Revolution
Meet Wristcheck’s Austen Chu
Leading a brave new generation of watch collectors.
35,957 articles · 312 videos found · page 735 of 1209
Revolution
Leading a brave new generation of watch collectors.
Quill & Pad
"The watch industry today would be nothing without women," Elizabeth Doerr notes as the majority of watchmaker benches in watch factories are “manned” by women. Women were also responsible for the very first wristwatches; the world's first doctorate in horology went to a woman (Dr. Rebecca Struthers); and the now-safe lume glowing on your watch came about thanks to the dangerous (and deadly) work of both Marie Curie and the Radium Girls.
SJX Watches
Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...
Quill & Pad
More than a century of history of Baselworld, the world’s biggest and most comprehensive watch fair, is virtually impossible to sum up in just a few lines. However, that is what Elizabeth Doerr does here as she looks back over 102 years of Baselworld history and reflects on what happens next. Hopefully that is, "Pack your bags for Houruniverse 2021."
SJX Watches
Twenty twenty-one is a celebratory year for Seiko, which marks its 140th anniversary. Amongst the slew of watches launched for the occasion is the posh but stealth Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary (SLGH007). Cased in platinum and equipped with new 9SA5 movement, this is one of two platinum watches commissioned for the occasion, but unlike the Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Days that’s extravagantly set with diamonds and garnets, the SLGH007 is discreet, and even slightly intriguing with its tree ring-patterned dial. Initial thoughts Translating local flora and fauna into dial designs is a Grand Seiko specialty – which it named “The Nature of Time” – typically in the form of a stamped, patterned dial inspired by nature around its factories. But despite being one of many inspired by similar themes, the SLGH007 manages to stand out. The pronounced grain on the dial is not only new, but also diverges from the usual styling. Most patterned Grand Seiko dials rely on repeating patterns on a smaller scale, while the tree-ring dial has large, obvious figuring that forms a distinct landscape. And its charcoal-black finish makes it even more special – standing in contrast to the brighter colours Grand Seiko now favours – especially when matched with the platinum case. The result is a watch that’s low-key but stylish, and reminds me of the similarly-dressed Lange 1 “Darth”. The SLGH007 also has solid mechanics: it’s the fourth Grand Seiko to...
Time+Tide
Last week it happened again. I was standing in line at a coffee shop and, of the seven people queuing, I was the only one wearing a proper watch. There were four naked wrists, one Garmin and one Apple Watch constantly buzzing and flashing. Now if we have any chance of turning this sad situation … ContinuedThe post This is why Norifumi Seki looks set to become the Next Big Thing in watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While not the fanciest hotel in Basel – that title goes to Les Trois Rois across the river – the Swissôtel Le Plaza Basel was synonymous with the luxury watch brands that exhibited in Baselworld, the once dominant watch fair that was crippled by the departure of key exhibitors like Rolex and Patek Philippe, and then the pandemic. Located just across the street from Messe Basel, the sprawling convention centre where Baselworld once took place, the Swissôtel Basel was declared bankrupt by a Basel court in early last month. The hotel was heavily dependent on the city’s primary trade fairs, Art Basel and Baselworld. According to past news reports, over 60% of revenue at the Basel hotel came from trade fair bookings. And those trade fair bookings were exorbitant. So pricey that only the industry’s biggest movers and shakers could stay there – the hotel typically imposed a 10-day minimum stay for Baselworld leading to a bill of about 7000 Swiss francs per room – the Swissôtel Basel was a place where you could spot Thierry Stern, any one of the Hayeks who control Swatch Group, and the occasional Bugatti parked in front. According to industry insiders who had rooms booked for Baselworld 2020, the hotel did not offer refunds and instead moved the bookings to 2021. With clients sitting at the bottom of the ranking of creditors, it is unlikely that any of the fees will be repaid. Though managed by Accor, the French group that owns the Swissôtel brand, the Swissôtel...
SJX Watches
Named chief executive officer of Audemars Piguet (AP) in Southeast Asia at the end of 2019, Stefanie Ng was in charge of the brand’s marketing efforts in the region before being tapped for the top job. A respected industry insider whose first job was in watchmaking, Ms Ng is now responsible for one of the fastest-growing regions at one of the best-performing luxury-watch brands. With many pandemic restrictions lifted, I sat down with Ms Ng for a chat earlier in the year, where she explained what has kept her at AP for almost all of her career, and also provided some hints as to the watchmaker’s upcoming launches. The interview was edited for clarity and length. You were appointed CEO of AP in the region in October 2019. Tell us a bit about your career before that. I started my career in the watch industry, at Swatch Group, first at Breguet, and then at Blancpain and CK Calvin Klein, where I did marketing. So the world of luxury watches was familiar when I joined AP as the regional marketing manager, [a role] you would call brand manager today. I handled all marketing activities across Southeast Asia, that’s eight to nine countries, for eight years. You have been at AP for most of your career. What has kept you there? The company and its people. Its values and direction have given me interesting perspectives on the watch industry, while helping expand my horizons, first as a marketer, and then as a leader. And of course, it’s also the brand – AP is where I feel at...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Join TBWS for the last show of the year and another round of our Best In Horology Awards show. This one is packed full of new and returning categories - many of which were suggested by the fine folks on the TBWS Patreon Slack channel.
SJX Watches
Having gotten its start with collaborations with brands like Habring2, Massena introduced its first wristwatch under its own name last year. Now it’s following up with a hush-hush launch of the Archetype 0.0, a “pre-series prototype” watch that’s neither a limited edition nor regular production. Like the earlier Uni-Racer, the Archetype 0.0 is a vintage-style chronograph conceived with an eye for details that only an enthusiast would appreciate. But unlike its predecessor, the Archetype 0.0 isn’t modelled on a specific vintage watch, instead it is a blend of elements that give it a mid-20th century air, while also having modern conveniences like a 100 m water-resistance rating and a domed sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts The Archetype 0.0 has a “sector” dial with a gilt finish – glossy black lacquer with gold print – a perennial favourite that’s not novel but always appealing. Similar dials are attempted often, but because Massena Lab founder William Rohr is a veteran watch collector and industry insider, the Archetype 0.0 gets even the smallest elements right. The numerals, for instance, have tiny serifs, while the six is “open”, as they would be on vintage watches. And the darker print for the logo and sub-dials is another delightful detail. Although vintage in style, the case is unusual in that it’s not usually found with gilt, “sector” dials in vintage watches, making the combination novel in a subtle manner. Notably, the case is rated t...
Time+Tide
Want to know one of the highlights of 2020 for me? The Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1 of course. It was the first collaboration watch that Time+Tide has ever produced, and it was a thrill to be a part of the team that saw it come to life. But what’s been even more exciting than … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED: The Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1 sighted prowling in the wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“I run this whole thing. I run New York. I run this whole ship. Without me none of this happens. I run this whole sh*t.” That was Conor McGregor talking with characteristic modesty about his contribution to the UFC. In the process, he’s following the tradition of top fighters from time immemorial. That’s because putting … ContinuedThe post MMA fighter Michael Bisping won’t wear his gold Rolex because it makes him “feel like an absolute w*nker” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Maurice Lacroix has been making a big comeback over the last few years and, as Martin Green explains, this is largely thanks to offering excellent watches at very competitive prices. Watches like the new Masterpiece Triple Retrograde, which exudes quality and has a smile-inducing case and dial.
Revolution
With the new TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph, TAG Heuer and Porsche collaborate again on a chronometer that delivers performance and style in a sports watch.
Time+Tide
It’s late January, which means it’s LVMH Watch Week, an event where the watch departments of Bulgari, Hublot and Zenith unleash their new novelties for the year. For Hublot in 2021, we enjoyed a number of updates to existing collections, including a totally new colour of sapphire crystal in the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic, a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Originally slated to be the ultimate watch fair that would also include the major brands that departed Baselworld, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) did not take place in 2020 due to the pandemic and instead became a virtual show online, before being transported to China as an actual, physical fair. The event is returning in 2021 in exactly the same format, but with a far larger number of brands taking part. W&W; will happen online from April 7-13, where 38 brands will introduce their latest watches. The participants include nearly all of watchmaking’s major brands and conglomerates. All of Richemont’s brands will be present, including A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, and Vacheron Constantin, as will the brands owned by LVMH – TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith. The list of exhibitors also includes a handful of independent brands, but few are significant, save for Greubel Forsey. Most crucially, the twin giants of Geneva watchmaking will be taking part, giving the event far greater influence and a wider audience – Rolex and its sister brand Tudor, as well as Patek Philippe. Much like the traditional watch fair in Geneva, the online version of W&W; will be open to retailers, journalists, and select clients of the participating brands. W&W; Shanghai in 2020. Photo – Watches & Wonders And a few days later… With strong demand for luxury watches in China – where social and economic life is largely back to normal – W&W; will then take place as a physical fair in Shanghai once again, b...
Quill & Pad
There’s a new double-faced superstar in town: the De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon. Co-founder and chief watchmaker Denis Flageollet wanted to create a watch with two distinct identities, incorporating two sets of brand “DNA” on the same watch. He also wanted to use the brand’s signature, patented floating lugs to their fullest extent. Elizabeth Doerr thinks Flageollet succeeded in his goals and explains why here.
SJX Watches
Launched alongside the Chronomaster Sport at LVMH Watch Week, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver is a limited edition that’s a nod to Zenith’s long history of aviation watches – with a twist. While the style is the 1920s-inspired look typical of Zenith’s Pilot range, the new chronograph is dressed entirely in sterling silver, giving it a bright finish. Inspired by the aluminium bodies of vintage aircraft, the silver case will darken with time as the alloy oxidises, but the dial will remain pristine, protected by the case. Initial thoughts Zenith has been on a tear in recent years, introducing a diversity of watches, ranging from the Chronomaster Revival A385 to the mind-boggling Defy Inventor. Few of the new launches were Pilot models, resulting in a quiet spell for the line, a shame considering Zenith’s storied heritage in aviation watches. The new chronograph will no doubt do its part to revive the line. Pilot’s watches are often aesthetically conservative – not so here. The Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver is meant to stand out on the wrist, and I’m all for it. I had the opportunity to interact with a prototype, and the riveted, silver dial looks even better in the metal. The brushed surface has a shimmering quality that changes under different light, allowing it to catch the eye from every angle. Clad in silver The Chronograph Silver is cased in sterling silver, or 925, indicating it is 92.5% silver by weight. While not the first Pilot ...
Time+Tide
Hublot is no stranger to coloured sapphire cases, but never have we seen this delicious colour in any wrist-worn wonder, from Hublot or anyone else. ..Well, who else would be up for this flavour of Vitamin See that will have everybody eyeballing your wrist? As the boldest, brightest spark of colour in the LVMH Watch … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The juiced up Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Orange Sapphire adds another shade to the wristflex rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The new Arceau Grande Lune features a wider case and a deep blue dial with a sunburst motif. First revealed in 1978 by designer Henri d’Origny, the round watch was reinterpreted by imagining a classic and singular curve.
Quill & Pad
For those of you who are regular readers of GaryG's “Behind the Lens” series, it’s no secret that he and his watch pals are big fans of independent watchmaking. Here Gary points his lens up close to a rare McGonigle Tuscar One Of Ten.
Quill & Pad
Can a watch by Cartier really be underwhelming? Martin Green thinks so in the case of the new Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th anniversary limited edition. A stunning watch certainly, but so close to the 1921 original that he finds it just a bit too predictable. But that's not all that niggles him.
Time+Tide
We’ve all been there. It’s inevitable as a watch collector. You see a new watch that’s been released and immediately fall in love with it. You can’t get it out of your head, until you finally give in, and track one down in the metal. But once you have it in your hands, you realise … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED: 5 Instagram shots that show the Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection is even better in the wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The watch landscape has changed massively over the last 20 years with an increased trend towards in-house calibers. No longer is ETA the only outlet for brands to source movements with Sellita effectively cloning ETA ebauches and Japanese providers such as Seiko, Miyota, and Citizen filling the void for even more cost-effective solutions. That being … ContinuedThe post Watches by movement: From Tudor to Doxa, 7 watches powered by the ETA 2824 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Founded almost two decades ago, making one of the pioneers in contemporary watchmaking, Hautlence has long specialised in unusual, or even avant-garde, time display, like the chain-link hours in the Vortex. Boasting a three-dimensional spherical indicator, the new HL Sphere 02 is even more impressive, reimagining the familiar jumping hours complication as few have managed to do. A follow up to the original HL Sphere introduced last year, the HL Sphere 02 is essentially the same watch dressed more formally, replacing the muted blue-and-grey palette of the original version with a solid pink-gold dial. An animation of the transition from 10 to 11 o’clock Initial thoughts Though the HL Sphere 02 isn’t new, its spherical jumping hours remains novel and interesting. While conventional jumping hours operate on a single plane, relying on a flat disc that moves once an hour, the watch interprets the complication in a throughly different manner that is unique in watchmaking. In fact, the spherical jump hour is more impressive than Hautlence gets credit for. It is arguably on par with inventions like Urwerk’s satellite-cube time display, but because Hautlence isn’t as prominent as its peers – perhaps a consequence of changing management over the years – the brand’s complications don’t get as much recognition as they otherwise should. The HL Sphere 02 is almost identical to the original – the white gold, TV-shaped case and movement are the same – with the only ...
Time+Tide
Well. I don’t know if Nicki Minaj saw my recent story about six unexpected watch spots, which included Cristiano Ronaldo Jr. wearing his father’s Rolex – the most expensive one for sale at retail today. But it seems I may have been a little hasty in proclaiming Ronaldo Jr. the junior #wristgame champion. I genuinely believed … ContinuedThe post Nicki Minaj’s three-month-old son rocks a diamond-encrusted Nautilus worth $400K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: There’s no doubt that the Bulgari watch department is having a very big year. So far they have got hearts racing with the launch of their record-breaking Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, the new Octo Finissimo in satin-polished steel, and then their remarkable High-End Watch novelties. And if that wasn’t enough, there … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We go hands-on with the new Sinn R500 bullhead rally chronograph, a watch recreated from a historical model from the 1970s.
Deployant
Not a watch for the faint wristed, the newest iteration of the popular split second chronograph by Montblanc now comes in a burgundy colored dial. It is a retailer limited edition - Sincere edition with a limited edition of 8 pieces.
Revolution
Grand Seiko introduces a new limited edition watch with a Stainless Steel case and a deep brown dial to celebrate brand’s 60th anniversary, and ten years in the U.S. market. The watch symbolizes Japanese spirituality and love of nature, while also being distinctly American. Limited to 110 pieces.
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