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Quill & Pad
The Habring2 Jumping Second combines myriad details to make a very elegant watch with a utilitarian touch that is both practical and minimalistic. And as Martin Green notes here, a new strap can make a big difference.
SJX Watches
Young Canadian watchmaker Bradley Taylor has just made his debut with the Paragon. Having trained as a watchmaker in Switzerland, as well as gaining Patek Philippe and Hublot watchmaking certification, Mr Taylor’s eponymous brand grew out of his earlier venture, a two-man partnership similarly focused on a concise, well-executed watch. Very much a made-in-Canada wristwatch, the Paragon is a classical time-only that’s assembled and partially finished by Mr Taylor in his home workshop. Mr Taylor produces the hands himself, while most of the other components are produced by specialists in Switzerland, including Comblémine, the dial maker owned by Kari Voutilainen. But Mr Taylor has been careful to incorporate local details into the watch. Canadian graphic designer Ian Brignell was responsible for the Paragon’s Arabic numerals, and even the square-slot case back screws are Canadian in origin. The Paragon in purple and pale blue Initial thoughts There are times when it feels like the luxury-watch has become too successful for its own good – endless waitlists and steep price premiums for the hottest watches, as well as astronomical results at auction. At the same time, consumers often seem more concerned with resale value rather than the intrinsic value of craft. So it’s heartening to see the rise of niche independent watchmakers in the US$20,000-ish price range, such as Kikuchi Nakagawa, and now Bradley Taylor. Their work reminds me what watchmaking can be – the...
Deployant
For this week's article, we have set our sights on 6 watches that look simple, but are exceptional in their own little ways.
Time+Tide
The expression “luxury sports watch” is often hideously misused and exaggerated. But here the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph leaves you in no doubt. Serious swagger and hyper-fresh pops of green are the order of the day to bring a bright spark of sharp contemporary design into a world of vintage homage. First … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph brings green lasers to a gun fight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Martin Green doesn't usually like large-diameter watches, but he felt that the 44 mm Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono looked (and more importantly felt) profoundly better than he expected. Martin thought it large but not overly so, and that wearing comfort was exceptional for a watch this size. See for yourself right here!
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Deployant
Breguet celebrates the ladies watch with a special complication, a hand in the shape of an ever changing heart. We explain the Reine de Naples Cœur.
SJX Watches
Essentially a slimmed down and pared back version of its flagship watch, the Octo Finissimo has gained more fans than the first-generation model, thanks to a sleek profile along with newly-developed ultra-thin movements. Though the Octo Finissimo lineup is as wide as the watch is thin, the base model remains the most compelling, being an original take on the integrated-bracelet sports watch – a crowded and fashionable segment. Now Bulgari adds a brushed, silvered dial to the Octo Finissimo S, creating a tone-on-tone aesthetic defined by subtle contrasts in textures but looks surprisingly casual. Initial thoughts The just-released watch isn’t entirely new, so it has all the appeal of the earlier variants, most notably a slim, elegant profile on the wrist. But it does incorporate many incremental changes that set it apart from the original Octo Finissimo that was entirely matte titanium, before also being offered in sand-blasted steel, and finally in polished- and satin- finished steel. The original Octo Finissimo models in (from left) rose gold, steel, and titanium The brushed-silver dial on the newest variant, however, has given the watch a less formal style that is appealingly industrial with its expanse of brushed and polished steel. And the monochromatic palette is also unusual, distinguishing it from peers that tend to have darker dials that are almost always blue. Price-wise, the new dial costs US$100 over the earlier version, a modest hike that leaves the watc...
SJX Watches
Garrick is a newish independent watch brand based in Norfolk, England. Founded in 2014, it specialises in watches inspired by historical English watchmaking, exemplified by the S1, an elaborately-conceived, but pricey, timepiece. Now the brand has launched its most compelling buy to date, the Garrick S4. Like its earlier model, the S4 still possesses many elements drawn from English watches of yore, but is executed more simply. The S4 still boasts an unusual level of hand-finished details – including a barrel and crown wheel cover decorated with floral engraving and hand-finished bevelling – but is priced far more accessibly, with a retail price that starts under US$6,000 before taxes. Initial thoughts While independent-watchmaking startups are proliferating, most don’t diverge too far from each other; many focus on dial and case designs that are modern looking, think Ming and Sartory Billard. The Garrick S4 is unusual, particularly in two attributes that set it apart – traditional, pocket watch-inspired design and hand-finished details – which bring to mind an earlier generation of independent watchmakers like D. Dornblüth & Sohn. The most discernible feature of the S4 is the dial, which is unabashedly classical in style. But like the pocket watches that inspire it, the dial has depth, thanks to a multiple-part construction and varied surface finishes, including an engine-turned seconds register. Over on the back, the view is necessarily simpler than that ...
Quill & Pad
There’s a new double-faced superstar in town: the De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon. Co-founder and chief watchmaker Denis Flageollet wanted to create a watch with two distinct identities, incorporating two sets of brand “DNA” on the same watch. He also wanted to use the brand’s signature, patented floating lugs to their fullest extent. Elizabeth Doerr thinks Flageollet succeeded in his goals and explains why here.
Time+Tide
Any watch enthusiast whose tastes gravitate towards dive or tool watches will be familiar with the Seiko Prospex collection. It’s the bulletproof, no-nonsense collection that Seiko produce with the professional outdoors person in mind, hence the name Prospex – contracted from Professional Specifications. The Prospex line is now bolstered with the all-new Seiko SPB207, SLA047 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Inspired by a wilderness paradise come this trio of Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Since its inception in 2014, the Octo Finissimo was an absolute game changer for how the watch enthusiast community perceived the Bulgari brand. Sure the brand always enjoyed a successful niche, but the lineup of Octo Finissimo watches with their unbelievably slimline cases grabbed the attention of men and women who love watches all around … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium Black Dial bounces into town on a rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Octo Finissimo has become a real fan-favorite in the watch community and redefined expectations for the ultra-thin watch category. Many have expressed concern about the saturation of integrated stainless-steel sports watches, but the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, originally introduced in 2014 gave buyers the best of both worlds: an integrated bracelet sports watch, but with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered Dial is the Silver Surfer we never knew we wanted… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last year, the time-only Octo Finissimo watches received a major upgrade in the form of a screw-down crown and improved depth rating of 100 metres. They also received contrasting finishes to the highly faceted surfaces of the case and bracelet. This resulted in a greater play with light and a watch that became both more … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
GaryG ordered a Hasselblad X1D. He had never shot with a medium-format camera before, and the resolving power, color rendering, and ability to seemingly wrap light around a subject completely blew him away. So when Hasselblad announced that it would be offering a 120 mm macro lens for the X1D, he was among the very first to sign up. But did it make a difference in his watch photography?
Time+Tide
This might be exactly what we need to start 2021 with a BANG, and signal what we all hope is a strong year of growth for both the watch industry and consumer market in general. Auction results are a very important marker of the market temperature, and as WatchPro reminded us, this weekend sees the … ContinuedThe post Recommended Reading: Will yet another auction record be broken this weekend? The world’s most complicated wristwatch is up for grabs… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Deployant
The new Arceau Grande Lune features a wider case and a deep blue dial with a sunburst motif. First revealed in 1978 by designer Henri d’Origny, the round watch was reinterpreted by imagining a classic and singular curve.
Quill & Pad
For those of you who are regular readers of GaryG's “Behind the Lens” series, it’s no secret that he and his watch pals are big fans of independent watchmaking. Here Gary points his lens up close to a rare McGonigle Tuscar One Of Ten.
Time+Tide
DLC, or diamond-like carbon, is a great tool for watch manufacturers to leverage. It’s capable of not only changing the aesthetics, but also the durability of a timepiece. To get an idea of how tough DLC is, the material typically measures at 5000-9000HV on the Vickers hardness test. Essentially, this means that DLC is as … ContinuedThe post Watches By Material: Four super-tough watches that use DLC coatings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Sydney’s New Year fireworks were more symbolic than ever this year, hopefully distancing us from so many of 2020’s bleak memories including lockdown and Trump. And what about online shopping? Clicking is easy don’t get me wrong, but go through your watch drawer and do the maths: how many pieces have you actually bought online … ContinuedThe post As the doors open again, here are 3 watches you can only get in the Sydney Hublot boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution interviews Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei of URWERK, about the independent watch brand’s initial days and its evolution into their latest UR-220 models as it marks the brand’s turn towards slimmer watch profiles and lightweight materials.
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SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. launched the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph almost exactly a year ago with a launch edition of a 100 pieces that sold out quickly. I liked the watch when I first saw it in late 2019. Both its design and execution were done well, and the movement is special. Unlike many of its peers, the Streamliner is an original in a segment dominated by derivative watches. So when I was offered the chance to borrow the prototype for a few days – off the wrist of Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, who had been wearing it skiing – it was an easy yes. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of the 1970s and 1980s sports watches – but not the obvious ones like the Nautilus and Royal Oak – the Streamliner is one of the few integrated-bracelet sports watches that isn’t derivative, which is a feat in itself. The “Funky Blue” version has exactly the same design and movement, but with a new dial in a graduated, metallic blue that’s even more striking. I do, however, miss the vertically-brushed finish on the dial of the launch edition, which was uncommon amongst Moser watches. The subtle, radially-brushed finish of the Funky Blue dial Aesthetic aside, a key part of its appeal lies in the HMC 902 movement, a calibre developed by Geneva specialist Agenhor. Not only is the construction clever, it is also good looking, despite its modern aesthetics. Traditionally-styled chronograph movements like the L951.1 of the Datograph are usually the most attractive, but the HMC 902 is...
Deployant
The MB&F; HM9 undergoes its next iteration with the use of sapphire glass for a spectacular new watch - the Horological Machine No 9 Sapphire Vision.
Time+Tide
We’ve all been there. It’s inevitable as a watch collector. You see a new watch that’s been released and immediately fall in love with it. You can’t get it out of your head, until you finally give in, and track one down in the metal. But once you have it in your hands, you realise … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED: 5 Instagram shots that show the Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection is even better in the wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In the third quarter of its financial year – the three months to end-December 2020 – Richemont reported a modest recovery, with sales rising 5% over the same period a year before at constant exchange rates. This modest recovery was enough to moderate its results for the nine months to date, with revenue for the period down 14%, as compared to the drastic 38% plunge in sales for the first half of the year. Owners of over two dozen watch and jewellery brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai, the Swiss luxury conglomerate was buoyed by robust demand in Asia, its biggest regional market, as well as the Middle East and Africa. Combined, the two regions make up approximately half of Richemont’s global sales. The Asia Pacific enjoyed a 25% rise in sales, driven largely by exceptional demand in mainland China, where revenue rose an impressive 80% for the period, with sales in Taiwan also seeing a marked 29% increase – both consequence of a return to regular economic activity as the pandemic was brought under control, and the inability to travel and shop overseas. Paradoxically, the results in the Middle East were driven by a revival of tourist spending in Dubai as flights resumed, and domestic spending in Saudi Arabia where citizens cannot easily go abroad. This contributed towards a remarkable 27% increase in sales for the region. Elsewhere, sales too rose, albeit in smaller, single-digit increments. Bolstered by domestic demand, sales in the Americas rose by 3%. Jap...
SJX Watches
Highly regarded for its original and inventive watches that blend high tech and classical, De Bethune’s latest personifies the brand’s twin personalities – literally. Based on its signature DB28, the Kind of Two Tourbillon is De Bethune’s innovative take on the reversible watch. The trademark “floating” lugs of the DB28 have been reengineered to incorporate a compact pivot for the case, allowing it to swivel in either direction, creating a sleek, symmetrical double-sided watch unlike any other. Initial thoughts While the brand got its start with traditional, Breguet-inspired watches, its raison d’etre quickly evolved into pushing the boundaries of watchmaking – both technically and visually – typified by the Kind of Two Tourbillon. Reversible watches aren’t novel, having been around since the 1930s – the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was patented in 1931, and the most expensive watch ever is also double-faced – and are often classically styled. Most notably, Bovet has a diverse offering of highly-complicated, double-faced watches, but all executed in the Baroque style its favours. In contrast, the Kind of Two Tourbillon is clearly contemporary – and one of its face is definitely sci-fi – illustrating the technical prowess of De Bethune while expressing its avant-garde house style. The sci-fi face But because it is essentially a variant of the DB28, the Kind of Two Tourbillon will be actually wearable despite its mechanical complexity and ...
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