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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Watches And Culture Watch Forum 2022 On Sustainability Kicks Off With Screening Of ‘Bigger Than Us’ By Flore Vasseur Quill & Pad
Sep 16, 2022

Watches And Culture Watch Forum 2022 On Sustainability Kicks Off With Screening Of ‘Bigger Than Us’ By Flore Vasseur

The first Watches and Culture Watch Forum to take place since 2018 kicked off with one of the most emotional pieces of filmmaking Elizabeth Doerr has perhaps ever seen: 'Bigger Than Us,' a documentary by the captivating French writer and filmmaker Flore Vasseur, which explores the (non-) survival of our planet through the stories of seven young people who became activists in seven different areas as early as the age of six.

Longines HydroConquest Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Sep 16, 2022

Longines HydroConquest Buyer's Guide

The Longines HydroConquest features a boldly contemporary design and a sturdy, water-resistant construction that have made it one of the most popular dive watches in its sport-luxury price segment. Since its debut in 2007, the Longines HydroConquest has expanded into a versatile collection with an array of sizes, colorways, and materials to appeal to a wide audience of dive watch enthusiasts. Here are seven things to know if you're looking at adding a Longines HydroConquest watch to your collection. The Longines HydroConquest has its roots in Longines’ very first named collection from 1954. Longines, which derives its name from “les longines,” aka “the long meadows” that surround the Swiss village of Saint-Imier where it was founded, has been making timepieces since 1832. It wasn’t until 1954, however, that Longines began engaging in the modern marketing practice of introducing product families with distinctive names. “Conquest” was the first such name to be registered, on April 3, 1954, with the Swiss Register of Intellectual Property. The original Longines Conquest (reproduced above) was designed as one of the first generation of “modern” wristwatches, i.e., equipped with a highly accurate automatic movement and a water-resistant case that also protected the movement from magnetism and shocks.  Despite its utilitarian elements, the original Conquest was undeniably a dress watch, with a very modest 35mm case; a clean, minimalist dial; applied diamond...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zenith goes pink for breast cancer, Westime thrills Richard Mille fans in the US Time+Tide
Richard Mille fans Sep 16, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zenith goes pink for breast cancer, Westime thrills Richard Mille fans in the US

When the Zenith Chronmaster Revival went pink for the Pink Dial Project Auction, many bidders were excited at the prospect of winning such a vibrant piece unique. Sadly, this meant many missed out – until now. In a manner that allows more people to have a pink-dialled Zenith watch, while protecting the integrity of the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zenith goes pink for breast cancer, Westime thrills Richard Mille fans in the US appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

George Clooney and Hyun Bin showcase the Omega Speedmaster ’57 Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster ’57 Omega have Sep 15, 2022

George Clooney and Hyun Bin showcase the Omega Speedmaster ’57

Omega have been at the forefront of vintage-inspired sports watches for quite some time, and the latest revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ‘57 shows what a great place watchmaking is in right now. We seem to have made it through the onslaught of strait-laced vintage reissues, and now their evolutions featuring daring and creative dials … ContinuedThe post George Clooney and Hyun Bin showcase the Omega Speedmaster ’57 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes in Geneva Gem-Setting Giant SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes Sep 14, 2022

Business News: Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes in Geneva Gem-Setting Giant

Little know outside the industry but a key supplier to the biggest watch brands, Salanitro S.A. is Switzerland’s biggest gem-setting and jewellery specialist catering to watchmakers. Owned by its namesake founder until now, Salanitro now counts Patek Philippe as a shareholder. Founded three decades ago by Pierre Salanitro, the company is located a Geneva suburb not far from Rolex headquarters. A discreet but well-connected individual, Mr Salanitro built his company both organically and through acquisitions, creating an enterprise that’s the preeminent jewellery and gem-setting specialist for the watch industry. Today Salanitro far exceeds the competition in scale with annual revenue in the high nine figures and over 230 employees, more than half of them gem-setters. The company covers all the bases when it comes to jewelled watches: it supplies, cuts, and sets gemstones, and also produces components with the three dozen CNC mills on its premises. Gem-setters at work in Salanitro’s facility. Image – Salanitro The art of gem-setting is a manual process that requires deft hands. Image – Salanitro Mr Salanitro’s three children have no involvement in the business, explaining his desire to seek a strategic investor.  “I am very proud and delighted that Patek Philippe has acquired a stake in my company,” says Mr Salanitro, “[The brand is] the ideal partner for securing the firm’s future… [and] continue our activities and guarantee jobs beyond generations....

Business News: Grand Seiko Inaugurates Asia-Pacific Arm SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Inaugurates Asia-Pacific Arm Having Sep 14, 2022

Business News: Grand Seiko Inaugurates Asia-Pacific Arm

Having enjoyed several years of double-digit growth in its biggest markets outside of Japan, Grand Seiko is continuing to hone a marketing and distribution strategy inspired by its Swiss peers. One of the key planks of its brand development has been to vertically integrate its sales channels, with Asia being the latest to join the mothership. Headquartered in Singapore, Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific is a newly established entity that will take charge of sales and marketing of the brand in the region. Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific becomes the company’s third regional subsidiary, after those covering Americas and Europe, both amongst the brand’s most important markets outside of Japan. The Grand Seiko boutique in Place Vendome, Paris The Asia-Pacific division of Grand Seiko no doubt develop the brand along similar lines as its counterparts in Europe and the United States. The senior managers in both the Americas and Europe are Omega alumni, with the head of the American operations also being the brand’s Global Strategy Officer. Unsurprisingly, Grand Seiko has embarked on a game plan centred on brand boutiques in upscale locations as well as limited edition models, mirroring the familiar approach utilised by many of its Swiss rivals. The newly-established Asia-Pacific operation is a joint venture between Seiko Watch Corporation and Thong Sia, the Hong Kong-based company that was the longtime Asian distributor for Grand Seiko (as well as other Seiko brands). It is chaired by Ak...

INTRODUCING: The Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Collection Time+Tide
Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Sep 14, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Collection

Few celebrities hold such strong sway in the public consciousness as the Chairman of the Board, Frank Sinatra. Having dominated both music and film throughout the 1940s to ‘60s, Sinatra’s legacy is firmly cemented through his lasting works as well as his eternal style and demeanour, the latter of which Bulova have captured within the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Study: Your smartwatch is “more dirty than a toilet seat“ and covered in dangerous germs    Time+Tide
Sep 11, 2022

Study: Your smartwatch is “more dirty than a toilet seat“ and covered in dangerous germs  

See that Apple Watch fastened to your wrist? Well, it may well be a masterful piece of technology that tracks your steps, buzzes you notifications and locates that missing iPhone you drunkenly left in that bar. But according to Dr Lotti Tajouri, Associate Professor of Genomics and Molecular Biology at Bond University on the Gold … ContinuedThe post Study: Your smartwatch is “more dirty than a toilet seat“ and covered in dangerous germs   appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon: Featuring A Flying Tourbillon Orbited By ‘Vortex’ Display Disks And A Joystick Controlling Time – Reprise Quill & Pad
Vanguart Sep 11, 2022

Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon: Featuring A Flying Tourbillon Orbited By ‘Vortex’ Display Disks And A Joystick Controlling Time – Reprise

The Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon concept is based on the concept of a black hole, a region of spacetime where gravity is so strong that nothing can escape, even light. While that and the levitating flying tourbillon that emerges from the center of this watch might be enough to wow anyone, there's still more: a joystick that controls the direction of time and this watch's great looks.

Why I Bought It: Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 Triple Calendar – Reprise Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Sep 11, 2022

Why I Bought It: Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 Triple Calendar – Reprise

Oh, those Geneva auctions! While GaryG's intention is usually to browse the rare pieces on offer, gain an education from his auction-house friends and escape unscathed, it seems that more often than not there is a piece that puts him into bidding mode. And sometimes that piece is entirely unanticipated as was the case of the Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 triple calendar that he stumbled across at a Sotheby’s preview. Here is why he bought it.

Sex, biceps and watch choices – how your wrist size affects your life Time+Tide
Sep 11, 2022

Sex, biceps and watch choices – how your wrist size affects your life

There’s a famous Bond scene in Octopussy where Roger Moore’s 007, clad in his customary white tuxedo, sits down to play a spot of high-stakes backgammon. His adversary – the malevolent Kamal Khan – is surreptitiously cheating, using a set of loaded dice. Unfazed, Bond accepts Khan’s 200,000 rupee wager and, using a Fabergé egg … ContinuedThe post Sex, biceps and watch choices – how your wrist size affects your life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking – Reprise Quill & Pad
Sep 10, 2022

The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking – Reprise

Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.

INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Stradale Time+Tide
Sep 10, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Stradale

The young French microbrand Depancel are back with their fourth instalment in their Serie-A collection, this time honing in on a much more retro look. Their previous release, the Serie-A Allure, blended the worlds of vintage and modern well, with some of their other watches leaning even more heavily into the futuristic. The Depancel Serie-A … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Stradale appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Zach picks his 5 favourite recent watch releases Time+Tide
Sep 10, 2022

VIDEO: Zach picks his 5 favourite recent watch releases

A lot of watches have been released recently. So to assemble my favourites, there was a lot of ground to cover, specs to take in and wrist-shots to snap.  With so many options to consider, in order to pick my top five, I really needed to take some time to digest. But Labor Day has … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Zach picks his 5 favourite recent watch releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Guide Teddy Baldassarre
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 9, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Guide

The Lange 1 from German luxury watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne is an internationally recognized icon of modern watchmaking and the undisputed flagship of the Glashütte-based manufacture’s collection. And even though the Lange 1 has only been on the scene since 1994, the watch, and the company that makes it, trace their roots much further into history. From the pioneering watchmaker who jump-started a national industry in the 19th century, to his descendant that forged a new beginning for his family business in the 20th, to the evolution of a legendary watch into new and complex forms in the 21st, this the story of A. Lange & Söhne and the Lange 1. Ferdinand Adolph Lange & the Rebirth of Glashütte Few in the long history of watchmaking have had a more profound and lasting impact on a nation’s horological destiny than Ferdinand Adolph Lange had on that of Germany, whose industry is famously rooted in the town of Glashütte in Saxony. It was Lange (1815 - 1875), a native of nearby Dresden and a classically trained master watchmaker, who laid the foundations on which the struggling former mining town would build itself into Germany’s watchmaking center with the establishment of the original A. Lange & Cie. manufactory in 1845. Lange’s vision was not just for his own company but for the entire state of Saxony. When the apprentices that trained at his company had mastered their craft, he encouraged them to start their own factories and hire and train their own employees...

Royal standard: The Queen’s life in watches Time+Tide
Sep 9, 2022

Royal standard: The Queen’s life in watches

So Queen Elizabeth II is dead. And whether you’re a republican or a royalist, it’s hard to remain totally unaffected by the sudden departure of arguably the most famous person on the planet. In England, the Queen was a benign fixture, a symbol of reassuring constancy in a world of change. What she embodied was … ContinuedThe post Royal standard: The Queen’s life in watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hanhart fully embraces #FliegerFriday with the Night Pilot Time+Tide
Sep 9, 2022

Hanhart fully embraces #FliegerFriday with the Night Pilot

Function over form is the ethos of a tool watch, especially a pilot’s one. By extension, the pieces that manage to combine the two in a unique way are few and far between – and the new Hanhart #FliegerFriday Night Pilot happens to be one of them. Full-lume dials are often well-received at the T+T … ContinuedThe post Hanhart fully embraces #FliegerFriday with the Night Pilot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaquet Droz Introduces the Dragon Automaton SJX Watches
Zodiac Sep 8, 2022

Jaquet Droz Introduces the Dragon Automaton

Already a prolific maker of wristwatches with tiny, intricate automatons – with tropical birds and magic lotus being part of its repertoire – Jaquet Droz has turned to the realm of Middle Earth for its latest creation. Featuring an automaton with nine mechanical animations, the Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton was designed by Canadian illustrator John Howe. When it comes to dragons and fantasy lands, Mr Howe’s credentials are impeccable. Amongst his past roles was one of the two chief designers of The Lord of the Rings trilogy. And aside from the Dragon Automaton, another of Mr Howe’s most recent works was designing The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power, the Amazon production that’s the most expensive television series in history. Initial thoughts Dragons are a common theme on watches, but usually of the East Asian kind and typically in the Year of the Dragon of the Chinese Zodiac – a simple reflection of where most demand for luxury watches originates. A dragon of the European fantasy genre is less common; in fact, I cannot recall another watch that depicts themes from the fantasy genre. This makes the Dragon Automaton unique, both figuratively and literally. The motif is usual and esoteric so its appeal will certainly be niche at best. This version has an onyx dial with a hand-engraved dragon sculpture set against a similarly engraved mountain backdrop – the aesthetic is entirely The Lord of the Rings But that is exactly the point, since each Dragon Automa...

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Sep 8, 2022

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition

A “concept” store for high-end watches when it first opened in 2005, Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) closed its original location in the now-closed Hilton hotel in 2019. Three years on, Singapore retailer Sincere is reviving SHH at the city state’s landmark casino resort. To commemorate the event, SHH has unveiled several limited editions created in collaboration with independent watchmakers led by the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition. A watch with twin balance wheels linked by a differential, the SHH edition is housed in the streamlined “Convexe” case that defines the Greubel Forsey’s sports watches. But unlike the brand’s sports watches to date, this is striking in an ultra-contemporary purple livery that’s uncommon for such a complicated watch. The rationale behind the juxtaposition of bold colours and refined complications is straightforward according to Sincere chief executive Ong Ban. “For the new generation, watches go with their dress and the younger ones want… [watches] that go with sneakers or hoodies,” explains Mr Ong, “But while the cosmetics evolve over the years, but the essence of finely executed movements remains the same.” Even the titanium main plate of the movement is finished in purple Initial thoughts The new Double Balancier is a haute horlogerie sports watch in an eye-catching colour and the requisite integrated strap that will no doubt draw a new audience to the brand. While Greubel Forsey (GF) wat...