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Black Bay Tudor

The Tudor heritage diver that revived the brand and references every vintage Submariner.

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All Tudor Black Bay References Tudor

Every Tudor Black Bay: 79220R/B/N, 79230, 79030 BB58, 79830RB Pro, 7939 GMT METAS, S&G, Bronze, Chrono.

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Tudor Gallery Tudor

Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Tudor thread.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Fratello
Longines Oct 12, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx

It’s Sunday morning again, so it’s time to grab a cup of coffee and enjoy another one of our showdowns. Last week, we put two dressier moonphase watches from Longines and Tudor up against each other. This week, we’re staying on the dressier end of the watch-design spectrum. However, we’ll do so with two more […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin just unveiled Oct 1, 2025

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time

On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental La Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor’s first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand’s collection of dress watches. SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will be giving the keynote at Dubai Watch Week, a move that’s largely unprecedented for the industry’s most impenetrable brand. We also chat about the other big news in the world of watch fairs, Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders in 2026. Last but not least, we discuss what Girard-Perregaux’s new movement platform might reveal about the future of the brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

MB&F; Turns to Yinka Ilori for the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’ SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Elements Aug 27, 2025

MB&F; Turns to Yinka Ilori for the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’

The accessibly priced, MB&F;-adjacent wristwatch returns as the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’, a collaboration with Yinka Ilori, a British designer known for applying bright colors to furniture, architecture, and interiors. With three kaleidoscopic colourways – Sun, Nature, and Water – the new M.A.D.1S leans into the maximalist trends of the day, which suits the M.A.D.Editions sub-brand, and MB&F; in general, like a glove. Initial Thoughts I’m reminded of the H. Moser & Cie. Elements of Time we covered just last week. Like with those, the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’ is a series of thematic, limited edition collaborations sold via online raffle. And of the flavours on offer here, my favourite is again the Water variant. Collaborations like this can often feel like a one-way street, but that doesn’t feel like the case here. It’s good to know Yinka Ilori was an active participant in the watch’s design, personally designing the stylised numerals on the hour cylinder. I’ll also point out Mr Ilori is the model in all of these wrist shots. As for my thoughts on his work, I own some tableware he designed a few years back – which sits in my cupboard, seldom used but often admired. “Water” The M.A.D.1 series in general are dubious as a value proposition; though they are very affordable for an MB&F;-ish watch, they are pricey for the segment. But that misses the point – few are cross shopping these with similarly priced offerings from Tudor or Longines, or ev...

Affordable Excellence: How High End Watch Brands are Creating Accessible Options for the Enthusiast Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Aug 12, 2025

Affordable Excellence: How High End Watch Brands are Creating Accessible Options for the Enthusiast

It is a global phenomenon: some of the most exclusive independent watch brands have in the last five years created more accessible and more affordable sister brands or collections. These are undoubtedly linked to the main brand thanks to similar design features and a similar spirit. Just look at MB&F; and its M.A.D.Editions in Switzerland, Grönefeld and Grøne in the Netherlands, and Hajime Asaoka with Kurono Tokyo. Their normal offering is in the tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars, and now their sister brands offer watches for a few thousand – and you don’t have to wait for years to get a watch.  Why are they doing this? What effect does it have on the general perception of the main brand? What are the collectors’ reactions to the more accessible offerings? Occasionally, it goes in the other direction. The Finnish brand Leijona’s Heritage 1907 Collection punches above its weight. It shows that a quartz based, mass market brand can make Swiss Made mechanicals together with a legend like Kari Voutilainen. We’ll get back to that. Just as we’ll get to Swatch’s recent collaborations with its fancier siblings within the Swatch Group. This phenomenon is all but new. Just look at Rolex and Tudor, the latter registered in 1926. “It was exactly the same as what we see today. Rolex founder (Hans) Wilsdorf wanted to offer high-quality watches at more affordable prices,” said watch expert Gianfranco Ritschel. Another example, half a century removed, is Cartie...

Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT $6,900 Jul 22, 2025

Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925

There’s something satisfying about handling a watch that feels like it knows exactly what it is. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 (L3.803.5.53.6) landed on my wrist with that kind of confident presence-not shouting for attention, but quietly competent in the way good tool watches should be. At 39mm with a mix of steel and 18-karat rose gold, it’s Longines’ centennial nod to their 1925 original, the world’s first dual time zone wristwatch. The question isn’t whether it’s historically significant-it obviously is-but whether it actually earns its place in today’s crowded GMT field. Longines, GMT Watches, and the Inevitable Tudor Question Let’s address the elephant in the room: if you’re shopping GMT watches around this price point, you’ve probably looked at the Tudor Black Bay GMT ($4,675). It’s the obvious comparison, sitting at roughly the same price with similar functionality. But where Tudor leans into its diving heritage with a rotating 24-hour bezel, Longines approaches GMT complications from their aviation roots. The Spirit Zulu Time 1925 isn’t trying to be a dive watch that happens to track time zones-it’s purpose-built for travelers and pilots who need to know what time it is “there.” The other natural competitors include the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT ($6,900), the Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer ($3,175), and the NOMOS Zürich Worldtimer ($6,100). But it’s worth noting these watches solve the multi-timezone problem...

Watch Collector’s Week 2025 at Isetan Shinjuku in Tokyo SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Image Jul 4, 2025

Watch Collector’s Week 2025 at Isetan Shinjuku in Tokyo

Perhaps the most storied department store in Japan – and still one of the highest grossing in the entire world – Isetan Shinjuku is staging its annual Watch Collector’s Week from July 2-22, 2025. Being in Japan, where everything is pursued in a serious minded manner, the theme of the event is “Astronomy and Timekeeping”. And in typical Japanese fashion, the event also has an accompanying manga, or Japanese comic book. The event encompasses both watches on show as well as historical displays and talks. Participating brands range from establishment names like A. Lange & Söhne and Tudor to independent watchmakers including H. Moser & Cie. and Ressence. Several brands will debut Isetan-exclusive limited editions, including Grand Seiko and Kudoke. The Christiaan van der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric. Image – Shellman One of the highlights of the event is the exhibit of Shellman, the Tokyo-based independent watch retailer that has concessions in Isetan Shinjuku and other prestigious department stores. Shellman’s display is centred on Christiaan van der Klaauw, the longtime specialist in astronomical watches, as well as Hermle, the German clockmaker that produces various clocks with astronomical displays. A astrolabe on display. Image – Shellman Watch Collector’s Week takes place July 2-22, 2025, at Isetan Shinjuku. Isetan Shinjuku 3-14-1 Shinjuku Shinjuku-ku Tokyo, Japan  

Lesser-Known Dive Watches With Heritage - Featuring Certina, Zenith, Aquastar, And More Fratello
Certina Zenith Aquastar Jun 28, 2025

Lesser-Known Dive Watches With Heritage - Featuring Certina, Zenith, Aquastar, And More

Dive watches are what got me into this hobby. As the proud owner of a Tudor Black Bay 58, I can appreciate as much as anyone the appeal of a good, solid dive watch. Such a timepiece is a good starting point for those just getting into the watch hobby. Why? Well, that’s because it […] Visit Lesser-Known Dive Watches With Heritage - Featuring Certina, Zenith, Aquastar, And More to read the full article.

Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Jun 18, 2025

Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review

The GMT market has changed dramatically in the past seven years. I use that number specifically, because it takes us to 2018, when Tudor brought attainable traveller GMT (independent hour hand functionality) to market in a splashy way. Since then we have seen brands like Longines and Mido continue the work by delivering more options at even better price points. From a general “caller GMT” standpoint, Seiko has knocked it out of the park with models like those within the SSK range. We are living in a GMT moment with more options than ever. But if you took things back just one more year, to 2017, you could argue that it was the year Japan’s Grand Seiko made a mic-dropping value statement by way of the SBGM221, a traveller GMT in a dressier package with elite functionality while delivering value that far outpaces its price point. In 2025, that value proposition has not changed at all. Background:  The DNA of the SBGM221 looks back to the early roots of Grand Seiko in the 1960s to inform its design, but from a modern standpoint more directly can look to the SBGM021 released around 2010. That year is significant because it was the first year the brand arrived in the U.S. market. Aesthetically, the SBGM021 is an illustration of the older style of co-branded Seiko/Grand Seiko fare. Fast forward to 2017, and the watch reaches its completed form. But the 021, with its ivory dial, and general – and honestly quite original – GMT layout is established. You can see the direc...

Popular Watch Brands And Their Most Underrated Watches Teddy Baldassarre
May 23, 2025

Popular Watch Brands And Their Most Underrated Watches

In the world of watches, as with pretty much every niche of consumer goods, brands begin to become associated with the things that receive the most praise and attention. While the hyped watches in question undoubtedly earn the adoration of the masses for many reasons, whether it be their unique historical context, utility, or just plain and simple great looks, there are many other watches that get relegated to the sidelines that deserve another look. Since I personally love to root for an underdog, I wanted to take some time to shine a spotlight on some watches from the big popular watch brands that we know and love that often get lost in the shadows cast by the more popular catalog compatriots. From Rolex and Omega to Tudor and beyond, below you’ll find watches that deserve a little more love than they typically get.  Rolex 1908 I’m beginning with the watch that has quite literally been relegated to the bottom of Rolex’s own website with the Rolex 1908. Given that this is the most dressy model within The Crown’s contemporary collection, I would argue that it's also the watch that flies under the radar the most. The 1908 isn’t something that you spot across the room at a crowded restaurant or at a bar and immediately clock as a Rolex watch, which is ultimately why I find it endearing. It’s something that needs to be appreciated up close and personal. The world's most popular watch brand has made recent attempts to breathe some new life into the Rolex 1908 with...

Dubai Watch Week Returns in November 2025 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Van Cleef & Arpels May 15, 2025

Dubai Watch Week Returns in November 2025

Now a decade old and an established event in the annual horological calendar, Dubai Watch Week (DWW) will take place November 19-23, 2025. Most notably, DWW will move to a new venue, a 200,000 sq ft space next to Dubai Mall, departing its longtime home of the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). The 2025 event will host over 90 brands, ranging from giants like Rolex to micro-brands such as Studio Underd0g. The biggest names will have standalone spaces, including Rolex and Tudor, Audemars Piguet, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Chanel. DWW traditionally took place at DIFC, pictured above But independents will still have a prominent role in the event, since DWW got its start as an indie-centric event. The 2025 edition will give independent brands room to breathe with a dedicated space. Exhiitors include leading independents like Rexhep Rexhepi, Voutilainen, and Roger W. Smith. DWW takes place from November 19-23, 2025 in Burj Park, the landscaped area surrounding the Burj Khalifa and adjacent to Dubai Mall. Entry is free but registration is required. For more, visit Dubaiwatchweek.com.