub-US$10,000 chronographs, the Doppel is perhaps the archetypal Habring² watch since it’s descended from the complication Mr Habring invented at IWC three decades ago. Now vastly improved and refined by Mr Habring, the Doppel possibly the most accessible split-seconds chronograph on the market – in itself a major point of appeal. But the original Doppel was 42 mm, not massive but large enough to make someone who prefers smaller watches think twice. Personally I thought the larger Doppel was sized well for its particular type of complication, but the Doppel 38 is unexpectedly compact, especially at just 11.5 mm high. Beyond making it more wearable for more people, the new dimensions will no doubt give the Doppel 38 a slightly more retro feel, although the dial styles on offer are thoroughly modern. And it remains affordable as such things go, with a retail price of about US$7,900 before taxes. A value-proposition split-seconds Like many of the recent watches from the brand, the Doppel 38 is simple in sty...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Nomos, Kurono and Louis Erard drops this week Time+Tide
Louis Erard drops Nov 18, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Nomos, Kurono and Louis Erard drops this week

This week for the Wind Down I am going to dig into some last-minute headlines you may have missed. Within the last 24 hours, Nomos, Kurono and Louis Erard all delivered some under-the-radar reveals. Nomos refine their Ludwig neomatik 41 Date with revised date disc Earlier today, Nomos debuted their new Ludwig neomatik 41 date … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Nomos, Kurono and Louis Erard drops this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Jewelled Ref. 5271 with Sapphires or Rubies SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Nov 17, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Jewelled Ref. 5271 with Sapphires or Rubies

Patek Philippe has introduced two variants of its classic paired complication: the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5271/11P and Ref. 5271/12P are set with blue sapphires and rubies respectively, with each having a graduated finish dial in a matching colour. Both new references retain the look and feel of the ref. 5270 but certainly pack a punch with their flamboyant jewelled cases. The first serially-produced gem-set variants of the reference in 11 years, the new pair joins the existing diamond-set ref. 5271P as the bling versions of Patek Philippe’s archetypal complication. Initial thoughts Much of the excitement over new releases from Patek Philippe tend to be centred on its sports watches nowadays but that’s not all that the brand has been doing. At Watches & Wonders in March, the brand launched a new version of the longstanding ref. 5270 that featured a smoked green dial that was widely applauded (no doubt in part due to the current popularity of the colour). But the recent launches left me wondering, what else can Patek Philippe do to up its game beyond its mastery of complications? Well, now we have an answer. In terms of the design, the new ref. 5271s retain the classic layout and distinctive feel of the perpetual calendar chronographs that the brand is known for, but with a few adjustments to the dial that give it a more contemporary feel. And then the coloured gemstones transform a watch that is ordinarily sedate into something over the top. While gem-se...

£80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow Time+Tide
Omega spends 20 years Nov 16, 2022

£80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow

As watch collectors we all wish to one day stumble on a “barnyard” find. An old watch that’s dug up and sold at an estate sale by an owner who has no idea what it is actually worth. We hear the stories, and they always seem too good to be true. But they definitely happen and, … ContinuedThe post £80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Double-sided Chronograph Revolution
Franck Muller Nov 16, 2022

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Double-sided Chronograph

Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This double-sided chronograph is powered by the historically significant, Valjoux-based Caliber 7000, one of Franck’s most highly lauded creations. It features a second […]

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Tri-compax Chronograph Revolution
Franck Muller Nov 16, 2022

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Tri-compax Chronograph

Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This black dial, three-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Bi-compax Chronograph Revolution
Franck Muller Nov 16, 2022

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Bi-compax Chronograph

Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This silver dial, two-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]

Sarpaneva Introduces the Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Nov 16, 2022

Sarpaneva Introduces the Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi”

Inspired by the northern lights, the Sarpaneva x Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” continues the Finnish’s brands tradition of artfully applied Super-Luminova. This 17-piece limited edition Stepan Sarpaneva’s third model dedicated to Valteri Bottas, a fellow Finn who competes for the Alfa Romeo Formula 1 team. Unlike the first pair of Bottas editions that made by Mr Sarpaneva’s more affordable S.U.F. brand, the Kilpisjärvi is a full-fledged Sarpaneva watch so it has an elaborately open-worked dial, unusually shaped case, and in a first for the brand, the Chronode P1003 automatic movement inside. Initial thoughts Born into a family of designers and artists, Stepan Sarpenava unsurprisingly has a strikingly distinct aesthetic. This comes through in all of his work, despite the diversity of his offerings. With its open-worked dial and multi-coloured lume, the Kilpisjärvi might seem similar to his recent releases, but it is notably different. In contrast to the earlier editions that were heavily figurative, the Kilpisjärvi is abstract, especially during the day. In fact, the dial pattern is almost graceful, though the aggressive Sarpaneva styling is still obvious in the hands and case. Only at night when the Super-Luminova glows is the northern lights motif easily apparent. For anyone who enjoys Mr Sarpaneva’s unusual aesthetic, the Kilpisjärvi is easily appealing – with two caveats. One is the size, which at 46 mm is large and places it amongst the biggest Sarp...

7 Watch Strap Types and the Pros and Cons of Each Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 15, 2022

7 Watch Strap Types and the Pros and Cons of Each

Among the many decisions facing a prospective watch buyer before pulling the trigger on a new timepiece is choosing which type of strap or bracelet it should have. Watch straps vary widely in their materials, construction, finishing, and even in their original intended usage, with some straps projecting a sense of genteel refinement and others possessing military ruggedness or everyday sportiness. Here is a look at five watch strap types, their origins, and their attributes. Dress Leather Strap The practice of attaching watches to leather straps goes all the way back to the Boer Wars of the late 19th Century, which were fought in South Africa. British soldiers began wearing their pocket watches on crude leather attachments rather than in their jacket pockets because they often needed to doff their jackets and waistcoats in the extreme African heat. By the early 1900s, pioneers like London saddlemaker Alfred Pearson and Swiss watch importers the Dimier brothers were converting pocket watches into wristwatches by soldering wire lugs onto the cases and slipping such leather wristlets through them to secure them to wrists. The style became widespread after World War I, during which military men wore these wristwatches on the battlefield, and entered the realm of high fashion in subsequent years. Leather straps are usually made from calfskin, alligator, or crocodile leather (the latter two generally being associated with a higher level of luxury), but other, more exotic types...

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 Nov 15, 2022

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful

I recently tackled the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph IW371620, a solid summer watch that brings the youthful summer vibes to a classic and storied collection and manufacture. But a chronograph is not always everyone’s flavour. Unless you are dead-set on using a mechanical and analogue timekeeper for timing cars on the racetrack, or more realistically … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Yema Wristmaster Traveller Micro-Rotor is a charming take on the integrated bracelet sports watch Time+Tide
Yema Nov 15, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Yema Wristmaster Traveller Micro-Rotor is a charming take on the integrated bracelet sports watch

One of the things that sets Yema apart from their competitors, whether you ever considered them a microbrand or not, was that they had their own affordable in-house movement. The YEMA2000 was definitely an improvement upon the off-the-shelf calibers from ETA or Sellita that we would expect to see, however its use was more of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Yema Wristmaster Traveller Micro-Rotor is a charming take on the integrated bracelet sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Carbotech and Blu Abisso deliver brooding looks and high-tech attitude Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible Carbotech Nov 13, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Carbotech and Blu Abisso deliver brooding looks and high-tech attitude

Love them or hate them, the journey of Panerai has been an incredible evolution. Since the practical yet eccentric cushion-cased dive watches of the 1930s they helped supply to the Italian Navy, the Panerai name has been brandished by the likes of Arnold Schwarzenegger, Sylvester Stallone, Dwayne Johnson and Jason Statham doubling down on the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Carbotech and Blu Abisso deliver brooding looks and high-tech attitude appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 12, 2022

Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022

A much-anticipated series of auctions just concluded in Geneva, the first sale season to take place after financial markets started to crack in mid 2022. All the major auction houses – Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s – staged sales in the Swiss city, and almost everyone who was anyone turned up (or took part by phone or online). The season’s top performer by the numbers was Christie’s, which sold CHF55.5 million of watches, fees included, largely thanks to the collection of former Ferrari Formula 1 chief Jean Todt. It displaced the traditional number one, Phillips, which sold CHF45.0 million. The Phillips auction at La Reserve. Image – Phillips A few takeaways are immediately apparent in the results. One was widely expected: “hype” watches have come off their highs, often by a third or more. Including obvious candidates like sports watches, namely the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Overseas, but also brands that enjoyed massive run-ups in value during the pandemic like F.P. Journe. Values are still up from the pre-pandemic lows, but if prices overcorrected on the way up, then it is likely they will do so on the way down. Sotheby’s, for instance, had several dozen examples of various Nautilus and Royal Oak models in its sale, mostly with estimates close to peak values from late 2021. As a result, a third of the watches went unsold. The dip in values was also evident with F.P. Journe, certainly not a “hype” brand but one that enjoy a stellar run during ...

Chris Evans unveiled as People Magazine’s Sexiest Man Alive while wearing this watch… Time+Tide
Nov 11, 2022

Chris Evans unveiled as People Magazine’s Sexiest Man Alive while wearing this watch…

Chris Evans has long been beloved by audiences worldwide. From the early years of his career in Not Another Teen Movie, to the role of Captain America that launched him into superstardom, the versatile actor has played many characters over the years. But, the one irrefutable through-line is that no matter the role – even … ContinuedThe post Chris Evans unveiled as People Magazine’s Sexiest Man Alive while wearing this watch… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.