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SJX Podcast: Quest of Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin just unveiled Oct 1, 2025

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time

On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental La Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor’s first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand’s collection of dress watches. SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will be giving the keynote at Dubai Watch Week, a move that’s largely unprecedented for the industry’s most impenetrable brand. We also chat about the other big news in the world of watch fairs, Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders in 2026. Last but not least, we discuss what Girard-Perregaux’s new movement platform might reveal about the future of the brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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Lesser-Known Dive Watches With Heritage - Featuring Certina, Zenith, Aquastar, And More Fratello
Certina Zenith Aquastar Jun 28, 2025

Lesser-Known Dive Watches With Heritage - Featuring Certina, Zenith, Aquastar, And More

Dive watches are what got me into this hobby. As the proud owner of a Tudor Black Bay 58, I can appreciate as much as anyone the appeal of a good, solid dive watch. Such a timepiece is a good starting point for those just getting into the watch hobby. Why? Well, that’s because it […] Visit Lesser-Known Dive Watches With Heritage - Featuring Certina, Zenith, Aquastar, And More to read the full article.

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Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Jun 18, 2025

Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review

The GMT market has changed dramatically in the past seven years. I use that number specifically, because it takes us to 2018, when Tudor brought attainable traveller GMT (independent hour hand functionality) to market in a splashy way. Since then we have seen brands like Longines and Mido continue the work by delivering more options at even better price points. From a general “caller GMT” standpoint, Seiko has knocked it out of the park with models like those within the SSK range. We are living in a GMT moment with more options than ever. But if you took things back just one more year, to 2017, you could argue that it was the year Japan’s Grand Seiko made a mic-dropping value statement by way of the SBGM221, a traveller GMT in a dressier package with elite functionality while delivering value that far outpaces its price point. In 2025, that value proposition has not changed at all. Background:  The DNA of the SBGM221 looks back to the early roots of Grand Seiko in the 1960s to inform its design, but from a modern standpoint more directly can look to the SBGM021 released around 2010. That year is significant because it was the first year the brand arrived in the U.S. market. Aesthetically, the SBGM021 is an illustration of the older style of co-branded Seiko/Grand Seiko fare. Fast forward to 2017, and the watch reaches its completed form. But the 021, with its ivory dial, and general – and honestly quite original – GMT layout is established. You can see the direc...

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Explained: The Rolex Parachrom Hairspring SJX Watches
Patek Philippe turning Dec 20, 2024

Explained: The Rolex Parachrom Hairspring

Over the last decade, metal alloy hairsprings seem to fallen out of favour across watchmaking, with even conservative, haute horlogerie brands like Breguet and Patek Philippe turning to silicon balance springs. Not to mention large-scale makers of sporty watches like Omega and Tudor, which already transitioned to silicon balance springs. Rolex, however, stands out. The Geneva marque continues to employ a hairspring fabricated of its proprietary blue alloy – the Parachrom hairspring. The Parachrom hairspring inside the cal. 4131 of the Cosmograph Daytona The advantages of alloy The use of blue Parachrom is rooted in the simple fact that the right metal alloy boasts performance that is at least on par with its silicon counterpart – while offering some distinct advantages missing in silicon. Alloy hairsprings are traditionally made of Nivarox (and its family of related alloys), a special alloy that neither oxidises nor change its dimensions with variations in temperature. Invented in 1933 and almost a century old, Nivarox is a mix of nickel and iron, making it a ferromagnetic alloy, thus susceptible to influence from magnetic fields.  The cal. 3255 of the Day-Date 40 is equipped with a Parachrom hairspring. Image – Rolex In order to make its hairsprings more resistant to magnetism and to bypass the Swatch-imposed monopoly on Nivarox hairsprings (Nivarox-FAR being one of the key companies of Swatch Group), Rolex set out to develop its own hairspring alloy in the early 2...

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Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Sep 1, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 88 – An Unbelievable Collab, Pumpkin Spice Dials, and More!

On episode 88 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss takes you through several new and wild releases. Geneva Watch Days kicked off last week and with it, many cool things were announced. But that’s not all, as there were some surprise announcements too. There was a lot to cover from Armin Strom to Grand Seiko to Tudor. Check it out below. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, which has just added several awesome watches to its collection. From Hamilton, they’ve added the just released 33 and 38mm Khaki Field Quartz. Yes, 33mm just like the original Khaki fields. From Louis Erard is the new Metropolis Green, an art deco inspired collaboration with the Instagram famous @thehorophile. There’s also more from Casio, G-SHOCK, Laco, and others so head to windupwatchshop.com to check them out. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 88 – An Unbelievable Collab, Pumpkin Spice Dials, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Announced As A Non-Limited Edition Two Broke Watch Snobs
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Aug 22, 2024

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Announced As A Non-Limited Edition

Earlier this month, Longines debuted a new non-limited version of their popular Spirit Zulu Time in Titanium. Back when the brand partnered with Hodinkee for an exclusive limited edition, folks were a bit critical of the fact that the watch seemed strikingly similar to the Tudor Black Bay Pro, a point of criticism that didn't really concern me. It was a handsome watch, in my opinion but I wasn't a fan of the FOMO associated with the limited edition. Thankfully, if you were a fan of the idea behind the watch, you now have an option to pick up a model that arguably looks a little more refined - with features like a grade 5 titanium case and bracelet and a "true" GMT movement.

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Marathon Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Marathon Jul 10, 2024

Marathon Watches Guide

Many watch companies have a history of supplying timepieces for military units around the world, from Blancpain and Tudor’s dive watches for the French Navy to Hamilton’s field watches for World War II troops to IWC’s pilot watches for German and later British air forces. However, only one watch company has been an official supplier to the U.S. armed forces throughout nearly its entire existence, and it’s a company that many watch enthusiasts might be hearing about for the very first time: Marathon Watch Company. Read on for more background and a comprehensive rundown of the brand's collection. The Marathon Watch Company, one of the very few family-owned watch brands in existence and one of the even fewer based in Canada, traces its lineage all the way back to 1904. Its predecessor, the Weinstrum Watch Company, was founded by the Wein family, Russian immigrants who originally settled in New York City. (Another branch of the family changed their last name to “Wenger” and founded another Canadian watch business under that name, though it’s not to be confused with the better known Wenger company in Switzerland, today part of Victorinox.) In 1939, family scion Morris Wein carried on the family trade with the founding of Marathon, basing it not in New York but in Montreal, Canada, where the family had moved during the 1920s - not exactly a hotbed of watchmaking even at the time, but an ideal home base for the mission that the company began in 1941: supplying dep...

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Frederique Constant, And Breitling Fratello
Frederique Constant Jun 19, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Frederique Constant, And Breitling

No pre-owned shortcuts, just brand-new watches; that was my mantra when putting together my edition of The Best Watches Under €5,000. Rolex and Omega are out of reach, Tudor is on nearly every Fratello team member’s list, and the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT didn’t cut it either - it might be a chronometer, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Frederique Constant, And Breitling to read the full article.

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Holthinrichs, And Seiko Fratello
Holthinrichs Jun 17, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Holthinrichs, And Seiko

Every price segment has its king, and for watches under €5,000, it’s Tudor. Luckily, Thomas and Jorg already had their turns in this series, and both featured Tudor watches as their first picks. That’s good because now I can focus on other interesting stuff. Although the budget is quite comfortable, it’s certainly not an easy […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Holthinrichs, And Seiko to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Vs Apr 28, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. After two battles featuring Rolex and Tudor, it’s time to move on to something else. This week, we put two classic dress watches up against each other. Both came out at Watches and Wonders, and both impressed journalists and watch fans alike. Robert-Jan’s pick […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green to read the full article.

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Hands-On with the New Hublot Novelties at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Hublot Novelties Apr 22, 2024

Hands-On with the New Hublot Novelties at Watches & Wonders

Over the course of three years visiting Geneva with the Worn & Wound team, a handful of traditions have begun to take shape. We carve out a night for a team dinner at Jeck’s, a hole-in-the-wall Singaporean restaurant that we stumbled upon in year one, and is consistently the best meal of the entire trip. We cover Tudor first, every year. I am in the habit of buying a Swatch at the Geneva airport on my way home. And every year, I have a meeting with Hublot, and I write a breathless article about the weird and wonderful stuff I’m shown. It’s consistently the meeting that underscores the “Wonders” bit about the week more than any other.  When I first took on the task of writing about the new Hublot novelties at Watches & Wonders, it felt like a defense of sorts. Of the brand, the watches, and even our decision to cover them. I think, thankfully, we’ve all moved on a bit from a time when Hublot was just universally lambasted as a loud and unserious brand for loud and unserious people. They have never really been that in my opinion, but there was a time when the watches, if not really interrogated, could have given you that impression on a surface level. Hublot is covered differently now, and in recent years I’m glad to see them getting their flowers from a watch media that previously skipped them entirely or openly derided them.  There are a variety of reasons for that, but a key one has to be that Hublot has, perhaps, calmed down a bit at the entry point in th...

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Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Alpina Apr 14, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep.78 – Watches & Wonder 2024

This week’s episode of A Week in Watches is coming straight from Geneva! Yes, it’s episode 78, recorded at and during Watches & Wonders 2024, right on the floor of the Palexpo. Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan co-host, go over the watches and some of the wonders they experienced from brands such as Tudor, Grand Seiko, Rolex, and more. Be sure to stay tuned to the end for some outtakes! Episode 78 of A Week in Watches is brought to you by Windup Watch Fair San Francisco. In under 2 weeks, please join us for an incredible showcase of watchmaking and more at Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion on San Francisco’s Pier 2. This year’s fair is in a new venue that boasts two expansive floors that will set the stage for over 60 presenting brands, including Marathon, Nivada Grenchen, Zodiac, and more. In addition to the main event, there will be live podcast recordings, food trucks, bars, and special giveaways. We will also be holding live panels with our lead sponsors, Oris, Fortis, Christopher Ward, Alpina, and Anordain, as well as a sponsored photo walk with Camera West and a group bike ride sponsored by The Radavist. Things kick off on Friday, May 3, and wrap up on Sunday, May 5. Hours are 12PM – 6PM on Friday and Saturday, and 12PM – 5PM on Sunday. Windup Watch Fair The post A Week in Watches Ep.78 – Watches & Wonder 2024 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Dive Watches are Back in the Zenith Defy Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Collection Here’s Apr 13, 2024

Dive Watches are Back in the Zenith Defy Collection

Here’s a thing you may or may not know about Watches & Wonders: there are very few genuine surprises once we hit the Palexpo floor. Almost every brand (Rolex, Tudor, and Patek are the big holdouts) send press releases to media weeks before the show so coverage can be prepped. By the time we walk into a meeting with virtually any brand exhibiting, we already have the key information on their new novelties and are just looking for additional context, hands-on impressions, and an opportunity to get those all important photos. But sometimes brands hold back a release or two, and this will sometimes result in the kind of extremely welcome surprise I experienced when I visited Zenith early this week. One of my favorite brands has dive watches again.  We already told you about the Defy Skyline Chronograph, but in addition to that watch Zenith had an even bigger (literally and figuratively) Defy up their sleeve. The new Defy Extreme Diver represents the brand’s long awaited return to the dive watch category, and they’ve done it where you’d expect: within the highly technical and sometimes brazen Defy range. The new Extreme Diver has an imposing 42.5mm titanium case with the characteristic 12 sided bezel common to other Defys, and outside this fixed bezel we get a ceramic dive bezel. The case is rated to an extremely unnecessary 600 meters, which is the same depth as the original Defy diver, the A3648, from 1969.  The dial utilizes the star pattern that has become standar...

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Introducing The Very Limited Grand Seiko SBGW314 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Grand Seiko SBGW314 While I'm admittedly Apr 9, 2024

Introducing The Very Limited Grand Seiko SBGW314

While I'm admittedly more of the sporty mil-spec watch type, I know a beautiful watch when I see it. So far, today's new releases have been really strong over at the Tudor and Grand Seiko camps, and I think they've stolen the start of the show. One of these killer new releases is the Grand Seiko SBGW314, a limited edition watch that's meant to pay tribute to the early days of the brand while offering some modern touches. Of course, we get some of the design inspiration coming from nature. In this case, we're talking about a starry night sky.

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A Guide to Modern California Dials Worn & Wound
Panerai which has featured watches Feb 16, 2024

A Guide to Modern California Dials

The watch industry is rife with examples of watch brands turning to the past for new releases. The interest in vintage designs has led to some fun and unique long-forgotten or long-inaccessible designs finding a new audience. Consider the Timex World Time 1972 Reissue bringing some 70s funk to the 2020s. Or the Tudor Black Bay 54 giving Rolex Submariner fans the closest thing you can get to an original Sub without spending tens of thousands of dollars. And now, in the last few years watch brands have seen fit to revisit one of the most interesting and obscure vintage designs out there: the California dial. The California dial is the nickname given to watches that have Roman numerals on the upper half of the watch and Arabic on the lower half, typically with lines at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock spots and a triangle at the 12. This unique dial has a strong association with Panerai, which has featured watches with the dial in its catalog for some time now, but, like many developments in watchmaking, it was actually created by Rolex. Patented in 1942, the dial was originally known as the “error-proof” dial, designed to be more easily read because the different style numerals “clearly distinguishes these two halves” of the watch and “the Roman numerals chosen are those which are the simplest to perform and the easiest to read.” (Seems unnecessary, but it certainly wound up looking cool.) The modern PAM01349 The error-proof dial picked up the “California” moniker w...

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47 Best Watches Under $5,000 - A Complete Guide for 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 2, 2024

47 Best Watches Under $5,000 - A Complete Guide for 2025

We are back with another list of recommendations for the best watches you can get for a given amount of money. This time around, we will be looking at the best watches available for under $5,000, a crowded price point where the luxury watchmaking conversation really takes off. As we creep up on $5,000, we’ll be taking a look at luxury watch brands like Oris, Omega, Tudor, and a host of others, some of which may surprise you by their inclusion in this category. $5,000 is, objectively a lot of money, and we know you're looking for a lot of watch for your hard-earned coin. To aid you in your research, we have tried to include some popular, enthusiast-favorite watches as well as a few watches from brands you may be less familiar with. Before diving in, here are some ground rules: This list will be, by and large, strictly composed of watches with a retail price at or below $5,000. We'll also throw a few watches in at the end which retail for just a bit above $5,000 but can be found on the secondary market in our target price range. We’ve decided to further narrow our scope to watches with a starting price between $2,000 and $5,000. Again, we can’t possibly put every single watch in this price bracket on this list, but please feel free to refer to other guides on our sites, such as The Best Watches Under $1000, 30 Best Minimalist Watches and 25 Best Tool Watches, as they may have a watch or watches more to your taste, which is really what these lists are all about: to ...

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