Hodinkee
Introducing: Grand Seiko's First Mechanical Chronograph, The Tentagraph (Live Pics)
The high-beat watch is the latest edition to the Evolution 9 Collection.
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Hodinkee
The high-beat watch is the latest edition to the Evolution 9 Collection.
Quill & Pad
As GPHG Academy members, GaryG, Joshua Munchow, and Ian Skellern have been asked to nominate watches for consideration in the 2023 GPHG. And while they spend much of our lives immersed in the world of watches, they don’t know of everything out there and there may well be, and are likely to be, gems that they are not aware of. So please send us your suggestions and recommendations for watches in the 15 categories listed.
Hodinkee
Sort of. Either way, this one has got to be the GMT of the winter.
Hodinkee
Three new watches that celebrate the austere beauty of the originals from 1960, now in regular production models.
Worn & Wound
The Timex Marlin at its core, is a dress watch. I’m referring to the first Marlin that comes to mind when you think of this particular model. You know, the one with the 34mm case, hour numerals using a vintage typeface, and an accompanying faux-gator leather strap. Believe it or not, this style of watch was normally worn during any activity back in its day. From working at the office, right into doing household chores during the weekend. Think Don Draper wearing a similarly styled watch while cutting the lawn. Sure we could do the same, but nowadays there’s just way too many good steel sports watches out there for them to just sit on the sidelines while they watch their dressier watchbox mate get all the wrist time. Timex’s latest iteration of their flagship dress watch aims to fill that void in their current Marlin collection by becoming a bit more sportier via a new-look dial. One look at the Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial could have you mistaken for a refined version of your quintessential Timex field watch, but it is in fact a Marlin. The main reason here is the new set of numerals used to demarcate the hours. The collection of numerals are more sizable, much bolder, and a new typeface all together. The font leans into Sans Serif territory and as a result, the numerals look friendlier and playful, while also being more legible at the same time. The natural boldness of this new typeface accentuates the curves of each numeral, especially the unique looking flat top “4...
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Hodinkee
Dial in the clouds and not a care in the world.
Hodinkee
A gift guide for everyone that is also somehow for a very specific type of person.
And my mom's Rolex Yacht-Master started it all.
Hodinkee
By staying true to its original inspiration, our Revival Of The Year made a statement like no other.
Quill & Pad
The last couple of GPHGs were hit by COVID, but the 2022 GPHG was finally again an event and a party as it should be! Tout le monde was in Geneva, celebrating watchmaking at its finest. Here are our thoughts on the winners and how well we did at predicting them.
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Hodinkee
Demonstrating how a shared philosophy about watchmaking can produce different, but complementary, expressions.
Hodinkee
Classic references and thoughtful design keep the Chronomaster in tune.
SJX Watches
The live stream for the GPHG 2022 begins broadcasting on: November 10 at 12:30 pm GMT-5 (New York) November 10 at 6:30 pm GMT+1 (Geneva, Frankfurt) November 11 at 1:30 am GMT+8 (Singapore, Shanghai, Hong Kong)
Quill & Pad
The GPHG Aiguille d'Or is always one of the most difficult prizes to predict, not only because all the watches entered are free to be chosen from, but also because so many are so good. The watch needs to be exceptional to win and it might even be a clock. What does our panel choose?
Quill & Pad
Finally! After years of discussion that clocks should have a place, and some instances of clocks being included in categories that made little sense in 2021, the GPHG has created a category just for mechanical clocks. And, boy, what a complete smorgasbord of mechanical ingenuity! But what to choose?
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Quill & Pad
Watches under 3,500 Swiss francs . . . now it gets interesting. And the competition gets even fiercer. This is the first horological category in which every one of the finalists deserves a place here, and any of them could win. So what did our peanut gallery pick?
Quill & Pad
Two regulators, a chronograph, a Spring Drive classic, a new steel sports watch with a twist on the seconds, and a Nixie tube watch: this is what our peanut gallery must choose a winner from in the Petite Aiguille category, finding the best value under CHF 10,000. A tall order!
Quill & Pad
The 2022 GPHG Artistic Crafts finalists include some unique pieces, some small series pieces, and one comparatively large-volume piece (of 100 examples) by a bigger producer. All are beautiful and rare in their decorations, which include guilloche, engraving, enamel work, miniature painting, wood marquetry, gem setting, and Japanese lacquer work. So how did our peanut gallery vote?
Quill & Pad
We finally arrive at the 2022 GPHG Jewellery category, which is often the most varied in opinion as there is such wide room for taste. Seen among the competing watches are a couple familiar faces, a few bold choices, and even a wild card that might have gotten lost while carrying a pouch full of diamonds through a particle accelerator. What does our peanut gallery think? It's divided.
Hodinkee
The simple SBGX Series lets you 'set it and forget it' for 50 years.
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A smaller Snowflake, just in time for winter.
Quill & Pad
What a pleasure to find a majority of real diver's watches in the GPHG shortlist this year. While they can be worn without any worries behind the desk, as they most likely will be in 99.99 percent of cases, they are also up for some serious diving. Here is what our peanut gallery had to say about the nominees.
Quill & Pad
Is the chronograph still everybody's favorite complication? The brands most certainly think so as a vast number are introduced each year. An the six that are nominated in this category represent the cream of the crop, though our peanut gallery thinks only two are real contenders.
Quill & Pad
Now we are onto the big bad boys of the GPHG. Mechanical Exception is where we put the most mechanically incredible watches head to head, and the name of the game is horological creativity. Aesthetics help but a wild, avant-garde watch can easily win this category because there is no limit. So how does our panel choose?
Quill & Pad
Astronomical complications are poetic in nature, more emotional than practical. Calendar complications are the exact opposite: perfectly practical and useful complications for time management. Since the category doesn’t dictate specifically what should be valued and only outlines what fits into the category, it leaves a lot up to our panel on what we subjectively value more and why in this latest round table of 2022 GPHG nominations.
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