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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater ‘Romantic Note’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Dec 1, 2019

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater ‘Romantic Note’

Originally set up by Vacheron Constantin to build custom or bespoke watches upon client commission – like this minimalist grand complication – Les Cabinotiers has undergone a subtle evolution since chief executive Louis Ferla took over in 2017. Les Cabinotiers now creates a small collection of one-off timepieces each year. Most are marketed to the firm’s top clients, typically at a luxe but low-key annual event, but a selection is launched at SIHH. This year’s Les Cabinotiers presentation is now taking place in Singapore, and amongst the watches unveiled is the graceful Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘Romantic Note’. The watch has a largish 41mm pink gold case in the style of the Traditionnelle line, which means straight, simple lines, giving it a fairly modern look. But the dial is eminently classical: eggshell-coloured fired enamel with all the markings, namely the railway minute track and numerals, done in black enamel, matched with Breguet-style hands. Reminiscent of the asymmetrical Historiques 1921, the dial is unusual in its typography – the numerals look like Breguet numerals but are not quite, instead they are slightly more italicised, with less line variation, and heavier in weight. The movement inside is the cal. 1731, the slim, hand-wound movement that’s also found in the regular-production Patrimony minute repeater. It features a centrifugal governor for the repeater. Key facts and price Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ...

Vault Introduces the V2 in Red Carbon-Ceramic Composite SJX Watches
Nov 29, 2019

Vault Introduces the V2 in Red Carbon-Ceramic Composite

Vault, a Swiss watch brand founded in 2013 by Mark Schwarz, has just unveiled the V2+ Red CC, a unique, left-handed variant of its unusual approach to time-telling. Inspired by a bank vault’s time lock mechanism – Mr Schwarz was both a police officer and banker earlier in his career – the brand’s watches feature a time display based on a planetary gear system, where each hour marker is actually a functioning planetary gear that travels around the dial. All of that ingenious mechanics is courtesy of UhrTeil, the complication and manufacturing outfit led by Andreas Strehler. Novel case material The new V2+ Red CC differs from earlier models with its left-handed crown and novel case material. The case is made of carbon-ceramic composite, which gives it the properties of both its constituent materials – the lightness and strength of carbon as well as the hardness of ceramic. Basically, ceramic is layered in between sheets of carbon, which is then submerged polymer and baked an autoclave to create the block of composite material. As a result, it retains the distinctive striped pattern of carbon composite. The tonneau-shaped case has a complex, multi-faceted design made up of five parts and is curved on two axis, allowing it to sit well on the wrist. It measures 39mm by 46.7mm and 15mm in height, which is thick but a necessity. That’s because the movement is essentially an automatic base calibre with a planetary display module on top. And as in the realm of such e...

The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch #3 … “It’s A Symbol Of Moral Resistance Against The Spiritual Decay Of Modern Life” Time+Tide
Nov 29, 2019

The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch #3 … “It’s A Symbol Of Moral Resistance Against The Spiritual Decay Of Modern Life”

NOTE: We understand that you’ve found a new watch to add to your collection (congratulations!). But rationalising this fact – coupled with the fact that it’ll cost a bucket-load of cash – may not always sit well with the less horologically minded. That’s where we come in … Use The Enabler’s advanced levels of sophistry … ContinuedThe post The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch #3 … “It’s A Symbol Of Moral Resistance Against The Spiritual Decay Of Modern Life” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edition SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Nov 29, 2019

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edition

Launched in 2016, the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T remains the most affordable Swiss-made chronograph with touribllon, starting at just US$17,000. Despite the price, the Calibre Heuer 02T is an in-house movement that’s automatic, COSC-certified, and equipped with a lightweight flying tourbillon that has a carbon composite upper carriage and titanium base. The latest variant of the affordable “grand” complication is a limited edition made for Singapore retailer Cortina Watch. Dressed in orange and back, the Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edition is being offered only online, via the retailer’s website. As with the standard model, the case measures 45mm wide and 16.4mm high. It features the modular construction that characterises the Carrera line. The case middle is black-coated titanium paired with a black ceramic bezel, while the lugs, pushers and crown are steel. The dial is semi-skeletonised to reveal the grey, sandblasted base plate of the movement. Orange accents are applied to the dial and bezel, including the chronograph hands, and even the carbon composite upper cage of the tourbillon, creating a striking contrast with the black components. Mechanically the movement is identical to the standard Heuer 02T. Based on the CH-80 chronograph movement, it’s equipped with a column wheel and vertical clutch for the chronograph. And it has a 65-hour power reserve, with the balance running at a frequency of 4Hz. Key facts and price TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edi...

In-Depth: Commissioning the Voutilainen GMT-Villes Custom Time Zone Watch SJX Watches
Rado x Nov 28, 2019

In-Depth: Commissioning the Voutilainen GMT-Villes Custom Time Zone Watch

Voutilainen watches are well loved for their dials, which are made in-house and offered with a myriad of finishes – primarily guilloché or enamel – as well as numerous colours and appliques. But unconstrained freedom leads to hesitation, and too many choices make a decision difficult. American psychologist Barry Schwartz, writing in The Paradox of Choice, notes that consumers are often happier having to choose from fewer options, rather than more. The author’s custom GMT-Villes But in my own collecting, perhaps the opposite is true. When I work with an independent watchmaker on a custom or bespoke watch, exploring the abundance of possibilities is the main attraction, particularly when I can specify the details face to face with the watchmaker himself. Investing sufficient time to figure out my goal makes the process of choosing not a task to be feared, but an enjoyable journey leading to the unique piece. This is my story of commissioning the GMT-Villes from Kari Voutilainen (which happened slightly before I embarked on a similar project with Andreas Strehler). Kari Voutilainen in his showroom. Image – FHH The beginning of custom work After setting up his own workshop in 2002, Kari, then 40 years old, made his debut as an independent watchmaker with the Masterpiece series of wristwatches, starting with Masterpiece 6 unveiled at Baselworld in 2005. The Masterpiece watches were all one-off minute repeaters relying on rebuilt and finely decorated vintage ebauches ma...

The Vacheron Constantin Heures Créatives Heure Audacieuse Watch I Wore To Watchmaking’s Most Glamorous Night, The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Heures Créatives Heure Audacieuse Nov 28, 2019

The Vacheron Constantin Heures Créatives Heure Audacieuse Watch I Wore To Watchmaking’s Most Glamorous Night, The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)

Vacheron Constantin is quite accomplished in an area of watchmaking that the average enthusiast of the brand rarely thinks about: the decorative, mechanical ladies’ watch, ideally perfect for an elegant event like a ball or a night out at the opera. Or the horological equivalent, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève's red-carpet ceremony. Check out the beauty that Elizabeth Doerr had the pleasure of wearing to the 2019 event.

Kikuchi Nakagawa Introduces the Murakumo White Dial SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 96 considered Nov 28, 2019

Kikuchi Nakagawa Introduces the Murakumo White Dial

Unveiled last year as the debut product of Kikuchi Nakagawa, the Murakumo is modelled on the 1930s Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96, considered by its founders as the ideal classical men’s wristwatch. Originally available only with a matte black dial, Kikuchi Nakagawa has now unveiled its inverse – the Murakumo with white dial and black numerals. Black polishing Founded by a pair of Japanese watchmakers, Yusuke Kikuchi and Tomonari Nakagawa – with Mr Nakagawa having worked at Citizen as it developed the tourbillon – the brand is all about two things: components supplied by the very best Japanese specialists (save for the dial and movement), and exceptional black polishing of all the external steel parts. The three-dimensional hands are made by precision machine shop Yuki Precision, while the case and buckle are courtesy of Matsuura Works. The parts are all black polished by hand, creating a remarkably flat, mirror-like surface. With some Swiss help The dial on the other hand, comes from Swiss supplier Gilwatch, located in Geneva. Particular attention was paid to the printed numerals, which require several layers of pad printing in order to give them height. Also from Switzerland is the movement, which is a Vaucher VMF 5401. Though high quality in finish and construction – variants of the same calibre are used by Hermes, Richard Mille and Parmigiani – the movement is relatively pedestrian compared to the rest of the Murakumo. That being said, Kikuchi Nakagawa...

Dubai Watch Week 2019: Talking With Hind Seddiqi And Reflections On The Fair Quill & Pad
Nov 27, 2019

Dubai Watch Week 2019: Talking With Hind Seddiqi And Reflections On The Fair

Dubai Watch Week (DWW) is like no other fair. There is no obvious commercial aspect to the event, and watches (and watchmakers) are there for the public’s appreciation rather than that of retailers and distributors (like Baselworld and the SIHH). Here Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at what makes DWW so special based on a conversation with the fair's director general Hind Seddiqi.

Casio Introduces the G-Shock “Full Titanium” Camouflage SJX Watches
Casio Introduces Nov 25, 2019

Casio Introduces the G-Shock “Full Titanium” Camouflage

Just a few months after the G-Shock 5000-series in titanium was unveiled, Casio has announced the G-Shock GMW-B5000TCM-1, which is essentially the same but with an unusual, laser-engraved camouflage pattern on the case and bracelet. The pattern is achieved by varying the size of the pixels that make up the camouflage motif; three different pixel sizes are engraved to create shading of the camouflage. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard titanium model, which means a sapphire crystal, black screen and gold accents. The case is in lightweight titanium case and bracelet – coated in black diamond-like carbon (DLC) – weighing just 110g in total. (Editor’s note: I handled one just last week and it’s a cool-looking watch that light on the wrist, but the price is pretty steep for what it is, though it’s probably worth the premium just for the cool factor.) Also announced at the same time is the G-Shock MTG-B1000DCM-1A, which has the same engraved camouflage pattern, except on the steel case and bracelet that have a black ion-plated (IP) coating. G-Shock MTG-B1000DCM-1A Key facts and price G-Shock “Full Titanium” in camouflage print Ref. GMW-B5000TCM-1JR Diameter: 43.2mm Height: 13mm Material: Titanium engraved with camouflage pattern and coated with DLC Water resistance: 200m Movement: Electronic Functions: Multi-function electronic with Bluetooth connectivity Winding: Solar-powered Power reserve: 22 months Strap: Titanium bracelet Limited edit...

Omega Introduces the James Bond Limited Edition Set SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Nov 25, 2019

Omega Introduces the James Bond Limited Edition Set

Omega is slowly counting down to the latest James Bond film, No Time to Die, which is scheduled for April 2020, with a trickle of 007-themed watches. Just two months ago it debuted a Seamaster Diver 300M to mark half a century of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (OHMSS),  and now it’s the release of a box set of two watches in steel and gold respectively, presented in a suitcase by British luggage maker Globe-Trotter. Limited to 257, the James Bond Limited Edition Set is made up of a pair of Seamaster dive watches almost identical to the earlier OHMSS edition but without the date. Both are essentially variants of the 42mm Seamaster Diver 300M but tweaked to incorporate several references to 007. The stainless-steel model features a black ceramic bezel insert with a white enamel scale, while the yellow gold version has a scale of Ceragold, which is ceramic with gold filling for the markings. Both have black ceramic dials engraved with the gun barrel motif taken from the title sequence of James Bond films. The hands and indices of both models are yellow gold, with the 12 o’clock marker inspired by the fictional Bond family coat of arms. A subtle detail is the “50” embedded within the luminous marker at ten o’clock, visible only in the dark, a nod to the 50th anniversary of OHMSS. And there’s also the tiny “007” that takes the place of the marker on the minute track. A commemorative plate bearing the set serial number is screwed into the side of the case, ...

Bulgari CEO drops an Octo Finissimo Chronograph on the ground to make a point Time+Tide
Bulgari CEO drops Nov 24, 2019

Bulgari CEO drops an Octo Finissimo Chronograph on the ground to make a point

I like interviewing Jean-Christophe Babin. There is a playfulness to the Bulgari CEO; in fact, I’d go so far as to say there’s a wickedness to his personality that makes the exchange unpredictable. You don’t know what’s going to happen, or what direction the conversation will take. But wherever it goes, it’s almost always with … ContinuedThe post Bulgari CEO drops an Octo Finissimo Chronograph on the ground to make a point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Timeless And Under The Radar: Three New Classics From Montblanc, Baume & Mercier, And Nomos Glashütte Quill & Pad
Montblanc Baume & Mercier Nov 22, 2019

Timeless And Under The Radar: Three New Classics From Montblanc, Baume & Mercier, And Nomos Glashütte

There were many highlights setting new benchmarks in terms of technology and design in 2019; unfortunately most of these statement pieces are quite expensive, often out of reach, and not made for everyday wear. Taking a look beyond the limelight, Sabine Zwettler spotted three intriguing variations of existing timepieces from Montblanc, Baume & Mercier, and Nomos Glashütte that make a serious statement on the wrist without breaking the bank.

Ressence Introduces the Type 1DXB Dubai Edition SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces Nov 22, 2019

Ressence Introduces the Type 1DXB Dubai Edition

Created for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the Middle East, to mark Dubai Watch Week 2019, the Type 1DXB is an unusual twist on the typically minimalist Ressence design. Though the watch retains the brand’s signature orbital disc time display, the dial has been skeletonised in a geometric motif inspired by traditional patterns found in Arabic and Islamic culture. Unlike most watches made for the Middle East that sport Eastern Arabic numerals, this is is literally an Arabic dial. The dial is sand-coloured and finishes with a matte, granular surface, matched with white Super-Luminova. Visible through the dial are the gears that drive the unusual time display, all contained within a proprietary Ressence module sitting on top of an ETA 2892 base moment. The 41mm case is square in form, identical to that of the Type 1 Squared. But it is made of titanium, instead of steel as is standard for the Type 1 Squared. And as is standard for Ressence, time setting and winding is done via the case back, hence the lack of a crown. The Type 1DXB is limited to 19 watches, available only at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Key facts and price Type 1DXB Case diameter: 41mm Height: 11mm Material: Titanium Water resistance: 10m Movement: ROCS 1 (base ETA 2892) Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day of the week Frequency: 28,800 (4Hz) Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 36 hours Strap: Calfskin with titanium buckle Limited edition: 19 pieces Availability: Only at Ahmed Sedd...

How to justify your next watch #2, the ‘Hey, it could be coke and hookers’ defence Time+Tide
Nov 22, 2019

How to justify your next watch #2, the ‘Hey, it could be coke and hookers’ defence

NOTE: The problem is that some people just don’t get it. They don’t understand how important, nay, how essential, your next watch is. Not just to your happiness, but also to your sense of purpose, your ability to be a complete person. Against the blockers in your life, we have a new weapon. The Enabler. He is … ContinuedThe post How to justify your next watch #2, the ‘Hey, it could be coke and hookers’ defence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vintage Vacheron with a two-year warranty hit the Melbourne boutique for a short time, and until sold out Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin boutique Nov 21, 2019

Vintage Vacheron with a two-year warranty hit the Melbourne boutique for a short time, and until sold out

What a time to be alive for Melbourne watch lovers. The embarrassment of riches in terms of local brand boutiques has had another glittering jewel added to the CBD war chest as T+T welcomed guests to an evening at the brand new Vacheron Constantin boutique at the ‘Paris end’ of Collins Street. Last night we … ContinuedThe post Vintage Vacheron with a two-year warranty hit the Melbourne boutique for a short time, and until sold out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph “Blue Angels” SJX Watches
Breitling Nov 20, 2019

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph “Blue Angels”

Having recently coming a licensee of the U.S. Navy Flight Demonstration Squadron, better known as the Blue Angels, IWC is marking the occasion with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels”. Already the longtime licensee for the U.S. Navy Fighter Weapons School – hence the Pilot’s Watch Top Gun editions – IWC is the latest watchmaker to sign with the Blue Angels. The team has had several watchmakers become licensees over the years, first Breitling in the 1990s, followed by Citizen. The new Blue Angels chronograph is in blue and yellow, the colours of the Blue Angels’ emblem. The dial is a dark, metallic blue with a yellow track for the hours. The case is in matte black ceramic and measures 44.5mm wide. The Blue Angels logo engraved on the back Inside is the cal. 89361, the brand’s top of the line, in-house chronograph. It’s an automatic movement with IWC’s signature Pellaton winding mechanism. The chronograph has both a flyback function as well as the hour and minute registers co-axial at 12 o’clock. Key facts and price Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels” Ref. IW389008 Diameter: 44.5mm Height: 15.7mm Material: Black ceramic Water resistance: 60m Movement: Cal. 89361 Functions: Time, date, and flyback chronograph Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour, or 4Hz Power reserve: 68 hours Strap: Blue calfskin Limited edition: No Availability: From November 2019, at both boutiques and retailers Price: US$...

De Bethune Introduces the Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Nov 20, 2019

De Bethune Introduces the Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia

Shaped like an extraterrestrial seashell, the De Bethune Dream Watch 5 (DW5) is the brand’s most striking timepiece. It’s simple in function – showing just the time and moon phase – but more of a time-telling object than a mere watch. The new Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia is the opposite of the sleek, smooth finish of the original Dream Watch. The rose gold case is fully engraved with a motif from Les Cités obscures, or The Obscure Cities, a series of graphic novels by Belgian duo François Schuiten and Benoît Peeters. Specifically, the engraving depicts Armilia, an underground city of the novels that’s shaped like an armillary sphere. François Schuiten’s original drawing of Armilia Responsible for the engraving is Michele Rothen Rebetez, a freelance engraver based in Le Locle who has worked with De Bethune for several years, most recently on the Maestri Art I and II. Instead of the deeper, relief engraving that Ms Rothen Rebetez typically uses for watches, the DW5 Armilia is finished with banknote style engraving, made up of numerous fine, shallow lines to create depth and shadow. The DW5 is produced in two sizes, and the DW5 Armilia is in the larger, 58mm size. Mechanically, it is identical to the standard DW5, with the time indicated in a narrow window, along with the spherical moon phase display, both framed in blued titanium. The cal is 18k rose gold, while the crown is topped with a 1-carat blue sapphire.   Key facts and price Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia R...