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Revolution
Grand Seiko’s second wave of watches for their year of celebration includes now the 60th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH002 with new 9SA5 Hi-Beat movement.
Revolution
Grand Seiko turns 60 this year, and it hits the watch industry with a slew of the greatest hits from the brand.
SJX Watches
Having just unveiled the impressive 9SA5 automatic movement in the Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002 as part of its 60th anniversary line-up, Grand Seiko is also rolling out a newly-developed Spring Drive movement – the first with a five-day power reserve and thermocompensation. Unusually, the new calibre is making its debut in a dive watch, the Grand Seiko 600M Professional Diver’s watch (ref. SLGA001). Characterised by large, angular lugs, case design of the new diver is familiar, borrowing from the current Grand Seiko high-frequency dive watches. In short, it’s the typical Grand Seiko diver look, meaning big, bold and chunky, measuring 46.9 mm in diameter and 16 mm high. Both the case and bracelet are made of Seiko’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium, which 30% lighter than steel and more resistant to scratches, so the size of the SLGA001 does not translate into substantial weight. Likewise, the dark blue dial retains the usual Grand Seiko dive watch styling. Legibility is maximised with large hands and hour markers – both with generous amounts of luminous paint. The date display on the new diver is at four o’clock, instead of the usual three o’clock. But the date is not just a relocation – thanks to the new 9RA5 movement, the date disc jumps at a “greatly increased” speed for a crisper changeover. The 9RA5 While the design of the watch contains no surprises, the Spring Drive movement inside is brand new and incorporates several features originally...
SJX Watches
Sometimes known as the “3180” after the movement inside, the very first Grand Seiko model of 1960 is an indisputably important watch in the history of the brand. Unsurprisingly, the first Grand Seiko has been remade on several occasions as commemorative limited editions. For the 60th anniversary of Grand Seiko, a “re-creation” of the first Grand Seiko is being added to the regular collection – including a surprising version with a titanium case. With reissues of the 3180 having been done for the 120th and 130th anniversary of Seiko, and most recently in 2017 when Grand Seiko was spun off as an independent brand, the 3180 remake is now on its fourth iteration, making it pretty familiar. The latest remakes might not please anyone who owns the preceding editions, but for anyone who missed out they are spot on. But the new re-creation is distinct in several ways. The case is 38 mm, larger than the 35 mm original, and identical to the 2017 edition. More notably, it has a sapphire case back, a first for a 3180 remake. The 9S64 visible through the display back Three versions are available, each distinguished in material and dial colour but also in more subtle details. The top-of-the-line model is the platinum re-creation SBGW257. This has a solid gold dial matched with solid gold hour markers, as well as an engraved logo at 12 o’clock, a detail inspired by the dials of early 3180s. Because of the precious metal dial, it has a small star at above six o’clock, which ...
SJX Watches
Twenty-twenty marks the 60th year of Grand Seiko and the brand is pulling no punches with its high-end commemorative editions. Dedicated to Grand Seiko’s workshop in the town of Shizukuishi, the 60th anniversary pair of Elegance Collection Thin Dress watches both feature decorative engraving, but executed by hand and machine respectively. Located in the northern province of Iwate, Shizukuishi is a small town surrounded by mountains, including the imposing Mount Iwate, which is an active volcano. The town is home to the Shizukuishi Watch Studio, where the best mechanical Grand Seiko watches are produced (Spring Drive watches, on the other hand, are produced at Seiko-Epson’s facility in Shiojiri in Nagano province). Elegance Collection ’60th Anniversary’ hand-engraved SBGW263 (left) and machine-engraved SBGW264 Shizukuishi, or しずく いし, translates literally as “water droplet on stone” – shizuku is “droplet” and ishi means “stone”. Legend has it that the town was founded a millennia ago when an old man living in the area heard the sound of dripping water, which originated in a cave where water from the ceiling was dripping onto the rocks below. The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Thin Dress ’60th Anniversary’ Hand Engraved (ref. SBGW263) is a nod to the ancient origin story. It featured a solid gold dial hand engraved with a motif inspired by the town’s founding. Made entirely of 18k white gold, the dial is comprised of three parts – bas...
SJX Watches
Seiko has been on a hot streak with its remakes of vintage dive watches, including the Hi-Beat 6159 of 2018 and last year’s “Turtle” 6105. With 2020 being the 55th anniversary of its first dive watch, Seiko is reissuing three of its most well-liked vintage dive watches, the Hi-Beat 6215, the 62MAS 6217, and the “Tuna” 6159. All three remakes features notable upgrades, including the use of a new alloy named Ever-Brilliant Steel that is notably corrosion resistant. (And for those on a less-ambitious budget, the line-up also includes an affordable 62MAS remake – see this at the bottom of the story.) The vintage originals (from left): Hi-Beat 6215, the 62MAS 6217, and the “Tuna” 6159 Used for the first time in watchmaking according to Seiko, Ever-Brilliant Steel has a more silvery appearance than the steel alloy most commonly used in watchmaking – 316L or “surgical steel” – but more crucially, the alloy has better corrosion resistant. Specifically, Seiko says Ever-Brilliant Steel has a pitting resistance equivalent number (PREN) of 1.7 times 316L steel. With 316L steel having a PREN of around 25, Ever-Brilliant Steel should surpass 40 – usually the benchmark for materials uses for marine applications. The Ever-Brilliant Steel case of the SLA037 The 1965 Diver’s Re-creation “62MAS” (ref. SLA037 or SBEX009) is a remake of Seiko’s first ever dive watch. Measuring 39.9 mm by 14.7 mm, the case is larger than the original, and of course made from Ev...
SJX Watches
For its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko has just unveiled one of the most extravagant, and expensive, watches ever – the Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch (ref. SBGD205). Combining the flagship Spring Drive model – made at the artisanal Micro Artist Studio – with a lavish setting of diamonds and sapphires, the Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch is a departure from the typical, subtle formality of Grand Seiko design. The base of the Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch is the SBGD201, an immense, heavy and refined wristwatch powered by the impressive 9R01 movement. Equipped with three barrels that give it a 192-hour power reserve, the 9R01 is finished to the same level as the much-vaunted Credor Eichi II, thought the massive full bridge means there are few details visible on the back. The dial of the watch is unusual. Though Grand Seiko (and Seiko) have always produced jewelled watches for women, this is probably the first heavily gem-set men’s model in a long time. The centre of the dial has a granular, slightly sparkly “dial dust” finish that is identical to the dial finish on the standard Grand Seiko 8 Days. But it has a subtle constellation of Leo – the Grand Seiko emblem is a lion – incorporated into the surface of the dial and visible only up close. Around the diamond-dust centre are two white gold chapter rings, one set with large, baguette-cut stones and the other with smaller, brilliant-cut stone. Each of the hours and ...
SJX Watches
Of the half-dozen commemorative editions Grand Seiko is rolling out to mark its 60th anniversary, one watch is significant over all the others, because it has a brand-new calibre that represents the first of a new generation of movements. A complete rethink of the 9S family of movements – first unveiled 22 years ago – the 9SA5 makes its debut in the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition (ref. SLGH002). While the movement is cutting-edge for the brand, the design of the SLGH002 is a throwback to vintage Grand Seiko – the dial emulates the aesthetics of the first Grand Seiko 3180 of 1960 but with a modern twist, namely with widened hands and hour markers. As a result, the dial is quintessential Grand Seiko, having a sculptural quality thanks to the broad dauphine hands and substantial, applied 18k gold hour markers. Even the frame around the date window is 18k gold. The star above six o’clock indicates “SD”, or “special dial”, which means gold hour markers (and sometimes a gold dial) Made of 18k yellow gold, the case has a diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of 11.7 mm. Most of its surfaces have a brushed finish, interspersed with wide, faceted bevels that are mirror polished. The watch is notably thin for a self-winding Grand Seiko – the typical high-frequency Grand Seiko has a case just over 13 mm high – as a result of the new 9SA5 movement, which is the work of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi (formerly known as the Shizukuishi Watch Studio). ...
Revolution
While the true beauty of mechanical timepieces is almost always on the inside, Blancpain’s métiers d’art collection makes a compelling case otherwise.
Time+Tide
“To boldly go where no man has gone before …” For most people, that’s just a hackneyed line from Star Trek. For Victor Vescovo, it’s become a personal mission. Put simply, the American private equity investor is hell-bent on pushing his limits. He’s the first man to have reached the deepest points of four of the … ContinuedThe post Why I rely on mechanical watches in the most extreme environments known to man: Victor Vescovo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Two years ago, Urwerk unveiled the UR-111C, inspired by the UR-CC1 King Cobra of 2009, which was itself based on an experimental watch built by watchmaker Louis Cottier and jeweller Gilbert Albert for Patek Philippe in 1959. Displaying the time in a linear fashion, the UR-111C marked a departure from the wandering-hour satellite indication that has become the hallmark of Urwerk’s aggressively futuristic watches. Having already presented four variants of the watch in various finishes, as well as an engraved unique piece, the brand has now unveiled the UR-111C Two-Tone, featuring a case that combines a black coating with brushed and polished steel. The central portion of the case is executed in brushed steel, flanked by black-coated ends that close off the tube-like central portion. The use of different finishes accentuates the architecture of the case, drawing attention to its centre, which contains the key functions, including the time display and roller-style crown. Cosmetics aside, the UR-111C Two-Tone is otherwise identical to the earlier versions. At 42 mm by 46 mm and 15 mm high at its thickest point, it is by no means a small watch but the curvature of the case ensures it sits flat and comfortably on the wrist. Despite its complex design, time is presented in a fairly straightforward manner with three rounded sapphire windows located at the front edge of the case to facilitate better readability while driving. The jumping hours and progressive minutes are displaye...
Revolution
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Quill & Pad
What makes an enamel dial so magical? That is the question Martin Green asked himself when presented with the new version of the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique with a blue oven-fired enamel dial that Breguet recently launched. You may enjoy the answer he came up with.
Revolution
Old meets new in the latest collaborative effort from Massena LAB and Unimatic.
Deployant
In the spirit of 'better late than never', we bring you the low-down and our thoughts on the Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire in white gold from 2016.
Revolution
The iconic Portugieser Chronograph from IWC gets the automatic in-house Cal. 69355 in regular series production, and a display caseback to show it off.
SJX Watches
Founded two years ago, the Qatar Watch Club (QWC) is a community of internet-savvy watch enthusiasts in the wealthy Arab nation. The club recently got together with Tudor and local watch retailer Fifty One East to create the Pelagos “Qatar Watch Club”, a limited edition of the brand’s top-spec dive watch. The second QWC edition after last year’s Chopard L.U.C GMT, the Pelagos has “Qatar” in Arabic, or “قطر”, on the dial at six, replacing the five lines of text on the standard model, giving it a much cleaner look. The other point of distinction is the club logo engraved on the case back. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard model, which means a titanium case rated to 500 m and a scratch-resistant, blue-ceramic bezel insert. And the watch is equipped with the MT5612 movement. A proprietary calibre produced by Kenissi, a joint venture Tudor shares with Chanel, the calibre has a 70-hour power reserve, silicon hairspring, and is an all-round strong performer, particularly at this price point. The watch is delivered in a box bearing the QWC logo, as well as an additional blue rubber strap. Only 50 were produced – the club has 50 members – and at press time all have been spoken for. QWC members at last year’s launch event for the Chopard L.U.C GMT QWC edition. Photo – QWC Key facts Tudor Pelagos Qatar Watch Club Special Edition Ref. M25600TB-0001 Diameter: 42 mm Thickness: 14.3 mm Material: Titanium Water resistance: 500 m Movement:...
Quill & Pad
RJ Watches - formerly known as Romain Jérôme - has declared bankruptcy with immediate effect. Elizabeth Doerr takes a brief look at the 16-year run of this quirky boutique brand, its design-focused existence having formed an interesting tribute to the power (and limits) of marketing.
Revolution
Chanel introduces the world’s first bi-color ceramic timepieces with the J12 Paradoxe and Paradoxe Diamonds.
Hodinkee
You need answers. The boys are here to help.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Learn how the Longines Heritage Classic Sector helped TBWS Junior Contributor Aggressive Timing Habits overcome his horological hydrophobia in this watch review!
Revolution
Launched in 2018 in two versions of 25 pieces, one in polished steel version and the other one in gunmetal finish, the Urwerk UR-111C now comes in a two-tone version made of black PVD and brushed steel.
Revolution
In the pantheon of emblematic sports chronographs, it’s the Zenith El Primero Ref. A3818 “Cover Girl” that inflames desire to the extreme.
Time+Tide
It’s a new segment. It’s called Battle Royale. Someone nominates a collection, and we fight to the death for our favourite from said collection until there is one opinion standing. Well, not really. That would be bloody, time-consuming, fairly hard to adjudicate and likely to upset HR. So, why don’t we just make our case … ContinuedThe post Battle Royale: The T+T Team debate which is the best modern-day Rolex Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The duo will discuss resonance in horology, as well as its discovery, development and modern interpretations.
Deployant
We pit two superb ultra-thin watches, the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 and Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950, against each other to see which one comes out on top.
Time+Tide
A few days ago, we uploaded a photo of the Zenith Defy Classic Ref.95.9000.670/51.R790 and asked our 120,000 followers this question: “Is the Zenith Classic underrated?” The response was resoundingly confirmative, with many people opining that not only the Defy Classic but the Defy range in general was, more often than not, overlooked and it shouldn’t … ContinuedThe post We asked you if the Zenith Defy was underrated, and this is what you said appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
For 2020, MB&F; announces two new limited editions of the LM FlyingT – in red gold and platinum, without diamonds, both limited editions of 18 pieces each.
Revolution
The story of how two friends and master watchmakers, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and Roger Dubuis, gave the world its first bi-retrograde perpetual calendar.
SJX Watches
George Daniels’ contributions to horology, as a watchmaker, historian and educator, were multi-dimensional. Most are widely known, and his watches are now incredibly valuable. But one of his creations – the “Unfinished Daniels” – remains tantalisingly incomplete, residing in the Clockmakers’ Museum within London’s Science Museum (which is also now home to Daniels’ Space Traveller II pocket watch). Even though he completed only a small number of watches – 23 pocket watches and four wristwatches made by hand, along with the serially-produced Millennium watches – Daniels’ inventions, techniques and philosophy have been deeply influential. His successor Roger W. Smith now practices the Daniels method with his own hand-made watches, but other notable watchmakers, including Francois-Paul Journe, have cited Daniels as an inspiration. The unfinished Daniels movement in the George Daniels exhibit in the Clockmakers’ Museum. Photo – Science Museum Like many great watchmakers over the ages, Daniels’ pursued perfect chronometry throughout his career; inventing a novel, superior escapement was perhaps his greatest achievement. And he managed to do it twice. Having observed that the sliding friction in the conventional Swiss lever escapement affects the rate of a movement over time, he set about developing solutions. He invented two escapement types: one inspired by a 18th century Abraham-Louis Breguet idea, while the other was the entirely original and mo...
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