Hodinkee
Hands-On: Tudor Re-Establishes Its Territory With The Ranger Ref. 79950
Solid sizing, great specs, and a fair price to boot? The new Ranger is what field watches are all about.
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Rune Bakkendorff Introduces the Moonwork Pendulum Clock
The result of a collaboration between a Danish clockmaker and design studio , the Moonwork is a tall, sculptural clock that stands almost two meters high. It’s an old-school pendulum clock in function but entirely contemporary in expression, from the thin, minimalist frame to the clever time display without hands. Danish clockmaker Rune Bakkendorff worked together with fellow Danes of design studio Ahm&Lund; to create the clock, which made its debut late last year at the Cabinetmakers Autumn Exhibit 2021, a Scandinavian furniture fair that took place in Copenhagen. The Moonwork at the furniture exhibition. Photo – Scandinaviandesign.com Initial thoughts A thoughtfully designed object, the Moonwork is attractive on several levels. At first glance, it is slender, simplistic, and hardly resembling a clock save for the pendulum. But paradoxically it is a clock, making the featureless time display is immediately intriguing. It is a clock, but not quite. The Moonwork does away with the conventional telling of the time and instead displays the lunar cycle – the moon phase is projected onto the white porcelain dome that forms the dial. An impractical but beautiful solution, this makes the Moonwork more of a sculpture that indicates the passing of the time. Remove the white porcelain dome and the entirely mechanical workings of the clock are revealed, although moon phase projection relies hundreds of LED bulbs that are hidden behind a silver sphere that rotates slowly to ca...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Legacy Machine Perpetual From MB&F;
Max Büsser and his cohorts at his horological think tank, MB&F;, have, without question, created a bewildering variety of watches over the years that have used horology as a jumping off point for the exploration of a highly idiosyncratic vocabulary of watchmaking, in which mechanics put themselves at the service of an aesthetics that freely mingles everything from pop culture to science fiction to sometimes alarming arachnomorphism, and beyond. However, what MB&F; thus far has largely not addressed itself to is the world of traditional complications – other than the tourbillon, used by MB&F; for its aesthetic impact, you will look in vain for anything beyond a simple calendar or a moonphase. Now, however, MB&F; and Büsser have gotten into the complications game in a big way: they’ve launched their own perpetual calendar, and, what’s more, they’ve done so with an in-house movement, with a variation on the perpetual calendar mechanism unlike anything we’ve seen so far.
Time+Tide
Rolex, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin… Just how big is Tom Cruise’s travelling watch roll?
Tom Cruise was on the mother of all press trips for Top Gun: Maverick and he obviously had the watch roll to back it up throughout his travels. Here is a comprehensive list of every watch we’ve spotted so far, from Cartier to Vacheron to Rolex and back to Cartier – it’s a wild ride … ContinuedThe post Rolex, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin… Just how big is Tom Cruise’s travelling watch roll? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A fantastic five of value proposition GMT watches
Prompted by Seiko’s bombshell release of the SKX Sports Style GMT – 5KX GMT for short – we sought to find other watches with GMT complications that compete in a similarly accessible space. While not necessarily restricted by budget, all of the pieces on this list offer one thing - a great value proposition at their … ContinuedThe post A fantastic five of value proposition GMT watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante in Platinum
Launched as part of the “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th anniversary collection in HoneyGold two years ago, the 1815 Rattrapante was the only one of the trio that was all-new model. In fact, it was the German watchmaker’s first pure-play split-seconds chronograph, and surprisingly svelte by its standards. Though the anniversary edition sold out swiftly, the watch is making a comeback with a platinum case and silver dial. A pleasing and familiar combination most often seen on its simpler models, the silver-and-blue livery is uncommon for Lange chronographs, which tend to have dark-coloured dials, making the new split-seconds unusual. The anniversary 1815 Rattrapante Initial thoughts Essentially variation of the original with different case and dial, the new 1815 Rattrapante is still noteworthy because the original in HoneyGold was limited to only 100 pieces but deserved a broader audience because it was appealing on several levels. The watch is thin and understated, unlike most Lange complications, but nevertheless boasts a movement with the visual depth and impeccable decoration typical of the brand. While the new model has the standard movement decoration instead of a frosted finish, the most obvious difference between the two is on the front. The platinum version has an understated, tone-on-tone look that I prefer over the high-contrast look of the anniversary model. While the all-silver look may seem too simple at a glance, it’s been given a bit of life with red...
Revolution
H. Moser & Cie Celebrates the 50th Anniversary of Cortina Watch
Jeremiah speaks with CEO and owner of H. Moser & Cie, Edouard Meylan, who was in Singapore to introduce a limited edition Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of local luxury watch retailer Cortina. The partnership between Moser and Cortina goes back two generations and looks set to grow in the Asia […]
Revolution
In Conversation with Mark Cho, Co-founder of The Armoury
Mark Cho, co-founder of classic menswear label The Armoury, stopped by the Revolution office to have a chat and a cigar with Wei Koh, and to share the amazing stories behind some of the rare pieces in his collection. Mark is an astute collector, all-round rake and just a really cool dude. You wouldn’t want […]
Time+Tide
Ryan Gosling reps TAG Heuer in new film “The Gray Man”
Almost exactly one year ago, the incredibly talented (and handsome) Ryan Gosling was announced as a TAG Heuer ambassador. When I covered this announcement, I noted that I was very excited to see how this partnership would develop. Today, we see a major fruit of this relationship in the form of a fitting wrist-cameo in … ContinuedThe post Ryan Gosling reps TAG Heuer in new film “The Gray Man” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Sarpaneva’s Latest is a Glow-in-the-Dark Fairytale Landscape
Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has once again turned to a Finnish artist for the Nocturne, a wristwatch that combines the technicolour luminosity of the brand’s Moomin editions with its trademark complication. Starkly monochromatic during the day, the multi-part dial comes to life at night, thanks to the nine colours of luminous paint that fill the hundreds of tiny apertures all precisely cut by laser. And sitting in the an window that occupies a third of the dial is a huge moon “face” that instantly marks this out as a Sarpaneva. Initial thoughts Though the Nocturne looks quite different from the brand’s past watches yet quintessentially Sarpaneva in style and execution. Although it relies on a similar decorative technique as the earlier Moomin edition, the Nocturne is far more distinct. And the slightly gothic style suits the Sarpaneva aesthetic perfectly. I like the design and being familiar with Sarpaneva’s other watches, I expect the quality of the dial to be excellent. In all tangible terms the watch is winner. But then there’s the price, which is substantial. The Nocturne costs €19,000. That’s within the ballpark for the brand’s moon-phase models, with the premium justified by the fancy dial. And compared to the broader market – especially with the current hype around independent watchmaking regardless of quality or provenance – it’s still a reasonable proposition. But it is pricey compared to Sarpaneva’s earlier offering...
SJX Watches
Audermars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Offshore “Music Edition”
A watchmaker with many a musician as brand ambassadors, Audemars Piguet has just unveiled a quintet of sports watches sporting a motif inspired by the digital display of a graphic equaliser, a piece of audio equipment used to vary the volume of frequency bands. Taking its inspiration quite literally, the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition has the familiar tapisserie dial pattern but dressed up with the vertical lines of the display on a graphic equaliser. And in its fanciest form, the latest model renders the equaliser motif in colour gemstones that continue onto the bezel. Initial thoughts As with many of the brand’s more extravagant releases, the Music Edition is almost tacky but manages to pull it off. Decidedly modern and very much over the top, the colourful chequerboard is a fun, striking look that distinguishes the watch from every other Royal Oak, which is an accomplishment given the strength of the octagonal design. Traditionalists will sure disprove of the way the tapisserie dial has been reinvented, but it is certainly in keeping with the bold and adventurous style of the Le Brassus watchmaker. And that has its appeal in moderate doses. The secret to such over-the-top watches is to do it infrequently and as long as AP doesn’t repeat this often or regularly, the Music Edition is different and cool. The dial of the gem-set model is blue aventurine glass, adding another layer of sparkle to the watch Between the two dials available, the gem-set versi...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: What Is Mecaquartz, And Why Is This 36mm Nivada Grenchen Datomaster So Cool?
A surprising Seiko movement allows Nivada to offer up the best of both worlds.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified
Hublot has always been known for pushing the envelope of material use in their latest releases. Contrary to that regular scheduling, LVMH Watch Week 2022 saw the release of the Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only. While certainly a more simplified take on a classic Hublot recipe, the Integrated Time Only (a change from the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary “Sector” Dial
A venerable retailer of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking, Shellman marks its 50th year in business. Still in its landmark Ginza store that curiously sits slightly below street level, the Tokyo retailer has announced a series of one-off and limited edition watches to mark the occasion. The latest commemorative edition is a pair from Habring², the Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary and Chrono-Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary, both featuring a discreet champagne-tone sector dial with thoughtful details. The flagship Shellman store in Tokyo’s Ginza district Initial thoughts Habring² offers honest quality and solid engineering, which makes it tangible qualities impeachable, especially in its price segment. So the appeal of a specific Habring² watch boils down to its specific design. While sector dials are common today, perhaps too common, Shellman was a pioneer in this type of design, having debuted its first Habring² with a sector dial in 2017, well before the style became a fad. For that reason, these anniversary watches have a stronger resonance than the average sector dial. The time-only And the two are also intrinsically appealing because of their careful design. At a distance both appear to be typical “sector” dials – attractive but more of the same. Up close, however, the dial designs are both smartly executed with strong attention to detail. The leaf-shape hands, for instance, are a familiar shape, but here they are heavier than usual, giving the ...
Time+Tide
Five of our favourite watch and fashion brand collaborations
Collaborations have been the headlining trend in the fashion world in recent times, serving as the perfect way to create excitement, owing to the generally limited nature of the releases. Naturally, it only makes sense for watch brands to jump onto the hype train, which is reflected in the number of joint ventures, whether that … ContinuedThe post Five of our favourite watch and fashion brand collaborations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Living on a Thin Line – Our pick for six ultra-thin watches
There is a certain obsession with ultra-thin watches in the scene, with manufacturers trying to outdo each other by producing the world’s thinnest timepieces. Earlier this year, Bvlgari launched the world’s thinnest mechanical timepiece, in the form of the 1.80mm thick Octo Finissimo Ultra. This effort was however bested by Richard Mille, who recently justRead More
Time+Tide
Here are the most beautiful quartz movements with open casebacks, with some hidden honourable mentions
Following last week’s review of the Grand Seiko SBGP017, and your comments on Instagram regarding the exhibition of quartz movements, we were inspired to find other quartz watches with equally beautiful movements that also chose to put them on display. It’s always been a rare sight to see a quartz watch with a display caseback, … ContinuedThe post Here are the most beautiful quartz movements with open casebacks, with some hidden honourable mentions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Every Watch Tells A Story: Asmini’s Longines DolceVita
Some watch enthusiasts obsess over the concept of a one-watch collection, gathering huge lists of specifications that would make their dream daily wearer capable of everything and anything. The truth is that all a watch really needs to do is tell the time and last the miles, which is exactly what Asmini’s Longines DolceVita L5.158.4.16.6 … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: Asmini’s Longines DolceVita appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: Casio Makes A Watch For Damn Near Everyone
From inexpensive world timers to hand-finished marvels of modern technology, nobody casts a wider net.
Time+Tide
The refreshing Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer
The brief at Brellum is usually quite simple, I presume. Create well-specced watches, in limited numbers, while minimising mark-ups. That last part is an often-heard filler for independent brands, but it’s also where Brellum differs from many - offering proper substance. The new Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer happens to be one of the more … ContinuedThe post The refreshing Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Ranger Ref. 79950
Conceived as a watch for explorers, the Ranger arrived in its current form with an Arabic-numeral dial in the 1960s, although the name dates to 1929. Although the model was revived in 2014, it never really caught on. Now that looks set to change with the brand-new Ranger that’s a subtly but substantial upgrade over its predecessor. Now housed in a better-proportioned case that now contains an in-house movement, the new Ranger becomes Tudor’s most affordable watch with a proprietary movement, thanks to its retail price that starts well under US$3,000. Initial thoughts For watchmaker that excels in affordable, reliable watches, the Ranger makes a lot of sense as it condenses Tudor’s key strengths in a compact, affordable package. The latest version of the model is equipped with the brand’s state-of-the-art features, including an in-house movement and the “T-fit” micro-adjustment clasp, but is priced at just US$2,725 on strap. In fact, the Ranger almost seems like Tudor intentionally making a point that it delivers arguably the best quality-to-price ratio in Swiss watchmaking. It is difficult, maybe impossible, to find another watch with the same tangible qualities for the same price. Aside from its technical features, the new Ranger is an intrinsically appealing watch, largely because it has better proportions and details than earlier version. Now 39 mm wide instead of 41 mm, the case is more appropriately given the design and historical inspiration. The diame...
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The Cartier Crash, The Last Word In High-Impact Horology
From mod moment to modern classic.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Time+Tide Club swings by Vacheron
Hello everyone - Borna here! Thank you to Zach for letting me hijack this portion of the FWD. Last night, through the joint efforts of the Time+Tide Club and the Vacheron Constantin boutique in Melbourne, two dozen of our club members squeezed into the cosy store. Chit-chat was had before a presentation by Warren Ho, boutique … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Time+Tide Club swings by Vacheron appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
5 of the best watches worn by women on-screen
There’s no shortage of great timepieces in film and television, from the Rolexes and Omegas of the James Bond films (featuring a slate of deadly accoutrements), to the Speedmaster worn by Tom Hanks in Apollo 13, but what about the wristwear of women on-screen? It’s out there if you’re looking, and there’s a lot to … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best watches worn by women on-screen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium
A French watchmaking startup founded in 2017 that successfully reimagined several well-known vintage designs, Baltic has just unveiled highest-spec dive watch to date – and arguably its most contemporary design. While still clearly vintage-inspired in terms of aesthetics, the Aquascaphe Titanium does better than its predecessor in terms of materials, construction, as well as water resistance. The result is a more substantial watch that’s pricier but still value minded. The bezel insert is brushed ceramic with luminous markings Initial thoughts For a brand that’s heavily reliant on vintage watches for insrpaiton, the Aquascaphe Titanium is a welcome departure from its other offerings. Granted it still retains a retro feel, but does so with materials that are decidedly modern, namely ceramic and titanium. On the subject of materials, one aspect that distinguishes the new Aquascaphe is the highly-domed sapphire crystal that calls to mind PlexiGlas found on vintage watches. Rarely found in modern dive watches at this price, most of which utilise flat crystals, the domed crystal results in slight visual distortion of the dial’s edges, which might not help legibility but certainly adds to the vintage feel. Another key detail that contributes to the appealing vintage styling is the all-brushed finish on both the case and bezel, along with the tasteful typography, which speak to the brand’s attention to detail. At the same time, the design that combines smart details w...
Hodinkee
Auctions: Toto Wolff Designed A Watch With IWC, And Now He's Auctioning It Off For Charity
How a watch company is pushing to increase diversity and inclusion within motorsport.
Deployant
New: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition
Audemars Piguet presents 5 new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding models interpreted in 37mm and 43mm case sizes to celebrate world of music.
SJX Watches
Richard Mille Unveils the Thinnest Mechanical Watch Ever
Having signed Ferrari as a partner last year, Richard Mille was expected to debut a Ferrari wristwatch – and probably one with a seven-figure price tag. And so it has, although the watch itself is certainly a surprise. The first watch to result from the partnership is the RM UP-01 Ferrari, the thinnest mechanical watch ever at just 1.75 mm high, besting the previous record holder by 0.05 mm. Very wide and extremely flat, the RM UP-01 achieves that by relying on familiar principles in terms of mechanical deconstruction and reduction, but takes them slightly further to shave off the millimetres. Initial thoughts The last couple of years have seen the record for the thinnest mechanical watch change hands rapidly, with Piaget taking the title in 2018 with the AUC (that came to market in 2020), followed by Bulgari earlier this year with the Octo Finissimo Ultra. The Italian jeweller did not retain the crown for long because Richard Mille has just claimed the title with the RM UP-01 that stands 1.75 mm high, compared to 1.8 mm for the Bulgari. Tellingly, the approach taken by Richard Mille echoes that of Piaget and Bulgari, essentially deconstructing the movement and doing away with as many components as possible. As a result, the RM UP-01 has parallels with the former record holders, most obviously in the tiny time display as well as the deconstructed winding and setting mechanism that each require a key. That indicates that absolute thinness has more or less been achieved...
Time+Tide
The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer
For years, in the circles I’m a part of, watch collectors have been asking a simple question. As watch prices continue to skyrocket, who in the bloody hell is buying pieces at these premiums? Premiums that are two, three, sometimes four times the original retail price. We all agree that there are ridiculously wealthy people … ContinuedThe post The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet’s AP House: A New York City Eyewitness Account
What, exactly, is the AP House? That’s a question Brendan Cunningham thinks that he is unlikely be able to fully describe here, but gives it his best shot to describe the fairly novel concept that Audemars Piguet has revealed around the globe over the past few years.