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New with Hands-on: MB&F; LM Sequential Flyback
MB&F; enhanced their innovative LM Sequential chronograph with a flyback system and an anbled hour minute dial. Presented in a platinum case.
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Deployant
MB&F; enhanced their innovative LM Sequential chronograph with a flyback system and an anbled hour minute dial. Presented in a platinum case.
SJX Watches
In 2022 MB&F; launched its first ever chronograph, the LM Sequential EVO. A twin-chronograph constructed by Stephen McDonnell, it was a clever reinterpretation of the split-seconds function. Today MB&F; upgrades the concept with the LM Sequential Flyback Platinum that boasts a revised movement incorporating an additional flyback function. Initial thoughts The LM Sequential Flyback is certainly polarising in terms of style and technique, like most MB&F; creations. The original Sequential EVO was praised for its exceptional and creative movement construction, though the utility of the twin chronograph was debated. The LM Sequential Flyback now adds a flyback function to the package, which may seem excessive. But that misses the point: the question of utility needn’t be answered nor asked. Such a timepiece goes far past the realm of practicality and needs to be judged simply by what it is: an incredible concept painstakingly executed. We already explored in detail how Mr McDonnell implemented the Twinverter system of double chronographs mechanisms while making the complex movement chronometrically-potent, despite the obvious challenges. I recommend reading the original story, as it thoroughly explains the beautiful mechanical subtleties of the watch. In the original Sequential EVO, the layered and complex construction of the movement meant the flyback function couldn’t be reliably implemented. Mr McDonnell ultimately dropped the idea and focused on perfecting the rest of t...
SJX Watches
IWC just revealed an experimental Pilot’s chronograph with a luminous ceramic case – on the wrist of Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton at the Monaco Grand Prix. Christened Ceralume, the material was developed XPL, the watchmaker’s experimental engineering department. According to IWC, the Ceralume concept watch was glowing a bright blue for more than 24 hours in dark chamber tests (although it didn’t state how the material was “charged” prior to the test). According to IWC, the patent-pending material is created by blending ceramic powder with Super-Luminova, the luminous material produced by RC Tritec that absorbs light energy and then emits it. Being non-radioactive, Super-Luminova is widely used to illuminate watch dials, and also suited to a case material. Though IWC has not revealed specifics about future plans for the material, it did say Ceralume will “form the foundation of future developments and releases.” Lewis Hamilton at the 2024 Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix Initial thoughts Ever since the discovery of radium in 1898, luminous materials have become commonplace in watches, primarily to aid legibility. With legibility being less crucial today, luminous paint is increasingly used for purely aesthetic purposes. Moreover, luminous ceramic is not actually new. Tudor, for instance, used luminous ceramic hour markers in the Black Bay Pro of 2022. IWC is the first to make an entire case from the material, albeit not one that is available commercially (ye...
Fratello
It’s time to chime in on the best watches under €2,500. It’s a tough subject for a couple of reasons. First, many of my colleagues have already opined and used up some great picks. Second, this price level now feels like a no man’s land because most brands prefer to play above or below it. […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Mike’s Picks From Seiko, Ming, Oak & Oscar, And Longines to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Antoine Simonin (1938-2024), who died on May 20 at the age of 84, left his mark on generations of watchmakers and watchmaking enthusiasts. He will be best remembered as the director of WOSTEP (Watches Of Switzerland Training Educational Program) from 1976 to 2003. Simonin was a person obsessed with the transmission of watchmaking knowledge, and sought to make WOSTEP an instrument for the international dissemination of watchmaking mastery. Founded in 1966, WOSTEP sought to train watchmakers capable of maintaining and repairing Swiss-made watches according to the standards laid out by their makers, the Swiss watch industry. Over time, its courses have been taught in English, French, German, Japanese, Swedish, and Mandarin. “I studied at WOSTEP under Antoine Simonin in 1987 and 1991,” says Peter Speake, the watchmaker best known for founding Speake-Marin, “He was instrumental in keeping WOSTEP going during that difficult industry period, subsequently influencing the careers and friendships of many watchmakers, directly and indirectly, playing a significant role in the lives of many crossing multiple generations.” Recounts another student, Paul Francis Madden, now himself an instructor at WOSTEP, “I was a student in 1987, back when the staff at WOSTEP was only Mr Simonin and his wife Josiane… It came to showing him my first hairspring… He slowly spun my balance wheel in his callipers, scrutinising it for what seemed like an eternity, and all without saying a sing...
Fratello
Life on Mars is around the corner. That is what some science-fiction movies are telling us, at least. The people who are properly interested in the story know much must be done to make that a reality. But plenty of scientific initiatives are researching life on the Red Planet. If you are a fan of […] Visit Hands-On With The Fortis Novonaut AMADEE-24 Mars Analog Mission Timer to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross is continuing to fill out their updated BR 03 collection with new references to accommodate the subtly smaller case they introduced last year. Brad Homes went hands-on with the new, more refined case right here, and found the differences to be small, but an overall improvement. It’s important not to underestimate either the scope of the change for Bell & Ross or the potential impact small adjustments can have on a watch case, particularly when you’re dealing with a square design like the BR 03. Bell & Ross fans (I’m raising my hand here) have strong feelings about their iconic square case designs, so any small adjustment is going to be met with the kind of intense critique that can only come from an enthusiast community. It seems, though, that the updates have been well received, and the latest addition, the BR 03 White Steel & Gold, brings a very different flavor to traditional tool watch design. The stated goal of the White Steel & Gold reference is to bring a more sophisticated look to the BR 03 line, one that is, in Bell & Ross terms, “both urban and elegant.” While we still have the vague outline of an aviation inspired tool watch, the details come from an entirely different place. The bezel is rendered in rose gold, and the crisp opaline dial has matching gold tone accents. While the gold is likely the design characteristic that will draw most to the watch initially, the dial appears to have a very fine texture and character to it that could w...
Monochrome
Scandinavian design is often laureled for its simplicity and functionality, but in watches, that doesn’t always seem to stick. Finnish independent watchmaking stars like Stepan Sarpaneva are mostly known for more intricate and expressive watches with striking appearances. Stemming from “the land of a thousand lakes” now comes a new brand, that on surface seems […]
Worn & Wound
Growing up in the late ‘90s and early ‘00s, there were plenty of things I missed out on. I was too late to see the Rangers win the Stanley Cup, was rarely allowed to sit in rear-facing seats in the back of a car, and Nickelodeon’s Legends of the Hidden Temple was in re-runs before I was old enough to compete. According to my parents, I also missed out on one of the great toys of their youth - quicksilver. Growing up, they would often tell stories of cracking open a thermometer to play with the mysterious liquid metal inside, before making it very clear that the element also known as mercury was strictly off-limits. Now, thanks to a collaboration between Revolution and Isotope, we all have the opportunity to re-capture some of the fun of that elusive metal. The Isotope x Revolution Mercury draws inspiration from not only the aforementioned element but also the iconic Mercury Streamliner train designed by Henry Dreyfuss and the Roman god Mercury, from whom both the train and the element take their names. The result is a unique watch with a level of polish I’m not sure I’ve ever encountered before - though the Sartory Billard and Grail Watch SB07 “Ghost” sure comes close. The Mercury answers the question of what a dress watch from Isotope would look like. The Art Deco-inspired cushion case of the Mercury measures 38mm across, 44.5mm lug-to-lug, 10mm thick, with a 20mm lug width, and is 100 meters water resistant. It’s also fully mirror-polished. And when...
Quill & Pad
As a road cyclist and runner with a raft of leg injuries, Tim Mosso's first move was to ditch the running. He then decided that it was time for a new bike.
Monochrome
The use of luminescent materials on watches is far from new… Soon after the discovery of radium and its properties (and dangers…) by Marie and Pierre Curie in 1898, watch dials – markers, numerals and hands – have been coated with radium and then different substances (tritium, Super-LumiNova) to produce light in the dark. Fully […]
Monochrome
The BR 01 is the face that launched a thousand ships for Bell & Ross, capturing the military and aviation inspiration that has come to define this brand. Unveiled in 2005, the BR 01’s distinctive square case with four screws and a round, cockpit instrument-inspired dial became the brand’s foundation watch. With its oversized 46mm […]
Monochrome
William Wood is well known for its firefighter-themed portfolio like the Fire Exit Watch, Triumph Chronographs and The Red Watch, but this latest piece goes above and beyond the norm. The brand is calling it the “greatest watch in our company’s history” and it’s certainly worthy of that title. Jonny Garrett, grandson of William Wood […]
Fratello
At the end of last year, Breitling announced that it had acquired Universal Genève. That move caused excitement within the watch community, mainly because UG’s vintage watches are highly esteemed. The fact that a respected brand like Breitling is now involved in resurrecting UG seems promising. But we’ll probably have to wait a few more […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Universal Genève Classics To Buy Before The Brand Returns to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin just dropped the Diver Net OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS, a pair of military-inspired sports watches made from sustainable materials. Dressed in olive drab and black, the two watches utilise recycled steel and carbon composites, and even nylon straps made from fishing nets. Though the emphasis on sustainability and styling are clearly modern, the basis of the watches is historical: the design is modelled on the shipborne marine chronometers Ulysse Nardin was once famous for. The Diver X Skeleton OPS with its open dial Initial Thoughts Ulysse Nardin opted for more restrained aesthetics for the new Diver Duo, instead of the brighter colours found on past models. The Diver Net OPS in particular has a low-key, functional look. Notably, the trademark “X” motif on its dial – which you either love or hate – is not particularly obvious. I find the “X” too bold on some other designs, but here it works better with the military-esque look of the dial. However, both the materials and movements found inside the two watches reflect the brand’s focus on advanced, industrial watchmaking. The Diver Net OPS, for example, is an entry-level model but still equipped with an in-house movement with a silicon hairspring and free-sprung balance, along with a diamond-coated escapement. The Diver Net OPS And the use of recycled materials is also interesting. The carbon composite parts of the case are offcuts from the aircraft manufacturing, which according to the brand red...
Time+Tide
With the Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT, the striking visuals of the lineup have been retained with the addition of chronograph and GMT functions.The post Travel in style with the jetsetting echo/neutra Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
If you read this article shortly after publication, you are probably missing the Monaco Grand Prix. Or you are multi-tasking, which I would not recommend; eyes on the road! Either way, TAG Heuer is releasing a new version of its Monaco Chronograph in celebration of the Monaco race. Join me for a first look at […] Visit Hot Take: The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton In Black DLC Titanium to read the full article.
Fratello
Grab a cup of coffee, and get ready for a new Sunday Morning Showdown. For this week’s battle, we have selected two new Tudor introductions. During Watches and Wonders this year, many watch fans agreed that Tudor’s releases were more exciting than Rolex’s. So what if we put two popular Tudor watches up against each […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Black Bay Master Chronometer In Black to read the full article.
Deployant
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda is HYT's exclusive high complication creation. Limited to just eight pieces, the HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda is a collector's dream, priced at CHF 355,000. It represents the pinnacle of HYT's horological achievements and is a bold statement piece for any aficionado.
Fratello
For me, Rolex had a golden era. It was from the middle of the last century right up until the mid-2000s. Many of our fellow enthusiasts and collectors seem to share this impression and veer towards this long period of Rolex design in their horological journeys. Why is this the case? I think it’s probably […] Visit My First Rolex: The Oyster Perpetual 1002 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Both Morgan and Pininfarina are household names when it comes to car design. The British firm is known for its hand-built retro-styled roadsters and three-wheeled playthings, while the Italian studio is arguably one of the best in the business of designing show-stopping and supremely elegant cars. Both share over 200 years of coachbuilding history and […]
Fratello
I’m sorry; I misunderstood the task at hand. This is not about me being given €7,500 to spend on three watches… I’ve reluctantly given myself a purchasing embargo, and for an addict, that’s not easy, hence the happy outburst. But I still relish the challenge of picking the best watches under €2,500, which is not […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thor’s Picks From Tissot, SpaceOne, And Sinn to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage 1987 Swatch First up this week is a cool vintage Swatch. I love how these 1980’s gems are back in style! Now, this “X” model is one I didn’t know was a thing, but apparently the X-rated, or Straight Edge or even Gen-X thing this watch represents is quite popular! This particular model goes for quite the premium over other Swatch models I’ve seen. Anyway, this example is in excellent original condition and hails from 1987, and comes on the original plastic strap. If you’re in the market for the coveted “X” Swatch, here’s your chance for one at auction rather than an exorbitant ‘buy it now’ price. View auction here 1970s Vintage Bulova Here’s an unusual vintage Bulova Sea King with the neat whale logo. The dark blue dial has really unique faceted cross markers in applied steel, along with bold steel stick hands. The dial also has the classic Sea King whale logo which I’ve always liked. The 32mm steel case is unpolished with sharp edges on the thin lugs. No movement picture but the seller states the watch runs and keeps time. The bracelet is a nice period-correct steel band that suits the watch perfectly, even though it is not Bulova branded. Nice vint...
Monochrome
The ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement is well-known in the world of watchmaking for being tough, reliable, and versatile. Since it was first introduced in the early 1970s, it has gained a strong reputation for being accurate and long-lasting, which has made it a favourite chronograph calibre among both watchmakers and enthusiasts. In addition, the […]
Worn & Wound
EDC continues to grow as part of what we enjoy and feature here in the Windup Watch Shop for many of the same exact reasons we love watches. We appreciate usable, practical tools that can evoke feelings of both romance and adventure. What’s more, EDC is often even more varied and affordable than the average timepiece, making everyday carry gear an exciting complement to our watches. Today we look at five EDC picks that are not only must-haves; they are all under $100. And now they are all eligible for free domestic shipping in the US. Take a look and happy trails! EDC continues to grow as part of what we enjoy and feature here in the Windup Watch Shop for many of the same exact reasons we love watches. We appreciate usable, practical tools that can evoke feelings of both romance and adventure. What’s more, EDC is often even more varied and affordable than the average timepiece, making everyday carry gear an exciting complement to our watches. Today we look at five EDC picks that are not only must-haves; they are all under $100. And now they are all eligible for free domestic shipping in the US. Take a look and happy trails! The post Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Just a little after a month from Watches and Wonders, the Watchmaker's watchmaker Jaeger Le-Coultre released a new watch (Polaris Geographic) and introduced new dial colours to the Polaris line.
Worn & Wound
Summer might not officially be here for another month, but we can’t help it if we’re already feeling like the season is upon us. First of all, it’s hot all over the US right now, and warm temperatures have us thinking of the beach, drinks with little umbrellas in them, road trips, dive watches, and all the other little things that make this time of year so much fun. And what would summer be without a selection of watches that conjure warm weather fun? The “summer watch” is not a new idea, but it’s an undeniably fun exercise to add some seasonality to an old standby, and that’s what Oris is going for with the just announced Aquis Date ‘Taste of Summer’ Watermelon. This particular taste of summer is actually a pair of watches, which when seen together immediately make you think of what I think is undeniably the quintessential summer fruit. Seriously, does anyone even dare suggest that any other fruit be designated as absolutely essential for summer? I won’t hear any pineapple talk in these pages – it’s watermelon all the way. While the full impact of the Aquis Date ‘Taste of Summer’ is best experienced when these watches are paired, each is certainly still in summer mode when you look at them separately. Dials in bright colors – red and green in this case – are exactly what most of us think of when the idea of a summer watch is broached. For these new versions of the Aquis, we also get complementary white ceramic bezel inserts that give them a...
Monochrome
Long associated with motorsport, TAG Heuer keeps maintaining its racing heritage with its emblematic Carrera and Monaco collections. Born in 1969 and one of the most symbolic chronograph watches in modern history, the latter has been a canvas for innovation in recent years, including a complex and bold split-seconds version a few months ago. With […]
Fratello
Watch photography has come a long way in a short time. Not too long ago, a good photo was one where the watch was properly lit and sharp. Today, watch photography is a genre of its own with many creative sub-styles and trends. Social media has surely been a strong driver of that quick development. […] Visit Watch Photography For Beginners: The Gear To Get You Started Down The Right Path to read the full article.
Fratello
In this edition of Fratelli Stories, reader Antonio shares how his father’s passion for vintage Seiko and Omega sparked his very own love of watches. But it was old ads that truly sucked him into the hobby. Imagine flicking through an old magazine or publication one day at a secondhand store and coming across one […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Connecting To Vintage Watches Through Old Ads to read the full article.
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