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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Timex jumps onto the Stranger Things’ 1980s bandwagon with new capsule collection Time+Tide
Timex jumps onto Jun 6, 2022

Timex jumps onto the Stranger Things’ 1980s bandwagon with new capsule collection

Given that nostalgia often feels like the dominant mode of inspiration for modern watchmaking – heritage reissue, anyone? – Timex’s collaboration with Stranger Things makes perfect sense. For anyone who grew up in the 1980s, the Netflix show is a retro bonanza. Set in 1983, the show focuses on a tight-knit group of kids in the … ContinuedThe post Timex jumps onto the Stranger Things’ 1980s bandwagon with new capsule collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar with Blue Dial Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Jun 6, 2022

Review: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar with Blue Dial

In 1992, the Master Control collection was introduced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, and along with it, the famed “1000 Hours Control” certification. This is the brand’s famed internal quality control standard, with a testing period that spans six weeks (or 1000 hours). While the Master Control line was first to be subjected to this rigorous standard, itRead More

MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style Time+Tide
Jun 6, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style

Eschewing the influence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Sparkling Burgundy,” Spurgles, Cold Duck From Detroit, Rene Pogel (Spell It Backwards), And Other Australian Oddities: If They Are Your Thing You’ll Never Regret It – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jun 4, 2022

“Sparkling Burgundy,” Spurgles, Cold Duck From Detroit, Rene Pogel (Spell It Backwards), And Other Australian Oddities: If They Are Your Thing You’ll Never Regret It – Reprise

Effervescent red wine in Australia was originally known as "sparkling Burgundy" and is often still affectionately referred to as “Spurgles” in accordance with the country's national need to shorten every name. Ken Gargett confesses that he is a fan and shares a few of his favorites here alongside the history of this fascinating sub-genre.

The revolutionary design of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the first true steel sports watch Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jun 3, 2022

The revolutionary design of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the first true steel sports watch

Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. This week, it’s the Audemars … ContinuedThe post The revolutionary design of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the first true steel sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 3, 2022

Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire

Having already designed its own El Primero limited edition, Phillips has collaborated with Zenith and Voutilainen to create the Calibre 135 Observatoire, a limited edition of 10 watches each powered by a cal. 135-O. The movement was the specially-regulated variant of Zenith’s flagship chronometer wristwatch movement of the mid-20th century, conceived solely to participate in observatory chronometer contests. As such, the movements were never cased and sold, until now. Contained in a platinum case, the movements were light decorated by Voutilainen, which also supplied the guilloche dial via its dial making subsidiary Comblemine. Initial thoughts The Calibre 135 Observatoire is a good looking watch. It’s evidently modelled on the vintage model and doesn’t change too much of the original design, but instead injects a few elegant details that give it more refinement, like the guilloche chapter ring. These discreet flourishes are enough to set it apart as a higher end watch than the vintage original, which are more of a functional precision chronometer. More broadly, it’s a three-way collaboration that reflects the strengths of the collaborators to different degrees. For Phillips, the Observatoire is a sensible collaboration since it chimes with its strength in selling both vintage and modern watches at the top end of the price spectrum. And it also a perfect base for the auctioneer to utilise the discerning eye of the gentlemen behind the project, namely Aurel Bacs a...

Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen Time+Tide
Zenith X Phillips X Kari Jun 2, 2022

Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen

Precision chronometry is the ultimate test of any manufacture’s mettle. To win and set records at Observatory competitions not only results in a highly coveted award for a manufacture, but also a highly coveted timepiece for collectors to acquire. Herein lies what makes the Zenith calibre 135-0 so legendary in the world of horology. From … ContinuedThe post Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The King Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition SJE087 Time+Tide
Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition Jun 2, 2022

HANDS-ON: The King Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition SJE087

The King Seiko era is an often overlooked piece of Seiko’s long and bountiful history, as this brand with so many achievements is never short of watches to be celebrated. But, as last year marked the 60th anniversary of the King Seiko range’s appearance, there’s been a push to honour it in the best way … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The King Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition SJE087 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 2, 2022

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver

Historically a prominent participant – and winner – at observatory chronometer trials, Longines once had a stable of extra-precise, high-frequency movements, though the calibres have been long discontinued as were the chronometer competitions. Several decades later the watchmaker from Saint Imier pays homage to that history by reviving the Ultra-Chron, which is based on its namesake 1968 original but with a newly-developed high-beat movement contained within vintage-inspired, cushion-shaped case matched with a similarly retro steel bracelet. Initial thoughts The vintage Ultra-Chron is a good basis for a remake as it avoids being yet another vintage-inspired diver with a round case. While the design isn’t new, the cushion case distinguishes it from the competition, offering enthusiasts something less common. Personally, I like the functional, 1970s style of the Ultra-Chron; the red accents lend the watch the feel of an instrument. But going by how Longines has expanded the palette of the Legend Diver, additional, modern colours for the Ultra-Chron are a possibility (and a certainty if it sells well). But the new Ultra-Chron is notable not just for its style. Though the Longines catalogue has an impressive tally of historical remakes, all of its Heritage models to date contain standard movements identical to those found in the brand’s other models. The Ultra-Chron, on the other hand, stands out for the high-beat calibre that was developed specially for it (though t...

Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made? Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet ? Jun 1, 2022

Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made?

What’s the biggest difference between Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet? For me, while both manufactures embody the best of traditional watchmaking, Audemars Piguet does a far better job of re-interpreting their tradition towards modern sensibilities and bringing their creations to a younger demographic. It’s the 50th anniversary of the AP Royal Oak this year, and … ContinuedThe post Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Ultra-Chron revives the first-ever hi-beat diver from 1968 Time+Tide
Longines Ultra-Chron revives Jun 1, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Longines Ultra-Chron revives the first-ever hi-beat diver from 1968

Heritage revivals are all the rage right now, and the manufacture that really kicked off the trend was Longines – the entire heritage collection range is devoted to digging into their rich archives and resurrecting their historic designs. From the Heritage Military to the BigEye Avigation Chrono to the Legend Diver (among others), their heritage … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Ultra-Chron revives the first-ever hi-beat diver from 1968 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

These are Patrick Dempsey’s three favourite TAG Heuer watches Time+Tide
TAG Heuer watches May 31, 2022

These are Patrick Dempsey’s three favourite TAG Heuer watches

This past week Andrew and Marcus found themselves in Monaco for the Formula One Grand Prix with TAG Heuer. During the festivities, Andrew had the chance to meet up with Grey’s Anatomy star, and TAG Heuer Ambassador, Patrick Dempsey. But before they could get into the subject at hand, Mr McUtchen had to settle a cheeky … ContinuedThe post These are Patrick Dempsey’s three favourite TAG Heuer watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rexhep Rexhepi Debuts the Chronomètre Contemporain II SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi May 31, 2022

Rexhep Rexhepi Debuts the Chronomètre Contemporain II

Having already been revealed as a one-off for Only Watch 2021 – that sold for a record CHF800,000 – the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII) has now made it into regular production, albeit as a limited edition. The standard RRCC II is identical to the example made for Only Watch, save for the dial. Inside is the RRCC02, an all-new calibre with twin going trains as well as an independently-driven deadbeat seconds with hacking and zero-reset functions. And the dial is a two-piece affair in fired enamel – black for the platinum model and translucent white for the gold. Initial thoughts With the first edition having become the signature watch of Akrivia, it’s no surprise that the RRCCII continues down the same road in terms of design. But the RRCCII is not just a facelift; it is an entirely new watch. The movement is a new construction in both layout and complications, while none of the case components are interchangeable between the two generations. At the same time, the movement decoration – the most easily observed quality of Akrivia watches – has been refined. It is impressively executed and even exaggerated in some respects. The bevelling on the bridges, for example, is remarkably broad for a relatively thin watch. The degree of technical advancement from the first to second editions is impressive and demonstrates Mr Rexhepi’s pursuit of progress despite his brand’s tremendous success. The RRCC02 is instantly recognisable as a new calibre...

VIDEO: These IWC and Top Gun pieces can be your wingmen anytime Time+Tide
IWC May 31, 2022

VIDEO: These IWC and Top Gun pieces can be your wingmen anytime

IWC’s longstanding fascination with aviation is well established, with the releases from this year’s Watches and Wonders continuing this high-flying heritage. Of the five new additions to the Pilot’s collection, our focus today falls on the Top Gun co-branded pieces – the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Top Gun and IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: These IWC and Top Gun pieces can be your wingmen anytime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OK, this might be the Tissot PRX you’ve been waiting for… Time+Tide
Tissot PRX you’ve been waiting May 29, 2022

OK, this might be the Tissot PRX you’ve been waiting for…

From online discussions to leaks, and most recently, our introducing post, we couldn’t wait to get our hands on the new Tissot PRX 35. We finally got the chance, and made the most of our time with these five gems. By this point, the PRX talk is probably coming out of your ears, so we’ll … ContinuedThe post OK, this might be the Tissot PRX you’ve been waiting for… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Top 100 Jewelers In America Teddy Baldassarre
May 27, 2022

Top 100 Jewelers In America

The United States of America is home to many fine jewelry and watch retailers, many of them family owned, nearly all of them the product of an inspiring story of American entrepreneurship and perseverance. Here we showcase our choices for the Top 100 Jewelers in America, with each state represented by at least one exceptional business, in alphabetical order by state. Along the way, we’ll name a few important watch brands carried at each retailer, and share some tidbits about their histories, awards and honors, and local charitable efforts in their communities.  Alabama Bromberg & Co. Being in business for more than 185 years has allowed Bromberg to establish a solid reputation in Alabama for selling jewelry timepieces, engagement rings, and gifts. In fact, it is the oldest business operating in the entire state. City: BirminghamStore Hours: Monday - Saturday 10:00 AM - 6:00 PMReputable Brands Sold: Rolex, TAG Heuer, Raymond Weil, Victorinox, & more Ware Jewelers This is a jewelry store that considers its customers to be friends, and it delivers service as if that were the case. Ware Jewelers was founded in 1946 and has strived to hold its strong reputation ever since. City: MontgomeryStore Hours: Monday - Saturday 10:00 AM - 6:00 PMReputable Brands Sold: OMEGA, TAG Heuer, David Yurman & more  Alaska Zhaveri Caribbean Gems Established in 1986, Zhaveri Caribbean Gems has been serving its local community for over 30 years. It is uniquely positioned in the busies...

Five great integrated-bracelet watches for under $10,000 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin released May 27, 2022

Five great integrated-bracelet watches for under $10,000

Watches with that integrated-bracelet appeal and 1970s aesthetic are all the rage right now. Recently Vacheron Constantin released its 222 to some acclaim, and Tissot’s smash hit, the PRX, both underlined what many had already noticed – people love the design and clear-cut lines of integrated bracelet watches.  Let’s face it: while most of would love … ContinuedThe post Five great integrated-bracelet watches for under $10,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Honey, I shrunk the PAM! Hands-on with the Panerai Quaranta collection Time+Tide
Panerai Quaranta collection From May 27, 2022

Honey, I shrunk the PAM! Hands-on with the Panerai Quaranta collection

From the 47mm Destros and Bronzos to the monstrous 60mm Egiziano, Panerai has never shied away from large diameters, nor should they, for that matter. The first watches Panerai made were modified pocket watches – the 1936 ref. 2533 measured in at 47mm. Today, however, is about the more wearable spectrum of Panerai’s catalogue. The … ContinuedThe post Honey, I shrunk the PAM! Hands-on with the Panerai Quaranta collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover Time+Tide
Breguet Blue makeover Tradition May 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover

Tradition is a buzzword in Swiss watchmaking as what we see manufactured today is typically the result of centuries of brand heritage. In the modern era, many novelties are created through age-old techniques, but with design codes and constructions that, perhaps, speak more to the sensibilities of today. Breguet, however, in their Tradition line really … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Régulateur Massena Lab SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces May 26, 2022

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Régulateur Massena Lab

Having made collaborations a habit, Louis Erard’s latest joint venture is with Massena Lab, an American brand that is equally adept at collaborations. Together the two have put together the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Massena Lab. In contrast to its recent abstract or Bauhaus collaborations, the Louis Erard’s new regulator is resolutely classical. It takes inspiration from the aesthetics of 18th century timepieces, which were all brass, steel, and frosted gilt, explaining the colours and granular dial finish. Initial thoughts Demonstrating Louis Erard’s versatility when it comes to collaborations, the Massena Lab regulator is basically a new dial style for the brand’s signature model yet it manages to look different enough that it’ll please someone who already owns a Louis Erard regulator. Although the grained dial is produced with industrial methods, it is a good approximation of a traditionally frosted dial and looks good on the wrist. Between the two I favour the gold-plated dial for its contrast, though the large case size means the rhodium version is appealing for its restrained palette. But because the new pair are essentially the standard regulator model at heart, they also has the dimensions of the standard model, which is bigger than would be ideal, especially in terms of thickness. At the same time, the two watches are priced in an accessible fashion typical for Louis Erard – just under US$3,900 in this case – making them well-priced propositions...