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Would You Customize Your Daytona? A New Creation From Artisans de Genève Makes a Strong Case for Personalization Worn & Wound
Rolex or any other brand Jan 16, 2023

Would You Customize Your Daytona? A New Creation From Artisans de Genève Makes a Strong Case for Personalization

The personalization of high end watches will probably always be a hot topic in the watch community. As long as wealthy collectors are buying watches, some will have an urge to completely revamp them to make them their own. By the same token, the collecting community will always have a segment of purists who find that any tinkering with a brand’s original design amounts to a crime against horology itself. Regardless of your personal feelings and taste, however, I think it’s hard to argue that there are a handful of firms offering custom work at an extremely high level, and Artisans de Genève is certainly at or near the top of a very small list. If gaudy and out of control diamond and gem setting is what comes to mind when you think of custom watches, Artisans de Genève is worth a look, as their house style is rooted in traditional aesthetics executed at a very high level. Because Artisans de Genève doesn’t actually produce and sell their own watches (when browsing their website, you’re reminded at every turn that they aren’t affiliated with Rolex or any other brand, and that they offer custom work for individual clients who provide their own watches), it’s a little hard to get your arms around what they’re working on. That’s largely intentional on their part, of course, but from time to time they will highlight a custom job that is particularly unique or visually beautiful. The Honey Green Project, recently unveiled to the public, is one such example of a...

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Hamilton Khaki Field Collection: A Comprehensive Buying Guide for 2024 Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Jan 16, 2023

Hamilton Khaki Field Collection: A Comprehensive Buying Guide for 2024

When it comes to being a vital thread in the American historical tapestry, few watch companies can compare with Hamilton. Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, during an era in which the United States was a world leader in timepiece production, the Hamilton Watch Company has played a role in building and growing the young nation since its earliest days. And though the company has for several decades been making its watches in Switzerland rather than the United States, its American heritage, and its particular association with the American military, is evident in several of its modern-day collections, perhaps most plainly in the Hamilton Khaki Field collection, which channels the martial aesthetics of the 1940s in a stye that few other modern timepiece families can match.  From Railroads to Battlefields In 1912, as railroads began spanning and connecting the sprawling reaches of the country, it was Hamilton that produced the uncommonly sturdy and precise pocket watches that railroad conductors used to keep the trains on time and on schedule; in those days before an established international system of time zones, a poorly running watch could initiate a disaster on the rails. Just two years later, as the United States entered the First World War that was besieging Europe, Hamilton shifted its focus from being the acknowledged “Railroad Timekeeper of America” to building compact timekeepers that American G.I.s could wear and depend upon in the trenches and battlefie...

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Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jan 16, 2023

Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater

Founded by a duo who trained as jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in transforming old pocket watch movements and installing them in custom-made wristwatches. Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry recently completed its third minute-repeating wristwatch, the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater. The Royal Symphony is powered by a movement from a 1910 pocket watch made by Haas Neveux & Cie., a Geneva-based watch brand known for its high-quality movements that active from the mid-19th century to the 1920s. In typical Molnar Fabry style, the movement was entirely reworked, not only to restore its mechanical function, but also entirely decorated to a high level that includes engraving on the bridges. Initial thoughts Each watch made by Molnar Fabry is unique and mostly made according to the client’s specifications since most are made to order. As a result, the brand’s house style covers a diverse aesthetic – it is certainly not for everyone – but the quality of work is always impressive. Being jewellers, the brand’s founders apply the same artisanal, manual techniques used in producing jewellery to their watches. Even in photos the artisanal nature of the work is apparent, ranging from the movement decoration to the hand engraving on the case back. However, Molnar Fabry’s work on the movement is primarily decorative rather than mechanical. As a result, the Haas Neveux calibre still has a balance staff without shock protection. That’s like a non-issue in a watch like the Roy...

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A Week In Watches Ep. 32: LVMH Watch Week Lands with a (Big) Bang, & Oris Drops a New Caliber Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Carrera alongside Jan 15, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 32: LVMH Watch Week Lands with a (Big) Bang, & Oris Drops a New Caliber

Welcome to A Week In Watches episode 32 with Managing Editor, Blake Buettner jumping in to chat about some of the new watches released during LVMH Watch Week. We’ve got some bombastic Hublots, an anniversary LE of the TAG Heuer Carrera alongside a low-key killer Aquaracer, and of course, some new Skyline references from Zenith. If none of that is your thing we’ve also got some news from Oris, who released a new caliber this week within a lovely Big Crown Pointer Date. Find links to all these stories below and hit the video for the full episode. Share your thoughts on YouTube (and subscribe to the channel while you’re there), or right here in the comments section.  This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The Carrera Turns 60 this Year, and TAG Heuer is Celebrating This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera chronograph, and if you thought TAG Heuer was going to let even a month go by without acknowledging what is perhaps their most famous and admired watch, well, you must be new. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary is exactly what you probably want to see if you’re a fan of classic Heuer racing chronographs, as it’s modeled after one of the most legendary Carrera references, the 2447 SN, and matches it detail for detail. Read the full story here. Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? ...

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VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph What Jan 15, 2023

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph

What comes to mind when you think of Louis Vuitton? Is it leather bags and wallets? Cream coloured trim? Or maybe a set of high-end luggage for travelling around the world? What if I told you what you should be thinking of is a watch collection with an iconic and flexible design? That’s what we … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Diving With The Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer – Repise Quill & Pad
Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Jan 15, 2023

Diving With The Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer – Repise

When Ball Watch asked Dietmar Fuchs to test dive one of the company’s newest watches, the Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer, he hesitated at first. Ball didn’t jingle a diving bell for him, but something else from its history jangled: a brand’s “history” section is always the first thing he checks before testing a watch and he discovered Ball Watch has the credentials. So he dove in and now shares his experience and thoughts on the watch here.

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: Boots with Commando Soul, In-Depth Leica Lens Guide, Steven Soderbergh’s Annual EOY List, & More Worn & Wound
Jan 14, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Boots with Commando Soul, In-Depth Leica Lens Guide, Steven Soderbergh’s Annual EOY List, & More

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Robb Report / Grenson Boots With Commando Soul Via Robb Report / Grenson Boots are very much a part of our everyday gear around the office. We’re no strangers to throwing on and lacing up rugged works of art from brands like Red Wing, Grant Stone, and Blundstone, even if the closest outdoorsy thing we do on a regular basis is to climb the set of stairs that lead into the office. Turns out, the rubber soles on some of these boots actually have a purpose and history that dates back to WWII. Via Robb Report / Grenson Are you wearing a pair of boots right now? Stop reading and check out the soles of your boots. If you see chunky rubber blocks framing several star-shaped medallions lined down the middle, then you my friend are rocking a boot with a commando sole. Developed for the military, this specific rubber soul served its purpose by giving soldiers more traction, cushion, and stability out in the battlefield. When the war finally ended, British shoemakers translated this style into casual boots providing practical features to regular folks who want to get about ...

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New: Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko SLA065 Deployant
Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko Jan 14, 2023

New: Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko SLA065

The SLA065 is comfortable on the wrist and fits well despite its relatively tall 13.1mm thickness. It is now issued in a larger 41mm case instead of the 39mm case in the SLA017 reissue. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear. Overall, the Seiko Prospex SLA065 is a great choice for anyone looking for a fun daily beater. The combination of high-quality case finish and craftsmanship, along with the mechanical movement, make the new 62MAS reissue a standout choice. The watch is limited to 1300 pieces.

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Vincent Deschamps Worn & Wound
Jan 13, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Vincent Deschamps

Editor’s note: In our first Three Watch Collection for $5,000 of 2023, reader and fellow watch writer, Vincent Deschamps of Mainspring.Watch brings us a trio of classics from some of our favorite small independent brands. There’s a lovely and unique balance to these three watches and it’s one of the most creative we’ve come across yet.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. It wasn’t until I thought of submitting my ideas for a three-watch collection for $5,000 that I imagined myself as someone who could have a three-watch collection. While I tend to only wear the same watch everyday (the Lorier Falcon III,) I do see the massive benefit of having other watches for different purposes. As an enthusiastic support of independent watchmaking, below you will find my selection for a three-watch collection below. Each watch fulfills a particular need and use case and I believe each one does it quite well. Lorier Falcon Mark III – $499 At the top of my list is the Lorier Falcon Mark III released in late 2022, the archetype everyday sports watch. I’m a sucker for watches that can do 100% of what I need 95% of the time, and that’s what the Falcon is to me. It comes with a solid build, good specs, and an elegant figure that makes it work in most situations I find myself in. And it’s quite affordable coming in at $499. There are two things about this watch that make it work so well for me: it...

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Grand Seiko Spring Drive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Jan 13, 2023

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Guide

Japan’s Grand Seiko has become, in a relatively short span of time, one of the world’s most prestigious and collectible high-luxury watchmakers, competing for connoisseur attention and dollars with well-established maisons from Switzerland and Germany. And while its success is definitely a 21st century phenomenon, Grand Seiko is not really a “new brand” in the strictest sense. The first Grand Seiko watch (below) debuted all the way back in 1960, part of the much larger product portfolio of Japanese watchmaking giant Seiko, which was founded in 1881 and achieved its worldwide fame by embracing the mass market with timepieces at accessible prices with wide distribution. The Grand Seiko, by contrast, was positioned as the megabrand’s exclusive “King of Watches,” with standards of accuracy, beauty, durability, and legibility that could meet or surpass its Swiss competitors. Until 2010, it was also Japan’s best-kept horological secret, not exported to markets outside the country. Seven years after its international expansion, having cultivated a loyal and avid audience worldwide, an entirely new and distinct customer base apart from mainline Seiko’s, Grand Seiko firmly established itself as an independent brand - albeit one still intrinsically tied to its parent company through shared history and technology. Among those technologies is an innovative type of watch movement that was perfected right before the turn of the 21st Century and remains the exclusiv...

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[VIDEO] Tudor Black Bay Retrospective, A Watch The Launched An Era Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay Retrospective Jan 13, 2023

[VIDEO] Tudor Black Bay Retrospective, A Watch The Launched An Era

Much has been said about the Tudor Black Bay, here and elsewhere, and it’s ushering in of a new era of heritage inspired watches that’s taken hold throughout the industry. The Black Bay family has grown to include a broad range of watches, from GMTs and chronographs, to two-toned 36mm field watches, but the charm of the classic divers remains as strong today as when they were first released more than 10 years ago. Most of us here, and presumably many of you reading, have seen a Black Bay or two come through our collection at some point over the years, and each year we hold out hope for a particular spec or version of the watch we’d like to see released. It’s just had that kind of an effect on enthusiasts.  As luck would have it, we recently found ourselves with an abundance of Black Bay watches in the office, so we took the opportunity to get them together and discuss the impact it’s had on each of us over the years. Below find a selection of our Black Bay reviews that we’ve published, including some of our favorites like the Black Bay 58, the Black Bay Pro, and the Steel & Gold Chrono. How has the Black Bay impacted your collecting? Which examples have you owned or do you hope to own? Let us know in the comments and be sure to share your ideal Black Bay that you’d love to see Tudor release this year. Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue The Black Bay 58 in blue was a bright spot in an otherwise tumultuous 2020. This was the second version...

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The 5 best high complication watches of 2022 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Jan 13, 2023

The 5 best high complication watches of 2022

It’s nearly impossible to distil and encompass the variety and unique features of last year’s best complication into only five picks, but we’ll do our best to try, while having to include only a couple honourable mentions. Like any other year, established players in mainstream high-end watchmaking like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne … ContinuedThe post The 5 best high complication watches of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is Now Open SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Jan 13, 2023

The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is Now Open

An annual award that seeks to recognise and support promising watchmakers, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is open for submissions until February 1, 2023. The entry criteria is straightforward: watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from any country who have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”, but professional qualifications or training are not necessary. The prize is a CHF20,000 grant meant to finance tools or a watchmaking project. The contest will be judged by a panel including Francois-Paul Journe himself and Giulio Papi, who will select the winner based on originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on Fpjourne.com from now until February 1, 2023.  

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Auction Watch: A Single-Owner Collection of F.P. Journe at Phillips SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Jan 13, 2023

Auction Watch: A Single-Owner Collection of F.P. Journe at Phillips

Le Concours de Complexité is probably the smallest watch auction ever conducted by Phillips. Taking place online from January 13-20, the sale comprises just 11 watches. But all 11 are F.P. Journe watches, including important models like a Sonnerie Souveraine, Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium, and Centigraphe Anniversaire. So while the quantity is modest, the quality and value are high. And the watches all come with impeccable provenance. The former owner is a prominent businessman from Southeast Asia who is active real estate development. He purchased most of them brand new and has clearly kept them in immaculate condition. Le Concours de Complexité begins on January 13 and will run until January 20. Bidding and the catalogue can be accessed on Phillips.com. Below we round up a trio of highlights from the sale. The Sonnerie Souveraine Lot 8001 – Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium Synonymous with the independent watchmaker, the Resonance is correctly regarded as one of the most ingenious creations in contemporary watchmaking. Francois-Paul Journe was the first to implement the concept in a wristwatch, having been inspired by 18th century clocks operating on the principle of resonance. This example is one of the Ruthenium series that was launched in 2001. The name comes from the fact that the dial and brass movement bridges are plated in ruthenium, giving them a dark grey finish. Notably, the Ruthenium editions are the last F.P. Journe models to utilise brass m...

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The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Goes Full Titanium Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Jan 12, 2023

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Goes Full Titanium

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional has taken significant strides over the past couple of years in both design and form, while simultaneously offering multidimensional models across the entire collection. Examples include the green dialed titanium diver with the Aquaracer Professional 300, a fully lumed dial with the Aquaracer Professional Night Diver, and the introduction of the Aquaracer Professional 200 line, which packaged their flagship dive watch into a tidy 40mm case and refined some of the design elements in the process. With all of these signs pointing in the right direction for the brand, the table is set for TAG Heuer to continue their momentum in 2023, and boy, do they do so with the release of the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. TAG Heuer takes the Aquaracer Professional 200 further by going lighter with this new iteration of the Solargraph. All of the case components, including the case body, bezel, and caseback, as well as the accompanying bracelet, are built from grade 2 titanium. Unlike the more refined versions of the Aquaracer Professional 200, there isn’t a hint of polish on the case. Instead, every millimeter of the case and bracelet gets a sand blasted finish giving this diver a more resolute and utilitarian aesthetic. Differentiating Lume The bezel maintains the signature twelve-sided shape with each facet housing a set of six bezel teeth. The black numerals and markers are displayed in-relief, once again keeping the same design language wi...

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eBay Finds: Electric Watches, Fat Lugs, & Vintage Formal Wear Worn & Wound
Bulova Ambassador Here’s Jan 12, 2023

eBay Finds: Electric Watches, Fat Lugs, & Vintage Formal Wear

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Ambassador Here’s a sweet vintage Bulova Ambassador, complete box and original strap. The steel case is 35mm wide and in great shape, with nice slim lugs and clear deeply engraved ‘Ballerina’ caseback logo. Gorgeous silver dial with simple steel stick markers and hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. The original acrylic crystal looks perfect and has the correct internal date magnifier window. This is front-loading case so no surprise that there is no photo of the movement. This beauty comes with the original Bulova strap, and maybe even the original Bulova buckle, although there is no photo of it and the seller doesn’t say. Boxes are included which is nice, although the seller states the inner box is damaged. View auction here. Eterna-Matic Centenaire This vintage Eterna-Matic Centenaire is one you don’t see too often, which is a shame as it’s a great looking watch. That said, here’s your chance at one! The 35mm steel case is simple with slim lugs like the Bulova above, with the biggest difference being the crown is neatly recessed into the case giving is a streamlined look. The dial is white with killer applied steel faceted arrow markers and the class...

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Grand Seiko’s First Limited Editions of 2023 Celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 9S Caliber Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s First Limited Editions Jan 12, 2023

Grand Seiko’s First Limited Editions of 2023 Celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 9S Caliber

It’s an often repeated mantra around here: every year is an anniversary year. And if a watch brand is going to be successful in today’s hyper competitive market where, frankly, a lot of brands are offering products that are remarkably similar to one another, they need to differentiate themselves. And looking at a calendar, and figuring out how many years it’s been since “X” accomplishment or “Y” watch was first released is (usually) a decent runway for explaining what makes you special. To that end, Grand Seiko is embarking on what will apparently be a year of celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Caliber 9S, a movement which has become foundational to Grand Seiko in the decades since its debut.  The Caliber 9S has become a broad family of movements over the years, as Grand Seiko has continuously refined the caliber, including adding GMT functionality. Grand Seiko has used the 9S movements as a platform for their MEMS engineering techniques, which allow for insanely tight tolerances in movement making for certain key components, and you could probably argue that 9S movements represent the most traditional watchmaking currently practiced by the brand. Today, 9S movements are universally known to be reliable and rock solid high frequency calibers that often perform even better than the specs would indicate. Most recently, the 9S served as the springboard for the creation of Grand Seiko’s next generation Hi-Beat movement, the 9SA5.  While it might not be t...

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LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings Jan 12, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop

LVMH Watch Week is back, and Zenith is bringing out the big guns to kick off 2023. And one of the biggest and boldest has to be the new limited-to-50 Defy Extreme Glacier chrono, a technological tour-de-force in a striking package that incorporates a unique material. The 45mm titanium case still retains the angular, architectural … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? Also, a Ceramic Big Bang with a Rhino on the Dial Worn & Wound
Hublot Asks Why Settle Jan 12, 2023

Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? Also, a Ceramic Big Bang with a Rhino on the Dial

Yesterday, Blake took you through all the details of Hublot’s latest reinterpretation of their Classic Fusion with the updated Classic Fusion Original. For the Hublot historians out there (are you out there?), this was surely a welcome sight, as it calls back to the earliest days of the brand when a luxury watch on a rubber strap was a truly transgressive idea. We’ve come a long way since then, and so has Hublot. The brand has had ups and downs with the watch community (to the say the least), but in recent years they’ve leaned into experimentation with materials (especially colored ceramics and sapphire) that have gotten the attention of open minded and adventurous collectors and enthusiasts, while making watches like the Classic Fusion Original feel almost sleepy by comparison (sorry, Classic Fusion Original). Hublot’s latest envelope pushing novelties are insane in the way only modern Hublot can pull off, and while they likely won’t find a home in the watch box of any Worn & Wound staffers anytime soon, they’re too crazy not to share.  First up, a watch in the same vein as my beloved Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM. This tennis ball colored, translucent tourbillon uses the same HUB6035 automatic tourbillon movement as the purple version released last year, and fills out the same enormous 44mm Big Bang form factor, but uses a slightly different synthetic sapphire material in the case construct...

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Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jan 12, 2023

Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original

One of the “it” watches of the 1980s, Hublot’s porthole-inspired watch on a rubber strap has been revived. Forty-two years since the brand made its debut with the iconoclastic hublot watch – it was the first watch to combine a gold case and rubber strap – the brand is paying tribute to its founder Carlo Crocco with a new range modelled on the original design. Taking after the original in look and feel, the Classic Fusion Original collection comprises three sizes, each available in three material configurations. Initial thoughts Almost minimalist in its design, the Classic Fusion Original is simpler and sleeker than the typical Hublot. It is relatively compact and thin in all three sizes – the largest model is 10 mm high – giving it a surprisingly elegant profile on the wrist. The no-frills design is strongly appealing, except for the date window, which isn’t too prominent but still unnecessary. And I would have gone even further in the minimalist direction by doing away with the seconds hand. That said, both the date and seconds are part of the original 1980 design. Despite the clean styling, the watch is instantly recognisable as a Hublot. In fact, the Classic Fusion Original is arguably more distinctively Hublot than the some of the brand’s other models, which occasionally resemble offerings from Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Starting at around US$8,000 in titanium with an automatic movement (the smallest, 33 mm versions are all quartz), the Cl...

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Omega dominate 2023 Golden Globes’ red carpet. Rolex, Cartier, TAG, Vacheron, Bulgari also make appearances Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Jan 12, 2023

Omega dominate 2023 Golden Globes’ red carpet. Rolex, Cartier, TAG, Vacheron, Bulgari also make appearances

Omega dominated the 2023 Golden Globes red carpet Their range of styles and dial colours make their watches very easy to style Rolex, Cartier, TAG Heuer, and more were also spotted – but not nearly as many as Omega  While high-brow enthusiasts may find themselves above the superficiality of watchspotting, it is hard to ignore … ContinuedThe post Omega dominate 2023 Golden Globes’ red carpet. Rolex, Cartier, TAG, Vacheron, Bulgari also make appearances appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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