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Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)

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Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight Apr 26, 2024

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches

Tudor returned to the U.S. market after a lengthy absence in 2013 and the Rolex-owned brand had its first big hit in this modern era with the launch of the Black Bay (originally the Heritage Black Bay), a stylish, sporty divers’ watch, with a plethora of historical details drawn from Tudor dive watches of yore. In 2018, in response to growing consumer demand both for more modest case sizes and for greater period authenticity in vintage-style timepieces, Tudor introduced the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, which proved to hit the sweet spot for many contemporary enthusiasts. Named for the year 1958, in which Tudor released the Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7924, the most clear forerunner to the Black Bay, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight models match that watch’s 39mm case diameter, which is downsized from the 41mm-to-43mm sizes still common to the core Black Bay series. Since its launch, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight has become one of the most popular extensions of the expanding Black Bay collection, and has been the stage for Tudor’s recent (and historically rare) forays into the realm of precious metals. Descended From a Prince: Black Bay DNA The aesthetic origin of the Black Bay starts with the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, released in 1954, one year after big brother Rolex rolled out its own much more famous purpose-built dive watch, also called the Submariner. This original version, Ref. 7922, used the same “Mercedes” handset found on many Rolex models and was water-resistan...

Introducing: The Mint-Green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure Powered By A Vintage Valjoux 92 Movement Fratello
Farer style sunglasses Apr 26, 2024

Introducing: The Mint-Green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure Powered By A Vintage Valjoux 92 Movement

Imagine driving your mint-green Ford Mustang convertible from the ’60s along the Californian coast during the golden hour. You’re wearing your favorite pair of Wayfarer-style sunglasses, and the wind is gently blowing through your hair. On your wrist is the brand-new mint-green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure with a vintage Valjoux 92 movement inside. […] Visit Introducing: The Mint-Green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure Powered By A Vintage Valjoux 92 Movement to read the full article.

First Look - The New Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Bronze Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Bronze Apr 26, 2024

First Look - The New Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Bronze

The Calpyso line was Maurice Lacroix‘s best-selling luxury sports watch during the 1990s and was powered by a mix of mechanical and quartz movements. Gauging the current market appetite for luxury sports watches for consumers without five-figure budgets, the Calypso underwent a fundamental overhaul and was transformed into the Aikon. Launched in 2016 with quartz […]

Hands-On With The New Salmon-Dial Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar Fratello
Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar Apr 26, 2024

Hands-On With The New Salmon-Dial Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar

The big news from Patek Philippe at this year’s Watches and Wonders came in “denim.” The pale blue dials and denim-look straps certainly drew the most attention. I would argue, however, that another watch deserves a bit more of a spotlight. Join me for a closer look at the Patek Philippe 5236P-010 in-line perpetual calendar […] Visit Hands-On With The New Salmon-Dial Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.

Explained: Bovet Solves Daylight Savings Time in the Wristwatch SJX Watches
Ming ly simple nature Apr 26, 2024

Explained: Bovet Solves Daylight Savings Time in the Wristwatch

The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is an ingenious solution to an age-old problem: accounting for daylight saving time (also known as summer time) in a multi-timezone wristwatch. Despite the seemingly simple nature of the problem, the solution is extraordinarily complicated, requiring two dozen rollers and many more gears and springs. With its roller-based world time mechanism, the Récital 28 can easily switch between showing summer or winter in both Europe and America, making the first-ever wristwatch able to do that. Initial thoughts Bovet’s complicated watches are usually enormous, intricately mechanical, and sometimes extravagantly decorated, sometimes sporting pearls, diamonds, and enamel work. The Récital 28 is less decorative but intensely mechanical. With clever engineering, the calibre inside addresses one of the longstanding challenges of a travel-time watch, accounting for daylight saving time (DST). The cleverness of the Récital 28 lies in its rollers, which each have four positions. This allows time zones to be easily backwards or forwards in accordance with DST. Even though the solution is straightforward in principle, executing it is immensely complex. In order to accommodate its many functions, the R28-70-00X movement incorporates multiple subassemblies that make it a unique proposition. As a result, the movement in the Récital 28 is unusually complicated, especially for what is essentially a world time watch. Its part-count of 744 puts it in grand comp...

Our Favorite Releases from Watches & Wonders Week Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon Apr 25, 2024

Our Favorite Releases from Watches & Wonders Week

With Watches & Wonders in the books and a few weeks of space from the deluge of new releases, it’s time to look back on the show and figure out what really spoke to us. It was, by most accounts, a somewhat slow year for new releases, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t a lot of great watches to choose from for a retrospective article like this. And for this exercise, we’re not limiting ourselves to watches exhibited at Watches & Wonders proper, either. There were literally hundreds of brands with new watches to show throughout the city of Geneva during Watches & Wonders week. We didn’t see them all, but we caught as many as we could, and these are the watches that stand out as favorites.  Stay tuned tomorrow for favorites from our roster of contributors! Zach Weiss  I usually have difficulty picking favorites after events like Watches & Wonders. One sees so much, so quickly, that making judgments is difficult, and what’s left in one’s mind after is sort of an image cloud of memories. No single thing overtakes any other. But this year was different. Since the show, I’ve found myself thinking about two watches, or rather, one watch and one case/movement combo. The watch is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon in platinum. Yes, I’ve gone full fancy pants and chosen a nearly six-figure watch, but hear me out… it was gorgeous. Admittedly, the Duometre line is one that I’ve had a bit of a fascination with over the last year or so, as the original...

Seiko GMT Watch Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko GMT Watch Buyer's Guide Apr 25, 2024

Seiko GMT Watch Buyer's Guide

More than just about any other watchmaker, Japan's Seiko has become known for offering not only multiple styles and complications in its product families, but also several different types of movements - from affordable quartz, to proprietary hybrid Spring Drive, to high-tech solar and radio-controlled, to classically traditional mechanical. However, one Holy Grail combo that has eluded Seiko and its fans until very recently is the rare GMT (aka dual-time) watch powered by a mechanical movement and priced at what most would consider entry-level for a budding collector. Fortunately, the past few years of R&D; have yielded several all-new GMT-equipped, self-winding mechanical movements for the Japanese megabrand, which have found their way into several models in its modern collections. Here’s a guide to familiarize yourself with all the Seiko mechanical GMTs on the market now - and yes, all of them offer the enticing value proposition that has made Seiko a darling of enthusiasts at every level of economic means. SEIKO 5 SPORTS The Seiko 5 Sports series traces its roots all the way back to 1963 and the original Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a groundbreaking timepiece that ushered in the emblematic “five attributes” that define Seiko’s entry-level mechanical collection today. These include automatic movements, date or day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet made of durable materials. Stylistically, the w...

#TBT Visual Glory With The Must De Cartier Tank Art Deco Ref. 1616 Fratello
Cartier Tank Art Deco Ref Apr 25, 2024

#TBT Visual Glory With The Must De Cartier Tank Art Deco Ref. 1616

Next year will mark 30 years since Cartier released the Must de Cartier Tank Art Deco. Maybe I should feel embarrassed that I don’t recall ever seeing it before. But the moment I spotted it last week, I instantly fell in love. If it weren’t quartz and in the ballpark of €10,000, it would be […] Visit #TBT Visual Glory With The Must De Cartier Tank Art Deco Ref. 1616 to read the full article.

Hands-On: MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 in Blue CarbonMacrolon SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux calibre has been MB&F;’s Apr 25, 2024

Hands-On: MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 in Blue CarbonMacrolon

MB&F; has released the third instalment of its automobile-inspired wristwatch, the HM8 Mark 2. Now in blue CarbonMacrolon, the latest HM8 Mark 2 follows on the green and white iterations introduced last year. Inspired by 1970s sports cars like the Lamborghini Miura, the new Mark 2 retains the model’s signature speedometer-like display for the time and “double bubble” sapphire crystal. Although the CarbonMacrolon panels of the case are also found on earlier versions, the material has been tweaked to incorporate ingredients also found in automotive paint, giving the case a metallic, sparkly blue finish resembling a car’s paintwork. Initial thoughts Though only a cosmetic update to the model, the latest HM8 Mark 2 is the most striking to date. Though the change of colour might seem like a trivial matter, the new paintwork is a perfect complement to the styling and concept of the watch – the metallic finish really does evoke the paintwork of a high-end automobile. Interestingly, the new Mark 2 feels sleeker than the earlier versions thanks to the paintwork, even though the watch is identical in dimensions and form. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard version, and the same movement is visible in the “engine bay” through the sloping sapphire crystal. The Girard-Perregaux calibre has been MB&F;’s base movement of choice almost since its founding two decades ago, so something more interesting would be a useful upgrade, particularly since the movement i...

Introducing: The Credor Eichi II 50th Anniversary Special Edition Fratello
Grand Seiko s will be found Apr 25, 2024

Introducing: The Credor Eichi II 50th Anniversary Special Edition

Seiko has possibly the widest range of entirely in-house-manufactured watches in today’s market. Everything from Spartan Seiko 5 watches to highly complicated Grand Seikos will be found. Since 1974, the company has even had a Haute Horlogerie branch in the form of Credor. And for those who are quick at arithmetic, that is precisely 50 […] Visit Introducing: The Credor Eichi II 50th Anniversary Special Edition to read the full article.

Introducing - Credor Celebrates its 50th Anniversary with the Blue/Gold Eichi II GBLT996 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Apr 25, 2024

Introducing - Credor Celebrates its 50th Anniversary with the Blue/Gold Eichi II GBLT996

While Grand Seiko is often regarded as the top-tier brand within the Seiko Group, there’s yet another hidden gem that’s not as easily available, not understandable, but equals (and sometimes surpasses) GS regarding complexity and attention to detail; Credor. Born in 1974, Credor gained international fame in the 2000s with the creation of highly complex […]

Omega Expands the Speedmaster 38 mm Range SJX Watches
Omega Expands Apr 25, 2024

Omega Expands the Speedmaster 38 mm Range

A smaller, feminine iteration of the famous chronograph, the Omega Speedmaster 38 mm is set apart by an unusual dial design characterised by oval sub-dials and a matching oval date window. Now the brand has grown the range to include new dial finished in metallic brown or green, both available in either steel or Omega’s proprietary gold alloys. Initial thoughts The new offerings grow the Speedmaster models catered to female consumers. Though the changes are mostly cosmetic, they are done well, with the diamonds set on the sub-dials being a particularly thoughtful detail that emphasises the oval form of the registers. At the same time, the new dial colours, which are physical vapour deposition (PVD) like other recent Omega dials, are attractive, though not new. That said, the Speedmaster 38 mm is essentially a scaled-down version of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. Though shrinking a man’s watch is often the formula for ladies watches, this would have been more interesting with more substantive changes. This is particularly relevant in terms of the case thickness, which is almost 15 mm, resulting in chunky proportions that don’t complement the styling. The new models are priced as expected for chronograph set with diamonds: starting at US$17,400 in steel on a strap, and rising to US$46,400 in gold on a bracelet.  The Speedmaster 38 mm in steel, 18k Moonshine Gold, and 18k Sedna Gold Diamonds and more The latest iterations are essentially luxury upgrades to the existing Spe...

Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht Fratello
Ming Apr 25, 2024

Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht

Hello, and welcome to an on-location episode of Fratello Talks. Today, Nacho, Daan, and Lex are coming to you from the Watch Valley event in Utrecht, where Swatch Group novelties for the first half of 2024 were unveiled. They’ll run through some of their favorites and give opinions on the different brand’s new watches and […] Visit Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht to read the full article.

Introducing: The Orient Star M34 F8 Date With A Dial Pattern Inspired By Meteor Showers Fratello
Orient Apr 24, 2024

Introducing: The Orient Star M34 F8 Date With A Dial Pattern Inspired By Meteor Showers

I would be lying if I didn’t admit to being a big fan of Japanese craftsmanship, especially the emphasis on artfully inspired dials. Orient Star is the top-tier division of big-box brand Orient, a well-known entity if you’re already into watches. The biggest draw is that Japanese brands have a particular design mindset and quality […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M34 F8 Date With A Dial Pattern Inspired By Meteor Showers to read the full article.

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a True Super Watch Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Kodo I think Apr 24, 2024

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a True Super Watch

Each year at Watches & Wonders, we see a handful of novelties that I think can fairly be described as Super Watches. These are the truly audacious creations that are, effectively, out of reach for all but that 1% of the 1% that has the coin and the inclination to buy into something incredibly niche, that’s incredibly expensive, that (honestly) might be years away from actually being produced and successfully delivered. The Grand Seiko Kodo, I think, is a good example of a Super Watch. It stopped everyone in their tracks, had an eye watering price point, and was the ultimate artistic and mechanical expression of the brand that made it. This year had a few Super Watch candidates (including another Kodo) but I think the winner walking away was a watch from A. Lange & Söhne that took the radical step of combining all the things people love about the brand into one watch. A Super Watch, if you will.  The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” was easily my favorite watch name to say aloud during the show. When someone would ask me what my favorite watch of the week was (a question you’re asked about fifty times per day, minimum) I’d reflexively say “Oh, the Lange,” and then continue, probably looking skyward while counting out the watch’s cumbersome title on my fingers, like a school kid figuring out a math problem, “the Datograph, perpetual, tourbillon, lumen,” (I’d always screw it up here) “in honeygold!” I’d be really proud of myself f...

Rolex GMT-Master II: The Ultimate Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex GMT-Master II Apr 24, 2024

Rolex GMT-Master II: The Ultimate Guide

The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most coveted luxury travel watches on the planet, and its predecessor, the original, non-numerical GMT-Master, basically established the template that other dual-time zone timepieces have been following for more than half a century. Here is a detailed look at the history and evolution of the GMT-Master II, from its aviation-inspired beginnings in 1954 to the iconic status it enjoys in the modern era, with all the major models spotlighted in between. 1954: “PEPSI” FOR PILOTS Rolex, the luxury watch firm founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, achieved one of its many milestones in 1953 with the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner, the first serially produced wristwatch with a case water-resistant to 100 meters and hence one of the first and most influential watches purpose-built for diving. If the watch community was wondering what Rolex could possibly do for an encore, they didn’t have long to discover the answer. The following year, 1954, saw the introduction of another trend-setting, genre-defining timepiece, the original Rolex GMT-Master (Ref. 6542, which actually hit the market in 1955), the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal ...

Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase Someday Apr 24, 2024

Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase

Someday, a history of this period in affordable independent watchmaking will be written, and the chapter on Christopher Ward is going to be the longest in this hypothetical volume, for sure. They’ve been around since 2004, and in the ensuing twenty years have gone through just about every high and low a watch brand can experience. While the ultimate thrust of their story is one of incredible growth, those of us who have been around for a little while can probably remember a time when the thought of Christopher Ward winning GPHG awards and being the toast of the watchmaking town would have been fairly unheard of.  The Bel Canto, introduced at the tail end of 2022, changed all that, but the brand had been on an upward trajectory for years before. They’ve come a very long way from being one of the most hotly discussed watch forum brands (so hot, in fact, they have their own forum for C. Ward enthusiasts) know primarily for somewhat generic, but always well made, dive watches. Over the years, they’ve stepped up every facet of their business, with particularly large steps taken in case finishing and movement design. In a very low key way, they are capable of doing things at the higher end of their range that other brands at similar price points simply can’t equal.  While the Bel Canto deservedly gets a lot of the press, one my favorite little pockets of Christopher Ward over the last few years has been the inventive way they’ve incorporated the classic moonphase com...

Bringing My Grandfather’s Tissot Seastar Back - Is Refinishing A Crime? Fratello
Tissot Seastar Back - Apr 24, 2024

Bringing My Grandfather’s Tissot Seastar Back - Is Refinishing A Crime?

Heirloom watches are special, and I have a few, including two pocket watches. But there is one in particular that has given me sleepless nights while hiding in a dark corner of my case. Finally, I set out on the mission of bringing my grandfather’s Tissot Seastar back to its glory. And after a three-month […] Visit Bringing My Grandfather’s Tissot Seastar Back - Is Refinishing A Crime? to read the full article.

Now In The Shop - Handmade Crocheted Watch Rolls With A Story Fratello
Apr 24, 2024

Now In The Shop - Handmade Crocheted Watch Rolls With A Story

Today, in the Fratello Shop, we’re excited to bring you an item with a real story. These are watch rolls, but they’re a little different than the everyday, mass-produced holders found online. No, these rolls are handmade and come from a small village in Slovakia. The reason for their existence relates to one of our […] Visit Now In The Shop - Handmade Crocheted Watch Rolls With A Story to read the full article.

Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue” SJX Watches
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Apr 24, 2024

Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue”

When Rolex surprised with the launch of the 1908 last year, we liked it – Brandon Moore wrote a positive review. Now Rolex has followed up with the Perpetual 1908 in platinum (ref. 52506) with an “ice blue” guilloché dial of notably high quality. Though identical in almost all respects to the versions in gold, the new 1908 is very different – and significantly more compelling. Initial thoughts Done the traditional way with a hand-operated machine, the guilloché dial gives the watch an entirely different character. The pale blue is also more modern and striking than last year’s colours, which were fairly old fashioned. At the same time, the dial has a slightly glossy finish that gives it an even brighter hue. The guilloché transforms the dial, which was fairly staid in the earlier models. I would still do away with the peculiar hands inspired by the Submariner and other sports watches, but the dial is attractive as it is. The dial is engraved on a hand-operated rose engine Not only does it look better, the platinum 1908 also feels more appealing. It has the same slim profile as the gold versions, but has more heft thanks to the denser case material. More generally, it has the same tactile quality as all Rolex watches – it feels tangibly well made despite the compact size. While the dial is impressive artisanal quality, the rest of the watch is outstanding industrial quality. Though the case is thin, it is exceptionally robust and solid, as is the screw-down ...

First Look - The Striking New Arceau Duc Attelé, a Remarkable Hermès Creation Monochrome
Hermes Apr 24, 2024

First Look - The Striking New Arceau Duc Attelé, a Remarkable Hermès Creation

In watchmaking, creativity is a constant topic of conversation. Few can match the innovation of Hermès, and many can learn from the brand’s approach. The new Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé, featuring a central triple-axis high-frequency tourbillon and a minute repeater, showcases impeccable craftsmanship and construction. Seamlessly blending the equestrian theme into its design, this timepiece […]