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3,921 articles · 372 videos found · page 73 of 144

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Brown Enamel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Apr 15, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Brown Enamel

One of the most beautiful, albeit not particularly novel, debuts at Watches & Wonders recently was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph with a two-tone grand feu enamel dial in brown and cream. It’s merely a new variant of a longstanding model, but it is striking. Prior versions were in platinum with a black and then blue enamel dial; this is the first model in rose gold and perhaps the first-ever modern-day Patek Philippe with a multi-part, two-tone enamel dial. Design aside, the ref. 5370R retains the same specs and movement as its predecessors. Initial thoughts I usually don’t like brown dials, and the ref. 5370R is merely a cosmetic tweak. The movement remains the same CHR 29-535 PS that is good looking and contains some clever technical features, but its decoration could be a little more artisanal for the price. Overall, the ref. 5370R isn’t fundamentally new. And despite being in rose gold, it’s even more expensive than its predecessors in platinum, with a retail price crossing US$300,000. Being a Patek Philippe, the ref. 5370R is expensive, in the same manner that Ferrari and Hermes can charge more than the competition. But despite so much going against it, the ref. 5370R is one of the few watches that has remained in my memory in the weeks after W&W;. It is simply that beautiful. As the saying goes, if I could, I would. The new ref. 5370 looks classical yet modern, and still captures the old school Patek Philippe aesthetic. The two-ton...

Hands-on – The Exotic New Rolex GMT-Master II Everose Gold with a Tiger Iron Dial Monochrome
Rolex GMT-Master II Everose Gold Apr 14, 2025

Hands-on – The Exotic New Rolex GMT-Master II Everose Gold with a Tiger Iron Dial

Traditionally, Rolex sports (a.k.a. professional) watches are very often paired with black dials. As for the GMT-Master II, of all references available in the collection – and there are quite a lot of them, in all possible materials except platinum – only the white gold editions have had the privilege of colours: Pepsi with a […]

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Take Apr 14, 2025

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA

Take a moment to think about the characteristics that would make the perfect everyday watch; what would you come up with? The list would probably include things like maximum precision, minimum weight, an agreeable size with good ergonomics, and a design that is at home in both formal and casual environments. It also wouldn’t cost a fortune. That might as well have been the design brief for the new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) SLGB001 and SLGB003, which ticks about as many boxes as any single watch can. In fact, just about the worst thing you can say about the UFA is that the design isn’t taking any risks, but that’s the cost of chameleon-like versatility. While the watch is also available in an 80-piece limited edition in platinum (the SLGB001, pictured above), the primary focus of this review will be the more crowd-pleasing titanium version with matching bracelet (the SLGB003), which is a regular production model and priced right. The SLGB003 Initial thoughts Putting it bluntly, the UFA is an absolute spec-sheet monster. If you’re onboard with the idea of a quartz oscillator in an otherwise mechanical watch, there’s very little to nitpick. It’s simply one of the most accurate, wearable, and well-made watches on the market.  In true Grand Seiko style, the UFA is fitted with a nature-inspired dial motif that is modeled on a hillside of frost-covered trees. It’s a fairly abstract representation, which means it will look like d...

Hands On: Zenith G.F.J., Calibre 135 Revived SJX Watches
Zenith G.F.J Calibre 135 Revived Apr 12, 2025

Hands On: Zenith G.F.J., Calibre 135 Revived

Zenith has finally started to look beyond the El Primero with the G.F.J., which features a new version of the storied chronometer cal. 135. Conceived to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, the G.F.J. moniker is a reference to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, whose initials grace the facade at the manufacture in Le Locle. This new model marks the return of the famous movement phased out about 60 years ago. But production has officially restarted, and the new cal. 135 features modern upgrades that differentiate it from the vintage original used in the Calibre 135 Observatoire introduced in 2022. The “new old stock” cal. 135 that Zenith dusted off for the 2022 edition. Image – Zenith The movement returns to market in a 160-piece limited edition in platinum and features an elaborate blue dial that that is made from lapis lazuli and mother of pearl. For about double the price, owners can request a full platinum bracelet, which endows the watch with impressive heft. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the cal. 135 and wished Zenith would bring it back. That said, I was not convinced by the first stock images I saw of the G.F.J. I felt like the dial was overwrought, and the basketweave pattern on the movement was distracting. Having spent some time with the watch, I would soften my criticism of the dial as it’s more subtle on the wrist and up close the details are finely done. Moreover, subsequent non-anniversary versions will likely have these details toned...

Hands-on – The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy, now with METAS Movement and More Updates Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Apr 10, 2025

Hands-on – The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy, now with METAS Movement and More Updates

Of all the new releases from Tudor at this year’s Watches and Wonders, the standout piece was undoubtedly the evolution of the Black Bay 58 line, now presented in a striking all-burgundy design, with both the dial and bezel dressed in the deep red tone. While the dial colour holds historical significance, the real game-changer […]

Hands-on – Some Thoughts about the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, One of the Best in Years Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P One Apr 9, 2025

Hands-on – Some Thoughts about the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, One of the Best in Years

If you ask yourself what’s the most classic dress watch ever made by Patek, and probably one of the most important models of the category, the answer should ultimately be the Calatrava. Not much to debate here. The collection, created in 1932 with the reference 96, has had such an influence on the watch industry […]

Hands-On Impressions of the New Watches from Bremont Worn & Wound
Bremont It’s not Apr 8, 2025

Hands-On Impressions of the New Watches from Bremont

It’s not an exaggeration to say that my meeting with Bremont at this year’s Watches & Wonders was among my most anticipated. For better or worse (probably worse, if you survey watch industry vets, media types, and longtime enthusiasts) Bremont’s output dominated much of the conversation during and after last year’s event. It was the brand’s first Watches & Wonders, and the public unveiling of an entirely new look for the brand. As I’m sure many readers will remember, it did not go over particularly well. But 2025 is a new year, and a new opportunity for Bremont to crystallize in the mind of observers what this new era will be about. Because, to be sure, it will not be like “old” Bremont. That ship has sailed, and while some of the watches introduced this year are in direct conversation with Bremont classics, they are still distinctly their own thing. That’s not a judgement, but it’s the reason why some Bremont loyalists will continue to dismiss the new novelties, even if from a bird’s eye view they appear that they might be a return to form. By the same token, someone like me, who was never really a hardcore Bremont enthusiast to begin with, might see silver linings and positive steps forward for the brand.  This is perhaps a longwinded way of saying that Bremont’s output at Watches & Wonders this year was a mixed bag, but a big improvement over last year. More importantly, regardless of whether you like the watches they debuted at the show, the vi...

Hands-on – The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance Tantalum 39mm and Its Superb Handmade Movement Monochrome
Patek Philippe […] Apr 8, 2025

Hands-on – The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance Tantalum 39mm and Its Superb Handmade Movement

Despite being an experienced watchmaker in his 50s, Nicolas Delaloye remains one of the discreet names in the independent watchmaking scene. But there are good reasons for that. This AHCI member just regained his independence and re-started making watches a few months ago, after a long period serving as a watchmaker-restorer at the Patek Philippe […]

Hands-On: the Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy Worn & Wound
Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy Apr 1, 2025

Hands-On: the Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy

Few watch brands can resist the siren song of a major anniversary as an excuse to release a cool limited edition (or two, or…more). Zenith, of course, is no exception, and this year marks a big milestone: 160 years. We expect that there will be many celebratory watches beyond what’s unveiled this week in Geneva, but out of the gate Zenith is focusing attention on a segment of the catalog that has loomed large for much of their recent history, the chronograph. “El Primero” and “Zenith” are terms that are nearly interchangeable to some, so it makes sense that they’d spend some time leaning into the complication most associated with the brand.  The new Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy is made up of, you guessed it, blue ceramic versions of Zenith’s most important modern chronographs: the Chronomaster Sport, the Defy Skyline Chronograph, and the Pilot Chronograph. Together, these three watches cover much of the ground Zenith has worked in over the past few years, a period of real expansion for the brand where we’ve seen them decisively into watches that feel very contemporary and of the current moment. Zenith has also quietly been one of the great innovators in the subset of ceramic watchmaking, with many colorful and sometimes unexpected ceramic references dotting their entire collection.  Blue ceramic was chosen for this release because of the color’s close association with the brand and its history. According to Zenith, it all stems from Zenith founder...