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Results for Dauphine Hands

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Dauphine Hands

Tapered triangular faceted hour and minute hands; the mid-century European dress-watch standard, used today by Patek, Vacheron, JLC.
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual C... Apr 22, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary

Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th anniversary with the record-setting, most-complicated-watch-ever, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. Fortunately, the celebratory line-up also includes the more affordable: one step down in the collection is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary. Less complicated than the Solaria, but still one of the top-of-the-line anniversary offerings, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is an entirely new model, rather than an existing model dressed in anniversary livery. The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar combines the self-winding cal. 2160 with a perpetual calendar mechanism, while both the dial and movement get the 270th anniversary-exclusive treatment. Initial thoughts The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is a fairly large but thin watch, with a clean, traditional design with tasteful elaboration. Formal on its face, the watch gets more interesting up close with the anniversary decor on the dial and movement. Overall, the look and feel is elegant; essentially the type of watch that Vacheron Constantin (VC) does well. The execution is high quality and typical of an established, industrial-artisanal brand. The tourbillon bridge and cage stand out as being especially finely finished. Notably, the guilloche on the dial is done the traditional way, on a hand-operated straight-line engine – which is necessary for a watch of this price – while on the entry-level anniversary models the same pattern is achieved via stam...

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Hands-On: a Few Weeks with the James Brand Elko Worn & Wound
Rado 3.50 inches It goes Apr 21, 2025

Hands-On: a Few Weeks with the James Brand Elko

For many pocket-dumping EDCers, the knife has pride of place in one’s kit. Bags are commonly rotated depending on the use-case. You likely wouldn’t bring a hiking rucksack to the office. Watches, too, are usually swapped out daily (and for our crowd… maybe more). However, a good pocket knife can be a consistent staple in one’s everyday carry. Especially one small enough to fit conveniently on your keyring – like the Elko from the James Brand – which I’ve gotten to put through its paces the past few weeks. My love of pocket knives predates my watch collecting interests by over a decade. In fact, getting into the mechanical minutiae of blades likely helped pave my way into the field of horology. I think knives are one of the best tools to keep with you daily, and as a result, I’ve lost more than a handful to unplanned metal detectors and security screening processes. So it goes. Therefore, I’m always looking to increase the size of my collection and have a variety of styles on hand, so I’m never without one close by. My knife collection ranges widely, though I tend to opt for blades that are legal to conceal in Colorado: 3.50 inches. It goes without saying that this measurement changes based on someone’s country and state, so do your own research here. The Elko is well under my state’s legal limit – the blade is a petite 1.74 inches – with a total length, including the handle, of 4.33 inches I was smitten with the Elko from the moment of my unboxi...

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Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Apr 21, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001

Patek Philippe came to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a deep bench of strong new releases, but for fans of the classic Calatrava, the standout was without question the Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001. It’s an easy watch to love, with good proportions, a hefty 38 mm platinum case, a lively “salmon” dial, and is powered by the brand’s latest generation movement. Though the brand was arguably overshadowed this year by its suburban Geneva neighbors Rolex and Vacheron Constantin, at lower and higher ends of the price spectrum, respectively, Patek Philippe demonstrated its ability to deliver in every category, from simple dress and sport watches to mid and high complications. Initial thoughts In February 2017 I was asked what I wished to see from Baselworld that year. I said I’d like to see a successor to the ref. 5196 with a case-filling movement and a large balance. Eight years later, Patek Philippe delivered more or less exactly what I imagined, keeping the proportions and details of the classic Calatrava with a more advanced movement than the outdated cal. 215 that was used at the time. So in a sense, this watch was made for me.  But I had not anticipated a “salmon” dial. Officially labelled “rose-gilt opaline” by Patek Philippe, such dials have become popular among collectors, and are now a staple across the Patek Philippe collection. Naturally, a vivid colour like this helps an otherwise simple watch stand out, but personally I look forward to more toned down iter...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Trematic Archive One 502 Worn & Wound
Apr 20, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Trematic Archive One 502

There’s that moment we all know too well-you’re deep in the rabbit hole of late-night doom scrolling through Instagram’s discovery feed, mindlessly thumbing through the same photos. Then, suddenly, one catches your eye and stops you dead in your tracks. You actually click on the post, you spread the image to zoom in, and then you do the unthinkable and read the caption. That is exactly how I ended up discovering Trematic and this specific model, the Archive One 501. I was completely unfamiliar with the brand, which, when combined with a design language that spoke to me, immediately sparked my curiosity. Specifically, it was the typeface used for the indices. Those quirky, alien-like 4, 6, and 10 markers, cast in rose gold tone, immediately grabbed my attention. They looked like something from a different time, maybe from a different planet, yet the watch overall felt refreshingly modern. A worn-out phrase lately, but the blend of vintage style and contemporary sensibilities didn’t feel tired, which is something I can’t say about many “retro-inspired” designs in the microbrand space. For those who haven’t encountered Trematic, let me give you a quick rundown: the brand dates back to the 1950s but faded into obscurity after the Quartz Crisis, just like many of its contemporaries. In 2022, Daniele Campagnano breathed new life into the brand, seeking to revive its forgotten legacy. The first model to re-enter the market was the Zy6, a watch we recently mentio...

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Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Brown Enamel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Apr 15, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Brown Enamel

One of the most beautiful, albeit not particularly novel, debuts at Watches & Wonders recently was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph with a two-tone grand feu enamel dial in brown and cream. It’s merely a new variant of a longstanding model, but it is striking. Prior versions were in platinum with a black and then blue enamel dial; this is the first model in rose gold and perhaps the first-ever modern-day Patek Philippe with a multi-part, two-tone enamel dial. Design aside, the ref. 5370R retains the same specs and movement as its predecessors. Initial thoughts I usually don’t like brown dials, and the ref. 5370R is merely a cosmetic tweak. The movement remains the same CHR 29-535 PS that is good looking and contains some clever technical features, but its decoration could be a little more artisanal for the price. Overall, the ref. 5370R isn’t fundamentally new. And despite being in rose gold, it’s even more expensive than its predecessors in platinum, with a retail price crossing US$300,000. Being a Patek Philippe, the ref. 5370R is expensive, in the same manner that Ferrari and Hermes can charge more than the competition. But despite so much going against it, the ref. 5370R is one of the few watches that has remained in my memory in the weeks after W&W;. It is simply that beautiful. As the saying goes, if I could, I would. The new ref. 5370 looks classical yet modern, and still captures the old school Patek Philippe aesthetic. The two-ton...

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Hands-on – The Exotic New Rolex GMT-Master II Everose Gold with a Tiger Iron Dial Monochrome
Rolex GMT-Master II Everose Gold Apr 14, 2025

Hands-on – The Exotic New Rolex GMT-Master II Everose Gold with a Tiger Iron Dial

Traditionally, Rolex sports (a.k.a. professional) watches are very often paired with black dials. As for the GMT-Master II, of all references available in the collection – and there are quite a lot of them, in all possible materials except platinum – only the white gold editions have had the privilege of colours: Pepsi with a […]

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Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Take Apr 14, 2025

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA

Take a moment to think about the characteristics that would make the perfect everyday watch; what would you come up with? The list would probably include things like maximum precision, minimum weight, an agreeable size with good ergonomics, and a design that is at home in both formal and casual environments. It also wouldn’t cost a fortune. That might as well have been the design brief for the new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) SLGB001 and SLGB003, which ticks about as many boxes as any single watch can. In fact, just about the worst thing you can say about the UFA is that the design isn’t taking any risks, but that’s the cost of chameleon-like versatility. While the watch is also available in an 80-piece limited edition in platinum (the SLGB001, pictured above), the primary focus of this review will be the more crowd-pleasing titanium version with matching bracelet (the SLGB003), which is a regular production model and priced right. The SLGB003 Initial thoughts Putting it bluntly, the UFA is an absolute spec-sheet monster. If you’re onboard with the idea of a quartz oscillator in an otherwise mechanical watch, there’s very little to nitpick. It’s simply one of the most accurate, wearable, and well-made watches on the market.  In true Grand Seiko style, the UFA is fitted with a nature-inspired dial motif that is modeled on a hillside of frost-covered trees. It’s a fairly abstract representation, which means it will look like d...

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Hands On: Zenith G.F.J., Calibre 135 Revived SJX Watches
Zenith G.F.J Calibre 135 Revived Apr 12, 2025

Hands On: Zenith G.F.J., Calibre 135 Revived

Zenith has finally started to look beyond the El Primero with the G.F.J., which features a new version of the storied chronometer cal. 135. Conceived to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, the G.F.J. moniker is a reference to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, whose initials grace the facade at the manufacture in Le Locle. This new model marks the return of the famous movement phased out about 60 years ago. But production has officially restarted, and the new cal. 135 features modern upgrades that differentiate it from the vintage original used in the Calibre 135 Observatoire introduced in 2022. The “new old stock” cal. 135 that Zenith dusted off for the 2022 edition. Image – Zenith The movement returns to market in a 160-piece limited edition in platinum and features an elaborate blue dial that that is made from lapis lazuli and mother of pearl. For about double the price, owners can request a full platinum bracelet, which endows the watch with impressive heft. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the cal. 135 and wished Zenith would bring it back. That said, I was not convinced by the first stock images I saw of the G.F.J. I felt like the dial was overwrought, and the basketweave pattern on the movement was distracting. Having spent some time with the watch, I would soften my criticism of the dial as it’s more subtle on the wrist and up close the details are finely done. Moreover, subsequent non-anniversary versions will likely have these details toned...

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Hands-on – The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy, now with METAS Movement and More Updates Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Apr 10, 2025

Hands-on – The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy, now with METAS Movement and More Updates

Of all the new releases from Tudor at this year’s Watches and Wonders, the standout piece was undoubtedly the evolution of the Black Bay 58 line, now presented in a striking all-burgundy design, with both the dial and bezel dressed in the deep red tone. While the dial colour holds historical significance, the real game-changer […]

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Hands-on – Some Thoughts about the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, One of the Best in Years Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P One Apr 9, 2025

Hands-on – Some Thoughts about the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, One of the Best in Years

If you ask yourself what’s the most classic dress watch ever made by Patek, and probably one of the most important models of the category, the answer should ultimately be the Calatrava. Not much to debate here. The collection, created in 1932 with the reference 96, has had such an influence on the watch industry […]

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