Hodinkee
Hands-On: Citizen's Lume-Dial Promaster Aqualand Is Fun When The Lights Go Out
As the Promaster Aqualand turns 40, Mark takes a look at the newest lume-dial release that hit U.S. shores last year.
3,880 articles · 367 videos found · page 74 of 142
Hodinkee
As the Promaster Aqualand turns 40, Mark takes a look at the newest lume-dial release that hit U.S. shores last year.
WatchAdvice
I took the Panthère de Cartier in 18K yellow gold for review, and from the moment I held it, the watch’s elegance and refinement were undeniable. Cartier has once again proven that true luxury isn’t about complexity—it’s about timeless design, effortless wearability, and an unmistakable presence on the wrist. What We Love: The timepiece has a well-balanced design that sits elegantly on the wrist. The white dial perfectly complements the gold case, bezel and bracelet. The gold model, as expected, gives a more luxury appeal compared to the other variants of the timepiece and has a shine that is hard to take your eyes away from! What We Don’t: Lack of micro-adjustment on the bracelet for a better snug fit. Due to the highly polished finish of the gold, the timepiece is prone to scratching While the gold is stunning on the wrist, it doesn’t offer the same versatility as the steel for everyday wear. Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Cartier is renowned for crafting timepieces that strike the perfect balance between subtle elegance and distinctive flair, allowing them to stand out without being overtly flashy. The brand’s mastery lies in its use of unconventional shapes and design elements that enhance a watch’s character without overpowering its essence. The Panthère de Cartier is a perfect example of this philosophy—its design is simple and refined, yet beneath its understated appearance...
Hodinkee
Ushering in the latest generation of Citizen's Ana-Digi do-it-all sports watch.
Monochrome
For a brand that has consolidated its image on tool watches inspired by cockpit instruments, the choice of material forms an integral part of the identity of its watches. The BR-X5, the larger, more resilient, more radical brother of the BR-05 luxury sports watch, returns this year with a new lightweight titanium case. Still delivering […]
WatchAdvice
A bold tribute to speed, precision, and racing heritage, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull Racing brings the adrenaline of Formula 1 to the wrist. As TAG Heuer gears up to reclaim its role as Formula 1’s official timekeeper in 2025, this release feels like the perfect way to celebrate the brand’s deep-rooted connection to motorsport. What We Love: Oracle Red Bull Racing colours on the dial make the watch stand out beautifully The case doesn’t feel too overbearing on the wrist, even with a 44mm case size. The rubber strap is comfortable to wear, making this a great daily timepiece for Formula 1 and Oracle Red Bull Racing enthusiasts! What We Don’t: Black DLC case like the other TAG Heuer models in latest Formula 1 series would have made the dial and strap pop even more! The dial can seem rather busy with the many different design elements An open case back would have made it perfect! Showing the engine inside this racing-inspired timepiece. Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 There are very few brands in the world of watchmaking that share a deep connection with Motorsport as TAG Heuer. Since the mid-20th century, TAG Heuer has been a driving force in precision timing, cementing its place on the wrists of many racing legends. From Steve McQueen’s Monaco in Le Mans to its long-standing presence in Formula 1, TAG Heuer has always embraced the high-octane world of motorsport. Thi...
Video
Hands-on with the new IWC VENTURER VERTICAL DRIVE a watch designed for space.
Monochrome
Racing chronographs… It might not be as packed as a category as dive watches, but in all fairness, finding the right one for you is not going to be a walk in the park. Hundreds of alternatives (and good ones, on top of that) exist, ranging from affordable quartz models to attainable Swiss mechanical options, […]
WatchAdvice
Building on the success of the yellow gold 222 reissue in 2022, Vacheron Constantin started its 270th-anniversary celebration in full swing this year with the introduction of the 222 in Steel, a long-awaited addition to its Historiques collection. What We Love: Timeless design of the 222 lives on. The stunning matte blue dial does justice to this timepiece, making it even more appealing. Case and bracelet design is exceptional with modern finishes. What We Don’t: Lack of micro-adjustment on bracelet. Lack of finishing on movement (skeletonised rotor perhaps?) Water resistance of 50m could be improved to offer better assurance for daily wearability. Overall Rating: 8.95/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 In January 2025, Vacheron Constantin kicked off its 270th-anniversary celebrations in spectacular fashion with the highly anticipated release of the 222 in steel. 2025 is shaping up to be an incredible year in the watch world, with many brands celebrating their anniversaries, but none quite like Vacheron Constantin. There are only a few brands that have surpassed the 250-year anniversary mark, which, when you think about it, is quite astonishing. Vacheron Constantin is one of those brands, but even more rare is that they have been in continuous production since 1755, a feat that remains unmatched in the world of horology. Over its 270-year history, Vacheron Constantin has created some genuinely timeless watches. From the FiftyS...
Worn & Wound
I’ve always had a bit of a thing for character watches. I know they’re divisive, but a character watch - whether it be a ridiculously expensive Spider-Man AP or a cheap quartz Armitron with a basketball-playing Bugs Bunny on the dial - can help create a shockingly profound connection between a watch and its wearer and be (when done well) a fun reminder not to take watches too seriously. I’ve owned a lot of character watches. Many of my earliest and most favorite childhood watches, if they weren’t Timex Ironmans, were character watches, and even today, I still find myself picking up a character watch here and there, though they rarely stick in my collection for very long. Most find their way to their next owners as gifts - a vintage Snoopy tennis watch went to my mother, while the aforementioned Bugs Bunny Armitron now sits on my younger brother’s wrist most days (though, much to my annoyance, he pointedly refuses to put a battery in it). Still, most of the character watches I’ve owned over the years have found their way into the trash or were lost in various moves or purges because, for as delightful a thing as character watches are, most aren’t that good, at least as watches. To generalize wildly, most character watches I’ve owned have felt, at best, transient and, at worst, disposable (admittedly, I’ve never owned an AP Spider-Man watch, so I can’t speak to that experience). Still, my love for the concept remains, and when a watch comes along t...
Monochrome
Slightly overlooked and possibly in the shadows of the classic Seamaster Diver 300M, the Planet Ocean is the most capable collection of dive watches in Omega’s range, comprising models from 600m up to 6000m water-resistance (without counting the all-mighty Ultra-Deep that survived the Mariana Trench). Born in 2005, it will be celebrating its 20th anniversary […]
SJX Watches
Launched a few months ago, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” 43 mm is Audemars Piguet’s first collaboration with Kaws, the contemporary artist best known for work inspired by Mickey Mouse and The Simpsons. While the Kaws edition is not the first AP pop culture collab, it is arguably the best. Initial thoughts I like the Royal Oak Concept Kaws, more than any of AP’s other pop culture collaborations. I like the aesthetic, feel, and execution (though not the oversized case), which put this amongst the best contemporary art crossovers in watchmaking. The Hublot-Murakami series is another outstanding artist-watchmaker collab, but the AP-Kaws watch is executed to a much higher level of quality (and price). Visually, the Kaws is big and bold, but rendered in muted, monochromatic grey – a paradoxical but complementary combination. At a distance the watch seems like yet another oversized Royal Oak, but up close it gets more interesting, starting with the fact that it has no hands in the traditional sense. The lack of hands (which are replaced with peripheral pointers) make this a little more interesting, since the cal. 2979 is a new movement that’s a variant of AP’s more conventional tourbillon calibre. I appreciate the fact that the movement was developed for this watch, both in order to accommodate the figure on the dial and to incorporate the “padded” Kaws aesthetic into the movement bridges on the back. Adding a mechanical complication to the Kaws s...
Video
Hands on review of the Hamilton Khaki Mechanical Power Reserve
Worn & Wound
For most of my watch-buying life, fun dive watches have mostly been big dive watches. Colorful, loud, capable waterproof options have tended to correspond with case dimensions of equal impact and presence, while the sub-40mm dive watch space has belonged to relatively sedate interpretations of the classic dive watch formula - and even then, 39mm has been the sweet spot for ‘small’ divers. But over the last few release cycles (if those even exist anymore), we’ve started to see signs of a shift, and I can think of few better examples of this change than the Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648, released last year as part of Zenith’s grand re-entry into the dive space. Last summer, I got to spend a few weeks with the Zenith Defy Revival Diver’s bigger, brasher brother, the Defy Extreme Diver, and I came away wildly impressed. The Defy Extreme Diver was a watch that punched way above its weight class (or at least its price point) while feeling like a genuinely novel take on a modern dive watch from a brand with shockingly little history in the space. So when I had the chance to spend some time with that watch’s vintage-inspired counterpart, I jumped. This extended visit with the Revival Diver wasn’t my first hands-on experience with the watch - I got to spend a few minutes with it when I went to pick up the Extreme Diver back in June - but on that day, I didn’t find myself particularly taken with the Revival. While I’ve long admired Zenith’s dual identity...
Worn & Wound
One of my favorite games to play when visiting family is something I like to call “Guess, That, Price!” Here’s how it works: I excitedly dump out my rolls and pouches to reveal to the group what watches I have in for review at that time. They then pour over the details, proudly identifying the features of each watch, and then guess the retail price of each piece to see who comes the closest. On my most recent episode of “Guess, That, Price!” I had with me a trio of watches, one of which being the new MK II Fulcrum 39. As it made its rounds, they began calling out features such as the bezel action, the weight of the watch, and the overall rugged visual appearance. When prompted, the three contestants gave me their estimated MSRP of $22,000, $26,000, and finally $31,000. Yes, they are pretty bad at this game. However, what they lack in accuracy is made up for in providing an interesting data point for me. This watch has the potential to carry a higher perceived value than its actual asking price which is not something that typically happens. It pushed me to explore the watch further. From the outset, I’ll admit I was a little disappointed with the new Fulcrum. A massive fan of MK II and Tornek-Rayville, I had inflated expectations that this piece would blow me away. To put it bluntly, this is my least favorite watch they have produced to date. I hate that I am writing that, and I hate that I am admitting that, but at the end of the day sometimes things fall sho...
Monochrome
The name Tank at Cartier means far more than just a watch… It’s an entire range of watches, all distinguished by some design elements first defined by the so-called Tank Normale of 1917. From there, the collection expanded to dozens of designs, such as the Tank Louis Cartier, the Cintrée, the Française and the Asymétrique, […]
Revolution
Monochrome
Orologi Calamai isn’t a household name in the industry, but this small Italian brand has been producing intriguing, aeronautical-inspired watches since its founding in 2012. Unfortunately, MONOCHROME can’t cover the entire array of small, independent brands out there (we try, believe me), but Orologi Calamai definitely caught our eye, and we’ve covered them in the […]
Worn & Wound
It’s not entirely uncommon for my first encounter with a brand to be when they inquire about attending Windup Watch Fairs. There are a lot of brands out there, more every year, so it’s hard to keep up with every new launch. Conveniently, Windup is a great way for new brands to meet enthusiasts and potential customers (sorry, this wasn’t meant to be a Windup pitch), resulting in a natural amount of outreach. When new brands come in, whether to me or a colleague, we give them a quick review to see if they are a conceptual fit for the fair, which they are more often than not. Occasionally, a new brand will stand out, for one reason or another, and they’ll get the seal of approval and an immediate request for a sample to review. Such was the case with Piccola & Joffrete. What stood out wasn’t the watch’s design, though it is altogether pleasant if conservative; rather, it was what appeared to be a high level of finish and a dedication to Swiss manufacturing. Many watches say Swiss-made on them, the definition of which I’ll elaborate on below, but few say 100% Swiss-made like the Piccola & Joffretes. Typically, those that are 100% Swiss (which is also hard to tell as transparency isn’t a strength of the watch world) cost significantly more, likely starting in the five figures. So, the final aspect that made Piccola & Joffrete (PJ) stand out was their relatively reasonable price point, Swissness considered, of 2500 CHF. There are several criteria a watch must mee...
Worn & Wound
When I attended the New York Windup Watch Fair for the first time, I was exposed to a multitude of brands and had my eyes opened to just how unique the watch industry could really be. Among the brands that I was introduced to, Xeric stood out due to their futuristic, space themed and outright eccentric designs. As I’ve followed Xeric, they’ve continued down this same path, which brings us to the Timeline Retrograde. With this new release, Xeric has set out to revive the double retrograde movement, making it relevant and affordable for modern collectors. To do this, Xeric has introduced the “Xeric Caliber X5.1” movement: to put it simply, this is a custom built module which stacks upon a Miyota 9015, a common movement in the microbrand community known for its reliability and affordability. This module gets you a retrograde display without the exorbitant costs associated with developing an entirely new movement from scratch. Additionally, since the foundation of this watch is a 9015, it should prove to be a reliable timepiece for years to come, but also be serviceable in case something happens. The standout feature of the Xeric Timeline Retrograde is, without a doubt, its retrograde time display. Unlike traditional analog dials where multiple hands simply rotate around the face, the two retrograde hands “sweep” across the dial in an arc and then jump back to the start. The hours are shown by a shorter hand that glides from 12 to 12, while the minutes are indica...
SJX Watches
Launched quietly last year as limited production runs of the standard model, the Tank Américaine “Art Deco” gives a striking new look to a familiar model that was first introduced in 1989. Though the Art Deco-style dial is mostly associated with the low-cost (and low-end) Tank Must de Cartier, it has been artfully applied to the Américaine with varying surface finishing and thoughtful details. The result is a Tank Américaine that looks radically different from the standard model, while being priced the same. Initial thoughts The Tank Américaine was conceived as a modern take on the Tank Cintrée, but because of its wider availability, numerous variants, and comparatively affordable pricing, the Américaine has become something of a poor cousin in the eyes of enthusiasts. The new variants of the Tank Américaine, however, are clearly trying to change that. They look and feel more upscale with the “Art Deco” dials that do away with the central seconds, which are long standard for automatic versions of the Tank Américaine. The yellow gold version Both are identical in dimensions. The case is a little wider and thicker than the Cintrée, so it’s not quite as elegant. And the 1899 MC movement inside is in-house but industrial and not as sophisticated as the manual-wind calibres (that are either Piaget or Jaeger-LeCoultre) in the Cintrée. But the Américaine “Art Deco” is more affordable, with the yellow gold version priced a little over US$16,000. The “Art...
WatchAdvice
I take the new Spirit of Big Bang collection for a spin to see just how striking these fresh colourways look in person. From bold Sky Blue to versatile Beige and understated Dark Green, each model brings its own unique personality to the wrist! What We Love The three new colours offer different aesthetics to suit a wider audience Sky blue and beige colours are stunning in person New collection offers undeniable wrist-presence, especially with skeletonised dial and colour matching chronograph counters What We Don’t Doesn’t provide a perfect fit for smaller wrists Case back construction can be improved for better “snug” fit. Dark green model’s dial blends in the with skeletonised movement, which hinders readability of time and counters. Overall Score: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Hublot has started the year off with a bang…quite literally. The brand is celebrating arguably their most iconic collection’s 20th anniversary this year, so we knew it was always going to be quite spectacular. Early last month, Hublot unveiled a host of new timepieces, one of which was the new SAXEM green “sapphire” Big Bang, a true masterclass of a timepiece with a blend of different materials to create a unique and eye-catching timepiece. Another release that I personally loved was the new Spirit of Big Bang collection. For those that my not know, the Spirit of Big Bang collection from Hublot was introduced in 2014 as a b...
Worn & Wound
I have a feeling that if you asked most watch enthusiasts to tell you their thoughts about Rado, they’d start with the Captain Cook. The brand’s diver has been revived in recent years and become an enthusiast favorite, appearing in both traditional vintage inspired designs as well as more forward thinking and tech oriented variants. I’ve handled my share of Captain Cooks and while I think it’s a perfectly fine dive watch, there’s something a little generic about it and it’s never quite grabbed my interest. It seems positioned as a calling card product for Rado, but I find myself wondering if it’s really the watch that we should most closely identify with the brand. Because the truth is, when it comes to Rado, they are far more adventurous than the Captain Cook would lead you to believe. And, for that matter, they’re more adventurous than we should have any right to expect given their fairly competitive price points and their place within a big luxury watch group, not typically the home of risk taking when it comes to watchmaking. Beginning with the DiaStar in the 1960s (which featured a case made from an ultra hard alloy that was among the first watches marketed as “unscratchable”) and on into the 1980s when the brand really began hitting their stride with ceramic, Rado has carved out a niche for itself as a brand willing to experiment with both raw materials and the form and function of a watch. There are many examples of this throughout the brand...
Worn & Wound
Sometimes we lose sight of the fact that our enthusiast romance associated with a mechanical movement can be another’s annoyance. Our beloved rituals of winding and setting, feeling the grinding clicks in your fingertips, and double-checking you’ve set it correctly can act as a barrier to entry for some, leaving a mechanical watch inside a dresser drawer. That is why I am a proponent of luxury brands exploring quartz calibers, particularly within their more popular collections. Removing that barrier and often lowering its price point means that the watch and the hobby as a whole can be accessed by more people, which is the ultimate goal, after all. All that being said, if a luxury brand is going to make a quartz watch and charge a luxury price, you have to make it a good one. Stepping off of my soap box, I’ll happily admit that when TAG Heuer released the Aquaracer with a solar quartz caliber inside, I too scoffed at the price and questioned its purpose. While the design language spoke to me with its warmly hued titanium construction and tasteful accents, I just didn’t understand why TAG Heuer would charge a price many multiples of what other solar quartz calibers commonly sell for. That was until I had the opportunity to have a period of hands-on time with it. I found myself enjoying its lightweight yet solid construction, the fun application of lume, and even became a bit enamored by the angular case lines, which had previously been a bit off-putting. So when I s...
Worn & Wound
Amidst the three and four-figure divers that dominate the market, Citizen has a reputation for being the everyman’s watch. Though the brand offers a variety of styles and price points, their dive watches tend to be one of the most popular options amongst their fan base. Launched in 1989, the Promaster series was developed with the goal of providing professional-grade, reliable watches for divers and outdoor enthusiasts. The first Promaster dive watch was equipped with advanced features like a high-water resistance rating, luminous hands for visibility underwater, and a rotating bezel to track elapsed time.These Promasters featured an arrow logo, symbolizing the watch’s ability to “go higher and deeper” than Citizen’s previous collections. This arrow is still included on the crown of modern Promaster references, tying these new releases into a longer history of one of the brand’s favored series. Citizen made waves in the summer of 2023 when they released a smaller version of their Eco-Drive divers. Those releases brought the Eco-Drive Promaster, traditionally sized 44mm, into the realm of the smaller-wristed by shaving off a whopping seven millimeters. These options came in three dial colors: gray, blue, and black, and all had a color-matched bezel. Three more colorways were debuted this past December, which included purple, blue, and red dial options. Along with the new colors, the brand made some aesthetic changes to these 37mm divers. Though the three color...
Worn & Wound
There’s no sports watch that I have a stronger connection to than the Zenith Defy. I’ve long told anyone who would listen that the Defy is, bar none, my favorite sports watch collection. From its inception, the Defy has been a watch associated with pushing both design and watchmaking boundaries, through the use of uncommon materials, avant-garde designs, and over-the-top specs. For whatever sports watch from a major Swiss brand you can name, I could probably think of a Defy that matches it in terms of what it can do, and eclipses it in terms of the always hard to quantify cool factor. Yes, of course this is subjective. But, I mean, is it really? Now that we’ve established that I love the Defy potentially all out of proportion, we can consider the latest entry in the growing collection, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. This is a combination of words that were always meant to meet in the form of a Defy – the writing has been on the wall since the intro of the first Defy Skyline, or least since the introduction of the Skyline Chronograph. One of the nice things about the Defy, as a collection, is that it truly offers a different flavor of the core watch for every taste, with dials that are skeletonized, or not, cases that are made from steel, or ceramic, and now chronographs offering some of those same decision points. My feelings on the Defy Skyline collection oscillate quite a bit. Whenever I put one on, I can’t help but compare it in my mind to the Defy...
Hodinkee
Move over white lacquer dial. I've got a new favorite Speedy.
Hodinkee
Known for his tattoo work, artist Mo Coppoletta has a new design role at an upstart brand.
Hodinkee
The second design of the series sees a splash of color in a limited edition of 150 pieces.
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to deny the outward appeal of a field watch. Tactical but not overly macho, mature but not boring-the traditional field watch “style” is eminently wearable for combatants, explorers, mountaineers, and the regular old civilian crowd. Classics like the Hamilton Khaki Field, Bulova A-11 “Hack”, Seiko Alpinist, Rolex Explorer, and many, many more, are icons of the category, and it’s hard to feel like there’s much more to be innovated or improved upon. The TUUL Filthy 13 is keenly aware of the history of the field watch. Its very name is a derivation of the “Dirty Dozen”-both the 1967 war movie about a squad of delinquent soldiers, and the twelve Swiss watchmakers commissioned to build a watch to help win World War II for the Allied forces in 1945. The Filthy 13 is a reference to Private Jake McNiece, the thirteenth member of the real-life military unit, left out of the film based on the squad’s feats-a cheeky signal of the Brooklyn-based company’s dedication to preserving the history and resilience of the field watch, while carving their own convention-breaking niche. I was given the opportunity to test out the Filthy 13, and was immediately drawn in by the well-laid out history and inspiration behind the watch. My first field watch was a Timex Weekender Indiglo given to me by my grandfather-a watch I still have and wear frequently-and I regularly pine after the Hamilton and Seiko 5 lineups. At first glance, the Filthy 13 is a well...
Hodinkee
Four years after the two brands' first collaboration, two of watchmaking's best designers get creative with an icon.
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