Revolution
Grand Seiko turns 60 with 3 models inspired by the ref 3180
Grand Seiko turns 60 this year, and it hits the watch industry with a slew of the greatest hits from the brand.
Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom
43,664 articles · 274 videos found · page 735 of 1465
Revolution
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Diver 600M SLGA001
Having just unveiled the impressive 9SA5 automatic movement in the Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002 as part of its 60th anniversary line-up, Grand Seiko is also rolling out a newly-developed Spring Drive movement – the first with a five-day power reserve and thermocompensation. Unusually, the new calibre is making its debut in a dive watch, the Grand Seiko 600M Professional Diver’s watch (ref. SLGA001). Characterised by large, angular lugs, case design of the new diver is familiar, borrowing from the current Grand Seiko high-frequency dive watches. In short, it’s the typical Grand Seiko diver look, meaning big, bold and chunky, measuring 46.9 mm in diameter and 16 mm high. Both the case and bracelet are made of Seiko’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium, which 30% lighter than steel and more resistant to scratches, so the size of the SLGA001 does not translate into substantial weight. Likewise, the dark blue dial retains the usual Grand Seiko dive watch styling. Legibility is maximised with large hands and hour markers – both with generous amounts of luminous paint. The date display on the new diver is at four o’clock, instead of the usual three o’clock. But the date is not just a relocation – thanks to the new 9RA5 movement, the date disc jumps at a “greatly increased” speed for a crisper changeover. The 9RA5 While the design of the watch contains no surprises, the Spring Drive movement inside is brand new and incorporates several features originally...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the First GS 1960 Re-Creation (Including in Titanium)
Sometimes known as the “3180” after the movement inside, the very first Grand Seiko model of 1960 is an indisputably important watch in the history of the brand. Unsurprisingly, the first Grand Seiko has been remade on several occasions as commemorative limited editions. For the 60th anniversary of Grand Seiko, a “re-creation” of the first Grand Seiko is being added to the regular collection – including a surprising version with a titanium case. With reissues of the 3180 having been done for the 120th and 130th anniversary of Seiko, and most recently in 2017 when Grand Seiko was spun off as an independent brand, the 3180 remake is now on its fourth iteration, making it pretty familiar. The latest remakes might not please anyone who owns the preceding editions, but for anyone who missed out they are spot on. But the new re-creation is distinct in several ways. The case is 38 mm, larger than the 35 mm original, and identical to the 2017 edition. More notably, it has a sapphire case back, a first for a 3180 remake. The 9S64 visible through the display back Three versions are available, each distinguished in material and dial colour but also in more subtle details. The top-of-the-line model is the platinum re-creation SBGW257. This has a solid gold dial matched with solid gold hour markers, as well as an engraved logo at 12 o’clock, a detail inspired by the dials of early 3180s. Because of the precious metal dial, it has a small star at above six o’clock, which ...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Elegance Collection ’60th Anniversary’ Engraved
Twenty-twenty marks the 60th year of Grand Seiko and the brand is pulling no punches with its high-end commemorative editions. Dedicated to Grand Seiko’s workshop in the town of Shizukuishi, the 60th anniversary pair of Elegance Collection Thin Dress watches both feature decorative engraving, but executed by hand and machine respectively. Located in the northern province of Iwate, Shizukuishi is a small town surrounded by mountains, including the imposing Mount Iwate, which is an active volcano. The town is home to the Shizukuishi Watch Studio, where the best mechanical Grand Seiko watches are produced (Spring Drive watches, on the other hand, are produced at Seiko-Epson’s facility in Shiojiri in Nagano province). Elegance Collection ’60th Anniversary’ hand-engraved SBGW263 (left) and machine-engraved SBGW264 Shizukuishi, or しずく いし, translates literally as “water droplet on stone” – shizuku is “droplet” and ishi means “stone”. Legend has it that the town was founded a millennia ago when an old man living in the area heard the sound of dripping water, which originated in a cave where water from the ceiling was dripping onto the rocks below. The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Thin Dress ’60th Anniversary’ Hand Engraved (ref. SBGW263) is a nod to the ancient origin story. It featured a solid gold dial hand engraved with a motif inspired by the town’s founding. Made entirely of 18k white gold, the dial is comprised of three parts – bas...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry SBGD205
For its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko has just unveiled one of the most extravagant, and expensive, watches ever – the Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch (ref. SBGD205). Combining the flagship Spring Drive model – made at the artisanal Micro Artist Studio – with a lavish setting of diamonds and sapphires, the Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch is a departure from the typical, subtle formality of Grand Seiko design. The base of the Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch is the SBGD201, an immense, heavy and refined wristwatch powered by the impressive 9R01 movement. Equipped with three barrels that give it a 192-hour power reserve, the 9R01 is finished to the same level as the much-vaunted Credor Eichi II, thought the massive full bridge means there are few details visible on the back. The dial of the watch is unusual. Though Grand Seiko (and Seiko) have always produced jewelled watches for women, this is probably the first heavily gem-set men’s model in a long time. The centre of the dial has a granular, slightly sparkly “dial dust” finish that is identical to the dial finish on the standard Grand Seiko 8 Days. But it has a subtle constellation of Leo – the Grand Seiko emblem is a lion – incorporated into the surface of the dial and visible only up close. Around the diamond-dust centre are two white gold chapter rings, one set with large, baguette-cut stones and the other with smaller, brilliant-cut stone. Each of the hours and ...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002
Of the half-dozen commemorative editions Grand Seiko is rolling out to mark its 60th anniversary, one watch is significant over all the others, because it has a brand-new calibre that represents the first of a new generation of movements. A complete rethink of the 9S family of movements – first unveiled 22 years ago – the 9SA5 makes its debut in the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition (ref. SLGH002). While the movement is cutting-edge for the brand, the design of the SLGH002 is a throwback to vintage Grand Seiko – the dial emulates the aesthetics of the first Grand Seiko 3180 of 1960 but with a modern twist, namely with widened hands and hour markers. As a result, the dial is quintessential Grand Seiko, having a sculptural quality thanks to the broad dauphine hands and substantial, applied 18k gold hour markers. Even the frame around the date window is 18k gold. The star above six o’clock indicates “SD”, or “special dial”, which means gold hour markers (and sometimes a gold dial) Made of 18k yellow gold, the case has a diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of 11.7 mm. Most of its surfaces have a brushed finish, interspersed with wide, faceted bevels that are mirror polished. The watch is notably thin for a self-winding Grand Seiko – the typical high-frequency Grand Seiko has a case just over 13 mm high – as a result of the new 9SA5 movement, which is the work of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi (formerly known as the Shizukuishi Watch Studio). ...
Revolution
Blancpain’s Mastery of the Dial
While the true beauty of mechanical timepieces is almost always on the inside, Blancpain’s métiers d’art collection makes a compelling case otherwise.
Time+Tide
Why I rely on mechanical watches in the most extreme environments known to man: Victor Vescovo
“To boldly go where no man has gone before …” For most people, that’s just a hackneyed line from Star Trek. For Victor Vescovo, it’s become a personal mission. Put simply, the American private equity investor is hell-bent on pushing his limits. He’s the first man to have reached the deepest points of four of the … ContinuedThe post Why I rely on mechanical watches in the most extreme environments known to man: Victor Vescovo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Battle Royale: The T+T Team debate which is the best Hublot Big Bang
The team have physically and emotionally recovered from the first round of Battle Royale, which saw a war of words fit for a Grecian epic tale. This week, the team are back in the cage to make their case for their favourite piece from the Hublot Big Bang collection, a family of watches that has … ContinuedThe post Battle Royale: The T+T Team debate which is the best Hublot Big Bang appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Three things we’re *really* digging about the Zenith X Revolution El Primero A3818 Revival
Last week, Zenith and Revolution magazine, as well as sister publication The Rake, dropped this – the El Primero A3818 Revival “Cover Girl”. This watch is a dead ringer for the original El Primero “Cover Girl”, so-called because it was the watch featured on the cover of Manfred Rössler’s book Zenith: Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865. … ContinuedThe post Three things we’re *really* digging about the Zenith X Revolution El Primero A3818 Revival appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Kessler’s Klassics: The ‘pre-Richemont’ Panerai Mare Nostrum
Revolution’s Editor-at-Large Ken Kessler takes a tour through the watchmaking classics.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The triple threat of the Franck Muller Master Banker in steel
Franck Muller is known as the Master of Complications, and for good reason. Almost none of the watches produced by the Genevan watchmaker are straightforward, with watches that run backward, hour hands that jump around the dial, and a host of other marvels of mechanical engineering that both surprise and delight. This flair for the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The triple threat of the Franck Muller Master Banker in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon Reference 5367: The Power Of Blue
What makes an enamel dial so magical? That is the question Martin Green asked himself when presented with the new version of the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique with a blue oven-fired enamel dial that Breguet recently launched. You may enjoy the answer he came up with.
Revolution
Introducing the Massena LAB x Unimatic Modello Uno Ref. U1-ML6
Old meets new in the latest collaborative effort from Massena LAB and Unimatic.
Deployant
Review: The Moon Smiles Back - The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire in White Gold
In the spirit of 'better late than never', we bring you the low-down and our thoughts on the Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire in white gold from 2016.
Time+Tide
Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch - the results
Last week, Nick Kenyon and Luke Benedictus got into a horological war of words over the rights and wrongs of the humble NATO strap. Luke took a defensive why-the-hell-not approach while Nick stuck to the purist’s line that some things must remain sacrosanct otherwise the whole of civilisation will go to pot. We then threw … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the New IWC Portugieser Chronograph
The iconic Portugieser Chronograph from IWC gets the automatic in-house Cal. 69355 in regular series production, and a display caseback to show it off.
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Pelagos “Qatar Watch Club”
Founded two years ago, the Qatar Watch Club (QWC) is a community of internet-savvy watch enthusiasts in the wealthy Arab nation. The club recently got together with Tudor and local watch retailer Fifty One East to create the Pelagos “Qatar Watch Club”, a limited edition of the brand’s top-spec dive watch. The second QWC edition after last year’s Chopard L.U.C GMT, the Pelagos has “Qatar” in Arabic, or “قطر”, on the dial at six, replacing the five lines of text on the standard model, giving it a much cleaner look. The other point of distinction is the club logo engraved on the case back. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard model, which means a titanium case rated to 500 m and a scratch-resistant, blue-ceramic bezel insert. And the watch is equipped with the MT5612 movement. A proprietary calibre produced by Kenissi, a joint venture Tudor shares with Chanel, the calibre has a 70-hour power reserve, silicon hairspring, and is an all-round strong performer, particularly at this price point. The watch is delivered in a box bearing the QWC logo, as well as an additional blue rubber strap. Only 50 were produced – the club has 50 members – and at press time all have been spoken for. QWC members at last year’s launch event for the Chopard L.U.C GMT QWC edition. Photo – QWC Key facts Tudor Pelagos Qatar Watch Club Special Edition Ref. M25600TB-0001 Diameter: 42 mm Thickness: 14.3 mm Material: Titanium Water resistance: 500 m Movement:...
Time+Tide
Weekend Watch Spotting - Very rare Rolex spotted in the HSNY Edition
This weekend we were lucky enough to be visited by the fantastic team from the Horological Society of New York, who were in Australia offering watchmaking classes to a few very passionate Melburnians. It was an evening that also celebrated the incredible generosity of the watch community at large, which was shown through the recent … ContinuedThe post Weekend Watch Spotting – Very rare Rolex spotted in the HSNY Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Completing the HSNY Watchmaking 101-103 course, the “closest thing to giving something life” a man can get
Editor’s note: Time+Tide Watches is very proud to be the first official media partner of the Horological Society of New York in history. Over this weekend, the HSNY ran their first watchmaking courses in Australia, and Roman S, a longtime reader and subject of several T+T stories (he has spectacular and unusual taste in watches), put … ContinuedThe post Completing the HSNY Watchmaking 101-103 course, the “closest thing to giving something life” a man can get appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
No Baselworld this year, for the first time since World War 1
It was only a day ago that the watch world was reacting to the cancellation of Watches & Wonders Geneva (formerly SIHH), as a result of the increasing spread of the Coronavirus, and wondering if Baselworld would suffer the same fate in 2020. Overnight, the answer was given, as Baselworld announced that it would be … ContinuedThe post No Baselworld this year, for the first time since World War 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
RIP RJ Romain Jérôme: First Horological Casualty Of The Coronavirus Fallout?
RJ Watches - formerly known as Romain Jérôme - has declared bankruptcy with immediate effect. Elizabeth Doerr takes a brief look at the 16-year run of this quirky boutique brand, its design-focused existence having formed an interesting tribute to the power (and limits) of marketing.
Revolution
Introducing the Chanel J12 Paradoxe and Paradoxe Diamonds
Chanel introduces the world’s first bi-color ceramic timepieces with the J12 Paradoxe and Paradoxe Diamonds.
Time+Tide
These are the five best watches in India, by popularity
According to many, many news stories over the last 12 months, India is expected to overtake China as the world’s most populous country within the next decade, with the current population of roughly 1.37 billion set to skyrocket. It’s a country on the up and up, and its people are developing quite the taste for … ContinuedThe post These are the five best watches in India, by popularity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Grey NATO: Episode 101: A Proper Q And A Megasode
You need answers. The boys are here to help.
Time+Tide
Complication made simple with the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept
Editor’s note: When it comes to stunning dials and complicated movements made simple, no one does it better than Moser. The Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold is one such example, with an enchanting fumé dial and a perpetual moon phase that is so simply laid out, those not in the know might … ContinuedThe post Complication made simple with the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hydrophobia, The Longines Heritage Classic Sector, and You
Learn how the Longines Heritage Classic Sector helped TBWS Junior Contributor Aggressive Timing Habits overcome his horological hydrophobia in this watch review!
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The revelatory Franck Muller Color Dreams
One of the biggest perks about this job is discovering things that I previously wouldn’t have known about myself. Now, I know that sounds both simultaneously profound and clichéd, and I am talking about watches after all, not the meaning of life … but it’s true, this job has taught me a great deal about … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The revelatory Franck Muller Color Dreams appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing The URWERK UR-111C Two-Tone
Launched in 2018 in two versions of 25 pieces, one in polished steel version and the other one in gunmetal finish, the Urwerk UR-111C now comes in a two-tone version made of black PVD and brushed steel.
Time+Tide
Why tourbillons are more accessible than ever thanks to the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T
Editor’s note: The tourbillon is an anachronism that is representative of the watch industry as a whole in a little way. It was conceived hundreds of years ago to solve problems that were pressing at the time, but despite being technologically surpassed by other devices in the meantime, it is currently facing its heyday with … ContinuedThe post Why tourbillons are more accessible than ever thanks to the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.